ARB Locker, Compressor or Air Tank?

[Gerdo]

I hope to be buying my long waited ARB Rear Locker soon. My question is... Should I run it off a CO2 tank? Or an ARB Compressor? For those that run theirs off a compressor. How long does the compressor have to be turned on, to build up pressure, before the locker will lock?

These are some of the advantages and disadvantages of each that I can think of.

Compressor advantages:
Less expensive
never run out of air
the way ARB designed it to be run

Compressor disadvantages:
more switches and wireing to run
Delayed activation


CO2 Tank advantages:
instantaneous activation
air for refilling tires
could be run w/o solenoid, just air switch

CO2 disadvantages:
potential of too much pressure
cost

[tacotoy]

i have seen it run both ways.... but i think you are a little misled as to how the setup is meant to function

the compressor setup you turn on the compressor say when you are wheeling or whatever and it builds up to pressure and shuts itself off. then as part of the locker assembly there is a solenoid that when you hit the locker button inside the truck opens the solenoid and engages the locker. the arb compressor puts out very little air volume but is a high pressure compressor. once the locker is locked it takes very little air to maintain the engagement. so technically your engagement is instant as long as you remember to turn on the compressor to pressurize the system ( you are looking at about 2-5 minutes depending on how much air lines you have.

CO2 works great until you run out. but it is nice to have to also be able to reinflate your tires. i would recommend a set pressure regulator that is seperate from the CO2 regulator that keeps the pressure right at about 80psi (standard operating pressure for the locker) the engagement works the same way as the compressor setup.... a solenoid opens and closes engaging and disengaging the locker. really other than where you get the pressure from it all works the same.

[RedRunnertc]

Good post Rich.

The new compressors run for <1 min to build up the pressure. If you get the larger one, ARB has designed it to inflate tires and the new design puts out twice the CFM the old one did.

Don't underestimate the importance of not over pressurizing the locking mechanism. The o-rings are not very big, and you have to pull the thirdmember to fix it, so it's a big deal.

[techno]

My arb compressor (RDCKA)takes about 3-4 seconds to fully charge, nowhere near 1 minute, and it locks in within 1-2 seconds from a dead start (which is almost never since the tank is always full). I can always engage and disengage at least 3 times before the system recharges, which takes <2 secs.
The locker still engages whilst the system is pressurizing. From memory, the system operates between 80 -105 psi, it recharges at <80 and shuts off at 105, but it requires much less then 80 to actually function.
A buddy of mine converted his rock slider tubing into an air tank and hooked up the pressure regulating stuff to it and would get at least 20 full locker cycles before it recharged.

[Gerdo]

I didn't relize that the ARB comp has a small tank on it. The ARB comp seems like the safest way. I also didn't relize that you could turn on the comp and it auto shuts off and on as needed.

[hud]

I used one of those MF1050 compressors that you can get off ebay for $15. It charges my 1/2 gal. air tank to 105psig in about a minute. It runs on a ViAir solenoid/relay 85-105 range. Once you throw the switch for the locker, it activates with very little delay. I don't think it would go slower or quicker with any of the alternatives you listed.

C02 would be a sweet setup. I would be interested to know how cold the CO2 gets when it decompresses, particularly when wheelin in the winter. Probably wouldn't be any big deal.

[AxleIke]

My ARB Compressor runs for about 5 seconds to fully charge. Rear locker requires a short burst to activate, then it shuts off again.

Air lockers require a small charge to ACTIVATE, then ZERO air to stay on. My lockers will stay locked for 12 hours or more (the longest i've left them on) without the compressor recharging.

[RedRunnertc]

Not true, Isaac - they require a constant pressure to stay locked.

The amount of air they will use is directly proportional to how many/how bad leaks you have.

[devinsixtyseven]

Isaac your solenoids must be different from mine? When I cut the power, they dump the pressure. CKSA12 compressor, I assume the solenoids are the same?

Only way I can think of to keep the lockers engaged w/power off would be full pneumatic switches.

[Gerdo]

Well after talking about it for about 3-6 months I did it. I ordered my rear ARB locker and HO compressor. I'm going with a completely new totaly setup 3rd member. I got a good price on it and the comp from Randy's rings. I also ordered some diff armor from Sky-Manufacturing (http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/products.php). I figured since I'll have the 3rd and all fliud out what better time than now.

[Gerdo]

Is there any reason not to triger both the compressor and the locker off one switch?

[Lysmachia]

I can't think of any. But will you ever want to wire up a front locker? if so then there might be a reason. (Though most peeps will run a rear locker always if they run a front one) The advantage to 2 switches is that if your rear locker goes out due to a leak you can always reverse the lines and use the front locker.

[RedRunnertc]

Several reasons:
Having two switches acts as a safety to prevent accidental engagement.

I like to run the compressor on the way to the trail so everything is charged up before you need it.

If you have them on the same switch there will be a slight delay for the system to build pressure before the locker engages. When I turn off the locker switch, it dumps the solenoids, and I lose a lot of pressure.

If you want to use the compressor for tires, etc, it won't work if you have an air leak to the locker. With a separate switch, the solenoid is disengaged, so a leak in that part of the system is "bypassed"

[AxleIke]

Not true, Isaac - they require a constant pressure to stay locked.

The amount of air they will use is directly proportional to how many/how bad leaks you have.

Ah, I poorly worded my post. That was what I was trying to say. What I meant was that the locker should deplete your air reserve slightly when turning on, then, if you have no leaks, the pressure just stays constant. It should not use any more air.

Is there any reason not to triger both the compressor and the locker off one switch?

You will have to redo the harness. I like being able to leave my compressor on, and cycle the locker. But, it should be possible.

[hanksyota]

I can't think of any. But will you ever want to wire up a front locker? if so then there might be a reason. (Though most peeps will run a rear locker always if they run a front one) The advantage to 2 switches is that if your rear locker goes out due to a leak you can always reverse the lines and use the front locker.

Several reasons:
Having two switches acts as a safety to prevent accidental engagement.

I like to run the compressor on the way to the trail so everything is charged up before you need it.

If you have them on the same switch there will be a slight delay for the system to build pressure before the locker engages. When I turn off the locker switch, it dumps the solenoids, and I lose a lot of pressure.

If you want to use the compressor for tires, etc, it won't work if you have an air leak to the locker. With a separate switch, the solenoid is disengaged, so a leak in that part of the system is "bypassed"

:lmao:
great minds think alike.

[Gerdo]

All good points, thanks.