Im commited to it now

[vwfastg60]

Its gotta happen and its going to happen in the next few weeks. IFS has pissed me off once and for all. Tonight i thought id string alighn my truck to get it pointed somewhat straight. I come to find a few interesting things.

1. Bolt that holds the lift bracket to the hub has sheered 1 of the 2 bolts that are on the hub and its deep in the hub and not drilling out. Its killed 3 new bits with plenty of lube and i have a nice dent in it and thats about it.

2. Driver side diff mount on the frame is no longer on the frame. It was ripped clean off.

3. lower balljoints are kinda sloppy. I replaced them less then a year ago. would be fine for stock or maybe 33's but my 36's make them sloppy.

4. because i didnt notice the diff being that loose under the truck my diff seals that were new as of last november have been leaking. I have milk coming out of the diff seal on the passengerside. Also the CV bolts are missing 3 of the 6.

No more mod money being spent on fixing stuff i have had it. I love this truck and dont want to sell it so heres the plan. 85 front axle(cant afford to do the swap if i go with the FZJ axle and those are harder to find) Trailgear IFS kit and rear leafs. For now im going to be open and still on 4:10's but with any luck i should be ok for a few months while i save for longs,front locker, gears.
Im going to have all the welding done at Danny Boy because he has proven worthy of such a task over and over and over.

Heres some questions cause it wouldnt be me with out them.

Front shackle angle- How much I have heard on here 20-25deg is good but the first thing i ever heard when i started asking about it was 45 for a good mix of up and down travel and a good ride. Im looking for a good amount of droop. Im keeping my 36's and moving the axle forward so i should be fine on the uptravel because my fenders have been smashed and dented to make room as it sits.

Trussing and making it strong-What can i do other then the top truss and get an 85 housing to make this strong? I was thinking frame bracing. After this truck has been hit 3 times in the front and totaled with no frame damage i want to keep the frame straight.

1st mod- With 36's what should i do first? longs or gears/locker. Winter will slow the wheeling down but the truck needs to be reliable cause the bimmer cant move in snow.


Thanks guys you are always more help then i ever expect.

Russell

[RedRunnertc]

I don't think there's a whole lot of room to really brace the frame, but you can at least plate it when all the IFS stuff is ground off. Basically, you want a plate with holes in it, weld around the edge and the holes.

The trailgear kit comes with histeer, right?

You definitely need these on your axle - more than the upper gusset IMHO
http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/images/40307-001.jpg

Personally, I would save up to do the Longs/gears/lockers all at the same time as the labor is kinda PITA, and they all require the same stuff (disassembly and pulling the axles). Just realize that with stock Birfs, you're not getting any axle strength over the IFS (but you are getting a considerable improvement in steering strength).

[Volcom]

Front shackle angle- How much I have heard on here 20-25deg is good but the first thing i ever heard when i started asking about it was 45 for a good mix of up and down travel and a good ride. Im looking for a good amount of droop. Im keeping my 36's and moving the axle forward so i should be fine on the uptravel because my fenders have been smashed and dented to make room as it sits.

Trussing and making it strong-What can i do other then the top truss and get an 85 housing to make this strong? I was thinking frame bracing. After this truck has been hit 3 times in the front and totaled with no frame damage i want to keep the frame straight.

1st mod- With 36's what should i do first? longs or gears/locker. Winter will slow the wheeling down but the truck needs to be reliable cause the bimmer cant move in snow.


Thanks guys you are always more help then i ever expect.

Russell

My front shackle angle is by far close to being ideal. It currently sits about 10 degress back after a year of having the lift on the truck. When I orginally set it up, TG recommended having the front spring hanger 1/2 to 3/4" forward of the stock front crossmember. I moved my front spring hanger 3/4" and the angle sucked big time. I ended up moved it back flush and the angles were much better. Here's a thread I posted on TG's forum asking about the front shackle angle (Thread on TG (http://www.trail-gear.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2986)). The pictures on that thread were with the spring hanger flush. Chris G said I should move the spring hanger at least 1/2" forward after seeing the pictures so I did. Bad move IMO. I should have left it flush.

My current shackle angle looks like what's in those pictures after a year of wheeling. The 4" springs did settle but not as much as I was expecting.

