TTORA Forum banner

Need some FJ expert help (pricing)

3K views 21 replies 4 participants last post by  LilJohn 
#1 ·
I am looking into purchasing a old FJ40, and i'm not sure about costs and what i should be looking for. This is one i am interested in.

AD:

Parts car no motor. Still has turbo 350 trans w/Toy tcase. Was running last week.



I have been Emailing with this guy, or trying to email with this guy so i can go see it in person. He's not very informative about this FJ, so i was looking for advise on what i should be looking for.

I pretty much want to get a project, but not to big of a project.

Thanks for any help you can give.
 
See less See more
4
#3 ·
I wouldn't pay more than $2k... but it does look straight and clean. Check for rust. Also, it says no motor but the pics show one. Which is it? Be sure to check how it is mounted and the quality of the conversion.

Lastly, you say "Toy tcase". Be sure it is a lc tcase if the axle are stock.
 
#5 ·
LilJohn said:
I wouldn't pay more than $2k... but it does look straight and clean. Check for rust. Also, it says no motor but the pics show one. Which is it? Be sure to check how it is mounted and the quality of the conversion.

Lastly, you say "Toy tcase". Be sure it is a lc tcase if the axle are stock.
Ok, cool it is listed at $1,400 and was thinking about offering 1k if it looks good.

If it comes with no motor would that be a god price?

Thanks for the replay much appreciated!
 
#6 ·
I think in the $1k to 1500 range is fairly reasonable... especially if the body is as clean as it looks.

The big issues I see so far is the driver fender looks like it was fixed, the hood replaced, and no windshield. That instantly tells me it has been rolled. If it has the hard doors, I'd check out the driveside upper front edge.
 
#7 ·
LilJohn said:
I think in the $1k to 1500 range is fairly reasonable... especially if the body is as clean as it looks.

The big issues I see so far is the driver fender looks like it was fixed, the hood replaced, and no windshield. That instantly tells me it has been rolled. If it has the hard doors, I'd check out the driveside upper front edge.
Thanks alot for your insite. I am really very new to this. But really want to take a nice/good project to start with.
 
#8 ·
I am also now emailing with another person about this one. Tell me what you think of this one.

AD:

New paint, 2 sets of tires and wheels, ready for V8 conversion, has complete 5.7 throttle body injected motor, has transfer case, drive shafts, radiator, only need adapters and transmission

 
#9 ·
On either one, I'd be careful on knowing what year it is and planning your engine appropriately. In CA, the engine has to be the same year or newer. The first appears to be 75 or later so you might get stuck with smog. The second appears to be early 60s because of the corigated top ;)

I'd definately be leary of any V8 conversion that isn't quite there... especially if the motor mounts are already there.

The second one looks to be almost ready but again, you'd need a tranny and adapter(most new adapters are in the $500ish range depending upon what tranny you'd run). The first looks like it needs an engine. And the tranny might be in questionable condition.

Keep this in mind, the first may be 76 or later which means it has disk brakes in front. The second unless it has been converted does not... and if it is the older axle(ie pre 69), you basically have to replace the whole front axle to convert it to disk brakes in front.

The second one is a bit more desirable from a smog stand point as well as the new paint. But that new paint could be hiding something. I'd rate the second in the $2k-$3k range.
 
#10 ·
LilJohn said:
On either one, I'd be careful on knowing what year it is and planning your engine appropriately. In CA, the engine has to be the same year or newer. The first appears to be 75 or later so you might get stuck with smog. The second appears to be early 60s because of the corigated top ;)

I'd definately be leary of any V8 conversion that isn't quite there... especially if the motor mounts are already there.

The second one looks to be almost ready but again, you'd need a tranny and adapter(most new adapters are in the $500ish range depending upon what tranny you'd run). The first looks like it needs an engine. And the tranny might be in questionable condition.

Keep this in mind, the first may be 76 or later which means it has disk brakes in front. The second unless it has been converted does not... and if it is the older axle(ie pre 69), you basically have to replace the whole front axle to convert it to disk brakes in front.

The second one is a bit more desirable from a smog stand point as well as the new paint. But that new paint could be hiding something. I'd rate the second in the $2k-$3k range.

WoW. Great guess, the first one is a 78' Second one is 64' I am in CA so all that you said above would matter to me :)

2nd one: I come to find out it doesn't come with a engine and they have it priced at $2,500. So not sure if that effects your quote. :) I might actually go check the second one out this weekend.

