more sway away problems

[Big-A]

I have Sway Aways and the aluminum adjustment collars have frozen up from road salt,dirt,and road grime. So that pretty much defeats the purpose of spending 625.00 on adjustable coilovers and they dont adjust,that isnt cool! Every time I go to the snow I wash my truck the next day,I usually am very good about washing my entire truck and my visible suspension components

The main problem I am having is my suspension is stuck on 3" of lift and I am blowing boots faster than I can change them,I have already gone through one spanner wrench trying to crank them down without success,and yes I have tried every lubricant out there with no luck,and still no luck!

Is anyone else having the same problem??

[YoTRacer158]

i guess you could try a diff drop to see if that alleviates the problem, if you dont already have one...the more expensive option being to get some donahoes w/ a lifetime guarantee

[Big-A]

i guess you could try a diff drop to see if that alleviates the problem, if you dont already have one...the more expensive option being to get some donahoes w/ a lifetime guarantee

The sad thing is that I already have a 3/4" diff drop,I think I will put a solid front axle if I do decide on anything!

[Nanotruck]

Well it's been about a year or so since we got Ryan Shrimp at Sway Away to recall the Tundra valved,and Tacoma valved Sway Away coilovers.

Now a new problem I am starting to notice on mine and other peoples Sway Aways is the adjustment collars are freezing up from road salt,dirt,and road grime. So that pretty much defeats the purpose of spending 625.00 on adjustable coilovers and they dont adjust,that isnt cool!

My suspension is stuck on 3" of lift and I am blowing boots faster than I can change them,I have already gone through one spanner wrench trying to crank them down without success,and yes I have tried every lubricant out there with no luck,and still no luck!

Is anyone else having the same problem??
I've got SAW's and wouldn't recommend them to anyone.

[Big-A]

I've got SAW's and wouldn't recommend them to anyone.

I do have to say they have great customer service and at least are trying to maintain a good reputation which is awesome!

Hopefully Ryan or a rep for sway away can chime in

[DesertTRD]

Well it's been about a year or so since we got Ryan Shrimp at Sway Away to recall the Tundra valved,and Tacoma valved Sway Away coilovers.

Now a new problem I am starting to notice on mine and other peoples Sway Aways is the adjustment collars are freezing up from road salt,dirt,and road grime. So that pretty much defeats the purpose of spending 625.00 on adjustable coilovers and they dont adjust,that isnt cool!

My suspension is stuck on 3" of lift and I am blowing boots faster than I can change them,I have already gone through one spanner wrench trying to crank them down without success,and yes I have tried every lubricant out there with no luck,and still no luck!

Is anyone else having the same problem??
Do you blame toyota for not washing your truck?

Give me a break anything metal will rust, you gotta take the encentive to prevent that, IE WD40 & washing things... Dont expect something like a shock not to rust.. if you dont take care of it, then you wont beable to use it... simple enough, i make sure to spray my shocks with some kind of oil every so often to prevent rust, and its worked i can adjust them without any effort at all.

[SEAN_at_TLT]

Do you blame toyota for not washing your truck?

Give me a break anything metal will rust, you gotta take the encentive to prevent that, IE WD40 & washing things... Dont expect something like a shock not to rust.. if you dont take care of it, then you wont beable to use it... simple enough, i make sure to spray my shocks with some kind of oil every so often to prevent rust, and its worked i can adjust them without any effort at all.

Rust is not the problem, the collar is aluminum and the shock-body is aluminized. Aluminum doesn't rust it oxidizes.

If you live where there is road salt or inclement weather you need to lube the threads frequently or they will seize. I forgot what the exact chemical is but there is something you can squirt on there to help free the collar, it's not just liquid wrench, I saw it on Yotatech a while ago you might try a search there. Sway-A-Way recently began nickel plating their shock bodies to help prevent this. I think the problem is that people forget that these shocks are a racing type product and things like heims and seals will wear out faster than on a standard shock. SAW's are still the least expensive option in the bolt-in coil-over market so I think in that regard they are a great choice. Did you call Ryan before going online and expressing your problems? Ryan is a good guy and he will help you figure out what to do to get your shocks working again.

[Big-A]

Rust is not the problem, the collar is aluminum and the shock-body is aluminized. Aluminum doesn't rust it oxidizes.