However, it still has a ton of droop and stuff
http://arlojeep.com/Trip-Reports//Chinamans-Gulch-11-17-07/Weberized/IMG_4785_resize.JPG

http://arlojeep.com/Trip-Reports//Chinamans-Gulch-11-17-07/Weberized/IMG_4783_resize.JPG

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r101/allanedavis/OCG%20Nov%2007/AarononRockGardenpic5.jpg

I honestly wouldn't worry about the top housing truss. I've heard quite a few people end up warping their housings after welding them on. I would totally recommend welding on some knuckle gussests like TC suggested. That is where these axles bend if left gussetless.

Do the Longfields, gears, and lockers all at once. I hate doing things twice or three times. Rebuilding a Toyota front axle is a crappy job. I don't plan on doing it every other year at the most.

Make sure you also buy the steering box frame mounts. I would also ditch the stock box location and place it as far forward as you can go to make your drag link / tie rod placement as parallel as possible.

Here's my buildup of my 4Runner, starting on page 8 is the TG lift and Marlin dual cases.
My Buildup Thread on the Rockfrogs (http://www.rockfrogs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=110&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=105)

Let me know if you have any other questions about the TG kit or setting it up. It's all still pretty fresh in my mind only being a year ago :D

[RedRunnertc]

Droop travel makes for great pictures, but I'm not convinced it increases the capability of the truck much, if any, especially compared to compression travel... :2cents:

[Volcom]

Droop travel makes for great pictures, but I'm not convinced it increases the capability of the truck much, if any, especially compared to compression travel... :2cents:

It's better than hanging a tire in the air. I'd rather have a chance that the drooped wheel grabs a small rock or some dirt rather than spin in the air. I think a well-rounded rig has plenty of both, compression and droop. Most IFS SAS'ed rigs only have several inches of compression (if they have a reasonable amount of lift :D ). The frame makes contact with the tie rod / drag link. That's the nice thing about the 84-85 frames, they have some arch to them minimizing the frame to steering rod contact.

I have my bumpstops set so they let the front springs go to level but no more. There is only 3.5 inches between the U-Bolt place and the bumpstop. But once one side makes contact, the other wheel can leverage off of the bumpstop, increasing the droop on that side. I have seen trucks with less space between the bumpstop and springs (less compression) flex just as well as mine and do just as well on the trail.

Also, it's really hard to fit big tires (36-37's and bigger) and have a ton of compression flex. It's easier to minimize the compression and keep the tires out of the fenders, body, frame, etc...

[vwfastg60]

Im going to be running 36's on it and going to limit my compression travel so that its not killing another set of fenders.I think it would be nice to have a good amount of droop so that i can grab whatever i can rather then need the locker up front so while that tires hanging in the air i can keep going. I think its going to be a lot of tweaking once its on to get set up how i want it.


Volcom- How do your shackles sit at full stuff? I like your down travel a bunch but with your bumpstops set how they are in relation to the frame?

[Volcom]

Volcom- How do your shackles sit at full stuff? I like your down travel a bunch but with your bumpstops set how they are in relation to the frame?

Here's a couple more pics. I tried to enlarge one of them to show you the shackle angle at full compression. Looking at the picture, it's about 45 degrees. Like I said, my front shackles are not ideal IMO. I believe they should be kicked back another 20-25 degress when fully stuffed.

http://www.rockfrogs.org/Pictures/AE/chinamans/006.jpg

http://www.rockfrogs.org/Pictures/AE/chinamans/007.jpg

http://www.rockfrogs.org/Pictures/AE/chinamans/008.jpg

I will try and get some pics of my bumpstops. They are a very simple design and work quite well.

You probably won't get much more flex than what I've got with leaf springs unless you buggy leaf the rear. It's not worth it IMO. So far, my limiting factor has been my tires, not my suspension or lack of gearing :D You have to remember, these are 33" tires that actually only measure out to 31" tall. Once I go to a bigger tire, I'll have all 4 tires touching the ground while flexing on this rock.

