2005 Tacoma locker Mod

[05yota4x4]

Has anyone figured out the grey wire mod for the new 05's yet

[bill4x4]

The 4Wheel ECU is above/behind glove box. I see a small gray wire but am looking for someone that has done the job on the 2005. Will probably try to figure it out with an ohm-meter or locate/buy a schematic. Someone out there surely must have figured out this mod. Any info appreciated.

[Gargoyle]

The 4Wheel ECU is above/behind glove box. I see a small gray wire but am looking for someone that has done the job on the 2005. Will probably try to figure it out with an ohm-meter or locate/buy a schematic. Someone out there surely must have figured out this mod. Any info appreciated.
I have looked into this a bit. The ECU and 4WD computers do not appear to "talk" to each other the same way they did before (which was the grey wire). I have not been able to determine how to work out this mod in the '05, but I have not given up yet.
As for some schematics, here is from a previous post of mine:
Yes on the wiring diagrams. Go to http://www.nowwgasa.net/ and click on the "Vehicle Buildups" link then go to the '05 X Runner "full info..." link. They have the wiring diagrams there in a set of zipped .pdf files! I don't know if it is ligit, so make your own call.

[xenofuhrman]

I have narrowed it down, just dont have the time yet to figure it out.

If you open the zip files and check out the circuits file folder, open abs_trac_vsc... and scroll to page 3. This shows where the wiring goes to the transfer indicator switch (I believe how the vehicle determines if it is in 4lo)

Then if you look at the file called reardifferentiallock_2wd, scroll to page 1 and 2 for the wiring diagram of the rear diff lock and sensor. Also, scroll to page 3 for a description of how the system controls the diff lockout.

I think we are getting a lot closer.

[xenofuhrman]

I also just found that multimode4wd_reardifferentiallock.pdf has some good info on page 1 and 2.

[bill4x4]

Thanks for the great info and looks like I don't have to waste $100+ on schematics now. Am studying them, boy sure gets complicated fast. Notice that in the 'reardifferentiallock_2wd.pdf', 4Wheel ECU pin 7 is grounded, but in the 'multimode4wd_differentiallock.pdf' it is not shown. Wonder if this pin is overriding signals normally there on 4wd's to allow lockup on the 2wd ?

[Gargoyle]

Thanks for the great info and looks like I don't have to waste $100+ on schematics now. Am studying them, boy sure gets complicated fast. Notice that in the 'reardifferentiallock_2wd.pdf', 4Wheel ECU pin 7 is grounded, but in the 'multimode4wd_differentiallock.pdf' it is not shown. Wonder if this pin is overriding signals normally there on 4wd's to allow lockup on the 2wd ?
I have been looking at the overall schematic. On 19-1 they show the 2H-4H-4L switch connecting to diodes and two wires to the 4WD control ECU. The signals work thus: Pin-8 (GR), ground = 2H; Pin-8 and Pin-15 (L), ground = 4H; Pin-15, ground = 4L. I assume that those two pins have an internal pull-up to logic-high and the combination of ground on the pins tells the 4WD computer what mode you are in.
The four lines used to lock and unlock the differential all come directly from the 4WD computer.
I am trying to figure out the effects of T13 (transfer indicator switch) on the system.
If we bang enough heads against the desk, maybe we can figure this thing out. I am also trying to figure if I modify this thing to allow me to UNLOCK the 4L at any speed. Boy do I miss the manual transfer case!

[bill4x4]

I'm thinking they may have done some of this to prevent us from doing a simple mod to lock in 4 Hi. Looks like it's been made to where all the inputs will have to be faked into thinking it's truely in 4 Lo which results in the main computer adjusting shift points etc... just like the blue wire mod. Still wondering what the grounded pin 7 which appears on the 2 Wheel rear diff lock schematic does and that the key may be understanding the difference between the 2 wheel and 4 wheel ECU wiring. Let me know of any more info as it looks like you are making good progress, but my gut feel is that we may be into simply wiring a manual switch setup that provides inputs to D10 Diff Lock shift actuator assembly. Hmmm ?

[Gargoyle]

I'm thinking they may have done some of this to prevent us from doing a simple mod to lock in 4 Hi. Looks like it's been made to where all the inputs will have to be faked into thinking it's truely in 4 Lo which results in the main computer adjusting shift points etc... just like the blue wire mod. Still wondering what the grounded pin 7 which appears on the 2 Wheel rear diff lock schematic does and that the key may be understanding the difference between the 2 wheel and 4 wheel ECU wiring. Let me know of any more info as it looks like you are making good progress, but my gut feel is that we may be into simply wiring a manual switch setup that provides inputs to D10 Diff Lock shift actuator assembly. Hmmm ?
I worked through the schematics a bit more last night and I can conclude the following: the simple "grey wire" mod is no more; the 2WD and 4WD models likely have different "4WD" ECUs; to make the locker work in any other mode, we will have to come up with a modified (possibly plug-in) addapter to rewire the harness between the locker and the 4WD ECU.
My thought is that the 4WD ECU will have to be bypassed with a custom setup. This may not be too hard.
Working from the 2wd locker description, this is how I think the 4WD locker works (you will need to reference the schematic to follow this):
- Switch the RR Diff Lock on (with SPD in correct logic state, and 2-4 and LO in correct logic state, and maybe even the MTN or N in the correct state), causes current to flow from 4WD fuse to IG (pin 5), out M1 (pin 2), through the Diff Lock Shift Actuator Assembly (DLSAA) motor, into M2 (pin 1), out RLY1 (pin13), through the DLSAA limit switch, to GROUND.
- Eventually the diff locks and the DLSAA limit switch will remove the ground connection from the motor (power connection is still there?).
- Switch the RR Diff Lock off, causes current to flow from 4WD fuse to IG, out M2, throught the DLSAA motor, into M1, out RLY2, through the DLSAA limit switch to GROUND.
- Again, the diff lock eventually disengages and the DLSAA limit switch will remove the ground connection from the motor.
- When the diff lock is engaged, the Transfer Indicator SW is closed. This will ground the Rear Diff Lock LED (turn it on). While the diff lock is waiting to engage, the RLP (pin 20) line on the 4WD ECU can pull the same line to ground in order to flash the LED (waiting to engage, it knows this based on the RLY1/RLY2 status?).

So the big question is: are the M1 or M2 lines hot all the time? If so, I can invision a custom setup that will route the power to the DLSAA motor with the flip of the diff lock switch. Remove the connection to R from the diff lock switch and the 4WD ECU just thinks that you never like to engage the locker. Remove the connection to the RLP and you even get the indicator LED to work! Route the hot output line (M2?) to a relay (DPDT) that works with the diff lock switch and pushes the power to the proper side of the motor and have the ground from the DLSAA limit switch work with the same relay and wha-la, a locker that works whenever you want it to. The best part is that the ECU doesn't know about any of the changes and never will see the actuation of the locker.
To get this to work, I need to check out the state of the lines running between the locker and the 4WD ECU when it is not locked, when it is trying to lock, when it is locked, etc. That way I can be sure that my mod will properly route all of the signals and not interfere with the rest of the 4WD ECU operation.
How is that for a full post? ;)

[bill4x4]

This sounds good - you can become rich and market the thing. One of the reasons I bought the truck was after I found out the locker could be moded to lock in 4-Hi (assuming the gray wire mod would work). Always wished it just had a stout limitied slip diff. option, not the fake setup they have now on the Sport versions using antilock coupled with computer. Keep us posted.

[crawler#976]

Any updated status on this research?

[Gargoyle]

No update yet. Sorry. Life keeps encroaching on hobbies.

[xenofuhrman]

Anyone with good news yet?

[scottnmos]

This sounds good - you can become rich and market the thing. One of the reasons I bought the truck was after I found out the locker could be moded to lock in 4-Hi (assuming the gray wire mod would work). Always wished it just had a stout limitied slip diff. option, not the fake setup they have now on the Sport versions using antilock coupled with computer. Keep us posted.

So let me get this straight. There isnt actually a limited slip in the diff.. its some anti lock computer thing? Lol....sigh...

[tbrown]

So let me get this straight. There isnt actually a limited slip in the diff.. its some anti lock computer thing? Lol....sigh...

No you can get a real limited slip. The TRD sport models have a real limited slip, the offroad models don't they have a locker, and all other models have an open diff. All the models can be ordered as an option with the VCS package. For the non sport models like the TRD offroad it uses brake manipulation to simulate a LSD. The package also includes down hill assist, hil start assist, and VSC.

[Dick Foster]

I looked at the schematic for you guys. It looks just like the same actuator used in earlier years. Even the pin numbers are the same. As such this mod should work just as well for the 2005 as other years. It's in the Tech/FAQ section here too.

http://www.norcalttora.com/~dick/Writeup%20Stuff/toyota_elock_control.pdf

Edit,
I forgot to add this link for a switch and whatnot all done up if you want to go that way with it. Personally I don't like the looks of this one, I used an illuminated rocker for mine but some folks find that buying something already put together to some extent a lot easier. If you look around you should be able to find the right kind of switch that would fit the hole that the factory switch sets in. If you used relays, you could even use the factory switch and just unplug that troublesome locker ECU thing.

http://www.12voltguy.com/catalog.0.html2.0.html

[xenofuhrman]

Well... thats an option I've never seen - I may get desperate.

I just liked the grey wire mod since it was already wired and it had the speed/load sensor built in, you just had to bypass the 4-lo signal coming from the t-case.