If you live where there is road salt or inclement weather you need to lube the threads frequently or they will seize. I forgot what the exact chemical is but there is something you can squirt on there to help free the collar, it's not just liquid wrench, I saw it on Yotatech a while ago you might try a search there. Sway-A-Way recently began nickel plating their shock bodies to help prevent this. I think the problem is that people forget that these shocks are a racing type product and things like heims and seals will wear out faster than on a standard shock. SAW's are still the least expensive option in the bolt-in coil-over market so I think in that regard they are a great choice. Did you call Ryan before going online and expressing your problems? Ryan is a good guy and he will help you figure out what to do to get your shocks working again.

Thank you for clarifying to dorkis about the aluminum collar

I havent contacted him yet on the issue,my main goal for starting this thread was to see if anybody else was experiencing this problem besides myself,if it was an issue with a lot of people then I was going to contact Ryan and get his comment on it.I am not trying to ruin anybodies reputation but just had a concern that I feel others should be aware of IMO.

Maybe what we need to do is stress the importance to new Sway Away owners to lube the shock collar weekly to prevent the freeze up.



edited to correct speeeelling

[akshunj]

A pipe wrench will free it up very easily. We had a set freeze up on Jim from our chapter and the pipe wrench handled the task with ease. The only downside is that the pipe wrench will chew up the outside of the collar on you.

[ocmike]

Rust is not the problem, the collar is aluminum and the shock-body is aluminized. Aluminum doesn't rust it oxidizes.

Well, your right and wrong. Aluminum doesn't rust but Aluminized steel is just steel with a thin coating of aluminum to resist rust. Those shocks are directly in the path of rocks and things of that nature flying at high speed from his and other peoples tires. Penatrate that thin coat and you'll get rust. My aluminized exhaust has rust on it.

[Big-A]

A pipe wrench will free it up very easily. We had a set freeze up on Jim from our chapter and the pipe wrench handled the task with ease. The only downside is that the pipe wrench will chew up the outside of the collar on you.

Hell....I may try that next,it sucks that you should have to resort to that but ohh well,nothings perfect!

[akshunj]

yeah I know it would suck to have to chew up a nice set of coilovers like that, maybe you could put a rag around them to try and stop the pipe from chewing up the collar on you? If you break it free, they must just spin by hand after that.

[Big-A]

i guess you could try a diff drop to see if that alleviates the problem, if you dont already have one...the more expensive option being to get some donahoes w/ a lifetime guarantee

Off Topic.....who was the jackass videotaping you on the hill climb,what an asshole! Must be a Hummer owner or something

[STOMPER]

Well, your right and wrong. Aluminum doesn't rust but Aluminized steel is just steel with a thin coating of aluminum to resist rust. Those shocks are directly in the path of rocks and things of that nature flying at high speed from his and other peoples tires. Penatrate that thin coat and you'll get rust. My aluminized exhaust has rust on it.



You may be right about the rocks and such, But i doubt rocks are ever going to hit between the collar and shock body where the collar is seizing to the body.

[Big-A]

yeah I know it would suck to have to chew up a nice set of coilovers like that, maybe you could put a rag around them to try and stop the pipe from chewing up the collar on you? If you break it free, they must just spin by hand after that.

Something that seemed to work pretty well until my spanner wrench broke last time was I soaked the adjustment collar all night with super lubricant and the next day used my hi-lift jack handle with my spanner for leverage,that worked last time.

[Pete]

My Donahoes are going to enjoy the best New England has to offer this winter. The states and towns around here think salt is the greatest thing EVER and use it liberally.

So, I'll be spraying my favorite anti-corrosion spray all over them (espeically on the collars) in between snow storms.

We'll know come spring time whether $950 coilovers hold up any better. If the collar has seized or is at least a little tight I won't be that surprised.

I just think it's asking a lot of anything to survive a salty enviroment. Marine quality stainless, aluminum, and titanium are the only things that really hold up. And only the last in that list will do it without maintenance.

If my coilovers show no wear and tear after a New England winter I'll be really impressed.

Good luck with getting service on your Sway Aways.

