View Full Version : quick question on paint matching
I think I know the answer, but not quite certain.
Can you take your vin number into a automotive paint supplier and have them match your paint color?
I have the desert myst or whatever Toyota calls it, and I know there was some variation between year models, and I would like to match it the best possible for my '97.
Or should I just try and have the supplier try and match the paint as it is on the truck as I am sure there has been some sun fade as well.
how do body shops match paint?
06-12-2006, 01:29 PM
look for the paint code on the door sticker then find the color chips and match the best variant to the truck. you still might have to adjust to color due to color fade over time but u can do it. just drive to a auto body supply store (that sells and mixes paint) and they will be more than happy to do business.
Okay, that was what I was thinking, color code on the door, not vin number (sorry)
what about clear coat? what are the hidden traps with that stuff? I know the more coats, the deep the gloss, how can you tell when enough is enough to match the factory clear coat? or does Toyota just put a certain amount of coats on? like say two or something like that?
thanks for the help BTW. I have always been pretty handy with the rattle can, but I am trying to do this project right as well as increase the teen age daughter's interest in body work. So I am trying to make sure and have answers for her before they come up. We have been doing a lot of book research, but we are getting ready to pull the trigger (pardon the pun) so I need some minor advise.
06-12-2006, 01:44 PM
you could buy a mill gauge to try to keep close to the same film thickness. clears mostly differ with flash and dry times, mostly for quick shop work. if you are blending into a adjacent panel you will want a blend agent, which will open up the existing clear and help the new stuff adhere towards the edge. there is so much to learn in this area, you could go to school for the rest of your life and still be outdated. your best bet is getting to know a person at the paint store and they will be able to walk you through everything.
Sounds like sound advice! thanks.
I won't be blending into existing panels though, I need to repaint front fenders so the surfaces will just butt up to the doors and hood. I was thinking that the clear coat would throw off the appearance of the new painted parts next to the old.
For this project, I am mostly looking for repair advice opposed to painting techiques ( am guessing)
But hopefully in the future we will be custom painting some project cars. Just thinking that my taco would be a good test subject right now.
06-12-2006, 04:45 PM
i work at a body shop distributor. we dont have any way to check the vin# for code, other shops may though. as said before, bring in the door code and there will probobly be several variants of that code, with chips to match your truck. with cheaper brands of paint, they won't offer any variants, the good paint will. my advice is always to spend more money on the good stuff. i've seen a lot of people buy cheap shit, only to be unhappy with the color match, and pay me more money to tint it to match. As for clear, 1.5-2 coats should be perfect. I wouldn't bother with the mil gauge, because the OEM tends to skimp on the clear and lay it on thin.
That is good advice! thanks
I already started searching around at a few small local places and they told me the same thing about the differences with the cheaper paiint and the tinting and stuff. It's great to have someone varify what I was previously told.
How much paint should I order to paint the front fenders and the hood? My guess was about a pint, or should I just get a quart?
As with most of my projects what has started out small, is growing very rapidly. If I don't hurry up and just do what I have planned (the fenders) I will probably end up painting the whole truck!
06-13-2006, 11:13 AM
I went to a local auto body paint supplier and gave them the door jamb paint code. In about 15-20 minutes, the guy was able to mix up a batch of paint in a little spray bottle that was an exact match. The paint supplier is a local place in Dallas called English Paint and Supply or something like that. Don't know if they have an English where you live, but just though I'd mention it just in case.
No English around that I know of, probably local to you Ed. I don't even remember one in San Antonio.
I just need to let my fingers do some walking through the yellow pages! But thanks!
I got an estimate yesterday at a local Napa that does a lot of auto paint supply business, but I was just wanting a ball park figure, as I do not expect to go through them. Anyway a pint of the "good stuff" was $60. So I figured I could add about20% to that figure, sound about right?
06-13-2006, 11:52 AM
glad to help. a pint plus whatever reducer or catalyst should be enough for fender an hood. $60 seems heavy for a pint of paint. i will check a price on a pint when i'm back at work.
oh, and i personally reccomend 'Standox' brand of paint(Division of DuPont). It's what i sell, easy to use and excellent quality stuff.
I was hoping you would recommend something!
So a pint of color should do huh? how much reducer/catalist do you think it will take?
Should I also get a pint of clear coat or do you think I will need more?
Sure do appreciate the help!
06-13-2006, 12:10 PM
standox is 2 parts paint, and 1 part reducer, so you end up with 1.5 pints sprayable product. other systems will be close to the same ratios i'm sure. clear, same deal. pint, plus catalyst (2:1 or 4:1 mixture typically) should be addequate.
Great info! thanks! As soon as I get my wife to stop spending money, I will go find the Standox!
06-13-2006, 12:52 PM
sitting at my desk right now, 1 pint of b/c is $53.64 canadian bucks. here's a link. go to jobber locator, and type in location and it should come up with standox jobbers.
