: Does this slider design look like it will hold up?


NorcalPR
04-05-2006, 11:40 PM
Hey guys. Enclosed are some plans that I drew up on AutoCad. The method of attachment is Dick's Method, so I am not worried about how it attaches at all. I am moreover worried about the actual thickness and size of the tubing than anything.

I'd use round tubing and bend it, but I don't have a bender, nor do I feel like buying one just for this project. I have benders at work, but nothing capable of bending 1/4" thick material easily.

The reason I am doing square is simplicity, and acts as a good step for the Girl. Shes 5' tall and complains the truck is a bithc to get into. So I'm looking for a slider and a step. This is why it bumps up from under the cab (like a round tube)

The 1.75" I feel will be fine, it will be 1/4" thick. The 1" is more of what I am worried about. I'm pretty sure I can get it 1/4" thick. The metal I will be using is 8500 Grade B, or a A36. I was told by my brother who does structial engineering that this is a very strong metal that is easy to weld.

I was also wondering if the spacers should somewhat match up so that there is less stress on the material.

On the plans, the white is the frame and the cab (The cab will be with the 1" body lift installed). The bar going through the frame is where it will bolt on. The red is the sliders and the brracket. The other picture, where the lines are yellow, is looking form the top down.

I can add a couple gussets here and there, if needbe. The 1.75's going into the bracket will definately have more gusseting.

So do you guys think the 1" will hold up? I'd do much bigger but the angle that the rectangle needs to be and such, the angle that I cut it at will be a retangle that measures 1.75X1" square.

Thanks guys!
-Philly

Brain
04-06-2006, 12:10 AM
I like the design but I don't know about those 1" tubes. If I were to make sliders in that style, I'd probably use 1.75" and notch the tubes so instead of sitting on the part of the slider that faces the truck, the 1.75" tubes now rest on the bottom part and the part that faces towards the truck. Basically you notch the supports to a 90* angle so you weld onto 2 faces of the outside of the slider. Wow that was really hard to put into words LOL

NorcalPR
04-06-2006, 12:24 AM
I was actually going to do that. Basically, cutting out triangles on opposing sides so it rests on the corner. I like it better because more surface area to prevent twisting. Only problem is, it interferes with the cab.

Only way to alleviate it is to bring the inner bar out from the trame more, but it is not under the pinch weld. Would that be a wise choice?

-Phill

TacomaHarry
04-06-2006, 02:48 AM
I had these built for me, from scratch. :saw: :welder: They are very strong. I've landed on them and they didn't even move.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y270/jepemanfl1/th_CBinstall00111.jpg (http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y270/jepemanfl1/CBinstall00111.jpg)
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y270/jepemanfl1/th_CBinstall00110.jpg (http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y270/jepemanfl1/CBinstall00110.jpg)
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y270/jepemanfl1/th_CBinstall0019.jpg (http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y270/jepemanfl1/CBinstall0019.jpg)
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y270/jepemanfl1/th_CBinstall0018.jpg (http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y270/jepemanfl1/CBinstall0018.jpg)
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y270/jepemanfl1/th_CBinstall0017.jpg (http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y270/jepemanfl1/CBinstall0017.jpg)
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y270/jepemanfl1/th_CBinstall0016.jpg (http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y270/jepemanfl1/CBinstall0016.jpg)

WallyP226
04-06-2006, 05:39 AM
.250 wall square tubing with gussets on the top of each frame plate out towards the slider will be very sturdy and trouble free for many years.

IMO you could use 1/8 inch X 1.75 inch wall square tubing as a spacer, if your worried about strength put a 4th of 5th spacer in and evenly space them, that would spread the load better anyways. My sliders are made entirely out of 1/8 inch with the exception of the frame mount, where I went with 3/8s inch. They also weigh in at 112lbs and I used essentially the same design, less the frame bracket design.

Dick made his sliders and brackets out of stainless, you doubled the wall thickness AND went with square wall tubing.