[Dick Foster]

I think that speed input was about half the problem people had with the elocker. This way you can lock it up when you want to.

[Gargoyle]

Dick, nice write-up. I was not aware that anyone had worked out a circuit that completely bypasses the 4WD computer (kinda like I described earlier). I intend to do this, just so I have full control of my locker--rather than rigging the computer into thinking it was in control. Your method, a good DPDT relay, use of the original switch and maybe the original indicator looks like my ticket.

[Gargoyle]

...The package also includes down hill assist, hil start assist, and VSC.
Only on the automatic. Us stick guys have to figure out the hill stuff on our own. ;)

[cb77DEMELLO]

Has anyone figured out the grey wire mod for the new 05's yet

If you figure this out could you post it here or pM?

[Dick Foster]

Do a damn search you NOOB.

[bill4x4]

Good info; so the Sport has a real limited slip !? Every time I punch it in the TRD offroad and burn a single tire, in dirt or pavement, I hate not having two wheels under torque and want a limited slip or locker on command. Do you think Eaton will come through for the 05' or that having a locker (4 Low only) is worth it !!! It does quite well up the gnarly hills when locked in 4 Low.

[xenofuhrman]

Has anyone succeeded yet?

[TACODOC]

Has anyone succeeded yet?
Well???

[Dick Foster]

http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?postid=119086#post119086

Why screw with it? Just get it done final final like.

[bill4x4]

No, I haven't had time to work on it lately and am hoping someone comes through. Actually I would like a good limited slip even better, since it would get traction all around on and off road etc... Will have to wait for that, and then there is the money detail. I will admit though that the locker really performs on the gnarly slow steep uphills in 4 lo ! But in 4 hi it's open diff. time which is irritating. Keep me posted.

[xenofuhrman]

I have tried every combination of connecting wires that seems to make sense in the wiring diagrams - without success.

I am not an electrician... so has anyone else had better luck?

[SouperSport]

I'm new to TTORA, but have been on CustomTacos and tundrasolutions For awhile. (Mostly TS)

Was just referred here for the '05 Locker discussion. seems no one has figure it out and thought I'd lend a hand if possible.

Is there a newer thread on this I should know about? Hate to post all my input just to find everyone is following a more recent thread... :rolleyes:

[SouperSport]

Well to answer a few questions I noticed...

bill4x4... Pin 7 on "reardifferentiallock_2wd.pdf', is pin 6 on 'multimode4wd_differentiallock.pdf'. It's not an overide... is the actual ground for the actuator motor.

Gargoyle (& everyone else)... As Dick Foster described, if the Diff lock was completely disconected from the computer and wired up as shown, you would be using the limit switch as the ground shut off switch when activating/deactivating the e-lock. You can manually activate the actuator this way.

The problem is that the computer still tries to read the sensor/switches to verify it's off (in other modes). Not really a problem on '04 and earlier because they have a seperate computer for the 4WD and the Diff lock. 2005+ are combined into one. This becomes obvious when you disconect the switches, actuator, etc and the 4WD indicator lights go haywire (as a few other 05+ Tacoma owners I know have encountered).

Solution: Wire the 4WD computer wires you will cut in their default "diff lock "off" position. You must complete any circuits the computer reads to verify the status of the diff lock as "OFF". Then you can Use the actuator independently (manually) of the computer.



********
I'm sure you all know this will also not disable ABS, VSC, etc if you bypass the computer and activate the diff lock manually. Also no "safety" features to keep you from accidentally switching it on at unsafe speeds.)

I also have a solution for this as well. You can continue to use the factory switch just like before, and enable/disable the same safety features just like the TRD Prerrunner (only in any mode: 2H, 4H, 4L) . Only you will have to purchase and wire up a SECOND 4WD computer from the prerunner (I think it's $400+), in addition to your (4X4) 4WD computer. I think you know where I'm going with this... Wire them up independently of each other, but they can both still communicate with the ECU, skid control ECU, ABS, etc)
********


In case you were wondering... I do not own a Tacoma YET! I'm buying an '06 TRD sometime around March, but I'm doing all my research NOW as this will probably be one of the first mods I perform. (However I work in Engineering at Edwards AFB, so I'm pretty handy with these wiring diagrams & stuff) :p

[Wgasa84]

I have looked into this a bit. The ECU and 4WD computers do not appear to "talk" to each other the same way they did before (which was the grey wire). I have not been able to determine how to work out this mod in the '05, but I have not given up yet.
As for some schematics, here is from a previous post of mine:
Yes on the wiring diagrams. Go to http://www.nowwgasa.net/ and click on the "Vehicle Buildups" link then go to the '05 X Runner "full info..." link. They have the wiring diagrams there in a set of zipped .pdf files! I don't know if it is ligit, so make your own call.
damn I didn't know someone acutally used anything from the xrunner. I've totaly forgotten about it since my buddy got rid of it.

glad you got use from it.

[Dick Foster]

Doesn't sounld like it would be very hard to fake out the ECU stuff and just use a switch to control the locker. If someone had a good wiring diagram of the 05/06, I could get it all figured out.

[Wgasa84]

Doesn't sounld like it would be very hard to fake out the ECU stuff and just use a switch to control the locker. If someone had a good wiring diagram of the 05/06, I could get it all figured out.
Dick, here (http://www.nowwgasa.net/pdf/xrunnerwiring/05wiringDiagram.ZIP) is the info I have. I believe its the wiring part of the 05 FSM.

[Dick Foster]

Just downloaded it. I give it a gander to see what I can see.

[Comattack]

I'm Back. Except with a different user ID (Previously SouperSport).


I have more info on wiring the second computer. An '04 Diff lock computer will work in place of a new Prerunner computer. They're almost the same. I found you can get a used one from a salvage yard or a used parts dealer for around $100.

Here's my reasoning for why I believe a second computer will work (and still disable ABS), and not make the 4WD computer go haywire with the locker components disconnected.

The Sport Model (4X4) still has the same computer except without a locker, so we should be able to disconnect the locker and simulate all the neccesary signals to make it think the locker does not exist, just the same as the Sport 4WD ECU. Make sense? If we can remove all the locker components from the computer successfully then we can wire them to a second computer.

ONLY VSC is disabled on a 4X4 when in L4 (ABS is still active).
A prerrunner has no L4 signal to disable VSC with the Locker engaged (look at the ABS w/ VSC diagram and you'll see that wire is only connected to ANYTHING on a 4X4), so the ABS indicator (from the diff lock indicator switch) should be sufficient to disable ABS as well as VSC, just as a prerunner would. This circuit is maintained by moving the wire from the old computer to the new one.


There are 4 items of concern regarding the locker. 1) The On/Off Switch, 2) The limit switch, 3) the indicator switch, and 4) the actuator (motor). In order to engage the locker in 2HI & 4HI, we need to make the 4WD computer "think" it is permanently disengaged, but still engage the locker and send signals to the ECU to disable ABS & VSC. Correct?

In the disengaged position, here's where were at:


On/Off switch has no continuity (no power or signal to 4WD computer). Therefore, Can be disconnected without tripping computer errors.

The limit switch: Terminal 13 (RLY1, Plug F12) is grounded, sending a disengaged signal to the computer. Terminal 21 (RLY2, plug F12) is open. #21 can be disconnected. If disconnecting #13 causes an error (in the off position of course) then that wire can be grounded to maintain that signal.

The indicator switch: Termnal 20 (RLP, Plug F12) of the 4WD ECU sends an on/off signal to the dash light causing it to blink until the indicator switch is grounded, which causes it to light up solid. The Junction box on that wire in the diagram, also splits off to the Skid ECU, a separate connection than the L4 connector, to disable ABS. You have to look at the ABS diagram to find it. Terminal 26, Plug S1 on the Skid Control ECU w/ VSC; Terminal 7, Plug S1 on the Skid Control ECU w/o VSC (2 different control ECUs). When the indicator switch is grounded, it ALSO grounds the terminal for the Skid ECU therby disabling ABS. The indicator switch wire is an open circuit otherwise (only blinks when enaging, we want it to think it's permanently disengaged), and should be able to be disconnected without a problem and attached to new computer (which would control the same functions).

The Actuator (motor): Obviously we would diconnect this and connect to the new computer. Shouldn't cause the 4WD ECU any problems. If disconnecting it alone in the off position trips the computer, than you can cut the wire at the ECU and simply insert a resister with the same ohm load as the motor. This would simulate it still being attached. (But I doubt it is neccesary).

That should cover all of our Differential Lock circuit with regard to the 4WD ECU. You can use that info to disconnect all the locker items and wire up a switch or whatever you like. (I personally plan to go with a second computer when I get my truck)

I thought this out pretty well, however there may be something I missed. If there is, I am not aware of it. (but I admit there could be). There also could be something that I thought was obvious and therefore failed to mention. I have all the electrical diagrams (2004 through 2006), so If you have a questions or comments, feel free to ask.

**************************************************


This info came from several different diagrams.
The Prerunner 4WD computer for the diff lock (reardifferentiallock_2wd.pdf for 2005; reardifflock_2wd.pdf for 2006).
The 4WD ECU for a 4X4 (multimode4wd_reardifferentiallock.pdf for 2005; multimode4wd_diflock.pdf for 2006),
the ABS w/ VSC, Trac Etc (abs_trac_vsc_autolsd_dac_hac.pdf; both 2005 & 2006)
the ABS w/o VSC (abs.pdf in the 2005 Diagram; abs_wo_vsc.pdf in 2006 diagram)
Owners manual, Section 1-7 (17.pdf; both 2005 & 2006)


**************************************************


If you want to try to check my theory of disconnecting the locker (to prove or disprove), give this a try.