[vwfastg60]

(im a bit intoxicated still so this may be total dribble)ok So i have been looking at your build and it looks great. I sat down with a friend of mine and was showing him the set up. He will be helping with the build and on my truck im going to try to kick the shackle back a bit more then what you have and most trail-gear swaps i see have. It looks like at full compression the leaf is about flat and in some pics maybe back arched a bit if the person has set the bumpstops high. Id like the best of both worlds and with even a 30* angle to start my ride on the street will be a bit better or softer atleast and the truck will still have good up and down travel. The down travel will seem more then it is because kicking the shackle back should lower it a tiny bit and once drooped to the max it will look like its all traveled really far. Before i set it im going to play with shackle angle on my rears cause i may be way off here. I just dont want to drill a bunch of holes in the frame or cut off the hangers and reweld it cause i thought or heard something. I tried to fix the truck so it can be drivin if it snows or gets crappy out and hold me off for some more cash to throw longs,locker and gears in at the same time but we broke seriously 9 different tools trying to get the bolt extractor out and wound up drilling and drilling and drilling...5 bits later still not out or clean enough to get a thread. I guess i have drivin it like that for who knows how long so i may drive it if need be but mainly driving the bimmer tell i get going on this.

If anyone finds a toyota axle dont care what year as long as it s a mini truck axle then let me know. I would like a cheap one so i can get it torn down and the parts i need. Even if i replace the seals and get my housing later that i want im cool with that.

Long term plan is get a diamond or spidertrax housing and make it the same width as my rear maybe a smidge wider so i can keep the truck standing how it is. IFS with 1.5 spacers and 3.75 BS wheels and roughly 6inches of lift feels like a stock rig to me now and i like that. With a SAS and the truck not tipping like it does on little stuff i will feel better about bigger things.

[Volcom]

With the TG springs, make sure you set the bumpstops when the spring is level. Negative arching leaf springs is probably the single worst thing you can do to them. TG springs won't last more than a year if you negative arch them.

The best way to find your front shackle angle is to install the frame tubes. Cut all the IFS crap off of the frontend. Tack weld the front spring hanger and install leaf springs. Put front axle under truck and place full weight on front axle (even if it's just jack stands under the axle). Check angle and make adjustments to the front spring hanger if need be. Never fully weld front spring on until you are fully certain that is where you want it.

I agree with the rear width. I have an IFS rear end with 2.5 inch backspaced 15x10 wheels. That is pretty much the same setup you have (within .5"). I run 1.5" spacers on the front along with the same wheels. It puts a ton of strain on the trunion bearings but it doesn't worry me. The turning radius absolutely sucks balls though.

[vwfastg60]

I had thought about the bumpstops already but thanks for the reminder. Im going to do rears too so before i wheel it im going to be testflexing it a bunch to make sure its set. I saw the pics in you posted when i asked about the trail gear stuff and your runner is flexy! Im exited to wheel with some suspension movement.

[85xtracab]

i am running rears up front. and i am in the same boat as volcom. i dont think that my shackle angle is ideal, and i have a 3in (maybe less) of up travel. I love my setup it is low and stable.

i still have a little more travel too.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c202/lauren12114/Mabell%2011-24-07/mabell16.jpg

sitting flat

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c202/lauren12114/ma%20bell/MaBell8-18-07007.jpg

those are 36in Iroks that never rub.

im gonna see if i can find some better pics of the actual shackle angle. but im sure it is close to Volcoms

[vwfastg60]

Both nice set ups! I saw rear 2wd up front on a 4runner and it was ok but not all that much movement. My only hang up now is what lift leafs to get with the kit. I was thinking 5 inch because with the shackle i should sit about where i do now(6inch ish of lift) That way i can leave the rear for a few weeks if need be. I think with as fast as i work and the housing going to be ready before we even cut off the IFS that we should be able to knock it out in like a week. I have 3 grinders a gas axe and can get the plasma if needed. I have a front end lift that fits a toyota frame perfect so the front and rear will be easy to get up take the tires off and come down to the ground and just hang there to be cut up.

So from the guys who were IFS before...What is not included in the kit that im overlooking. I was thinking Front DS. Mines slipyoke now but i doubt it will be close to what i need. The truck is my DD most of the time so id like to avoid square shafts.

Also Where the hell do i find 2.5 BS wheels? I thought i was a bad ass with 2.75 on my 31's but i was thinking steel wheels would be better then my alu. Wheels and 2.5 BS would be nice to stick the wheels out another inch.

Pics of the truck as it sits.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v147/vwfastg60/Picture656.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v147/vwfastg60/Picture562.jpg

[Volcom]

84 front axle for sale (http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showthread.php?t=110879)

Summit sells the 2 and 2.5" backspaced wheels. Check out the thread on Pirate4x4 under the Toyota section. I can't find the link right now at work.

[Volcom]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197981

[Volcom]

85 Front and rear axles for $250. (http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showthread.php?t=110994) You could turn around the sell the rear for $50-$75 to make some $$ back on the deal.