Wally

NorcalPR
04-06-2006, 07:53 AM
I had these built for me, from scratch. They are very strong. I've landed on them and they didn't even move.

Again, I would use tound tubing, but I do not have the tooling to bend it.

rokbrkr
04-06-2006, 08:26 AM
Again, I would use tound tubing, but I do not have the tooling to bend it.

We bend tubing and send it out all the time for the do it yourself folks, we just charge materials plus $6 a bend.
One thing I would be worried about is the three stand offs to the frame, we have sold dozens and dozens of sets of sliders and only had one bend in 5 years, and that was one of the first sets that I only put 3 stand offs on (thinking, oh 3 will be enough!), it's my personal opinion that an ext. cab truck needs at least 4, and for really hardcore use I like to put 5 in there.
If you do go with the square tubing, I wouldn't use anything over .188 wall, anymore than that and you're just adding unwanted wieght to the truck, oh and stay away from that 1" tube, not only will it not hold up, but I think it will look a little odd as well, maybe use 2" for the main pieces and 1 3/4" for the fill in, or 1 3/4" and 1 1/2", if your set on using two different sizes. :2cents:

RedRunnertc
04-06-2006, 09:16 AM
Check out 4Crawler's sliders - he uses 2" square tubing. The "normal" version is .120" wall, the heavy-duty is 0.188" wall. The diagonal pieces then come out to 1.5".

I would highly suggest that you design them so the "inside" rail is as close to the pinchweld as possible. That way when they flex, they don't move much before the weight is transferred into the body mounts.

NorcalPR
04-06-2006, 10:21 AM
We bend tubing and send it out all the time for the do it yourself folks, we just charge materials plus $6 a bend.

Thank you for the offer, but shipping would be a overkill, and not to mention time.

One thing I would be worried about is the three stand offs to the frame, we have sold dozens and dozens of sets of sliders and only had one bend in 5 years, and that was one of the first sets that I only put 3 stand offs on (thinking, oh 3 will be enough!), it's my personal opinion that an ext. cab truck needs at least 4, and for really hardcore use I like to put 5 in there.

This is based off of Dick's design, which has been on his truck for years. The middle and rear brackets are wrapped around the frame like a U, and the front bolts intop the frame, and bends down into the tranny crossmember, much like:
|
\ (But less of a angle to bolt into the crossmember)

If you do go with the square tubing, I wouldn't use anything over .188 wall, anymore than that and you're just adding unwanted wieght to the truck, oh and stay away from that 1" tube, not only will it not hold up, but I think it will look a little odd as well, maybe use 2" for the main pieces and 1 3/4" for the fill in, or 1 3/4" and 1 1/2", if your set on using two different sizes. :2cents:

Thanks you. I thought all sliders were made out of .25 material. I will do .188 tubing. I was going to use 2", but it will not allow me to bolt into the frame like I want to. It would have to hang down lower.

I have come up with a new design, taking into all your guys considerations. The new design will be the same from the top down (except the spacers will be 1.75 wide, not 1"). The two bars that run the legnth of the truck will be the same hieght and everything, and the standoffs will be the same legnth. The new design just incorporated Brian's theory on the spacers. I like it much better, and will be doing this.

Took me a while to find out how to do it, but I feel it is worth it. More surface to twist the bars, instead of just one side.

So let the critiquing begin. One theory I was having is having a spacer where the standoff is to better transfer the load, and then centering the spacers off of that. Would this be better than having the spacers evenly spaced like I have them?

-Phill

Dick Foster
04-06-2006, 11:24 AM
I suggest you add maybe two more spacers between the inner and outer tubes.

NorcalPR
04-06-2006, 03:38 PM
I'll add one more to make 7 total. Thanks Dick.

Any other improvements?

Paul
04-06-2006, 03:49 PM
We bend tubing and send it out all the time for the do it yourself folks, we just charge materials plus $6 a bend.