With locker disengaged:
Disconnect the on/off switch.
Disconnect the actuator (motor).
Disconnect the Indicator switch from the ECU. (pull the plug and carefully remove the pin or something)
Leave the Limit switch intact and connected to the ECU (this one is easy to creat a dummy signal in the off position, no point going to extra trouble to ground one wire)

If you get errors and/or buzzers it means one of two things.
1) we need to create a dummy signal for the motor as well
2) or I obviously I missed some detail somewhere.

No Errors/buzzers.
1) Ground wire for limit switch (everything now completely disconnected/disabled)
2) and you can follow the above idea to wire a second computer or manual switch.

[Comattack]

By the way... I have already done up a wiring schematic to add a second computer. Since I have no truck to test it on yet, I won't release it as a "proven" method until I try it. (was not well recieved somewhere else, because it was not tested)

I may consider posting it or even emailing/PMing to individuals if there is interest in it.

[siambxr]

Brilliant ! keep us posted pls ...

[Comattack]

Brilliant !
Reminds me of that Guiness commercial... "Brilliant!!" :xbeer2:

I'll definately keep you guys updated.
However, as you can see in my sig, I have NO TRUCK yet.
I have everything figured out, wiring, schematics, everything (even a source to get the rear diff lock ECU for $100), but I'm limited in my ability to actually test the circuits without a truck. It'll be about 3 months before I can try it on my own (when I get mine).

If anyone wants to continue where I left off, feel free. I'll provide whatever info I can.

[tacosupreme]

I did it! I got a snow day at work, so I read Dick's write up and did the locker mod. Works great, and it seems like it engages a lot faster now too. As an added bonus, the stock indicator light still works, and it still disables ABS/VSC. If you ground out the blue wire with the yellow stripe (wich is what the locker indicator switch in the rear end does) it disables ABS and VSC just like you are in 4LO in 2HI. I plan on putting an "oh shit" switch somewhere to disengage that seperately. All of the wires are right there at the 4WD computer, so no need to roll under her and mess with the ones along the framerail. Overall, I had a successful snow day.

[teflonsean]

Can we get a detailed procedure on how to achieve this????

[tacosupreme]

http://www.norcalttora.com/~dick/Writeup%20Stuff/toyota_elock_control.pdf
It's pretty much the same as this, one or two wires are different. Maybe if I can stay out of the drivers seat for a while I'll come back and do a writeup, but I've been out playing with it and can't seem to keep my finger off the switch. Lots of fun in the snow!

[Comattack]

Very cool man!! :thumbs:

Love the snow pics!! :xrocker:

[rogersja63]

I did it! I got a snow day at work, so I read Dick's write up and did the locker mod. Works great, and it seems like it engages a lot faster now too. As an added bonus, the stock indicator light still works, and it still disables ABS/VSC. If you ground out the blue wire with the yellow stripe (wich is what the locker indicator switch in the rear end does) it disables ABS and VSC just like you are in 4LO in 2HI. I plan on putting an "oh shit" switch somewhere to disengage that seperately. All of the wires are right there at the 4WD computer, so no need to roll under her and mess with the ones along the framerail. Overall, I had a successful snow day.

So are the wires the same color code as in Dick's write-up? Is grounding out the VSC/ABS with the blue wire w/ white stripe just another optional mod or is it related to Dick's write-up? Nice work btw!

[tacosupreme]

NO the colors aren't the same. In Dick's writeup Green/red= blue on our truck. Orange on dicks writeup = Pink on our trucks. The power source (red)is whatever you make it., just be sure to use a wire that turns off with the ignition and one that's fused of course. I wanted a seperate switch to ground the blue wire with the white stripe because ABS and VSC suck in the snow and what if I want to do donuts without the locker on? I wish I would have done this months ago, it feels like a new toy again!

[rogersja63]

NO the colors aren't the same. In Dick's writeup Green/red= orange on our truck. Orange on dicks writeup = Pink on our trucks. The power source (red)is whatever you make it., just be sure to use a wire that turns off with the ignition and one that's fused of course. I wanted a seperate switch to ground the blue wire with the white stripe because ABS and VSC suck in the snow and what if I want to do donuts without the locker on? I wish I would have done this months ago, it feels like a new toy again!

Perfect, thanks for figuring this out!

Edit: I'm not seeing the "orange" wire in Dick's write-up, did you mean to say the "green=pink"? Also, so these 4 wires that used to go into 4wd computer are now just capped off? Sorry for the million questions but I don't want to burn up the computer when I do the mod this weekend. I just spent nearly $600.- putting the factory engine oil cooler in because I wasn't smart enough to insist on the factory tow package from the start and I'm also trying to save up for gears. Thanks again!

[tbrown]

Orange wire is there, bottom right. Maybe it's time to go to the Optometrist. :p

[tacosupreme]

I'll do a better writeup later, I have a hot date tonight boys-

[rogersja63]

Orange wire is there, bottom right. Maybe it's time to go to the Optometrist. :p

Sorry, I was looking at the black/white version that I printed :doh: Thanks, I'll print out a color version and shut up now with all the :newbie: questions :o

[RVM]

So we have our own grey wire mod now? Sweet. I need a detailed write-up with pics please! :D


:saw:


*edit*

Just saw the link - checking it out now. :)

[schoolie]

So we have our own grey wire mod now? Sweet.
x2

[tacosupreme]

yeah the four wires are just capped off, and the date went well, I'm typing this from her house...

[RVM]

I hope I don't seem like an idiot, but I don't see how this would allow me to activate my factory TRD locker at any time I choose. It seems designed for those who want to ADD a locker/actuator/switch.

Could someone clarify this please?

Thank you!

[tacosupreme]

It is designed for someone that wants to ADD a locker, the thing is, we already have one so why not just disconnect the two wires that go to the actuator motor and the other two wires that go to the limit switch from the 4WD ECU, put in our own switch, and enjoy being locked in 2HI?

[RVM]

Ahh I see. Well, I don't want to add another switch for the locker. :( Is there a way to make this work without adding a separate switch?

It is designed for someone that wants to ADD a locker, the thing is, we already have one so why not just disconnect the two wires that go to the actuator motor and the other two wires that go to the limit switch from the 4WD ECU, put in our own switch, and enjoy being locked in 2HI?

[tbrown]

Ahh I see. Well, I don't want to add another switch for the locker. :( Is there a way to make this work without adding a separate switch?
No one has come up with another way yet, and some pretty smart people have been racking their brain over this one for some time. If you want your locker to work in 2hi and 4hi this is the only way to go, for now anyway.

[Gargoyle]

Actually, you could use the original switch to drive a DPDT relay (rather than the switch in the instructions) and all should work.

[tacosupreme]

I had that thought too, but the auto store didn't have much selection on relays, and running a handful of singles just seems like a bad idea. I installed a seperate switch today on the blue wire with a white stripe that comes from the locker indicator switch so I can disable ABS and VSC, and wow what a difference. I never realized how much the VSC cut out the throttle, it feels like it unleashed fifty HP. I know it is all wasted in tire smoke, but it's fun anyway. Before I could barely get a bark in first, now I can smoke 'em through first and second and get a good bark in third.

[tacosupreme]

I am thinking of putting another switch in to disconnect the front diff in 4lo so I can have 2LO. It might be kind of pointless, and I can't really think of any logical reason to do it other than to make it a little more squirelly. What do you guys think?

edit- just found this- http://www.wattora.com/mods/twolow/ Of course since we don't have a manual shifter ours is slightly different, but the same theory applies.

[Comattack]

I am thinking of putting another switch in to disconnect the front diff in 4lo so I can have 2LO. It might be kind of pointless, and I can't really think of any logical reason to do it other than to make it a little more squirelly. What do you guys think?

edit- just found this- http://www.wattora.com/mods/twolow/ Of course since we don't have a manual shifter ours is slightly different, but the same theory applies.
2LO with Locker...??!? Donno, but it sounds cool! (just for the heck of it of course!) :D

[tacosupreme]

"So we have our own grey wire mod now? Sweet. I need a detailed write-up with pics please! "

Click on my signature and go to page 2. I stole Dick's schematics for illustration because the only thing I can draw is a govenment paycheck, thanks for the help Mr. Foster. Let me know if it is comprehensible, I ain't none to good at writin' stuff.

[tacosupreme]

Has anyone else done it yet? Just curious what kind of switch mounting options you guys have came up with. I just got a little carried away with the dremel, damn that is some soft plastic. It'll buff out.

[rogersja63]

Has anyone else done it yet? Just curious what kind of switch mounting options you guys have came up with. I just got a little carried away with the dremel, damn that is some soft plastic. It'll buff out.

I'm going with the OEM switch and DPDT relay method soon as it quit's raining here, I'll let you know how it goes.

[my05taco]

i cant wait to see if this will work with the stock button... so when is the step by step for us that are not so electically inclined? lol cheep mods rule

[rlin0997]

im picking up a tacoma in a week or two and this is great! i really don't want to hack up my dash the relay method is the way to go. im retarded when it comes to wiring, will the tacoma Gods share this wealth of knowledge in the form of a step by step guide? thanks in advance!

