Speakers setup for Xtra Cab

[salliemon]

Looking for a solution for rear speakers in a '95 Xtra, 4X4. I bought my truck used some years back and the previous owner had already modified the rear panels to hold a pair of 6x9's. Basically they mounted some 6x9's on pieces of wood carpeted grey to match the interior carpet, then they basically screwed them directly into the rear panels covering the fatory opening/space behind the panel. I would like to put some better speakers and find a better way to mount, the weight of the speakers causes a lot of rattle in the rear.
Anyone got any ideas?
What have some of you done to customize your sound?
Thanks in advance,
Sal

[drinkintedbr]

I would just suggest something simple for you. Like all new door speakers and an 8" or 10" subwoofer.You would probably be fine with a single amped bazooka tube as far as subs go. Dont go overboard with the prices though. Just go to a stereo shop and listen to a bunch of stuff and figure out what best fits your tastes. Also, when you get ready to buy something, shop around alot, and see if you can get a great deal on the stuff. Buying car stereo stuff is alot like buying a car (they mark stuff alot).

[mudferret]

Anyone got any ideas?
What have some of you done to customize your sound?
Thanks in advance,
Sal

Did they completely hack up the original mounts? If you want to stuff some better sounding speakers back where they should be, there are some really great sounding 5x7" speakers out there. I went with Rockford HPC-2257's, essentially thier second best 5x7" speaker from 2002. I was blown away by the sound quality. While you're at it stick some dynamat behind the speaker, that sheet metal likes to rattle.

[04RedLobster]

I would just suggest something simple for you. Like all new door speakers and an 8" or 10" subwoofer.You would probably be fine with a single amped bazooka tube as far as subs go. Dont go overboard with the prices though. Just go to a stereo shop and listen to a bunch of stuff and figure out what best fits your tastes. Also, when you get ready to buy something, shop around alot, and see if you can get a great deal on the stuff. Buying car stereo stuff is alot like buying a car (they mark stuff alot).
i recommand 8" bazooka tubes...i have one myself...and it's right behind my seat so it's a good tump...it's not one of those subs that'll shake the cars next to you...but it's good enough for me...it sound great inside...which is what i wanted...if your looking for subs that'll turn heads...i don't think these will do it... :D

[ddriggers2]

There is no need for speakers in the back. All it does is make the soundstage worse. In fact, our trucks can image very well if you do not run speakers in the rear. I have a 3way setup in the doors and kickpanels and it sounds great. I use 1 single 12 in the rear in a slot ported box. I am about ro re-build everything at the beginning of the year. Raising the hump in the floor up by a couple inches. Sub dead center in the rear over the hump angled towards the rear of the cab, and the amps on either side of it under some grille metal accented with cold cathode tubes. Should sound pretty good.

But back to the question at hand...you should spend your money on a nicer amp of set of speakers for the front and a sub in the rear. It is just money more wisely spent IMO. Now, if you are wanting to do a surround sound thing in the cab, then of course I wrote all of this for nothing.

Danny

[Stroonzo]

I agree about putting speakers in the rear. It is a waste. You may elect to put some mid bass speakers back there though. Like a 6½" Mid Bass Speakers running only mid bass. Then add you a single 10" for the real bass. Keep your sound stage up front.

[akshunj]

There is no need for speakers in the back. All it does is make the soundstage worse. In fact, our trucks can image very well if you do not run speakers in the rear. I have to disagree. With a good set of speakers in the rear the soundstage can be made to sound excellent. Some tricks that will help the imaging are first to stuff the rear compartments with some type of polyfill. This drastically improves the low end and helps eliminate the hollow metal sound.

Next, reverse the polarity on the tweeters. This will make the speakers sound farther away. With the tweeters in the rear 180 degrees out of phase you will hear the difference.

Another trick that works well is to shift the fader to the front. On my Alpine I have the fader shifted forward to 2. I had to do this to compensate for the extra low end stuffing the rear compartment provided until I could do the same with the front.

If you have the ability, you can also cross the front speakers over at lower frequency. This will also shift the emphasis of the soundstage to the front speakers. I tinkered for a bit until I settled at crossing the rears over at 80Hz and the fronts over at 65Hz.