Off topic, but would you do that for a front bumper too? I have access to a bender but I dont know how to bend and don't feel like wasting tube.

amatoer10
04-06-2006, 04:02 PM
new plans look better. i would definatly add more spacers between the outer and inner tubes. on my sliders and all the ex cab ones that i've built, i used 5 legs, with 5 spacers lined up with each leg on each slider. and fyi, even without any body lift, you have just barely over 2 inches from the bottom of the frame to the bottom of the pinch weld. this is 2" square tubing that i used for the legs. they meet at the very bottom of the frame, and they just clear the pinch weld. of course with heavy use though they do make their own notch into the pinch weld :saw:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a284/amatoer10/P1010057.jpg
________
RD350 (http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Yamaha_RD350)

Dick Foster
04-06-2006, 04:18 PM
No no no I am talking about the spacers between the inner and outer tubes. You now have three per side not counting the ends. I want you to add two more per side for a total five of those little spacer pieces between the two tubes. My outer tube bent after a while and I only used three spacers between the tubes.

NorcalPR
04-06-2006, 05:42 PM
Ah, thats good to know.

5 it is. Thanks a million dick.

Also, I got pricing today. 40' of 1.75" tubing .120 thick is 140 bucks. Trail-Gear makes the sliders fabbed up already with the legs welded off, but they are included for 145 bucks. If my buddy can't get a good deal on it (he get sa good deal form welding class at my college) I'm just going to buy the trail gear, and use Dicks method of mounting them.

-Philly

RedRunnertc
04-06-2006, 09:07 PM
you have just barely over 2 inches from the bottom of the frame to the bottom of the pinch weld. this is 2" square tubing that i used for the legs. they meet at the very bottom of the frame, and they just clear the pinch weld.

This is how mine fit too. Makes it look very nice as everything is real flush.

of course with heavy use though they do make their own notch into the pinch weld

That is why you need a flat, solid piece centered under the pinch weld. You need to run your spacers to the side of the inside rail, not the top as you have it drawn. This will create pressure points, not a smooth distribution of the load into the pinch weld. (and IMHO that's what rock sliders are supposed to do - distribute the load uniformly)

Great CAD work BTW.

RedRunnertc
04-06-2006, 09:09 PM
Who are you going to have fab these?

'cuz that mitred notch is going to be a SOB to get right - plasma cutter is about the only way

NorcalPR
04-06-2006, 11:40 PM
I was going to fab these. I was just going to use a Big band saw I have at work.

Hopefully my buddy can get the price down to about 100 bucks or so. If he can I will make them, if not I'll use Trail-Gear's sliders, with Dicks design on the mount for the frame.

-Phill

Jfab
04-07-2006, 07:12 AM
.
Also, I got pricing today. 40' of 1.75" tubing .120 thick is 140 bucks.

-Philly
:eek: :eek: Wow! I just looked this morning when I got to work and a 20' stick of 1-3/4 x 1-3/4 x .120 is $48.80 at my supplier

WallyP226
04-07-2006, 07:33 AM
Ah, thats good to know.

5 it is. Thanks a million dick.

Also, I got pricing today. 40' of 1.75" tubing .120 thick is 140 bucks. Trail-Gear makes the sliders fabbed up already with the legs welded off, but they are included for 145 bucks. If my buddy can't get a good deal on it (he get sa good deal form welding class at my college) I'm just going to buy the trail gear, and use Dicks method of mounting them.

-Philly

I don't know how far you have looked, but the price seems a bit steep on the steel. I think I paid about 40 bucks a stick a couple of years ago. Is this a wholesale place or is it one of those metal by the foot places?

See if you can find a wholesaler that will deal with small/ or part time guys like you and me that may require a 25-50$ minimum requirement of purchase.

Anyways, it might save you a buck or two to let your fingers do the walking in the yellow/ white pages.

Wally

NorcalPR
04-07-2006, 08:13 AM
They do large orders, there is no minumum. I'll try harder.

-Philly

NorcalPR
04-19-2006, 11:41 PM
Update!

I ditched the square design and opted for some round tube sliders. Props to Anthony (Davis3000) for bending the pipe and nothcing it with me.