Also, are there more disarable years to go for. I hear that 72-73 is a good year to have. What do you think? Also how can you tell between the different years, they all look pretty much the same to me lol.

Thank you for your expertise liljohn, very helpful!
 
#11 ·
Well, desirable years is a highly debatable topic. They all have "wanted" features:
Pre 75 they had rear lift up hatches. personally, I HATE the ambulance doors. They createa huge blind spot in the middle.
Pre 74(I think), they had the more desirable "three speed" transfer case. It was 2.3 low range as well as 10 spline which made SM465 and SM420 adaptation VERY easy as well as slim(1 inch plate as opposed to 4.5"+ adapter)
Post 76, they had disc brakes... but the knuckles were a bit on the weak side as well as hard to get high steer arms for
Post 78(I think), they started using the same knuckles and birfield joints as the mini trucks.
Post 79(I think), the hard top had a slider in the middle window.

Telling the difference between years is basically body features and disc brakes.

As I mentioned, the corigated hardtop in the second picture is a give away that it is early to mid 60s. Between that top and 75, they had a smooth sided lift hatch. 75 and later FJ40s had the ambulance doors.

I don't recall the exact year (73??) but they started using the two part parking/turn signals on the fenders (as you see in both pictures... but the second cruiser was retro fitted ;) ) Before then, they had the turn signal as part of the front bezzel.

I personally don't see my price on the second one changing by much. It is a VERY early cruiser and it has basically pretty new paint job. To me, those alone rate the $2k to $2.5k... the big assumption is there isn't any major body damage being hidden.

Between those two, I'm not sure which would be the "best". Depends upon what your goal is.

The 78 just needs an engine. It would be VERY easy to goto a junkyard and swap in a TBI engine while being smog legal. I've done one in the past and dealing with the ref was no issue. I could see it being up, running and on the road for under $1k beyond what you paid for it. You don't need an adapter since it has one... you don't need disk brakes since it has one.

The 64 is missing the engine, tranny, and an adapter. The front axle, if stock, is trash... especially if you want disk brakes. The rear axle is more than likely "trash" because it is probably the 10 spliner... but you can upgrade it to 30 spline fairly cheap. I could see spending upwards of $2k to $3k to get it into the same condition as the 78. However, you are smog exempt... but don't think that means you can just start pulling smog equipment, if caught, you can still get your ass in a sling.

If you give me an idea of what your eventual plans are(wheeling plans, drivetrain, etc), I can throw some more info your way to help you make an informed choice :)
 
#12 · (Edited)
LilJohn said:
Well, desirable years is a highly debatable topic. They all have "wanted" features:
Pre 75 they had rear lift up hatches. personally, I HATE the ambulance doors. They createa huge blind spot in the middle.
Pre 74(I think), they had the more desirable "three speed" transfer case. It was 2.3 low range as well as 10 spline which made SM465 and SM420 adaptation VERY easy as well as slim(1 inch plate as opposed to 4.5"+ adapter)
Post 76, they had disc brakes... but the knuckles were a bit on the weak side as well as hard to get high steer arms for
Post 78(I think), they started using the same knuckles and birfield joints as the mini trucks.
Post 79(I think), the hard top had a slider in the middle window.

Telling the difference between years is basically body features and disc brakes.

As I mentioned, the corigated hardtop in the second picture is a give away that it is early to mid 60s. Between that top and 75, they had a smooth sided lift hatch. 75 and later FJ40s had the ambulance doors.

I don't recall the exact year (73??) but they started using the two part parking/turn signals on the fenders (as you see in both pictures... but the second cruiser was retro fitted ;) ) Before then, they had the turn signal as part of the front bezzel.

I personally don't see my price on the second one changing by much. It is a VERY early cruiser and it has basically pretty new paint job. To me, those alone rate the $2k to $2.5k... the big assumption is there isn't any major body damage being hidden.

Between those two, I'm not sure which would be the "best". Depends upon what your goal is.

The 78 just needs an engine. It would be VERY easy to goto a junkyard and swap in a TBI engine while being smog legal. I've done one in the past and dealing with the ref was no issue. I could see it being up, running and on the road for under $1k beyond what you paid for it. You don't need an adapter since it has one... you don't need disk brakes since it has one.

The 64 is missing the engine, tranny, and an adapter. The front axle, if stock, is trash... especially if you want disk brakes. The rear axle is more than likely "trash" because it is probably the 10 spliner... but you can upgrade it to 30 spline fairly cheap. I could see spending upwards of $2k to $3k to get it into the same condition as the 78. However, you are smog exempt... but don't think that means you can just start pulling smog equipment, if caught, you can still get your ass in a sling.