[Comattack]

im picking up a tacoma in a week or two and this is great! i really don't want to hack up my dash the relay method is the way to go. im retarded when it comes to wiring, will the tacoma Gods share this wealth of knowledge in the form of a step by step guide? thanks in advance!
You hear that tacosupreme? We're "the Tacoma gods" now.... *LOL*

Anyhow...as I posted over at Tundra Solutions, I'm working on a step by step... May take a little while, but I'm working on it. (Depends on how busy work is today.)

I'll keep you posted. :cool:

[Gargoyle]

Good to hear it COMAttack. I would do one myself, but the time to get it done is not in my schedule... I have an ARB bumper on order and I just got done with brakes and shocks on my 95 4Runner, so I have gotten my fill of working on the trucks for a week or two. :)

[rogersja63]

i cant wait to see if this will work with the stock button... so when is the step by step for us that are not so electically inclined? lol cheep mods rule

Happy to report I just came in the house from doing this mod (using DPDT relay and OEM switch method) and it works as advertised. One key point is that all the wires you need are cut at the connector as described except for the violet one, it is tapped instead. I used a 12v/20a relay but as small as those wires are I'm sure a 10a would've been fine. One question though, did the indicator light blink (while transitioning from locked to unlocked) before the mod? I don't remember and now it's just on or off depending on if the rear is locked or not. Thanks again for figuring this out.

[tacosupreme]

if it's blinkin' it's thinkin'. It isn't locked untill the light goes solid.

[rogersja63]

if it's blinkin' it's thinkin'. It isn't locked untill the light goes solid.

So since we're by-passing it's brain I guess the light's only on or off. ;) Interesting, but that is how it's working (no flashing now, either on or off). :D

[tacosupreme]

it still works the same way as before. if the limit switch isn't tripped (and the locker doesn't engage) the light will blink. Just the same as before, roll forward or backward an inch and it will lock, I just noticed after using mine a few times it slips in way easier now.

[rogersja63]

it still works the same way as before. if the limit switch isn't tripped (and the locker doesn't engage) the light will blink. Just the same as before, roll forward or backward an inch and it will lock, I just noticed after using mine a few times it slips in way easier now.

I agree it locks and unlocks a lot easier now but mine doesn't blink at all. With the engine off I can even hear the locker motor turning to lock and unlock, then while driving around you can definitely hear the click when locking/unlocking and feel the wheels tied together in turns. So I don't know, maybe it's a result of using a relay instead of a switch or the fact that it locks and unlocks so quickly but I have no blinking mode. :confused: This is fine with me though because it feels very positive and immediate the way it works now, and like I said the light is lit when locked and unlit when unlocked. :kewl:

[tacosupreme]

here is the link to the writeup comattack did over at ts. It's way better than mine and uses the factory switch. http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/attachments/tacoma/11840-locker-mod-2005-locker-mod-write-up.pdf?d=1142462762

[Marc M]

here is the link to the writeup comattack did over at ts. It's way better than mine and uses the factory switch. http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/attachments/tacoma/11840-locker-mod-2005-locker-mod-write-up.pdf?d=1142462762


Apparently you have to be a PAYING member to see the attachment..........

Marc

[Comattack]

Apparently you have to be a PAYING member to see the attachment..........

Marc
No you don't. That's my bad!

I made some edits and re-uploaded it, so the file ID changed.
Try this one!

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/attachments/tacoma/11844-locker-mod-2005-locker-mod-write-up.pdf?d=1142535319

[rogersja63]

Apparently you have to be a PAYING member to see the attachment..........

Marc

Try this link (http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/attachments/tacoma/11844-locker-mod-2005-locker-mod-write-up.pdf?d=1142535319)- Edit: Nope that doesn't work either unless you subscribe and the attachment is to big to post here, unless I don't know how to do it. It would be nice if the admin's could put this one in the tech section.

and this is to tacosupreme's original write-up (http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2109419) on page 2.

[rogersja63]

No you don't. That's my bad!

I made some edits and re-uploaded it, so the file ID changed.
Try this one!

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/attachments/tacoma/11844-locker-mod-2005-locker-mod-write-up.pdf?d=1142535319

He's right, I just cleared all my cookies and can't open it unless I log-in. :mad:

[flataco]

You don't have to be a paying memeber to see it but you do have to at least register at Tundra Solutins and be logged in.

[iaintdumb2]

No you don't. That's my bad!

I made some edits and re-uploaded it, so the file ID changed.
Try this one!

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/attachments/tacoma/11844-locker-mod-2005-locker-mod-write-up.pdf?d=1142535319


Great write-up! Thanks for taking the time to make it, I'll be doing this soon as I finish with finals.. Along with all my other goodies :saw: :D

Megan

[rogersja63]

You don't have to be a paying memeber to see it but you do have to at least register at Tundra Solutins and be logged in.

:xozzy: Cool!

[siambxr]

So like anyone want to mod mines for a case of your fave imported beer ? :D

[rogersja63]

So like anyone want to mod mines for a case of your fave imported beer ? :D

Sure, I'll help ya' this weekend if you're around Fresno and want to stop by.

[siambxr]

Sure, I'll help ya' this weekend if you're around Fresno and want to stop by.


can't this weekend, 1rst supermoto race in Stockton I start Saturday all the way to Sunday.. :cool: be soo beat after that.. I'll PM you for more info...

[flataco]

Totally off topic saimbxr but what kind of SM do you ride??

[siambxr]

Totally off topic saimbxr but what kind of SM do you ride??

been rcing the 2004 SM450R husqvarna and still going strong so giving it another race season, but have a 2006 SM450R for a back-up bike which is much faster. :cool:

[robothump]

No one has come up with another way yet, and some pretty smart people have been racking their brain over this one for some time. If you want your locker to work in 2hi and 4hi this is the only way to go, for now anyway.

So you guys think the locker is strong enough :saw: to be used under high speed? :cool: The warning stickers say only use the locker under speed of 15 mph. When would I want locker at hi speed? I could see for racing on street maybe. Any input? Sorry I only need it when I am in 4lo and do some technical stuff. Did see why this is so great! Can someone provide some examples so I shut up!

[crawler#976]

I'd avoid using the e-locker on dry asphalt.

Having driven a spooded rear for 45,000 mile, it's really amazed
me how far you can go in 2 high w/ just a rear locker.

For OHV use it's handy to have the option of using the locker in 2 high or 4 high- it will help avoid damage to the trail and tires in situations when low range isn't required.

Driving in snow is another situation when I use the e-locker in 4 high.

Being able to run locked in 4 high is handy in sand and heavy mud.

[Buddhadog]

It's nice to able to lock the rear and disengage the front so that you have a tighter turning radius too. :)

[tacosupreme]

A buddy of mine back home has a pos dodge D-50 with the spiders welded up front and rear, and he's been driving it on aspahult like that for years. I don't know how long the locker would hold up under those conditions, but once you learn how to drive (like not turning sharp, realizing the ass end will bust loose un sharp corners), it's not bad. We all thought the dude in the D-50 would kill himself long ago in that thing. Offtopic, the same guy took some old snowmobile tracks, then welded two rims together with deflated tires and put the tracks on to make poor boy swampers. You can't turn, but it will go through snow deeper than I am tall.

[Marc M]

Not to mention it's going to chew up tires faster if used frequently on the road......

Marc

[rlin0997]

can someone please post (on this site) a step by step write up? this is the best tacoma mod out there.
thanks

[tacosupreme]

It's a pain in the neck to post pics here, so I did the writeup at cardomain. Click on my signature and read the writeup on page two and if you have any questions ask. Last night I tried to do the factory switch with a DPDT relay version of this mod and couldn't get it to work. I know it does, tbrown did it, maybe I have too small of a relay. The only one I could find was 5 amps.

[crawler#976]

2005+ Tacoma Locker Mod

By Kevin Knight (ComAttack)

This Mod will allow you to activate the Rear Differential Lock on TRD Off-Road Tacomas (2005+) in 2HI & 4HI in addition to 4LO. (Similar to the 2004 “Grey Wire Mod”) It also utilizes the ECU to disable ABS & VSC with the locker engaged (standard feature), just as it normally would. This is a pretty straightforward modification that requires no special skills except a minimal understanding of electrical circuits and wiring schematics. You can perform this mod simply be identifying the correct wires and wiring them as instructed. Your typical “DIYer” should be able to handle this without a problem. Some write-ups show you how to use a second switch. This one will show you how to wire up your OEM Locker switch to keep things factory looking…

*DISCLAIMER: I take no responsibly for any damage, malfunction, or misfortune that occurs as a result of this modification. These instructions are provided simply as a GUIDE to assist you. You assume all responsibility and risk to yourself and your vehicle in performing this mod. If you are not qualified to work on your vehicle, please have it done by a professional.*

Ok, now that that’s out of the way. Let’s get started…

Here is what you will need:

(1) 10A DPDT Relay (double pole, double throw) (20A would be better, but 10A will probably work fine), female Spade Crimp connectors (a dozen will be plenty, and leaves room for some error)
(2) Wire Tap connectors, typical hand tools (wire cutters, crimper, screwdriver, etc) Optional supplies, Depending on where/how you want to install the relay:
Extra wire Heat shrink, solder, Electrical tape

First, an Explanation about the DPDT Relay.