All the spacers had a notch on one side. I had to make a template, and copy it to the other side. Then I cut it out with a bandsaw, which then I grinded it with a angle grinder to get it to fit nice to the pipe. To do the template and all the notching, took 3 hours.

I tack welded the inner piece and left all the spacers free. All I have to do is bring up the Cad, measure out the distance on the spacers and tack weld those. I can then fully weld the sliders :)

Then I can drill the brackets that I ahve bent up and tack that to the legs. I can then tack the legs to the sliders and finish welding. Then Rattle can will do the rest of the job.

It turns out that the 1" body will not be nesecary since I cant weld the legs higher up on the frame (Bolts will be in the way). I will not install the 1" body lift with these sliders.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/sliderplans/CIMG0542.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/sliderplans/CIMG0541.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/sliderplans/CIMG0543.jpg

AggieTaco
04-20-2006, 08:30 AM
Doesn't look like it offers much of a step for the lady

Dick Foster
04-20-2006, 08:50 AM
Lookin good. I'm wondering about the 1" BL though. Got any pics of the frame attacments?

Dick Foster
04-20-2006, 08:51 AM
These ain't no damn sissyfied nerf bars, these be rock sliders. LOL

NorcalPR
04-20-2006, 10:12 AM
It's enough step for my gf. It's much better than her sticking her leg in my cab and me practally having to pick her up to put her in the cab. I've actually had to do that a couple times when she was tired.

Dick, it's going to attach with your design. I had my brothers company bend up the brackets. It's 1/4" cold steel.

I may work on the other part of the notching today if I have time. If not, tomorrow I will, and I will also drill the brackets and weld those up. I'd work on it Sunday, but it's prom.

Sunday I will be working on them more for sure. Expect more pics, hehe. I'll take a shot of the clearance, but it clears just fine. The inner tube just has to be sticking out more form the pinch weld. It's offset .875" (The edge of the bar is with the edge of the pinch weld)

Dick, I think your design had 79" or so for the legnth. I originally was going to do 81, but the bender put it at 84" OD. This is the perfect legnth.

Kaistie
04-20-2006, 10:42 AM
Here are mine, .250 wall 2"x2". They are stong as hell. I have come dowm on them full force from about 12" and is shook the shit out of me, but no bending.

http://community.webshots.com/myphotos?action=showPhoto&albumID=545583956&photoID=1545617201048043617&security=yWxsCP

I think your idea is good, but ditch the cad dwg's. I myself used to do a lot of CAD work, mainly with DATACad and used to draw things to death. I soon realized that there is no substitue for just going out there and cutting. I think it is a good idea to have a plan so you don't waste material, but just start cutting and welding, you will proably end up changing your mind before it's all said and done. Good luck!

Dick Foster
04-20-2006, 10:46 AM
Then you shouldn't need a body lift because mine doesn't have one. The length was so as not to crowd the sheetmetal and I think it had to do with the cut schedule for the standard length stock I was using.
I'm a cheap bastard that way. Sometimes I'll spend an hour just planning all the cuts for a sheet of plywood so as to leave nothing but sawdust and usable pieces.

RedRunnertc
04-20-2006, 12:36 PM
They look awful tight to the body. Do they stick out far enough to protect the widest part of the truck?

Dick Foster
04-20-2006, 12:50 PM
They aren't attached as yet. Those are just pics of a work in progress.

NorcalPR
04-20-2006, 12:58 PM
They are going to stick out that far. Maybe the angle will be further out, but they do protect the widest part of the truck. The inner edge is basically where the widest part it. That gives me 1.9" of protection.

I like the CAD drawings because it gives me a general idea. Then I would tweak it and then tweak the drawings. It helps out a lot when you have dimensions for everything. I just hate building projects without it down on paper first. Plus I use AutoCAD at work, sO I can work pretty quick with it. It helps so much figuring out the bends. All me and Anthony did was use the DIST function o find the inner dimention to tnhe end of the arc, then used the formula to find the legnth of the arc. All we did was measure and put that ark on the center of the bender. Only problem is, I drew it up for a 4.5" radius. His was a 6" radius. That is why it came out 84 instead of 81.