If you give me an idea of what your eventual plans are(wheeling plans, drivetrain, etc), I can throw some more info your way to help you make an informed choice :)

Man Great information!!! I am going to look at the second one tomorrow, and will be able to use a lot of the information you gave me to work right away. :) I have more questions to ask, and some more stuff to look for.....thank you.

Not ready to buy just yet. Pretty much want to get the feet wet.

I would like to get a chance to look at the first one (green one) at some point, i like the way that one looks. But the guy doesn't communicate well. Emails are really really short. So we will see.

As for what i am looking for, being as i don't know to much about being a mechanic or about FJ40's in this case. I pretty much want a not so hard project that i can learn to build it up. For leasure driving, and probably some 4X4'n ;) I would also like it to look nice.

Would be great for it to look like this some day.

Love the look of this one! :)


Again much apprciated!!!!
 
#13 ·
From the info provided, I'd lean toward the 78. It also gives you the opportunity to pick what the final color will be ;) Red may not be your thing and I'd sure feel bad about "wrecking" a good paint job that you'd end up paying extra for if you persued the 64 :)

I'd say this because your claim about not being a mechanic which I'm taking to mean you don't want to get into any type of fab work ;)

With the 78, the engine mounts appear to be in it ready to go. So it would basically be a bolt in affair with minor amount of wiring for the engine. (although, there are a set of bolt on motor mounts available for the FJ40... just a bit of frame drilling)

It isn't clear whether your inclination is for an automatic or a manual tranny. I prefer manuals... others prefer autos... and some of us get forced to a tranny based upon the engine ;)

The last picture appears to be the "standard" cruiser build up: spring over, power steering, and 35s. Been there, done that ;) Not too big of a deal to accomplish with either of the platforms you are looking at.
 
#14 ·
LilJohn said:
From the info provided, I'd lean toward the 78. It also gives you the opportunity to pick what the final color will be ;) Red may not be your thing and I'd sure feel bad about "wrecking" a good paint job that you'd end up paying extra for if you persued the 64 :)

I'd say this because your claim about not being a mechanic which I'm taking to mean you don't want to get into any type of fab work ;)

With the 78, the engine mounts appear to be in it ready to go. So it would basically be a bolt in affair with minor amount of wiring for the engine. (although, there are a set of bolt on motor mounts available for the FJ40... just a bit of frame drilling)

It isn't clear whether your inclination is for an automatic or a manual tranny. I prefer manuals... others prefer autos... and some of us get forced to a tranny based upon the engine ;)

The last picture appears to be the "standard" cruiser build up: spring over, power steering, and 35s. Been there, done that ;) Not too big of a deal to accomplish with either of the platforms you are looking at.
Hey Liljohn,

So i went to check out the 64 FJ40 today. Let me tell you i was pretty impressed. So much stuff we talked about, the guy was super nice. He has done a few FJ40's already, but has not time do work on this one and the wife wants him to get rid of it. He spent $3k for it last year, expecting to take it on and build up another. Just didnt get around to it. He's a older guy thats retired already, and had many vehicals in the driveway. He has a prestine 62 ford fairlane. Sooooo nice!

Anyway, we chatted for like atleast a hour, says he has a couple other guys that checked it out and are interested. The deal with this one from what i saw. Look really clean, no rust from what i saw. Comes with a engine which a came to find out. The engine is a 5.7 vortex V8 i think. I took a picture of it. Has 64k miles on it. He says he has pretty much all the parts for it. He says all i would have to do is get a Transmission. It doesn't have the mounts so would have to do all that, then pick a exhaust. Says the wiring is good. So he told me it would be a project, I would have to find a :welder: comes with a extra set of tires. Just looked pretty nice.

After seeing this in person i am very very interested. I pretty sure i know what i am getting into, so hopefully it won't be to big of a project. So i told him i would call him back soon. So i have some time to think about it. :)

Here are some pics i took. Sorry about the blury engine pics, thought they came out better.



Let me know what the expert thinks ;) but i am pretty interested. First one i have seen too hehe. Also Red wouldn't of been my first choice but i could live with it.
 