A DPDT relay is a switch that has two inputs (poles) and two outputs (throw) for each input. Basically 2 in & 4 out (or 4 in & 2 out, depending on how you look at it). A relay requires electrical current to pass through a magnetic coil to flip the switch. The type of relay we need will have an “off” position when no current is applied and an “on” position when current is applied. DO NOT get a “Latching” DPDT relay. A latching relay is one that requires current to flip the switch, and then requires the current to be REVERSED to switch it back. This type will not work with the OEM Tacoma switch. There are also many types of configurations for the same type of switch. This simply means that the contacts may be in a different position than the diagrams used here. You can figure out what each contact is by looking at the diagram on the switch or an illustration that came with it.

Here is a sample of some different configurations:

If you choose a switch with a slightly different configuration, for sake of illustration, I’ve labeled the Relay contacts in the diagram above. The “poles” are A & B. The “throws” are A1, A2, B1, & B2 and correspond to the accompanying pole. For reference, in the default “off” position, A & A1 have continuity, and B & B1 have continuity (A2 & B2 have none). The coil contacts are generally turned a different direction for ease of identification. If you check the resistance with an Ohm meter, it should read a couple hundred ohms. The other contacts will have very little if any resistance.

How you mount the relay is up to you. You can let it hang (not recommended...wires may come loose). Or you can just tape it to the ECU or wiring harness. Whatever works.

Now get out the tools and let’s get started!!!

You will find the 4WD ECU on the passenger side behind the glove box. Remove the glove box and 10mm bolt on the latch. Then remove the black plastic cover held in by latch bolt. Once you have access to it, identify the connections you will modify in the picture below. You will need to cut 5 wires from the harness. One you will leave intact, but you need to tap it for power. I have labeled each of them in the picture for easy recognition. Make sure the ignition is in the OFF position and the locker is DISENGAGED before starting.

• Begin by carefully cutting back (or unwrapping) the electrical tape around the wire. You will need to give yourself several inches to make the work easier. The
more the better. You can always re-tape the wires if needed. (Removing the ECU is optional).

• CUT the ‘Lt. Blue’ & ‘Lt Green’ wires and put a spade connector on the ends. These are the leads to the actuator motor. ‘Lt. Blue’ goes to “Pole A” and ‘Lt
Green’ goes to “Pole B.”

• CUT the ‘Pink’ & ‘Lt GN/Black’ wires. These go to the limit switch, and will activate/deactivate the motor to engage or disengage the locker. Attach spade connectors. ‘Pink’ goes to A2 & ‘Lt GN/Black’ goes to B1.

• TAP the ‘Violet’ wire. DO NOT CUT IT!! This supplies power to the ECU and also the actuator motor. It is adequately fused, so we will continue to use it forour new circuit. You will need to attach TWO wires to this power lead. I suggest making/soldering a small Y-cable. Insulate it with heat shrink tubing. Using the tap connector, tap the ‘Violet’ wire with one lead from your Y-cable. Or you can use 2 wire taps and tap the ‘Violet’ wire twice. Attach a spade connector to the other two ends and connect them to A1 & B2.

• Cut the ‘Red/Black’ wire. This is for your OEM switch. (The wire is hidden behind the ‘Wht/Blk’ wire in the picture.) Attach a spade connector, and connect it to one end of the coil contacts. It doesn’t matter which.

• To the other coil contact, attach a wire with a spade connector and run the wire to any ground point. You can simply tap into the ‘Wht/Blk’ wire on the ECU if you like.

• Verify ALL connections are in the proper location. Double check everything! Tape the relay to the ECU or wire harness to make sure it won’t bounce around. If you want to relocate the relay somewhere else, you can lengthen each wire you cut by splicing in another wire to each, and mount it elsewhere.

YOUR DONE!!

Put everything back together. Lock up that differential and go have some fun!
__________________

[rlin0997]

thanks guys! :cool:

[ski05]

I can't get the link neither. but I did find an easy fog light mod on the link.

[ski05]

Nice! In your article, you refered to some pictures??? I can't see them.

[tacosupreme]

Read the whole thread, and either register at TS for free, or read my half ass writeup by clicking my sig.

[fifthcircle]

Read the whole thread, and either register at TS for free, or read my half ass writeup by clicking my sig.


I would reccomend registering at TS. The copy/paste above does not do the write-up justice. The original with all the pics is wicked good and stuff. :)

[ski05]

Sorry I am new at this site. What site is TS

[tbrown]

Sorry I am new at this site. What site is TS
Tundra Solutions. It's a website.
Here's a link.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/

[ski05]

Thanks, I should have known that, I believe I have seen that here before.

[Comattack]

Sorry for all the difficulty... I'll try to see if I can post my write-up here tomorrow. The PDF is at work, so I'll have to do it later.
(besides, it's WAY past bedtime!)


I take cash or credit...... Just Kidding! :D




Anyway, I'll find someway to make it available to you, soon! :cool:

[Comattack]

Here's the write-up i posted over at TundraSolutions (TS).

Man this was a MAJOR PITA to convert, resize, host and all that S***!
Hosting was giving me all kinds of problems... I sure hope you guys are grateful! j/k :cool:

Two things I should mention...
First, You must use a DC relay (direct current). An AC relay will NOT work.
Second, once you cut the wires, you will connect to the wires on the Harness side, NOT the wires going into the ECU. You are essentially disconnecting from the ECU completely and wiring up a new controller for it.

I had to split the pages into chunks to keep it from being distorted when I uploaded it. Pictures are still pretty large, so they are plenty readable.
Let me know if you have any questions.

Page 1a (http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a45/SouperSport/Toyota%20Electrical/2005LockerModWrite-up_Page_1a.png)
Page 1b (http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a45/SouperSport/Toyota%20Electrical/2005LockerModWrite-up_Page_1b.png)
Page 2a (http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a45/SouperSport/Toyota%20Electrical/2005LockerModWrite-up_Page_2a.png)
Page 2b (http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a45/SouperSport/Toyota%20Electrical/2005LockerModWrite-up_Page_2b.png)
Page 3 (http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a45/SouperSport/Toyota%20Electrical/2005LockerModWrite-up_Page_3.png)

[iaintdumb2]

Has anyone else done this with success? I'm mechanically and electrically inclined, so I'm not a complete idiot.. But my truck is now stuck in 4lo and the diff lock won't turn off. Well, the indicicator lamps in the dash won't at least, and now my ABS light is on. I've even wired everything back to how they originally were, but everything is stuck on. I've even pulled the 4wd fuse and disconnected my battery to reset everything, but I can't get the lights to turn off (without the relay connected). Any help is appreciated..

Megan

[Comattack]

2 things come to mind...
Did you check the fuse when you pulled it to make sure it wasn't blown?

Second,
You may have the relay wired correctly to engage the locker, but not to disengage. Although I donno how you'd do that...

ABS is automatically disabled when the locker is engaged so that is probably why it came on...

You shouldn't have to mess with the 4WD switch at all to get it working. So why in 4LO?
If the locker engaged succesfully with the relay/switch (indicated by all the lights.. VSC, ABS, locker), then you might want to double check the other circuit. As I mentioned in the write-up... if you have a "latching" relay, you need to REVERSE the power to the coil to get the relay to switch off... which is the relay you don't want, but give it a try. It shouldn't hurt anything. Just keep an eye on that fuse, so you know if you short anything or not.

Could be several things... Take a look at those and let us know what you find.

[rogersja63]

Has anyone else done this with success? I'm mechanically and electrically inclined, so I'm not a complete idiot.. But my truck is now stuck in 4lo and the diff lock won't turn off. Well, the indicicator lamps in the dash won't at least, and now my ABS light is on. I've even wired everything back to how they originally were, but everything is stuck on. I've even pulled the 4wd fuse and disconnected my battery to reset everything, but I can't get the lights to turn off (without the relay connected). Any help is appreciated..

Megan

It may not lock/unlock or go in and out of 4wd unless you are driving around, turning the steering wheel, etc. :2cents: I don't know how much you've wheeled the new truck but mine was reluctant to operate when it was brand new. Had to break it in a little. :D

[iaintdumb2]

double edit...

So I found my problem. I sat down to check if my relay was ok (checked continuity between posts, etc) and since it has a clear casing, I realized that I had mixed up the pins. So it's all my fault, haha.. I blame it on all the late night spray painting in my garage :p

Megan

[iaintdumb2]

Another update.. My wiring is all correct, and for sure this time. However, my 4wd fuse is still burning up. I found that the green and violet wires always have continuity, straight from the harness. When I unplug the harness from the ecu, they don't, so somewhere in the ecu they're connected. From my understanding of all the schematics and diagrams that I've seen, they shouldn't. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. I can't find anything else wrong with how I've wired it. I've managed to turn this simple mod into a nightmare. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Megan

[tacosupreme]

Sounds like you are hooked up to the ECU side of the wires to me. You need to be hooked up to the part of the wires that run up into the black tape, not the ones that go to the connector. And the violet wire is Positive. If you are grounding it out, it will overload the fuse. The good news is you aren't the first person to do one this way, and the ECU (black box thingy) seems to survive repeated arc welding experiments. Hope this helps, PM me if it doesn't.

[jungleman]

So.........this is where the off roaders hang out :cool:

I just wanted to personally thank everyone who worked on this mod I did the locker and 4lo mods last Friday and gave them a thorough workout.
Both work great

Thanks tacosupreme for helping me with the 4lo thing, I shared it with the guys at toyotanation and got pretty much the same response, a couple of way cools and several no way in hell would I do that

:xrocker: THANK YOU EVERYONE:xrocker:

[mandzach]

I bought my truck like 10 days ago -07' TRD DC 4x4 and really want to try this mod.