Might want to move quick, Toyota front axles move pretty quick!

[Volcom]

Fully built front axle with Longfields and extra housing (http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showthread.php?t=110961)

Good deal when you add up all the ARP hardware, 5.29 gears (and setup), Longfields, hub gears, high steer, and hydro assist ram and mounts.

[Volcom]

And the room goes quiet :D No more project vwfastg60?

[vwfastg60]

Im still planning this out and trying to find the right parts to make it all happen. I have a good lead on an axle through a friend and once the axles here im going to clean it up and get it 90% ready then order the Trailgear stuff. It was my bday yesterday so my family has been dragging me all over the place. Lastnight i took about 2 hours to myself to make a brace for the idler arm and work on my rollbar. Today im going to replace the knuckle on the truck so that if it snows like they are talking im not trying to find a winch bumper for my bummer lol. As much fun as that car was in the snow its wont get me anywhere if the snow is more then an inch deep.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v147/vwfastg60/Bimmer/?action=view&current=Picture132.jpg

Thats the car in Daily mode so you can see my issue.

Im going to be gathering parts as fast as money and time allows but at the same time id like to get gears and replace my clutch and timing chains and radiator. I have really neglected those kinds of things because i have been so burnt out on wrenching the truck. 2 project cars is a killer and i have been thinking about selling the bimmer i just cant bring myself to do it.

[Volcom]

Nice car :xrocker:

[vwfastg60]

Thanks :)

[Volcom]

Quick video I made of my trip to Chinamans. Gives you an idea of how well the suspension works in the rocks :D

YouTube video of Chinamans (http://youtube.com/watch?v=kTnLil3wmto)

[Quick Draw]

Quick video I made of my trip to Chinamans. Gives you an idea of how well the suspension works in the rocks :D

YouTube video of Chinamans (http://youtube.com/watch?v=kTnLil3wmto)

Wow, that last part with the ledge was very impressive... I want a cool truck! Friggin' lack of money...

[Volcom]

Wow, that last part with the ledge was very impressive... I want a cool truck! Friggin' lack of money...

Thanks. That's the left line on Whale Rock. It's a wheelbase and traction thing :D The dual cases make the traction part easier.

[RedRunnertc]

That second part was a bit tippy for my taste!

[Volcom]

That second part was a bit tippy for my taste!

Not tippy at all in the seat. I've been 10-15 degrees worse and still no rollage :D

So far, I've been nothing but impressed with the Trail Gear kit. It's felt super stable on everything I've driven so far!

[devinsixtyseven]

You can get a quality driveshaft for under 200$, I don't remember the name offhand but IIRC they're in Arvada. Offroad Solutions can provide the name, they're the ones that recommended the shop. It's a nice piece. They reused the Toyota CV and added thicker tubing, a longer slip joint and the correct yoke at the end.

Molly took a couple pics at the HOW punkin day, they're on shutterfly or whichever it was.

-Sean

[Son of Mayhem]

Dood, my stock 86 did the left line:flipoff4:

[Volcom]

Dood, my stock 86 did the left line:flipoff4:

I'd love to hear your turbo working hard up that line :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

[vwfastg60]

ok so i talked to my dad today and we were talking about the truck. He asked how my brace worked on the idler arm and i told him the sad news. Rather then braking the L bow joint it broke the joint on the relay rod and when that happened it also cleaned out my pitman arm. I went on to tell him about an axle i found and said iwasnt going to screw with it anymore and id just drive his maxama in the snow cause he just got a new highlander. Anyways he told me to hit up the guy with the axle and that would be my Xmas present so here we go. I have been reading on trailgears site and organizing tools and making sure i have plenty of gas/grinding disks for this.

When you get the IFS eliminator kit from trail gear i notice they dont have shock hoop size or shock size...Is it possible to get the 14inch shocks and hoops with the kit? Also i see that have a 12inch slip yoke shaft...Will it work in my front shaft or will i need an adapter and an 85 front shaft?

I have been looking at shackles on everything i can find andi think im going to swap out the trail gear shackles with a boomarang shackle cause it looks like the trail gear one might hit the body mount on hard compression travel. Im still not 100% this will be the answer but its a thought and one i can test before i commit to it.

Im going to get the 5inch leafs front and rear this way i dont have to change the rear right now but will end up swapping my rears out in the future. For now it will sit close to the same. I have a 4inch leaf and 1 inch block in there with a longer shackle and id like to get rid of that mess and get something with fewer parts and i like to match things up lol.