#15 ·
Well, just from what I've noticed:
1) It is missing the fender aprons.. not sure if they just weren't mounted. Those are the parts that hold up the hood about 3 inches tall.
2) It has the stock steering... not sure if there is a bushing still around to make converting it to PS easy. But I'd still recommend scout steering over regular saginaw.
3) Not a real good picture of whether it has disk brakes but given that it has no power for the brakes and a singel resevoir, I'd bet it is drum all the way around. Which, as mentioned above, the front end is trash. The rear is more than likely 10 spline. But fairly easy to convert.
4) It definately doesn't have the V8 motor mounts done... but those are fairly easy to do if you go with the bolt on style (I'll see if I can dig them up... they require no welding... they use stock Chevy motor bushings... but they are a little more expensive than Advance Adapter's mounts)
5) The only thing I can say for sure is the motor is setup for an automatic. The picture leds me to believe it is a TBI style engine and not one of the Vortec. Mainly becuase of the throttle body as well as the ECM on the engine. Those are VERY easy to swap.

It would be a fair amount of work to get it "nice" driving... lots of bolt on type stuff that can be done. But also a fair amount of welding... and I can tell you that unless you have friends who weld, it can add up in a hurry.

I don't consider myself an expert but I'd see it taking quite a bit of time also... especially if you are not familiar with some of the cruiser things or engine wiring/setup.

I'm still of the opinion the other one would be a better deal and on the road quicker because less work needs to be done.
 
#16 ·
And just to throw some numbers around for you ;)
1) DB conversion: $500ish depending upon whether you get a cruiser DB front end or find someone giving away a "newer" drum axle housing and buying a mini truck DB front end to convert... roughly one weekend's worth of work.
2) PS conversion: roughly $200-$300... scout box, ream arm for LC tie rod end, new tie rod, bushing for column, and ujoint(s) for box to column. Scout boxes run around $80 for a used one.
3) Bolt on motor mounts: $250(haven't priced these recently... I used a prototype version that was $125 but I'd heard the price went up with lots of enhancements) But they are 100% worth using over any of the weld on ones out there. The dounut style mounts crush and cost around $50 to replace.
4) Tcase mount: ~$140 plus you need to weld brackets to the frame. I have yet to see a bolt on version.
5) Engine electrical should be free if the harness is good. I would not hesitate to rework a TBI harness(lol, I have an extensive post on Pirate4x4 detailing this) I actually prefer reworking a stock harness to buying a pain-in-the-ass harness. Most aftermarket harnesses require you to replace some if not all sensors and may have stuff omitted. (I did 88 Camaro TBI and the painless harness was a POS)
6) Tranny... if you go automatic, you need to buy one plus an adapter ($500ish) If you go manual, you need to buy a fly wheel, clutch, etc as well as an adapter which can be as cheap as $200.
7) Exhaust manifolds. I wouldn't touch a set of headers. Go straight for "ram horn" manifolds... they are approx $250.
8) Exhaust... could be VERY expesnive. $250 is what I spent on mine about 6 years ago for a plain single exhaust.
 
#17 ·
LilJohn said:
Well, just from what I've noticed:
1) It is missing the fender aprons.. not sure if they just weren't mounted. Those are the parts that hold up the hood about 3 inches tall.
2) It has the stock steering... not sure if there is a bushing still around to make converting it to PS easy. But I'd still recommend scout steering over regular saginaw.
3) Not a real good picture of whether it has disk brakes but given that it has no power for the brakes and a singel resevoir, I'd bet it is drum all the way around. Which, as mentioned above, the front end is trash. The rear is more than likely 10 spline. But fairly easy to convert.
4) It definately doesn't have the V8 motor mounts done... but those are fairly easy to do if you go with the bolt on style (I'll see if I can dig them up... they require no welding... they use stock Chevy motor bushings... but they are a little more expensive than Advance Adapter's mounts)
5) The only thing I can say for sure is the motor is setup for an automatic. The picture leds me to believe it is a TBI style engine and not one of the Vortec. Mainly becuase of the throttle body as well as the ECM on the engine. Those are VERY easy to swap.

It would be a fair amount of work to get it "nice" driving... lots of bolt on type stuff that can be done. But also a fair amount of welding... and I can tell you that unless you have friends who weld, it can add up in a hurry.

I don't consider myself an expert but I'd see it taking quite a bit of time also... especially if you are not familiar with some of the cruiser things or engine wiring/setup.

I'm still of the opinion the other one would be a better deal and on the road quicker because less work needs to be done.
Thanks! for all the information.....agian! your helping me out a whole lot!

I would like to check the other one out but, the guy hasn't giving me his number or address to go check it out. So that one might not happen. I was thinking about going to this place my co-worker mentioned. It's in North Hollywood i think. He said they carry all types of FJ40's. From big project to ones that are fully restored. So might check that out next week sometime.
 