07' is the same as 06' I am assuming - All wire colors should be the same.

Just wanted to check with you guys to see if this is the most current "locker mod" to date. Any updates or changes worth mentioning?
I searched the crap out of this and think this thread and links are what I am looking for.


Thanks-

[rogersja63]

I bought my truck like 10 days ago -07' TRD DC 4x4 and really want to try this mod.

07' is the same as 06' I am assuming - All wire colors should be the same.

Just wanted to check with you guys to see if this is the most current "locker mod" to date. Any updates or changes worth mentioning?
I searched the crap out of this and think this thread and links are what I am looking for.


Thanks-

Yep, the same.

[Comattack]

I bought my truck like 10 days ago -07' TRD DC 4x4 and really want to try this mod.

07' is the same as 06' I am assuming - All wire colors should be the same.

Just wanted to check with you guys to see if this is the most current "locker mod" to date. Any updates or changes worth mentioning?
I searched the crap out of this and think this thread and links are what I am looking for.


Thanks-
Yep, the same.
For a sec, I thought you meant you were in the same situation as mandzach.
But I get it...

This mod was for 05+ Tacomas; so yes, it will work for anything after '05 as well!! Good luck!

[wicked2007]

Thanks for all of the information. I am going to try this mod out. I just got done making a little harness so the install will be easy. I followed Kevin Knights write up...

Full Harness
http://www.southernlogistics.com/tacoma/harness.bmp

DPDT Relay and Socket
http://www.southernlogistics.com/tacoma/socket.bmp

I will let you know the results once I install this.

[mandzach]

Thanks for all of the information. I am going to try this mod out. I just got done making a little harness so the install will be easy. I followed Kevin Knights write up...

Full Harness
http://www.southernlogistics.com/tacoma/harness.bmp

DPDT Relay and Socket
http://www.southernlogistics.com/tacoma/socket.bmp

I will let you know the results once I install this.


I missed that write up I think -
Do you have a link or just the part numbers for your parts?

[wicked2007]

I missed that write up I think -
Do you have a link or just the part numbers for your parts?

Well I just used his wiring diagram, its linked off of one of the lages in this thread - I was just looking for a little more of a clean install so I could replace the relay if necessary.

[wicked2007]

Just a quick update - finished this mod today and it works great

Locker on with ABS off in H2, H4 and L4

Thanks for the information to get this done!

[mandzach]

edit -found it :o

[mandzach]

Finished the mod - locks in quick but not all the time instantly - seems like the truck still needs to be traveling slowly to get it to lock in, is this normal.

[wicked2007]

Finished the mod - locks in quick but not all the time instantly - seems like the truck still needs to be traveling slowly to get it to lock in, is this normal.

Mine reacts similar to the way you describe. Sometimes it goes right on then others it takes a bit of slow driving. I noticed turning the wheel a bit helps.

[ah64id]

Finished the mod - locks in quick but not all the time instantly - seems like the truck still needs to be traveling slowly to get it to lock in, is this normal.

Yep, there are splines that need to mesh to get it to lock, if they arent lined up it wont lock. One reason for the 5mph limit on locking, if your going faster it can mess up the locker..

[mandzach]

John do you have the locker mod done to your truck?

[ah64id]

John do you have the locker mod done to your truck?

Nope, I dont have the truck yet. Slated for production in Feb.. So I should have the mod done sometime in march.

[obxfishn]

Im obviously not the sharpest mo-chanic, however my 06 has a "Diff Lock" button. Does this fall along the same lines as a rear locker? What is the purpose of this button?

[MERCER FABRICATION]

yep thats what theyre talking about. but it only can engage in 4lo. if you do the mod(called grey wire mod) in pre 05 modles, you can engage it in 4hi and 2wd if you want. its a must

[TRDForMe]

Ok, so i think I am ready to attempt this, cant be any harder than the headlight mod right? Anyway, I have looked over the diagrams and everything else but I just want to make sure that I get everything right the first time. So let me ask one or two of you for some help. There seems to be only one "grey area" for me due to my lack of understanding all terminology. the directions say, quote

TAP the ‘Violet’ wire. DO NOT CUT IT!! This supplies power to the ECU and also the actuator motor. It is adequately fused, so we will continue to use it forour new circuit. You will need to attach TWO wires to this power lead. I suggest making/soldering a small Y-cable. Insulate it with heat shrink tubing. Using the tap connector, tap the ‘Violet’ wire with one lead from your Y-cable. Or you can use 2 wire taps and tap the ‘Violet’ wire twice. Attach a spade connector to the other two ends and connect them to A1 & B2.

So basically, I am just turning this one wire into two individual wires, correct. Just curious, what size wire is this, I havent torn it apart yet so I figured I would get everything ahead of time. Also, VIP should have this relay right? Thanks for all help. Dont want to sound like a noob just want to do it right the first time.


Oh and one more thing, what to do with the wire ends coming out of the connector after cutting them.....tape them.... or is there no need to do so???

[tacosupreme]

It's a good idea to cap off the dangling wires from the ECU. The ECU still needs power from the violet wire, and so do those two pins.

[obxfishn]

Does anyone know where to get one of these relays. Website and part numbers would be greatly appreciated :o

[K.V.]

Does anyone know where to get one of these relays. Website and part numbers would be greatly appreciated :o

Try this thread*: http://tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46394&highlight=Locker+Mod

I have the same '06 Tacoma and hooked it up in about 45'.

*I posted info on part numbers and additional install info near the bottom of the thread.

[mandzach]

From Tacosupreme of TS: "The numbers/pins for RadioShack Relay# 275-218.
Remember the wires on the ECU side of the cut should be dangling, except for the violet wire that just gets tapped. The violet wire is the power wire for the 4WD ECU, so juice still needs to flow through it."


‘Lt Blue’ = 6
‘Lt Green’ = 5
‘Pink’ = 4
‘Lt GN/Black’ = 1
‘Violet’ (a.k.a purple) = 2 & 3
‘Red/Black’ = 7
‘Wht/Blk’ = 8

I printed this and the PDF instructions and it came out perfect.

Use he Radio Shack relay mentioned above and you will be fine.

[TRDForMe]

I need to thank you for posting that part number. I have been to Auto Zone, VIP, and one other local parts store and no one had anything like this. They even let me go through their inventories out back and I came up with nothing. Are the relay posts numbered on the radio shack relay, Just wondering if this is what you meant, each of these colors corresponds with the number??

Lt Blue’ = 6
‘Lt Green’ = 5
‘Pink’ = 4
‘Lt GN/Black’ = 1
‘Violet’ (a.k.a purple) = 2 & 3
‘Red/Black’ = 7
‘Wht/Blk’ = 8

[tacosupreme]

radio shack part (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049722&cp) Just click and order, or drive to your nearest radio shack.

[TRDForMe]

Thanks a million man, I will go to radioshack tomorrow and get one, I already checked online, they have one in stock...sweeet.

[obxfishn]

Locker Mod a SUCCESS!!!!!! Cudos to the genius that came up with this mod. What a world of difference it made. THANK YOU TTORA! :D

[TRDForMe]

Congrats on the install, I just picked up the relay at Radioshack today, but got home to late to start the mod...Its a toss up, do the mod or watch the patriots, I think Ill watch the patriots and try the mod during the week. thanks again everyone.

[TRDForMe]

Ok what have I done. I prepared, I went slow and I still seemed to screw up. I am on the harness side of the wire cluster. I could hear the relay at first but now it only clicks when I hit the diff button. aThis isnt the problem, My truck started sputtering so I immediately shut it off, now my four wheel drive light wont even come on when I turn the knob with the key on. I honestly dont have a clue what I did wrong but hope I didnt screw up my truck!! Help please, I need my vehicle tomorrow. Thanks, Jason

[TRDForMe]

Ok breathe, I figured it out, no blown fuses, everything looks ok. What happened was where i tapped into the black and white wire from the ECu, the actual black and white wire disconnected, it actually came apart, not sure if maybe I pulled on it by accident and the metal connector ate through it, dont know, but what i do know is that I wasnt grounded and therefore everything was pretty much screwed, I taped up the connector real good this time and now Ieverything seems to work fine. In the garage. I have to go put it all back together now. I was wondering there for a minute what i was going to say to my toyota tech, I know hime well but I dont think he would have been able to cover up this screw up. Ill go try it out when I get reassembled and let you all know the results. Thanks everyone for this mod, I think it will be great.

[tacosupreme]

that's why you SOLDER ALL CONNECTIONS!

[not2XS]

There is also a downside to soldering connections, particularly in an environment like a 4x4 could be. If humidity gets to the solder, it WILL oxidize, and the oxides formed ARE insulating. Been there, done that! At that point, your best option is to cut away anything that has had solder on it, and replace it. If you solder, make doubly and triply sure your stuff is absolutely, indisputedly and undeniably waterproofed.

And if you are thinking of your radio, a blob of solder between a pad and a single-core component lead will oxidize more slowly than solder that has wicked into a multi-core wire (and hopefully a quality PCB will have been conformally coated too).

[ah64id]

after you solder put shrinktube on it, the marine kind with the goo :D

[obxfishn]

after you solder put shrinktube on it, the marine kind with the goo :D

ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT LIQUID ELECTRICAL TAPE?