[sawryan]

I have heard of this problem, mainly from the east coast guys who drive in the harsh enviroments w/ snow and road salt etc. Our shocks use a plated steel body w/ a aluminum adjusting nut (just like the DR's), however when salt and dirt and grime get between the threads for 2 months, a year or whatever and you dont clean them or treat them for the harsh enviroment what do you think is going to happen. This is not a manufacturing flaw nor is it something that is covered under warranty. I have an analogy for you guys: ( If a guy rides jet skis and likes to use it in the ocean, but doesnt spray the motor w/ silicone to protect it from the salt water and it rusts,who is at fault?? The owner who did not take the proper steps in protecting the product knowing the harsh enviroment he would be using it in or the manufacture of the jet ski????) What I am trying to say is that you have to take care of the product and not just bolt it on for a 100000 miles and expect everything to work like it did when it is new, it just doesnt work that way. I suggest users of adjustable coil-over lifts (Sway-A-Way, Camburg, Donahoe, Fabtech etc) routinely clean the suspension components, keep the threads lubricated, maybe even use anti-seize, and use a silicone based spray to coat the shocks to help prevent them from corroding and you should have no problems. Please feel free to contact me, ryan@swayaway.com with any questions or concerns

[Big-A]

You may be right about the rocks and such, But i doubt rocks are ever going to hit between the collar and shock body where the collar is seizing to the body.

I dont think it's rocks,but more or less just dirt and silt that work down into the adjustment collar...that would be my hypothesis

[STOMPER]

PB BLASTER is my best friend

:D :D

[sawryan]

You will have the same problem on the Donahoes, Fabtech, etc. if you do not take the steps to preotect your investment. Donahoe use a steel body which is plated and an aluminum adjust nut that has been annodized just like all of the other manufactures of adjustable coil-overs. Here is a good question: Do you change your oil????? If so why????

[Big-A]

I have heard of this problem, mainly from the east coast guys who drive in the harsh enviroments w/ snow and road salt etc. Our shocks use a plated steel body w/ a aluminum adjusting nut (just like the DR's), however when salt and dirt and grime get between the threads for 2 months, a year or whatever and you dont clean them or treat them for the harsh enviroment what do you think is going to happen. This is not a manufacturing flaw nor is it something that is covered under warranty. I have an analogy for you guys: ( If a guy rides jet skis and likes to use it in the ocean, but doesnt spray the motor w/ silicone to protect it from the salt water and it rusts,who is at fault?? The owner who did not take the proper steps in protecting the product knowing the harsh enviroment he would be using it in or the manufacture of the jet ski????) What I am trying to say is that you have to take care of the product and not just bolt it on for a 100000 miles and expect everything to work like it did when it is new, it just doesnt work that way. I suggest users of adjustable coil-over lifts (Sway-A-Way, Camburg, Donahoe, Fabtech etc) routinely clean the suspension components, keep the threads lubricated, maybe even use anti-seize, and use a silicone based spray to coat the shocks to help prevent them from corroding and you should have no problems. Please feel free to contact me, ryan@swayaway.com with any questions or concerns

Thank you for your explanation Ryan........I am in no way trying to condemn Sway Away and maybe it was my fault for not periodically lubricating the adjustment collar,this post is actually useful for others who where unaware such as myself that you have to spray the adjustment collar with a silicone based sprays periodically.

[grumpy]

Thank you for your explanation Ryan........I am in no way trying to condemn Sway Away .

If you have to use a pipe wrench or something that chews up the collar, SAW sells the collars. I had to get a set when I had SAW's

[Big-A]

If you have to use a pipe wrench or something that chews up the collar, SAW sells the collars. I had to get a set when I had SAW's

Really...is it hard/labor intensive to swap the collars out,how much where they?

[sawryan]

Thank you for your explanation Ryan........I am in no way trying to condemn Sway Away and maybe it was my fault for not periodically lubricating the adjustment collar,this post is actually useful for others who where unaware such as myself that you have to spray the adjustment collar with a silicone based sprays periodically.

You had a legitimate problem you needed a solution to, which is fine. I just have to explain everything in great detail and give examples becuase some guys on these boards love to run their mouth about things they have no idea about. Sway-A-Way stands behind its product 100%, and I pride my self on providing the best customer service period, and will do what ever I can to help you guys out.

[ocmike]

You may be right about the rocks and such, But i doubt rocks are ever going to hit between the collar and shock body where the collar is seizing to the body.

I agree, just setting the record straight as far as aluminized steel is concerned. The reality is that corey was right, poor maintenance caused this problem.