So im going to call on some axles today and if i can grab one today or tomorrow. and start cleaning and stripping. With my OCD that thing will be bare metal cleaned inside and have the armor welded on and the truss then a fresh coat of paint so i can enjoy it all purdy for a while.

[vwfastg60]

i also have been spending some tim on Marlins site and as soon as the rear Cromoly shafts are not back ordered i will grab those and inner fronts(it will give me some time to save) Longs are a pretty good price on there from what i can tell. I will run it open with stock gears for now while i throw another case in and get rid of my low hanging tranny Xmember.


Goal for summer.
SAS done and perfected
gears and front locker
2nd case and skid
bumpers and canback
sliders

I think its totaly doable i just gotta work harder.




Troy, What are those gussets you posted? I saw marlin has some but didnt know if those were the ones. LMK and i will grab those and armor for the front this week.

[Volcom]

When you get the IFS eliminator kit from trail gear i notice they dont have shock hoop size or shock size...Is it possible to get the 14inch shocks and hoops with the kit? Also i see that have a 12inch slip yoke shaft...Will it work in my front shaft or will i need an adapter and an 85 front shaft?

Yes, I'm running the 14" shocks with the tall hoops. You have to ask for them when you order. That 12" slip works perfect for the front DS. You will want to use a CV when getting a front DS built. Your current front DS has one. It might need mod'ed to allow it more flex though or find a stock 84/85 front DS.
CV Modification (http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/)

I'm running a square front shaft with 16" of slip. It works just fine if you don't need to run over 25-30 mph in 4 wheel drive. Only cost me $30 to make.

I have been looking at shackles on everything i can find andi think im going to swap out the trail gear shackles with a boomarang shackle cause it looks like the trail gear one might hit the body mount on hard compression travel. Im still not 100% this will be the answer but its a thought and one i can test before i commit to it.

Just run the regular straight shackles. I don't know of a single person that runs the TG springs with boomerang shackles. I doubt you'll hit the body mount on compression (unless you really bump the shackle angle way back). My shackles have self clearanced the front of my body mounts :D I'll trim them and reinforce them one of these days. It's not really that big of a deal.

The gussests to buy are from TG. I have the Marlin gussests. The TG's are designed better.

[Volcom]

i also have been spending some tim on Marlins site and as soon as the rear Cromoly shafts are not back ordered i will grab those and inner fronts(it will give me some time to save)

You don't need the rear chromoly shafts. The stock shafts are plently strong (guys on 40's aren't breaking them).

Don't buy the inner axles either. Just save your money for 30 spline Longfields (comes with inners and birfields). Stock inners and those Marlin inners are only 27 spline. You'd be wasting your money on the inners (and the rears IMO).

[RedRunnertc]

The gussests to buy are from TG. I have the Marlin gussests. The TG's are designed better.

The link I posted was Front Range Off Road up in RedFeather. Brian makes awesome stuff and is a standup guy.

You don't need the rear chromoly shafts. The stock shafts are plently strong (guys on 40's aren't breaking them).

Don't buy the inner axles either. Just save your money for 30 spline Longfields (comes with inners and birfields). Stock inners and those Marlin inners are only 27 spline. You'd be wasting your money on the inners (and the rears IMO).

x2 - chromoly rears is wasted money if you're still semifloat IMHO. The FROR full float conversion would be money well spent I think.

With 36's and a locker, 30 spline Longs are in your future. Don't waste money on anything else.

[vwfastg60]

Thanks guys, I called on a few axles today and im waiting on calls back. I had a buddy stop by his frineds yard to see what hes got. I should have the front axle by the end of the week and some armor for it on next week.

Are the 6shooter knuckles worth getting? Im trying to build it strong and hydro assist will come at some point so im planning ahead.

[vwfastg60]

Volcom..I have been meaning to ask you about your rear axle placement. Im guessing you have the adjustable spring pads. Did you run the axle farther back? I have been watching all your vids and notice the axle rubs the rear of your fender and its even trimmed already.

[RedRunnertc]

Are the 6shooter knuckles worth getting? Im trying to build it strong and hydro assist will come at some point so im planning ahead.

meh - I think the normal ones are fine if you keep up on the maintenance and keep the bolts tight. If something happens to the stock setup, you have a lot of options - if something happens to something in the 6 shooter setup, you better have a spare (both arms and knuckles).