[ah64id]

ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT LIQUID ELECTRICAL TAPE?

nope..shrink tube looks like a straw, comes in different color and diameters. You put in on before you close the connection (you must cut the original wire to provide an end), the ones you solder in place you slide the tube over the connection and apply some heat (heat gun usually), the shrink tube shrinks over the connection, and when you use the marine type it fills any voids with a goo and makes the connection waterproof.

[cperc]

Just wanted to add into the discussion I did the Locker Mod in about 30 minutes and no problems so far but my locker seems to take a loooooong time to engage :dunno: The truck only has about 1400 miles on it though so that could be my problem I hope!! :D

[wicked2007]

Just wanted to add into the discussion I did the Locker Mod in about 30 minutes and no problems so far but my locker seems to take a loooooong time to engage :dunno: The truck only has about 1400 miles on it though so that could be my problem I hope!! :D

Probably needs to be broken in a bit. Try turing the steering wheel slightly when engaging at slow speed. After the locker mod, mine also will go in in neutral at 0 mph

[cperc]

Yeah just in messing with the locker more often it is going in and out a lot quicker now. Probably just needed to be broken in some more. Thanks Guys.

[cperc]

One thing I have noticed is when i turn the locker off now sometimes my ABS light stays on???? Has anyone else had this happen to them? The locker itself works fine it's just sometimes when I turn it off the ABS light stays on :dunno: :dunno: The only thing that kind of worries me about it is driving around town with no ABS would suck. Any suggestions?

Chris

[wicked2007]

One thing I have noticed is when i turn the locker off now sometimes my ABS light stays on???? Has anyone else had this happen to them? The locker itself works fine it's just sometimes when I turn it off the ABS light stays on :dunno: :dunno: The only thing that kind of worries me about it is driving around town with no ABS would suck. Any suggestions?

Chris

Never experienced this - i would check your connections and make sure nothing is loose. good luck.

[05whitey]

Did the mod, all wires are where they should be, my 4wd still works in high and low, locker works in low, but there is no locker or 4wd lights on the dash. 4lo lights up but thats it, the locker works in 4lo only. My 4wd fuse is good and i have triple checked the connections. everything is the way it has been dispayed in previous threads. I have the The wires off of the ecu are dangling. I have tried the old turn the tires, forward and reverse... Maybe i have a bad relay??? I am pretty good with wiring and now am stumped. any thoughts??...
Lt Blue’ = 6
‘Lt Green’ = 5
‘Pink’ = 4
‘Lt GN/Black’ = 1
‘Violet’ (a.k.a purple) = 2 & 3
‘Red/Black’ = 7
‘Wht/Blk’ = 8
Part # 275-218

[cperc]

Yeah I don't know what's wrong because the locker is engaging and disengaging fine it is just the ABS light stays on afterward sometimes :dunno:

[05whitey]

the locker only works when I am in 4lo, even with the relay installed. The only lights I get on the dash is 4lo, no locker lights, no 4hi lights... everything works as factory, but no dummy lights...?
no abs lights come on at all, even in 4lo with the locker engaged

2005 4WD TRD Offroad 6 speed

[wicked2007]

the locker only works when I am in 4lo, even with the relay installed. The only lights I get on the dash is 4lo, no locker lights, no 4hi lights... everything works as factory, but no dummy lights...?
no abs lights come on at all, even in 4lo with the locker engaged

2005 4WD TRD Offroad 6 speed

I would try the instrustions below to double check or the link here (I used that linked PDF to do mine):

HERE (http://www.southernlogistics.com/tacoma/locker/05_up_locker_mod.pdf)

Now get out the tools and let’s get started!!!

You will find the 4WD ECU on the passenger side behind the glove box. Remove the glove box and 10mm bolt on the latch. Then remove the black plastic cover held in by latch bolt. Once you have access to it, identify the connections you will modify in the picture below. You will need to cut 5 wires from the harness. One you will leave intact, but you need to tap it for power. I have labeled each of them in the picture for easy recognition. Make sure the ignition is in the OFF position and the locker is DISENGAGED before starting.

• Begin by carefully cutting back (or unwrapping) the electrical tape around the wire. You will need to give yourself several inches to make the work easier. The
more the better. You can always re-tape the wires if needed. (Removing the ECU is optional).

• CUT the ‘Lt. Blue’ & ‘Lt Green’ wires and put a spade connector on the ends. These are the leads to the actuator motor. ‘Lt. Blue’ goes to “Pole A” and ‘Lt
Green’ goes to “Pole B.”

• CUT the ‘Pink’ & ‘Lt GN/Black’ wires. These go to the limit switch, and will activate/deactivate the motor to engage or disengage the locker. Attach spade connectors. ‘Pink’ goes to A2 & ‘Lt GN/Black’ goes to B1.

• TAP the ‘Violet’ wire. DO NOT CUT IT!! This supplies power to the ECU and also the actuator motor. It is adequately fused, so we will continue to use it forour new circuit. You will need to attach TWO wires to this power lead. I suggest making/soldering a small Y-cable. Insulate it with heat shrink tubing. Using the tap connector, tap the ‘Violet’ wire with one lead from your Y-cable. Or you can use 2 wire taps and tap the ‘Violet’ wire twice. Attach a spade connector to the other two ends and connect them to A1 & B2.

• Cut the ‘Red/Black’ wire. This is for your OEM switch. (The wire is hidden behind the ‘Wht/Blk’ wire in the picture.) Attach a spade connector, and connect it to one end of the coil contacts. It doesn’t matter which.

• To the other coil contact, attach a wire with a spade connector and run the wire to any ground point. You can simply tap into the ‘Wht/Blk’ wire on the ECU if you like.

• Verify ALL connections are in the proper location. Double check everything! Tape the relay to the ECU or wire harness to make sure it won’t bounce around. If you want to relocate the relay somewhere else, you can lengthen each wire you cut by splicing in another wire to each, and mount it elsewhere.

YOUR DONE!!

[05whitey]

yeah, I have aleady seen the instructions a few times...that doesnt solve my problem. The dpdt relay is installed according to all the info on this board. my truck funtions as stock but without dummy lights and the locker only works in 4lo. All the wires are hooked up as the diagram shows in post #147

[TRDForMe]

Make sure your ground (black/white wire) still has a good connection from the harness to the ECU. This doesnt sound like your problem, but trust me, my truck was doing some pretty funky stuff,. Lights working, not working, etc... I think sometimes in my case it had connection, and then due to vibration it would lose it, I dunno, just a thought.

[05whitey]

Ok, I am a dumbass, i connected the wrong "pink" wire - the one that is a little darker "pink". two minute fix and everything works great - thanks for the help

[obxfishn]

"My 4wd fuse is good and i have triple checked the connections"??????

[brinner]

just did the mod on my 05, glad my windows were up when i tested it, cause i pretty much yelled "fu*k yeah!" when it worked and im sure just about everyone in my apt complex was still sleeping. I like to get my passengers involved in the off-road fun so i used the block that mirrors the 4wd selector knob on the other side of the radio to mount what i labled the "GWR" toggle switch.(its still within reach from the drivers seat very easily) It works like a charm and took me about 3 hours from when i walked out to the truck to road test (in the parking lot). So far everything works well.

[ah64id]

GWR???

I am still undecided on if I will do it to mine, depends on how well A-TRAC works... I use the ARB in my 92 all the time in 2hi and 4hi, but the ARB is also much faster to engauge... so if TRAC/A-TRAC works well I will probally leave it OEM...

[mojavegold]

GWR???

I am still undecided on if I will do it to mine, depends on how well A-TRAC works... I use the ARB in my 92 all the time in 2hi and 4hi, but the ARB is also much faster to engauge... so if TRAC/A-TRAC works well I will probally leave it OEM...

I did the mod on mine and never looked back. That baby kicks ass in 4HI. Plus it is really easy to reverse the mod if you have warranty related rear end issues. Just my:2cents:

[tacosupreme]

GWR???

I am still undecided on if I will do it to mine, depends on how well A-TRAC works... I use the ARB in my 92 all the time in 2hi and 4hi, but the ARB is also much faster to engauge... so if TRAC/A-TRAC works well I will probally leave it OEM...

TRAC cuts the throttle if you are in greasy mud or slick conditions, killing all fun and entertainment, plus it can't compare to a locker when serious wheelin'. It's just glitchy, and not smooth at all. Locker mod all the way man.

[ah64id]

TRAC cuts the throttle if you are in greasy mud or slick conditions, killing all fun and entertainment, plus it can't compare to a locker when serious wheelin'. It's just glitchy, and not smooth at all. Locker mod all the way man.

Yeah TRAC does cut throttle in 2wd, A-TRAC cuts thortle in 4hi, but not 4lo... either way I can shut down the TRAC setup with a push of a button... Who knows, I may end up with the mod.. as I loved the ability in my 92 with the ARB.. who knows???

[brinner]

GWR (grey wire mod) i did that cause i still think it should be refered to the "grey wire mod". (even though its the blue, green and black, pink and the green wire attached to DPDT switch mod)

[Mouretsu]

I have read all of the posts in this thread and I'm not sure if I missed something or it was never asked. I just bought a 2006 4x4 base model Taco. If I want to add a locking rear diff, in addition to all of the computer and wiring stuff mentioned here, I would also have to get a new rear diff right? Maybe from a junk yard?