Dick, have the brackets held up well? I know that you only had 2 spacers whay why I have 5 now, but did the 3 legs going to the frame work out?

Thanks for the support. Def. more pics comming your way.

Also, I got the piping form Keenan Supply in Oakland. It is Imported 1.5" black pipe. It's 1.6 ID, 1.9 OD. 1.70 per foot because I bought it through work, so no taxes. Still a damn good deal for anyone out there.

Philly

Dick Foster
04-20-2006, 01:12 PM
Yep the brakets are holding up just fine. The only problem I've encounted is the already addressed lack of spacers.

I have had some thoughts on another idea that has yet to be implemented and maybe worth your consideration. That is to take a length of angle stock and weld it to the bottom of the tubes, maybe even both of them. That would stiffen them up and is were most of the wear happens. Kinda like a hybrid of round and square tubes. It might even make them slide better while providing more lateral stability i.e. less likely to slip off of a rock sideways. That would be determined by the particular type of rocks you happen to be into at the time. While they would probably not add much in AZ or Johnson Valley where sharp, jagged rocks prevail, it might have some value in areas like the water tooled rocks of the Rubicon and the sandstone slick rock of Moab.

You might want to consder adding some side hoops for the extended cab since you're already at it. I added mine later on and they have been doing their job pretty well. The hoops on each side are scratched and scared to hell and back which goes to prove their worth.

NorcalPR
04-20-2006, 01:24 PM
Well, I have a prerunner. I doubt I'll be doing any hardcore wheeling. I just want to protect the cab from wheeling since it's my DD, and provide somewhat of a step for the little lady.

Philly

Dick Foster
04-20-2006, 01:38 PM
In that case, leave it be. Maybe you can even sell them a 4X4 owner someday. Which by the way is yet another option more open to you since you went the bolt-on route. See how smart you are, always planning ahead. LOL

NorcalPR
04-20-2006, 02:58 PM
Haha. I wanted bolt on route so I can touch them up if I ever need to, and there's less street on the frame because I'm adding no heat to it.

NorcalPR
04-20-2006, 11:22 PM
Got the bolts today, and paint. I got some slip resistant maint and rustoleum professional enamel.

4 grade 5/8 grade 8 bolts and 2 9/16 grade 8 bolts and ewashers and nuts, plus wirewheelds came to 30 bucks

TBob
04-21-2006, 07:39 AM
it's my personal opinion that an ext. cab truck needs at least 4, and for really hardcore use I like to put 5 in there.

Ditto -

NorcalPR
04-24-2006, 09:24 PM
Update:

Pops welded up the inner bar to the hoop on the sliders for me. The gap was about 1/2" on the side closest to the truck, and still had about 3/8" in the front. Top and bottom were matched. He filled them in and you can't even tell. SWEET! Inner spacers still loose till I get the legs tacked.

Brackets are drilled. Dicks design uses a rectangular piece of flat bar that is tapped. I found that by grinding the corners of a bolt for a unistrut, and then drilling this and tapping it to a 9/16", it works much better because it is thick.

So tomorrow I will bolt on the U brackets, and tack those up (It is a | and a L) and then Wednesday after work I can weld those up. Then legs get tacked to those, then the sliders get tacked, then spacers tacked, then everyhting welded. WEEEEEE

I also found some grip for the top that you guys may want to look into. You know the cement stairs that have grip on the end on them? Well, I found a spray at OSH that is that grip. In short terms, it is a weak version of girp tape that is very rubbery. I sprayed it on sheet metal and it didn't pull any of my leg hairs or scratch my girlfriends legs, I bent the sheet metal and it didn't flake at all, and I stepped on it wet and it still gripped so good. More info when painted on the sliders.