Last but not least is the front speakers. Their location in the door is not the best but it's not a bad spot to work with. The first thing I did was spray the inside of the door with some rubberized undercoating. You have to be careful doing this not to plug up the drain holes in the bottom of the door. This eliminates the hollow metal sound the mid bass seems to produce at high volumes.

After than I put some strips of thick foam slong all the corners inside the door. This did wonders for the bass and eliminated the need to shift the fader to the front.

Currently, I'm within 3dB from 400hz to 18khz on the RTA. I still need to add my sub and then my Eq's to finish balancing the system. I might go do the IASCA thing for a year if I ever get it finished. RTA time is expensive if you don't own one.

[akshunj]

I ended up going with these Polks. I spent a lot of time listening to speakers and settled on these. They are available as components but I went with the coax design for ease of install. Just ditch the bling grilles. I used them for frisbee's to play with the dog.

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/products/2003/107/h107mmc650.jpeg

[drinkintedbr]

I am going to have to disagree with front only. I understand that it is cheaper to only get one set of speakers, but having the two speakers in the back also makes it sound a lot louder. I would have to say that if you hook all four speakers up to a 4-channel amp the surround sound effect sounds really good. It helps out alot when watching DVDs. Another bad thing about having only front speakers is when someone's leg is in front of the speaker. Personally, it drowns out almost all of the sound coming from the speaker. It dulls the sound so bad that I decided to put a 6x9 in between the two bucket seats in my single cab 99. So, back to my main point, a good 4-channel amp will make your system sound alot better (a good cdplayer will help alot also i.e. Eclipse).

[4xClover]

I have a set of Polk 6 1/2's in the back and in the front door with the tweeter in the door via the 4 Runner Tweeter mounts.

[4xClover]

Nice Polks AKSHUNJ!!

[akshunj]

Nice Polks AKSHUNJ!!
Thanks. Honest they blew away the MB Quarts I was going to buy and they were actually a bit cheaper too. I was comparing them using a Rockford Fos 8004 amp which was operating well beyond the rated RMS of the speakers. They held in there just fine.

[4xClover]

Thanks. Honest they blew away the MB Quarts I was going to buy and they were actually a bit cheaper too. I was comparing them using a Rockford Fos 8004 amp which was operating well beyond the rated RMS of the speakers. They held in there just fine.

Hmmm......something to think about if/when mine need to be replaced.

[ddriggers2]

I have to disagree. With a good set of speakers in the rear the soundstage can be made to sound excellent. Some tricks that will help the imaging are first to stuff the rear compartments with some type of polyfill. This drastically improves the low end and helps eliminate the hollow metal sound.

Next, reverse the polarity on the tweeters. This will make the speakers sound farther away. With the tweeters in the rear 180 degrees out of phase you will hear the difference.

Another trick that works well is to shift the fader to the front. On my Alpine I have the fader shifted forward to 2. I had to do this to compensate for the extra low end stuffing the rear compartment provided until I could do the same with the front.

If you have the ability, you can also cross the front speakers over at lower frequency. This will also shift the emphasis of the soundstage to the front speakers. I tinkered for a bit until I settled at crossing the rears over at 80Hz and the fronts over at 65Hz.

Last but not least is the front speakers. Their location in the door is not the best but it's not a bad spot to work with. The first thing I did was spray the inside of the door with some rubberized undercoating. You have to be careful doing this not to plug up the drain holes in the bottom of the door. This eliminates the hollow metal sound the mid bass seems to produce at high volumes.

After than I put some strips of thick foam slong all the corners inside the door. This did wonders for the bass and eliminated the need to shift the fader to the front.

Currently, I'm within 3dB from 400hz to 18khz on the RTA. I still need to add my sub and then my Eq's to finish balancing the system. I might go do the IASCA thing for a year if I ever get it finished. RTA time is expensive if you don't own one.


Alright, your opinion is yours and we differ there. I cannot tell from your name or post how long you have been competing, but I have a very different opinion about that. I find it hard enough to get a good center stage with a decent width in our trucks to totally make it harder to acheive by putting a speaker behind you. There are true SQ guys out there who go as far as to put a sub in front of them in the foot well or make a pod in front of the firewall just to get bass up front.