[ssmathis]

You're better off getting an ARB locker for the rear. It will be very expensive to retrofit the e-locker.

[Mouretsu]

Thank you. I don't want to clog this thread up with a tangent thought so could someone point me to the best thread for researching aftermarket lockers? Thanks.

[tacosupreme]

check http://car-part.com/
There is a locking rear out of an '05 for $775. The wiring would be easy, but if you have the 4 banger then you would have to change gears too. Like mathis said go ARB. Check the sponsors link up top-

[Mouretsu]

You're better off getting an ARB locker for the rear. It will be very expensive to retrofit the e-locker.

What do you consider expensive? I have checked around Tucson and to get an ARB locker for the rear only is around $800 plus a compressor $200 and an off-the-cuff estimate of $1,500 + for install.

[dix69]

I sure have enjoyed reading all the posts for this thread! im definatley doing this mod, does automatic trans, differ from manual is this configuration? does the sport package cause any probs. or are all 05+ tacos wiring config the same? or i guess what im trying to say is no matter what 05+ taco you have, will this wiring work for all of them?

[SilverSeven]

so why did toyota not just design it this way from the start?

[tacosupreme]

I sure have enjoyed reading all the posts for this thread! im definatley doing this mod, does automatic trans, differ from manual is this configuration? does the sport package cause any probs. or are all 05+ tacos wiring config the same? or i guess what im trying to say is no matter what 05+ taco you have, will this wiring work for all of them?

The sport package doesn't have a locker. It has a mechanical Limited slip differential so this mod does not apply to you.

[tacosupreme]

so why did toyota not just design it this way from the start?
Safety. If your wife accidentally locked the rear end on the highway and took a sharp corner she would lose control and you would sue the shit out of toyota.

[SilverSeven]

anyone in the seattle area know how to do this? Im afraid of messing with shit like that since i am a retard for the most part... I am good at buying and drinking beer tho, and would be happy to indulge with the electrician who mods my locker :D

[dix69]

The sport package doesn't have a locker. It has a mechanical Limited slip differential so this mod does not apply to you.


Well Damn!!!! I was really looking foward to doing this mod today but i guess my plans are blown! So im just screwd or should I get a locker? If so what type and if i were to do this mod, wonder what it would do to my yota!

[tacosupreme]

Well Damn!!!! I was really looking foward to doing this mod today but i guess my plans are blown! So im just screwd or should I get a locker? If so what type and if i were to do this mod, wonder what it would do to my yota!
You could get an ARB locker. This mod wouldn't work at all, because there is no locker. There is no wires to mod on the sport.

[dix69]

You could get an ARB locker. This mod wouldn't work at all, because there is no locker. There is no wires to mod on the sport.


Thanx bro guess i will just have to get a locker one day, ARB sounds good!

[braun88]

hey man i thank you for the wright up on the locker mod but unfortunatly its not goin so well for me... i did just as the write up said but the locker will not engage. when i press the button i can hear it click in the glove box but no locker kicks on. it still goes into 4hi and 4lo no problems though. only resaon i say that is i seen some people have problems gettin it outa 4lo after doin the mod....lol. also there is no blinking locker light at all. the only time it comes on is when you first fire up the truck. did u ever run into this problem??

[braun88]

comattack's wright up that is....fyi

[tacosupreme]

Check it again. Take your time and don't rush things and you'll figure out where you screwed up. Sometimes you have to drive slowly in an S pattern to get the locker to engage. The splines have to line up to get in to lock. Plus I just looked at your profile and you're an 11boo, that's your problem right there. Whatever you do don't take a hammer to it.

[braun88]

funny you should mention that because i was just thinking about taking a hammer to it. good thing you were there to let me know thats a bad idea...lol

[braun88]

i went back over it a couple times.... i checked the ground..... i just tapped into the black and white wire wich i dont know shit about electrical but its really tiny wire for a ground. and also theres two pink wires and one brighter than the other but they both look pink and i tried both of them just make sure i didnt do the wrong one but nothings worked so far. if the locker blinking thinking light doesnt even come on then doesnt that mean somethings not wired right or does it even come on with this mod?

[tacosupreme]

Sigh. Ground it to a bolt somewhere, the color of the wire has absolutely nothing to do with polarity. It's the small pink wire, if youlook at the schematic there is a picture of the connector f12 with numbers for the pins. Go off that, there are lots of similar colored wires in there. Also double check the wires on the connector side of the cut are dangling, you plum into the wires that run back to the locker. Again, no hammer involved at all. I'm only fucking with you cause I'm a missile tech and spend 10 hours a day fixing shit grunts break.
Also, no light means no worky. If it blinks, its trying to lock. When its solid its locked.

[braun88]

k ima go do that and ill let ya know if it worked... okie dokie

[tacosupreme]

Roger dodger.

[braun88]

ok is #16 the oem wire cuz if it is i dont know what im doing wrong. ive checked everything and made sure the ground is solid, ate mcdonalds mcchickens to provide my body with energy and its still not working. hmmmm........

[braun88]

oh yea still no blinking thinking locker light either.

[fabjunkie]

Mmmm......McNuggets........

The light won't blink anymore if you are using a relay. It's either on or off. I took mine apart and put it back together at least half a dozen times because of that fucking light, everything was working properly the whole time. Try the S-turns, plus the more you use it, the easier it locks/unlocks.

[braun88]

ok who lives in sacramento and would like a case of beer for making my locker work??....... fabjunkie i tried for like 30 min to get that thing to work doing s turns and backing up and puling forward and all kinds of craziness.i guess ill take it all apart and redue it at less than slower pace... again. maybe im hooking em up to the relay wrong.

[fabjunkie]

Read this thread (http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=89945) if you haven't already. I would un-hook everything and start over if you are unsure. Print out the guide Tacosupreme posted in that thread and follow it. Try it just turning the wheel back and forth going about a 1/4 turn of the steering wheel before you tear it apart.

[braun88]

GREAT SUCCESS!!! ok im still not sure what was wrong proly loose wire or bad connect er something but i took it all apart and started all over again and it worked this time. guess third times a charm huh

[braun88]

quik question when your locked in the rear in 2hi or 4hi is the abs turned off like it was in 4lo with the locker engaged?

[TaCoDuDe06]

Awesome info here! I will make step by step photo instructions to help people out while I do this mod next weekend.

[fabjunkie]

Yes the ABS and whatever else will turn off with the locker on no matter the position of the t-case.

[tacosupreme]

Awesome info here! I will make step by step photo instructions to help people out while I do this mod next weekend.
You should do that. I'm horrible at write-ups.
Good to hear you got it working Braun. You are hands down the most intelligent grunt I've ever met, lol. You should reclass to 94a.

[braun88]

actually im a civillian now... i just ets like three weeks ago. so i guess you could say i did reclass to civillian lol. going to wyotech now for chasis fab

[the_kernel114]

just a quick question,

i have a 07 trd sport and i want to wire a switch into my truck to turn off the abs while im offroading, anyone know if this is possible?

i searched and couldn't find anything beside the atrac/vsc hack, which i don't have.

Thanks.

[TaCoDuDe06]

just a quick question,

i have a 07 trd sport and i want to wire a switch into my truck to turn off the abs while im offroading, anyone know if this is possible?

i searched and couldn't find anything beside the atrac/vsc hack, which i don't have.

Thanks.
Copied it from tacosupreme's write up...

ABS/VSC/TRAC mod
Those of us that live with icy roads in the winter know ABS sucks in snow and ice. If you have ever tried to fishtail on a muddy road in 2HI you know VSC (vehicle stability control) sucks. And if you have ever tried to impress your friends with a nice smoky burn out you know TRAC or traction control sucks, so this mod shuts all that crap off for play time.

If you ground out the blue wire with the yellow stripe (pin 20 on the 4wd ECU) it disables ABS, VSC, and TRAC. I just ran the wire through a 2 pole switch to ground so I can still have the luxury of the soccer mom safety crap on the highway.

[the_kernel114]

does it work on the trucks without the vsc and atrac?

[heirytaco]

Copied it from tacosupreme's write up...

ABS/VSC/TRAC mod
Those of us that live with icy roads in the winter know ABS sucks in snow and ice. If you have ever tried to fishtail on a muddy road in 2HI you know VSC (vehicle stability control) sucks. And if you have ever tried to impress your friends with a nice smoky burn out you know TRAC or traction control sucks, so this mod shuts all that crap off for play time.

If you ground out the blue wire with the yellow stripe (pin 20 on the 4wd ECU) it disables ABS, VSC, and TRAC. I just ran the wire through a 2 pole switch to ground so I can still have the luxury of the soccer mom safety crap on the highway.

i just finished the locker mod. is it ok to ground the abs to the same ground as the locker ? also will there be any dummy lights on ?

[tacosupreme]

i just finished the locker mod. is it ok to ground the abs to the same ground as the locker ? also will there be any dummy lights on ?
No problem using the same ground. When everything is in the normal position you won't get any idiot lights.

[tacosupreme]

does it work on the trucks without the vsc and atrac?

I don't think so, is your abs ecu on the master cylinder or passenger fender?

[the_kernel114]

hmm i will have to check

[KenBing]

Does anyone have pics of where to make the cuts in the wires? I guess I don't understand the ecu side, harness side, truck side talk. And thanks to the seemingly hundreds of people who've contributed to the info for this mod, can't wait to do it next week!