#18 ·
LilJohn said:
And just to throw some numbers around for you ;)
1) DB conversion: $500ish depending upon whether you get a cruiser DB front end or find someone giving away a "newer" drum axle housing and buying a mini truck DB front end to convert... roughly one weekend's worth of work.
2) PS conversion: roughly $200-$300... scout box, ream arm for LC tie rod end, new tie rod, bushing for column, and ujoint(s) for box to column. Scout boxes run around $80 for a used one.
3) Bolt on motor mounts: $250(haven't priced these recently... I used a prototype version that was $125 but I'd heard the price went up with lots of enhancements) But they are 100% worth using over any of the weld on ones out there. The dounut style mounts crush and cost around $50 to replace.
4) Tcase mount: ~$140 plus you need to weld brackets to the frame. I have yet to see a bolt on version.
5) Engine electrical should be free if the harness is good. I would not hesitate to rework a TBI harness(lol, I have an extensive post on Pirate4x4 detailing this) I actually prefer reworking a stock harness to buying a pain-in-the-ass harness. Most aftermarket harnesses require you to replace some if not all sensors and may have stuff omitted. (I did 88 Camaro TBI and the painless harness was a POS)
6) Tranny... if you go automatic, you need to buy one plus an adapter ($500ish) If you go manual, you need to buy a fly wheel, clutch, etc as well as an adapter which can be as cheap as $200.
7) Exhaust manifolds. I wouldn't touch a set of headers. Go straight for "ram horn" manifolds... they are approx $250.
8) Exhaust... could be VERY expesnive. $250 is what I spent on mine about 6 years ago for a plain single exhaust.
Well looks like it would take a few bucks to get it up and running. :( I want a project. I know i would be up for something taking a while to get looking nice. But it would sure be nice to have it running, while i work on other stuff for it.

The guy did express to me that it would be a pretty big project, but not too hard to get going. Just have to have the time to put into it.

I guess there is a lot more looking to do.
 
#20 ·
LilJohn said:
My estimated work is what I'd do as a minimum to make it have nicer street maners.

You could knock off disk brakes and PS but the rest is pretty much needed.
Also i would have to have a Mechanic help me out on some of that stuff. So probably a little more money to your estimate. :) Well i am still interested in it. But probably will go look at some more when i get a chance. If you want i can update you with the stuff I look at and you can give some more of your expertise. :)

Thanks! :)
 
#21 · (Edited)
Just read all of these posts', good info Lil'John

I would offer a few insights

That is likely Jonathan at TLC in Van Nuys you are thinking about, good person to talk to and he has a ton of OEM parts too.

My first choice has to go to the green one, the '78. I agree that about $1000 would get it on the road and it already has disk brakes and fine spline axles.

On the other I disagree about the final cost estimates because I think Disk Brakes are required for any Cruiser spending any time on the road. If you don't, lookout for the first time someone locks up their brakes in ftont of you. The OEM drums were fine when everyone had drums, now that everyone has disks they are downright dangerous in perfect condition, and whose are in perfect condition?

Otherwise, I agree completely, just don't ignore the brakes.

BTW, I have 2 '73's
 
#22 ·
Gravel Maker said:
On the other I disagree about the final cost estimates because I think Disk Brakes are required for any Cruiser spending any time on the road. If you don't, lookout for the first time someone locks up their brakes in ftont of you. The OEM drums were fine when everyone had drums, now that everyone has disks they are downright dangerous in perfect condition, and whose are in perfect condition?
I had four wheel drums when I got my 75... when I was on top of keeping them adjusted, they stopped on a dime. The minute you let them get out of adjustment, it got scary. It would pull to the side, etc. "Older" FJ40 drums were NOT self adjusting(not sure about 76+ FJ40s). You have to use a "screwdriver" to adjust them. I kept those for about 18 months while running around CSUS :)

I also ran front disc (83 mini truck knuckles out) and rear drum. As long as the rear were reasonably adjusted, it still would brake pretty well.

I lastly ran four wheel disc (added standard chevy RDB "kit") and it took a bit of effort to get the brakes dialed in.... I ran into bias issues as well as getting the right master cylinder. Portioning valve was required as well as an older drum master brake cylinder. Once I got it dialed in, it would lock up 35s :eek:

The other thing worth noting on "brakes" is the parking brake. Keep it adjusted and clean. On mine, It would hold back a V8 with SM465 in granny low ;)
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top