Sure, if you want loud, go for all the speakers you can cram in the cab. Hell put some in the headrests next to that monitor you may want in a regular cab for extra Bling, but it still isn't going to help the sound stage.

If you want SQ, Get a 3-way component set and put the Midbass 6.5's in the door locations and make kickpanels for a midrange and Tweet. No need to go up on the dash or A-pillars in our trucks either. The dash is low enough to get your favorite artist to sound like He or She is standing right up there on it singing to you.

I do not compete, but I know what sounds good to me. Even in my wife's CR-V I find myself fading the speakers all the way up front unless we are hauling another person with us.

Just my 2 cents. Not attacking you at all akshunj, b/cI beleive you like the sound and that is what matters. Good luck on the circuit.

Danny

[Half Baked Taco]

Alright, your opinion is yours and we differ there. I cannot tell from your name or post how long you have been competing, but I have a very different opinion about that. I find it hard enough to get a good center stage with a decent width in our trucks to totally make it harder to acheive by putting a speaker behind you. There are true SQ guys out there who go as far as to put a sub in front of them in the foot well or make a pod in front of the firewall just to get bass up front.

Sure, if you want loud, go for all the speakers you can cram in the cab. Hell put some in the headrests next to that monitor you may want in a regular cab for extra Bling, but it still isn't going to help the sound stage.

If you want SQ, Get a 3-way component set and put the Midbass 6.5's in the door locations and make kickpanels for a midrange and Tweet. No need to go up on the dash or A-pillars in our trucks either. The dash is low enough to get your favorite artist to sound like He or She is standing right up there on it singing to you.

I do not compete, but I know what sounds good to me. Even in my wife's CR-V I find myself fading the speakers all the way up front unless we are hauling another person with us.

Just my 2 cents. Not attacking you at all akshunj, b/cI beleive you like the sound and that is what matters. Good luck on the circuit.

Danny

I hate for my first post to sound like it's taking sides, but I have to totally agree. Our cab's are so small that for a good "soundstage" you don't need the rear fill.

If you want loud ...by all means go that route...

[akshunj]

LOL, I don't think I am being attacked or anyone is taking sides. I just happen to think it sounds good and the response curve on the RTA is almost perfect. A little more tweaking to do when I get home.

[MDTRD]

...8" bazooka tubes...i have one myself...and it's right behind my seat...it's not one of those subs that'll shake the cars next to you...it sounds great inside...if your looking for subs that'll turn heads...i don't think these will do it... :D

I had an 89 Z-24 w/Pioneer stereo, Pioneer EQ, Crutchfield 4ch (50W/ch RMS) amp powering 2 Pioneer 4x6 2ways up front and 2 Pioneer 6x9 4ways in the rear, Cali Profile 600W(max, don't know the RMS) 2ch amp powering 2 10" Bazookas. Those subs THUMPED! (I kept cracking my windshield that was already cracked.) They're not as loud, outside the car, as subs in a box. You get better quality if they're positioned correctly.

I also agree with putting components in the front, full range or components in the rear and 1 or 2 subs in the rear but no bigger than 10s. I have Infinity Kappa 60.5cs(component w/tweeter above door latch) in the front and Kappa 62.1(2ways) in the rear powered by that "old ass but still functioning" Crutchfield amp and JConti's custom 10" sealed box powered by the Cali Profile amp. This is all running off the stock, head unit utilizing line converters. My system sounds GOOD.

The reason why I say run at least the 4 full range and/or components is b/c, IMO, I don't think they'll be enough highs and/or mids to balance everything. If anyone has a good balance, due tell.

[akshunj]

The reason why I say run at least the 4 full range and/or components is b/c, IMO, I don't think they'll be enough highs and/or mids to balance everything. If anyone has a good balance, due tell.
I've got my response curve within 3dB from 400Hz up. I don't have the sub in yet so I can't do much more below 400hz.

[MDTRD]

I've got my response curve within 3dB from 400Hz up. I don't have the sub in yet so I can't do much more below 400hz.

How does it sound? I bet a sub would really set your system off.