[Volcom]

Are the 6shooter knuckles worth getting? Im trying to build it strong and hydro assist will come at some point so im planning ahead.

I believe they are better than the standard 4 hole arms. I check the tightness of my knuckle studs before and after every run. I have had to tighten them during runs as well. If you are planning on running hydro assist, I'd go with the 6 shooters. Even if you can't afford the 6 hole knuckles, you can order the 6 hole arms and just run 4 of the 6 for right now and then buy the knuckles later. ScottyC runs his setup that way.

With the 6 shooter, you can run 6 stock studs with no worries. With the stock 4 hole, I'd suggest running ARP knuckle studs for sure! I'm planning on ordering them when I step up tire size along with the hub studs and Longfield Hub gears (only way he warrenties his 30 splines if you ruin the splines on the birfield).

Volcom..I have been meaning to ask you about your rear axle placement. Im guessing you have the adjustable spring pads. Did you run the axle farther back? I have been watching all your vids and notice the axle rubs the rear of your fender and its even trimmed already.

I moved my rear axle back 4 inches when I welded on the TG kit. I wanted a longer than stock wheelbase (103" 1st Gen 4Runner). I'm currently at 109", perfect for the type of wheeling I'm doing! I do have the 3 hole spring perches but just used the middle hole since I relocated the spring hangers and shackle hangers when I installed the kit.

I really need to trim the rear even more and will have to trim an S-load when I bump up to 36's-38's :saw: :saw: :saw: I don't really care what the body looks like. The hardest part is redoing the inner fenderwell.

[vwfastg60]

Ok so i may wind up going with 6 stud arms and knuckles because hydro is in the cards just not right now. I found a site that is cheaper for almost everything i have found. They sell the ball gussets and it comes with top and bottom with intagrated shock tabs and front to back ones for 30 vs FROR at $50

http://lowrangeoffroad.com/images/4runner/axles/knucklegussetkit.jpg

longs are 631 on lowrange. Plus they carry all the trail gear stuff and it looks like it might be cheaper in some parts then others. Sean ordered all the toy axle swap and YJ leaf swap from them and said it was super fast shipping and he got his money worth.

In the rear of the trail gear lift i notice its only available with 12inch shocks and im wondering how that will compare to my rear flex. I have what would compare to there 14inch in the rear. Im starting to worry about the 5inch leafs too cause i want to stay the same or go lower but with my 36's i dont see it possible with out cutting my fenders and floor. I really dont want to get too in to that.

[Volcom]

I wouldn't run anything more than a 12" shock in the rear. I had to angle my shocks to get the 12" ones to fit under the 4Runner, even with a custom shock crossmember that I welded in. One of these days, I'm planning on cutting holes in the floor and running the shocks straight up and down rather than at an angle. I can feel the body roll while driving it on the street. Most of that would go away if the shocks weren't angled.

What length springs do you currently have in your truck? My TG rears flex pretty well for rear springs. The other nice thing is they are 57" long, 10" longer than the stock springs. Longer springs will flex better than shorter springs. It's hard to have a short spring with enough lift and still flex decent.

[RedRunnertc]

I wouldn't run anything more than a 12" shock in the rear. I had to angle my shocks to get the 12" ones to fit under the 4Runner, even with a custom shock crossmember that I welded in. One of these days, I'm planning on cutting holes in the floor and running the shocks straight up and down rather than at an angle. I can feel the body roll while driving it on the street. Most of that would go away if the shocks weren't angled.

If you're going to mount them angled, you have to get stiffer shocks. You lose 50% of the damping force at 45*.

Russel - you need to plan this out very well so you have the same amount of flex in the rear as the front. That may require coming through the bed like the longtravel guys do for the shocks.

[vwfastg60]

If you're going to mount them angled, you have to get stiffer shocks. You lose 50% of the damping force at 45*.

Russel - you need to plan this out very well so you have the same amount of flex in the rear as the front. That may require coming through the bed like the longtravel guys do for the shocks.


I noticed a huge difference in my shocks when i triangulated them. I left the stock mounts on the frame so i can go back and i think its a good idea with the tire carrier im building.I think having more weight up high and the shocks triangulated will make for some sketchy situations when it gets tippy. I really do want the front and rear to flex the same thats why i havent just jumped in to this. I really fear the truck will never be right after this so im going my homework and getting as much info as possible. I have been reading write ups and looking at pics like crazy.