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04-21-2006, 02:04 PM
Went to look at my cylinders today cos i popped the head off in the dark the other night and this is what i found:
http://img429.imageshack.us/img429/3081/picture0167mi.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img429.imageshack.us/img429/5449/picture0176xn.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img439.imageshack.us/img439/6765/picture0189cs.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/510/picture0195xe.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/736/picture2xc.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
They're in order from 1 to 4. 3 was the coolant leak and i don't know what happened at 2. Can you guys tell me if i can run it like this. I need to know if i can get a couple thousand miles if i put the head back on. I would think, but the surface rust on the walls or 2 has me worried.

Iggy
04-21-2006, 02:14 PM
its a yota u kan get another 20k miles out of it min

usmcracing
04-21-2006, 03:01 PM
The sucks,

Just bite the bullet and I go with a full rebuild.

There is a wrecked 2wd 4cyl. Taco at the U Pull it here in Jax. The only charge $140 for a engine and a small core fee, around $40. They also have a 1gen Runner there with a 22RE that didn't look to bad.

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04-21-2006, 03:20 PM
i need to get this truck to orlando cos i'm moving. i guess i'll just rent on of those uhaul things and ask my stepdad to borrow his 05 250.

Neil426
04-21-2006, 03:34 PM
Clean it up. Use a hone on #2.

#1 lots of carbon sludge. Was the motor smoking before the head gasket? If it was this is why. #1 & #4 look to have oil control problems ( bad oil Ring).

#2 was running lean.

Check your plugs to see if #2 has white soot on it.

I would say that puttong it back together while not the best thing to do would be ok since you only need it to go for a little while.

I had a 22r that sat in the woods for 6 years under tarp with no plugs in it and I simply dropped it in the 85 and ran it for 2 years. No problems.

these motors are bullet proof in stock form.

Willy Mammoth
04-21-2006, 04:03 PM
A little rust isn't going to be a problem especialy if it already uses oil. If ther are signs of the head gasket was leaking then just put a new gasket on it and bide your time. Start working on finding a replacement or think about a 3RZ swap.

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04-21-2006, 04:13 PM
relief. i thought that #2 was suffering blowby or whatever my motorcycle machanic friend calls it. how do i richen just one cylinder? do i need to rebuild or clean the injector?

how do i clean off the engine block as prep for the head gasket? gasket scraper? I have so many questions! I wish i had a dad growing up :mad:

Neil426
04-21-2006, 04:40 PM
relief. i thought that #2 was suffering blowby or whatever my motorcycle machanic friend calls it. how do i richen just one cylinder? do i need to rebuild or clean the injector?

how do i clean off the engine block as prep for the head gasket? gasket scraper? I have so many questions! I wish i had a dad growing up :mad:
most likely it was suffering from blowby. Most motors do after 100,000 miles.
Lightly scrape the gasket off then use a solvent gasket remover and brilo pad on it to clean it. Knowing you it will be spotless. For reinstalling, you want to look into some copper coat and your new gasket. Follow the service manual.

Willy Mammoth
04-21-2006, 04:51 PM
Just be carful not to nick the aluminum head.
You could also put the pistons down a bit and use a sanding block with 180 to clean it up. Make sure the block goes across the cyls and not round any corners.

Put rags inside the cyls to keep the grit out from between the piston and cyl.

What did you do with the timing chain tensioner. Is there something keeping it from poping out? Or does this happen with Toyota's. It is a problem with Nissan's.

Not so sure on the copper coat, That could cause the gaskit to slip out. I always put them together dry with a little silacone at any seams.

91toyota4x4
04-21-2006, 06:22 PM
ryan are you moving to orlando for just the summer or for good?

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04-21-2006, 06:55 PM
Willy, do you mean take the pistons out to sand them? i would for a rebuild, but i hope i don't need to right now. I'm in want someone would call a time crunch.

Ryan, yes, i am moving for good. I will be here for the summer working and stuff, but my classes in Otown start fall. I'm a UF dropout (kinda). I want to be mechanical as i'm probably better suited for that anyway.

Neil and Willy, thanks for the help

Willy Mammoth
04-21-2006, 07:02 PM
Willy, do you mean take the pistons out to sand them? i would for a rebuild, but i hope i don't need to right now. I'm in want someone would call a time crunch.

Ryan, yes, i am moving for good. I will be here for the summer working and stuff, but my classes in Otown start fall. I'm a UF dropout (kinda). I want to be mechanical as i'm probably better suited for that anyway.

Neil and Willy, thanks for the help

NO :eek: just turn the crank so all are down some. That wav you can get a rag in the cyls to keep junk from getting in between the pistons and cyl wall and scoring the walls.

I have used a vacuum to clean the cyls out before. You could even give that a try.

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04-21-2006, 08:46 PM
oh, ok... i just reread that post and i now conclude that i'm a dummy. i thought that you meant put the pistons down a bit as in taking them down w/ a sander. Sorry. i'll probably use all of the above

thx man