-Philly

firemandave
04-24-2006, 09:49 PM
I want to see these things when they're done. If they look good i may have you help me make my own. I want to get rid of my stupid deezy steps.

Dick Foster
04-25-2006, 09:08 AM
The unistrut should work OK. Almost anything will do becasuse there is no load on those spinner nuts with the truck is on the slider. Those only serve to hold the sliders on while running down the road with no load on them. The only applied stress is from gravity and the weight of the slider assy itself.

NorcalPR
04-25-2006, 09:37 AM
Right. I just wanted the thickness that the unistrut nut provides because I don't want it bending in the frame.

Dick, did you put any loc-tite on any bolts?

Dick Foster
04-25-2006, 10:08 AM
Nope, I just used lock washers. If you use Locktight I suggest the blue stuff so you can them off easily.

NorcalPR
04-25-2006, 12:40 PM
Ah. I think I'll use nail polish on the front ones (weak version of loc-tite) and use blue on the mid and rear bolts.

Also, on the front bracket, the bracket does not lay flat against the corssmember. Did you just use washers where you bolted it through the stock hole?

-Philly

Dick Foster
04-25-2006, 12:47 PM
Yes, I used washers. Remember that when the slider is loaded this bolt is under tension mostly. Be sure to use grade 8.

NorcalPR
04-25-2006, 05:52 PM
Yep, grade 8 bolts all the way round. The bolts through the frame are fine thread to allow me to tighten it pretty good.

Dick Foster
04-25-2006, 05:56 PM
Fine thread really isn't necessary. The real forces are applied to the frame rails by the U brackets.

NorcalPR
04-30-2006, 05:52 PM
Well, I got the sliders all done at about 8pm last night, and I jacked up the truck. Didn't budge at all, sturdy as fuck and look AWESOME.

But I rolled the truck last night. Someone stripped it at my friends ranch but the sliders are still on there.

Still debating whether I should keep them and put them on my next yota, or sell them.

Brain
04-30-2006, 06:01 PM
Wait a second, you just finished the sliders and now your truck is toast? Shit man, sorry to hear about that :(

Make sure you get a 4wd next time around :)

Dick Foster
04-30-2006, 06:46 PM
Well that sucks big time. Sorry to hear that.

NorcalPR
04-30-2006, 06:52 PM
Found a green limited 4x4 for 9600 bucks, its a 98.

Once the insurance gets sorted through I will probably buy it. I will call.

Pictures soon....

NorcalPR
04-30-2006, 06:54 PM
Oh, also, me and my girlfriend were in the truck at the time. We are both ok, with no scratches or bruises, and no one was around at the time.

firemandave
04-30-2006, 07:13 PM
that stinks bro. but hey the truck your lookin at sounds like mine. we'll have matching trucks lol. Atleast your smart this time and getting a 4x4. haha
When you do your lift and stuff and if you need help let me know.

Brain
04-30-2006, 07:45 PM
I'm assuming you found this one, right? It's not a Limited, looks like an SR5 to me. Limiteds have chrome power mirrors and sunroofs (at least my truck and PaulW's truck have that setup) :) Might be an incentive to get him down on the price :D

http://www.craigslist.org/eby/car/155873817.html

Edit: I guess he does say it's an SR5 :D But it can't be both

Big-A
04-30-2006, 08:08 PM
Well, I got the sliders all done at about 8pm last night, and I jacked up the truck. Didn't budge at all, sturdy as fuck and look AWESOME.

But I rolled the truck last night. Someone stripped it at my friends ranch but the sliders are still on there.

Still debating whether I should keep them and put them on my next yota, or sell them.

dude....wtf did you doooooo? I guess we will be making some more sliders if you dont take the ones we just made off your rig! That sucks man....glad to hear your both okay!

NorcalPR
04-30-2006, 10:32 PM
dude....wtf did you doooooo? I guess we will be making some more sliders if you dont take the ones we just made off your rig! That sucks man....glad to hear your both okay!

I'm going tomorrow to yank them off the truck, dont worry. I put too much work into those damn things.

