Tire rub and lift question

[Tatsu]

I just put a set of 31 x 10.5 x 15 on a set of 15 x 10 rims and now when I turn all the way to the left the tire rubs on the fender. I want to do a 2" bodylift on it but my question is how hard is a suspension lift on these with the bars instead of springs up front? Oh my runner is a 1990

[ike]

What wheels do you have on it? 31x10.5s should not rub on your truck.

[Tatsu]

That is what I thought also. The only thing I could think is that I am not using the stock 15x7 inch rims, I have 15x10 inch rims. Here are some pictures I just took of the truck. I am pretty sure the alinment is ok as I just had the steering recall done on it this summer and the did one on it but I may still take it in for one.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h271/Tatsurx7/4Runner/PhotoTg.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h271/Tatsurx7/4Runner/Photo-0023.jpg

this is the driver side that rubs
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h271/Tatsurx7/4Runner/Photo-0024.jpg

this is the passanger side that does not rub
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h271/Tatsurx7/4Runner/Photo-0025.jpg

[RedRunnertc]

Ummm ... first, this is CO, not Hawaii. 10.5" wide tires on 10" rims is not a good idea.

Second, IMHO suspension lift on our trucks is asking for trouble. For the best reliability, you should keep it basically at stock height. You can gain more than enough clearance by removing the running boards. If you're actually going to take the truck offroad, it's a good idea anyways, as they will cause more damage than they prevent:
http://shim1.shutterfly.com/procgserv/47b6df08b3127cce98548a5df8df00000017100CaMmTdoxYsZ
(BTW - those are 33x10.50 with no lift and no rub)

Lastly - fix that damn saggy butt! Either coil spacers or new coils, $100 or less!

[devinsixtyseven]

x2 everything Troy said.

The 15x10 has probably moved the tire too far outboard...at least 1.5" beyond where it would normally sit.

Is it rubbing on the forward edge of the running board, or inside the wheel well?

OBTW there are a couple reasons you don't want that wide rim/narrow tire combo...first, the rim will get damaged offroad. It'll happen, trust me...I've gouged 16x8s in 315/75/16 tires, it'll happen even worse with the rim so far out and no tire to protect it. Second, at low pressure you're going to have a helluva time keeping the bead on the rim, particularly when it's pressed up against a rock.

May as well get out the sawzall and give yourself a reason to run 35x12.5/15 tires instead of those pups ;).

What part of the state you in?

-Sean

[spindleshanks]

Tatsu, these guys know their stuff.
It sounds like the easiest thing to do immediately would be to take off the running boards, and find out exactly where the rubbing is occurring.
If your sagging rear end is any indication, your front end is also lower than stock height. Maybe it's time to address that.
And you could get some cheap steel wheels for like $35 each that those tires will fit on much better, with the correct backspacing, etc.
Good luck buddy!

[Tatsu]

Thanks for all the input guys. I do plan on taking the running boards off but I need to get some sliders first as my 5 year old already has a hard time getting in and out. The rear sag is the next thing I am going to fix. I just need to get the money for springs. My only question is why it only rubs on one side and not the other. It is the outer edge of the tire rubbing on the inner fender. I live out near Smoky Hill and E-470 but I work off Dry Creek and I-25

[RedRunnertc]

Because of the way the steering works - you turn tighter one way than the other.

[devinsixtyseven]

No kiddin'...I figured it would be alignment, but I don't know how the older rigs are set up.

On the later models, the cams can be used to position the tire fore and aft, if you have the angles to spare. On a late model anyway, the side sitting lower will end up aligned with the tire further aft. If you have the same cam setup, that would mean the forward left cam is pointed in more than the forward right (pivot point pushed out), and the rear left cam is pointed outward more than the rear right (pivot point pushed in). It might not be much, only a few degrees...ideally the cams are set to equal positions side to side.

If you have that cam setup, check 'em out, make sure there's nothing crazy happening.

-Sean

[TowerRigger]

This might be the most politically incorrect post, but your parked in a handycapped spot. They might frown on that if you're not. Anyways I had 36 12.5s on my 15x10s. 31 10s need to be on 8s. Loose the steps. Weld some sliders. If you're cool enough Molly will even hook you up with some slifders. Sorry old thread joke.

[vwfastg60]

Ok so first issue i see.... the wheels are too wide for the backspacing they have. Im guessing they are 3.75 or less. If you can pull one off and measure it. 31's shouldnt rub on a stock yota. You are having the same issue with rubbing as we had on ballz runner with 33/12.5.15's and no lift. Its just rubbing on the running board piece and a bit of the splashgaurd. You have a few options here crank the Tbars up a tiny bit. continue your plans with the lift or you can get the right wheels to make this happen. If your planning a body lift think bigger tires cause 31's look ok stock but 33's look better. You can also pound that pinchweld down and trim the splashgaurd to make it not rub but the problem is the wheel size and BS i am 99% sure of it.

33/12.5/15 on stock 4runner
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v147/vwfastg60/Picture110.jpg
33/10.5 on stock
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v147/vwfastg60/Picture400.jpg
and to give you an idea how BS'ing effects tire and wheel combos...People say you cant fit bigger then a 33 with a 3inch body lift. On that 4runner with a 3inch body lift he was running my old 36/14.5/15's with next to no issues and wheeling carnage every weekend.

We just stuffed 38.5's on it :lol: