Hi Steer Kits

[crawlrunner]

Who's kit is best ... probably all about the same ... so who's kit is cheapest for '85 stock toy fronts?

Seems like somebody (TrailGear?) was $100 cheaper than the others. Wonder why?

[ATLRoach]

I run the TG kit they are the cheapest at $299.. They are cheaper cause they us cheap TREs and not AISINs like Marlin. As they are also cast like the cheaper marlins. I wouldn't mind having the 6 stud arms and knuckles though.

The Best would be OTT or 4x4 labs billet ones.

[zman2day]

I run the TG kit they are the cheapest at $299.. They are cheaper cause they us cheap TREs and not AISINs like Marlin. As they are also cast like the cheaper marlins. I wouldn't mind having the 6 stud arms and knuckles though.

The Best would be OTT or 4x4 labs billet ones.


Ditto, Real cheap TRE. The ones they sell are aftermarket with zerk fittings for grease instead of the OE AISIN's w/o. Yotaman (Greg) had a new set wobble so bad it made his truck unstreetable home from RR last year. We had to pull mine off and swap them in on the side of the road to get him home...

My HS kit was from Allpro many moons ago.

[STOMPER]

I got Sky manufacturing's kit and have been happy with it. The arms are beef.

[crawlrunner]

I got Sky manufacturing's kit and have been happy with it. The arms are beef.

What about the TREs ... Aisins?

[informationjunky]

http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=153701

I know nothing about them, just passing along the post.

[crawlrunner]

I need some pics of high steer ... especially from drivers side of the steering box. Stupid Trail Gear ships stuff out sans instructions ... to me. Pics of thier IFS steering box mount installation would be nice too. Which plate goes on which side of the frame (one's a lot thicker than the other)?
Do I need a stabilizer now? If so I need pics of that too.
HELP!
THANKS!

[link817]

36s and front locker = hydro-assist steering. Marshall meet up w/ a guy at river rock w/ trail gears hydro set up. Ask him about it, I didn't get any of the details on it.

[ATLRoach]

Ed I'll have TG's Assist kit on when I come to SETO.. That is 50x better than a stablizer.

Also the side that the tube slides through goes on the inside.

[crawlrunner]

10-4. The issue is: I think my ARB bumper prevents me from sliding the box as far forward as AllPro's all verbal (no pics) instructions.

[TRoss]

Ed,

From what I've seen/read, you go as far forward on the frame as possible. Also read where the front spring mount likes to crack so might consider reinforcing while your there. The only mystery to me is the angle of the gearbox. I've seen the input shaft parallel with the frame and at angles. Not sure which works best... not that I have any experience with any of it.... just passing on the info.

http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69617

[4inT100]

I'll get you some pics of mine if you still need them. It's an 82-83 pickup so my frame is shorter in the front that runners and 84-85 trucks.

[ATLRoach]

I can take a pic of mine when I get home..

[crawlrunner]

36s and front locker = hydro-assist steering. Marshall meet up w/ a guy at river rock w/ trail gears hydro set up. Ask him about it, I didn't get any of the details on it.

AAARRRGGGHHH! But the root formula says: ARB front locker+Longfields+HighSteer=0$:eek:

[Marshytaco]

I think you need to assemble the high steer on the axle and then figure out where to place the steering box. All of this geometry will determine death wobble/responsive enough steering, too. That's just my though, anyways, and after winging it on the 82, it seems to work pretty well for me and I didn't move my steering box as much as I could have. I got the drag link and tie rod as close to parallel as possible but still be able to clear the zerks, no problems. This should leave you with as good of suspension/steering geometry as possible, for an off road rig. But, you need to make darn sure that everything will clear!

IMHO, don't buy anyone's steering box plates, just make your own, it's cheaper and I think stronger. We re-inforced ours at several points where I just thought the kits I saw could have been a lot better. for about $20 in materials from Metal Supermarkets and a few hours fab time, mine is never going anywhere it shouldn't!

[crawlrunner]

I think you need to assemble the high steer on the axle and then figure out where to place the steering box. All of this geometry will determine death wobble/responsive enough steering, too. That's just my though, anyways, and after winging it on the 82, it seems to work pretty well for me and I didn't move my steering box as much as I could have. I got the drag link and tie rod as close to parallel as possible but still be able to clear the zerks, no problems. This should leave you with as good of suspension/steering geometry as possible, for an off road rig. But, you need to make darn sure that everything will clear!

IMHO, don't buy anyone's steering box plates, just make your own, it's cheaper and I think stronger. We re-inforced ours at several points where I just thought the kits I saw could have been a lot better. for about $20 in materials from Metal Supermarkets and a few hours fab time, mine is never going anywhere it shouldn't!


Are U running a stabilizer? How's it work w/out the HYDRO A$$I$T?

[ATLRoach]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4900575&postcount=57

[crawlrunner]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4900575&postcount=57

Kyle Ure awsome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I don't even have to freakin read!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:saw: :welder: :saw: :welder: We need a littled drilling smiley thingy!!!!!!!!

The ARB bumper is def getting a bit of clearancing though :saw: We need a little ginder smiley thingy too.

[TRoss]

That's purdy slick.

[04 Rocko Taco]

Slick indeed!!

[Marshytaco]

Are U running a stabilizer? How's it work w/out the HYDRO A$$I$T?

No stabilizer on mine. Without the hydro it works just fine for me, now. I will certainly do hydro one of these days, but i still have a lot of straight body panels I need to dent before I will put the rig down for this mod. I think hydro will help the most when you are not moving forward and need to turn the wheels. As long as I'm moving, a little, I can still steer with a good bit of effort, when locked up front. As of now, I don't mind it, but then again, I'm just so freaking happy that the rig is working now, I guess I'm a little biased!

[crawlrunner]

OK ... WTF ... after every run (lately ... after histeer conversion & slick rock & lower 2) I've had to tighten the steering arm nuts! And don't tell me I'm not torking 'em enough ... am I alone?

[4inT100]

It's always a good idea to check all your nuts. Before and after a run. I've neglected mine, but I'll make sure I do it before my next trip out. I had a cotter pin that actually worked lose once...that coulda been baaaad

[ATLRoach]

They are stretching and more than likey they need to replaced. Look into a set of ARP studs.

[Marshytaco]

OK ... WTF ... after every run (lately ... after histeer conversion & slick rock & lower 2) I've had to tighten the steering arm nuts! And don't tell me I'm not torking 'em enough ... am I alone?

Red Loctite is your friend....I use it on almost all of my steering and d-line bolts. While it's a pain to take stuff apart, they won't just fall out, either. I still have to put my new steering stuff on and I will be using some loctite when I do mine.

[Supra 4x4]

I run the ARP studs and mine still gets loose. I broke a stock hub stud once and it was not fun removing it so I am afraid to use the red locktight. I check mine each day before a ride. I run Marlins High steer and no regrets. Just added Trail Gears hydro assist (not the new one with the pump) and I wish I had done it long ago, it makes driving on the trail with both hubs locked (front spool) easy. I used to get in and out to lock and unlock one hub but no more and it drives better.

[crawlrunner]

I run the ARP studs and mine still gets loose.

Now I've heard this from several folks at different times. Hmmmmm Everybody check ur steering arm nuts alot!

[Marshytaco]

Well, I was putting my new streering stuff on, last night, and I think I might know part of the problem, or at least what could be a problem with mine. The studs do not want to stay tight in the knuckle on their own. I TRIED to clean out the threads as much as I possibly could with brake cleaner and a rag and then I loctited the threads that screw down into the knuckle, but that's really where I think they get loose....at least on mine anyways.