Oh, I talked to the pops, and he said it's allright if you need me to order that pipe for you.



Brian, It actaully is that truck, and point well taken. Owell, Don't need a Limited anyways, but it'd be nice.

-Philly

Brain
04-30-2006, 10:37 PM
dude....wtf did you doooooo? I guess we will be making some more sliders if you dont take the ones we just made off your rig! That sucks man....glad to hear your both okay!

What do you need more pipe for?????

Big-A
05-01-2006, 06:45 AM
I am going to make a new rear bumper with a winch incorporated into it.....hopefully :)

Dick Foster
05-01-2006, 09:35 AM
What for, you don't wheel out side of Hollister? LOL

Dick Foster
05-01-2006, 09:36 AM
If you're gonna put them on a 4X4 next it might be a good idea to go ahead and do some of the other things like ex cab hoops etc.

NorcalPR
05-01-2006, 10:01 AM
Yeah, we'll see.

I can't do much till I get the new truck. Hopefully I get some good dough form the insurance company. I will get a 4X4 though. Manual tranny or auto doesn't matter, but it has to be a V6...

-Philly

Big-A
05-01-2006, 04:50 PM
Oh, I talked to the pops, and he said it's allright if you need me to order that pipe for you.

-Philly

good deal man thanks....I will need some in a month or so!

Big-A
05-01-2006, 04:54 PM
What for, you don't wheel out side of Hollister? LOL


I want to winch peoples cars at the mall who park too close to me out of the damn way,damn those fuckers.

I will be on the Rubicon this summer,and I will spank soup bowl without a winch :D

Dick Foster
05-01-2006, 04:57 PM
LOL OK then, I guess we will have to wait and see.

NorcalPR
05-01-2006, 11:54 PM
Unbolted the sliders today. Turns out the fender got smashed down and dented the front fender. The sliders didn't budge.

Pictures when I get them (At my friends house, he had a truck to transport them)

-Philly

Also, good news on the truck. Found the rims yesterday night. Turns out the fawker went back to try to retrive them, and took another trail back and got stuck. He put a stolen truck in a ditch. Inside were my lug nuts and a wrench used to take them off (A lug nut is wedged inside the wrench). We're getting real close to this guy. Stereo stuff and gauges still gone.

Insurance adjuster tomorrow or day after

NorcalPR
05-07-2006, 02:31 PM
Hey guys. Here's pictures of the sliders fabbed up (and on the totaled truck). Prop's to Dick for a really good design. Only flexed 1/16" picking up the truck. Some things I had to do to get these to fit:

Take off a plastic flip holding fuel lines on the driver side middle bracket
Bend the pinch weld on the gas tank down to get clearance to install the bolt

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/rolled/CIMG0717.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/rolled/CIMG0718.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/rolled/CIMG0719.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/rolled/CIMG07072.jpg

Big-A
05-07-2006, 02:38 PM
Hey guys. Here's pictures of the sliders fabbed up (and on the totaled truck). Prop's to Dick for a really good design. Only flexed 1/16" picking up the truck. Some things I had to do to get these to fit:

Take off a plastic flip holding fuel lines on the driver side middle bracket
Bend the pinch weld on the gas tank down to get clearance to install the bolt

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/rolled/CIMG0717.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/rolled/CIMG0718.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/rolled/CIMG0719.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/rolled/CIMG07072.jpg


:eek:

NorcalPR
05-07-2006, 02:44 PM
I'll post pics of the truck in the off-topic section in just a sec

NorcalPR
05-07-2006, 02:56 PM
Thread for the truck

http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?p=405927#post405927

Dick Foster
05-08-2006, 01:10 AM
Good job!!! On the sliders that is, not the truck. LOL

NorcalPR
05-08-2006, 08:10 AM
Thanks, they get painted this week. Hopefully that paint that is the rubberized stuff with sand in it works. I'll post my findings on that.