Yup! in Indy, thanks for the link! I'll book mark it immediately!
06-13-2006, 03:10 PM
I have no idea how much a pint should go for. I think mine is probably less than a pint. English charged me $20 for the little bottle/can of spray paint. The price also included the guy scuffing the little piece I was going to paint and spray painting it for me. All I know is that it's a 100% exact match, unless my eyes are so bad that I just can't tell the difference - lol. I'm sure any other auto body paint supplier can mix up an exact match for ya, though.
06-13-2006, 08:28 PM
Ok, since everyone is talking paint..... I'm about to get ready to paint my 96' before I sell it. The actual paint isn't that bad, but the fact that there's enamel paint that got sprayed all over it makes the paint look like its been chipped pretty bad. It also needs some minor body work, lower rear portion of the bed and some minor door dings and cab dings. Anyways, I'm going to repaint the whole truck(its that black sand color aka black), approximately how much paint and clear would I need to do the whole truck? Its an ex-cab btw. Thankfully, there won't be much bondo needed, just enough to cover the minute dents. As far as a gun goes, I'm goin to go w/ a gravity feed gun. However, can anyone recommend a decent gun that's not like $500? Thanks, Wes
06-13-2006, 09:23 PM
i'd say 3 quarts of paint. same for clear. i'm painting my truck in a week or 2 weeks, so i can give you a better idea then. look for a devilbill finishline gun. i'm selling them at 150 bucks canadian dollars. great guns, and cheap too.
06-14-2006, 06:50 PM
Ok, thanks man! Let us know how it comes out. Peace, Wes
06-14-2006, 08:32 PM
I second the finishline for a decent cheap gun. As far as Standox, that stuff was pretty pricy if I remember right, however it is an excellent product. If you want good color match and you want to save a few bucks, I reccommend you use a good base coat(standox,ICI, dupont,PPG) and maybe a cheaper clear. I have used everything from the 400 dollar a gallon ICI clears to the 75 dollar a gallon omni clears. IMO, Nason(dupont) select clear is some of the best clear on the market and its only about 85 bucks for a gallon setup. It's really durable, has an outstanding shine, and it is super easy to buff out
06-14-2006, 08:38 PM
dont tell me u mix products on one job :eek:
06-14-2006, 11:14 PM
nason is excellent clear for the price that you can pick it up for. and whats your problem with mixing products?
06-14-2006, 11:42 PM
try and shoot some sikkens over ppg, or even ppg omni over ppg deltron and see what happens in a few minutes or maybe a few years. product lines are made to work together molecularly, unless you want a shitty paint job this goes for nearly all products out there
06-15-2006, 07:18 AM
i've seen it happen many many times. with no ill effects. of course keeping apples with apples is better, but for some jobs, spending less is important. molecularly speaking, paint isn't that much different on quality paint anyway, it's all urethane based product. i've seen hardener mixed with a different clear coat, no problem, even probobly 2 year down the road now.
06-16-2006, 07:57 AM
If you allow for proper flash times on your base,and the nice long flash before you clear, then it doesn't really matter what clear you use. My truck is HOK base with nason clear. My brothers car is standox base with nason clear, my sisters car is, well you get the point.I have also done several more for friends with no ill effect. From a warranty standpoint, it isn't good, but that's because manufacturers want you to stick with their product line. To each is own, personally I will continue to do this because I absolutely love nason clear, but I think their base sucks
06-24-2006, 10:05 PM
you can go to www.paintscratch.com and get factory paint codes I believe.
I'll check that! thanks for the heads up
06-30-2006, 03:44 PM
I have a question for all you paint experts out there. How does a body shop blend paint on a body panel? I just don't quite understand how that works.
The reason I ask is that my truck is currently at a local body shop having the hood repainted. They told me that since the truck is 5 years old (and the paint on the hood is 4 years old), that they would more than likely have to blend the paint into the fenders due to fade.
In case anyone is wondering what started all this, Crown Toyota put a pretty big dent in my hood about 4 years ago so they sent it to the local Fix Auto to repair it. It looked great for about a year (better than factory) but a blemish started to appear that was attributed to settling. They buffed it out a couple of times and all was well until several weeks ago when the blemish returned. They buffed it out again and it looked okay until the next day when I noticed the paint looked a bit faded around where the dent was. On top of that, the clear coat started coming off in little spots around where the dent was also. That's when they decided to just repaint it.
My truck was supposed to be done today but the painter decided to sand and prime the entire hood this time to avoid the settling issue again in the future and now it'll be done either Monday or Wednesday. As much of a pain in the rear as this all is, at least they are paying for my rental car as well as painting the faded area on the top of my front bumper while they have it.
06-30-2006, 05:16 PM
google paint blending, there are some good write ups on it. i don't have the patience to type it all out.
06-30-2006, 05:29 PM
Google turned up one useful link:
So now I know.
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