[jayotto4]

Check out my webshots. In the 99 taco album I think I have some pics of my old set up. I used two JL8w0 in a simple self made box. I took out the seet pad and it squeezes under the back pad to hold it in place. The thing rocks.http://community.webshots.com/user/jays99taco

[akshunj]

How does it sound? I bet a sub would really set your system off.
It sounds awesome. I can max the volume with no audible distortion.

A sub is all I need at this point. I have an amp and a cap I just need a sub and to install it all. Once the sub goes in I can dial in the low end and figure how much to drop the crossovers on the midbass. I have them set for all pass at this point just so I have some bass.

The response of the Polk Momo's I have are off a little in the low end. It's my fault though, I have the rear panels stuffed so much there's a huge peak in response below 400hz. With the front's I didn't add enough damping material inside the door so the rear sounds boomy compared to the front.

I'm trying to figure out how to add enough damping material inside the doors without blocking the drain holes.

[silverback04]

Okay, I busted one of my rear factory speakes, so I'm asking are there any aftermarket speakers that I put can put in the rear and kindof keep it looking stock. (if Possible) If not any speaker rec. would be very helpful. :D

[akshunj]

Okay, I busted one of my rear factory speakes, so I'm asking are there any aftermarket speakers that I put can put in the rear and kindof keep it looking stock. (if Possible) If not any speaker rec. would be very helpful. :D
Sure, most aftermarket speakers will fit. With the Polk's I used, I had to shave the back of the factory grille a little to clear the tweeter. The bracket I made to fit the speaker was too thick. I started off with 3/4" MDF and then 1/2" and then found out if I had just used 1/4" mdf I would not have had to shave the back of the grilles. It is ok though, you can't see the grille was modified from the outside.

[ByrdDog20]

Some tricks that will help the imaging are first to stuff the rear compartments with some type of polyfill. This drastically improves the low end and helps eliminate the hollow metal sound.

Next, reverse the polarity on the tweeters. This will make the speakers sound farther away. With the tweeters in the rear 180 degrees out of phase you will hear the difference.


I am impressed. Any suggestions for a xcab with a factory CD/Tape (for theft reasons) and Boston NX67s up front. Prefer not to amp but want as good quality sound as possible without any visible changes.

Thanks

[akshunj]

An aftermarket headunit is your best bet to be honest. You can install one without cutting any wires and maintain the ability to go back to stock easily. I understand the theft concerns. I've been there and done that.

I know you'd probably prefer not to amp but it is the best way to go if you want to improve sound quality/quantity. Using the factory deck is going to require you to do one of two things, either buy a "line out converter" which will take the speaker level high voltage outputs of the factory deck and convert them to low voltage RCA type outputs, or buy an amplifier that will accept the high voltage, speaker level inputs.

If you're up to it you could always make your own line out converter which is simply a voltage dividing circuit. 100k ohms will usually do the trick.

If you choose to buy an amp here is what you can do to keep it stock looking and maintain the ability to go back to stock.

Buy the factory adapter harness that plugs "into radio" this will help you avoid cutting your truck's wiring;

http://www.installer-data.com/item/display_item.php?it=wh77

Then get the adapter that plugs "into car" (into car wiring) Now you can plug into the stock deck, and route the speaker wires from the factopry deck to the amp or line out converter.

http://www.installer-data.com/item/display_item.php?it=wh78



Then route the speaker outputs from the amp back to the headunit and use the other adapter (into car one) to wire the amp right into the truck's stock speaker wire.

The remote turn on lead for the amp can run off of the power antenna lead of your factory deck. This can also be tapped into using the adapter harnesses.

There ya go, you can uninstall any of this by simply unplugging the adapter harnesses and reconnect the stock wiring.

The amp can be hooked up without modifying anything you or anyone else will see. If you put the amp under the driver's seat, al you'll need to do is put a small cut in the carpet under the seat to pull the wires through from under it.

The power cable you'll need to run from the battery will only require a small slice be put in one of the rubber grommets in the firewall. When you remove the wire you'd never even know it was there.

Ground the amp to one of the seat bolts underneath the carpet where nobody will see it.