Dick Foster
05-08-2006, 12:22 PM
I wouldn't use that stuff if I were you. Now that you're getting a 4X4 you will probably actually start to use them for what they are designed to do, i.e. grind and pound on rocks. You might want to consider adding the hoops now as long as you have them off. On second thought, bolt them up to the new truck first so you can reference the body. Tack the hoops in place, remove the sliders and finish weld then give it a good rattle can paint job. You can put the rubberized stuff in the step area after the paint has cured. If you wind up using the things, you'll have to touch up the paint every year or so and that rubber stuff would be really shit to try to sand and paint. Use plan old Rustoleum or something like that and touch up will be a lot easier.

CadetLee
05-10-2006, 01:17 PM
How much did it cost you for materials? I just checked a local fabrication/welding shop, and it's really expensive ($450 for a length of 2" .25 wall stainless; they didn't price .125)...they also don't have equipment to bend 2" that tightly (the corner radius), so I'd have to go elsewhere anyway.

NorcalPR
05-10-2006, 01:37 PM
I just used 1.5" Schedule 40 pipe. Its .144 thick and has a 1.9" OD. I got it through work at 80 bucks for 42 feet. (2 21' sticks)

Brain
05-10-2006, 02:22 PM
I just used 1.5" Schedule 40 pipe. Its .144 thick and has a 1.9" OD. I got it through work at 80 bucks for 42 feet. (2 21' sticks)


Ya that's about how much my sliders ended up costing :) Where do you work at?

CadetLee
05-10-2006, 07:35 PM
I just used 1.5" Schedule 40 pipe. Its .144 thick and has a 1.9" OD. I got it through work at 80 bucks for 42 feet. (2 21' sticks)

Thanks - I'll price that...should be a lot more affordable.

NorcalPR
05-10-2006, 07:49 PM
HVAC construction with my pops.

CadetLee, I would try a plumbing warehouse instead of OSH or home Depot. Try a local Ferguson...

-Philly

CadetLee
05-10-2006, 08:50 PM
HVAC construction with my pops.

CadetLee, I would try a plumbing warehouse instead of OSH or home Depot. Try a local Ferguson...

-Philly

No Fergusons up here -- good friend of mine is a plumber, so I'll see if he can check for me. My last price was through a local welder/fab shop.

NorcalPR
05-10-2006, 09:20 PM
Tehre we go. He should be able to get it pretty cheap (about 2 dollars per foot)

NorcalPR
07-02-2006, 12:26 PM
Just got the sliders back form the powdercoater on Friday. My friends dad did them cheap, so I said ey, what the heck...

For grip, I highly recomend doing what I did and use a can form OSH that I got. It's called: Rust-Oleum Professional Anti-Slip Textured Coating. It has a picture of some steps that a Construction worker is walking on. This stuff looks great, and really does it's job well. I would compare this to about 400grit sandpaper. The beauty of it, is it's sprayed on, it's pretty damn durable, and it's grippy enough to step on when wet with barefeet, but it doesn't pull your leg hairs. It doesn't peel like griptape either. You can easily touch it up too.

The sliders were done flat black. The Anti-Slip paint i flat black and is a perfect match. So perfect in fact, it looks as if I have applied a thin clear strip of griptape. From a far distance, you don't see it, but getting in the truck, you can clearly see the strip.

I made sure the powdercoater did not spray inside the brackets, because if he did there would be no way in hell that I could get these on. I just shot some flat black paint inside those, painted the heads of my bolts and slipped it in.

A couple members requested plans. I will do those today now that I have time. Don't worry, you aren't forgotton :)

Allright, I'll shut up for now, here are the shots on the new truck. Lift to come soon!!!

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/101_0652.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/101_0651.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/101_0650.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/101_0649.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/NorCalPR/101_0648.jpg

-Philly

NorcalPR
07-05-2006, 10:31 PM
BTW, if anyone wants to use that texture coating, I hardly used any. If anyone wants there's done and they're inthe Bay Area, they're more than welcome to swing by to get some shots sprayed on.