[ByrdDog20]

Thanks for the reply, will be a while before funds allow me to purchase a descent amp. Good idea though using the two harnesses to keep from splicing into the wiring.

[silverback04]

:D
Okay, I just bought a pair of Polk speakers off ebay, 66.00 bucks. They were 99 at CC, Now I just have a couple more questions. First off, will any big electronics stores, install a product I didn't purchase from there store. If not are there any instructions or writeups on how to install them myself. Do I need a amp and all that stuff or can I just disconnect the stock speakers and drop these in? Any help would be greatful. :p

[akshunj]

Just install them yourself. You'll need to get a pair of adapter brackets to fit the polks. They will not fit the factory brackets. The brackets will cost $12 to $15. You can get them from Crutchfield or from Circuit City, Best Buy, or any car stereo store. Metra or Scosche make them.

As for the write ups, I think Custom Tacos may have the Crutchfield Install sheets. IF not, I'll post a step by step for you. Give me some time, I am leaving Kuwait in about 4 hours and won't be home for a couple of days.

[MDTRD]

It sounds awesome. I can max the volume with no audible distortion.

A sub is all I need at this point. I have an amp and a cap I just need a sub and to install it all. Once the sub goes in I can dial in the low end and figure how much to drop the crossovers on the midbass. I have them set for all pass at this point just so I have some bass.

The response of the Polk Momo's I have are off a little in the low end. It's my fault though, I have the rear panels stuffed so much there's a huge peak in response below 400hz. With the front's I didn't add enough damping material inside the door so the rear sounds boomy compared to the front.

I'm trying to figure out how to add enough damping material inside the doors without blocking the drain holes.

Dam, sounds like you have put alot of planning into this.

[akshunj]

Dam, sounds like you have put alot of planning into this.
Yeah lot's of time on paper before I installed anything.

[silverback04]

Do you guys know where I can find a write up for intstalling those polks in my extended cap.

[akshunj]

Do you guys know where I can find a write up for intstalling those polks in my extended cap.In the door or in the rear panels?

[RENEGADE76254]

i dont know where i saw it but there is a plasic inster that replaces the rear hump seat that holds 2 8" subs and uses the space below the seats as the box. dunno if its what ur lookin, i think it was performance products but i cant verify that.

[silverback04]

Rear panel,
Already have the speakers to replace stocks, just need a write up to guide me through it. Also I guess I need to ask is this a job for a beginner? This would be my first time doing anything like this on my truck.

[silverback04]

Well first off I like to thank all you guys for giving me some advice. Just to rap things up like I said earlier I got a pair of Polk 5x7 and had them installed today in the rear and they sound great. Also since my truck is still under warr. I called my local STEALER and they me they would order me a new speaker for my truck and "I" could install it myself. So Now I think I'll use that pair of speakers somewhere in my truck (ANy Suggestions?????).. Again thanks guys and Happy Holidays...

[akshunj]

Well first off I like to thank all you guys for giving me some advice. Just to rap things up like I said earlier I got a pair of Polk 5x7 and had them installed today in the rear and they sound great. Also since my truck is still under warr. I called my local STEALER and they me they would order me a new speaker for my truck and "I" could install it myself. So Now I think I'll use that pair of speakers somewhere in my truck (ANy Suggestions?????).. Again thanks guys and Happy Holidays...
Which speakers are the dealer ordering for you the front or the rear? If they are the factory rear speakers I wouldn't use them at all. The stock rear speakers on the 95-00 Tacoma are 8 ohm speakers that sound ok at best.

[Doc_Sausage]

Wow, I was gonna say like cut out the grill and put 8 inch woofers in, and then like big friggin amps... I own a 89 trans am gta, and I have to admit, you all can take your soundstaging, sound quality, and center cannel balance and shuv it...

Ain't nuttin like 2500 watts, 4 10's, 2 6x9's, 2 4x6's, and a mullet set on full with the t-tops down, and some honeys in stretch pants droolin. I rule the trailer park. Volume rulz... Gun's and Roses rule.. Sissy's, with sound stage. Ozzy Ozzy Ozzy. Next you will tell me the casette player is a waste of time, fags...

(ps: you should love the polks...)

Hair metal rulz.