[Big-A]

I agree, just setting the record straight as far as aluminized steel is concerned. The reality is that corey was right, poor maintenance caused this problem.

Corey was right shhhhhhhhhhhh dont feed his ego,he will never get out the door lol

[akshunj]

I don't want to start any argument here but I have to wonder if spraying any kind of lubricant on the coilovers is a bad idea? I could see that causing more sand/grit to stick to them and eventually work into the threads and the collar.

[grumpy]

Really...is it hard/labor intensive to swap the collars out,how much where they?
remove coilover from truck. loosen collar remove spring remove collar. its real easy.
I got them from Mike at xtreme offroad. like 15-20 ea.

[Ted]

Thank you for your explanation Ryan........I am in no way trying to condemn Sway Away and maybe it was my fault for not periodically lubricating the adjustment collar,this post is actually useful for others who where unaware such as myself that you have to spray the adjustment collar with a silicone based sprays periodically.


I had a pair of SAW were the collar was sezied on big time. It was PITA to get them removed to rebuilt the shocks. I do a better job of keeping my shocks cleaned after that mess. I coat the collars with anit-seize. I'm may this them off this weekend to see how they are doing.

[Pete]

I don't want to start any argument here but I have to wonder if spraying any kind of lubricant on the coilovers is a bad idea? I could see that causing more sand/grit to stick to them and eventually work into the threads and the collar.

I'm a big fan of Corrosion Block. Leaves a VERY thin protective coating that isn't very attractive to dirt and grime. Plus it works. It's not much of a lubricant either, it's only real function is to stop corrosion. The other option would be Boeshield or Amsoil's similar product, both of which dry to a waxy finish which doesn't really attract dirt either. For any anti-corrosion application, I view WD-40 the same way most people view lift blocks. It's the devil. Better stuff has come out since WD was invented in the 50's.

I'd also like to add when I said "Good luck getting your Sway Aways serviced" it wasn't meant to imply anything about the company's customer service. I should have said "good luck getting warranty service," which would be asking a lot considering the nature of product failure.

[grumpy]

I'm a big fan of Corrosion Block. .

where do you get it at??

[xcmountain80]

Have you tried a lube thats not really a lube called Anti Seize? from what i knoe it is a aluminum derivative in a paste form we use it on bicycles so that steel doesn't bond to aluminum and aluminum to aluminum as well if you get it free i would consider using this in the future http://www.astinfo.com/ you can buy it at home depot or lowes.

Aaron

[ARB1977]

I love my hoes.

[Pete]

Most marine supply stores have it. West Marine, Boaters World, etc. They usually have Boeshield as well. Someone must sell it online somewhere too.

It will wash away if you scrub it or pressure wash it. But it'll hold up for a while in the salt spray from roadways.

[Pete]

I love my hoes.

Give 'em time, they'll rust and/or corrode too. ;)

Seriously, if your in a corrosive enviroment they WILL need to be maintained. Mine do.

I like the anti-seize idea too, that stuff definitely works. Most forms of it seem a little sticky though.

[boophoenix]

Anti-seize is your friend. If you apply it when you install them and maybe once a year after I think that would probably be suffiant to prevent the collar seizing up. Alluminum is really bad about coroding that is why some times when you by plugs for some cars now they come with an anti-corossive product.

With the anti-seize you could wipe the excess the remaing under the collar should be enough to prevent corosion. Reaplication would be fairly easy as well adjust the collar up or down and reaply then return to it original possition. I may get flamed for my opinion here as I do not have coilover yet but are on my soon to purchase items when funds allow. But I do use anti-seize often at one of my jobs and have sworn by it for a long time.

[SEAN_at_TLT]

Well, your right and wrong. Aluminum doesn't rust but Aluminized steel is just steel with a thin coating of aluminum to resist rust. Those shocks are directly in the path of rocks and things of that nature flying at high speed from his and other peoples tires. Penatrate that thin coat and you'll get rust. My aluminized exhaust has rust on it.

Aluminized exhaust is subjected to extreme temperature changes and lots of moisture from the actual exhaust and from condensation, it will always rust. I have never seen a SAW shock body rust, not once. Even so rust would not bond the aluminum collar to the steel shock body as it would two steel parts. That was my point. :) We can play semantics all day...

[DesertTRD]

Aluminized exhaust is subjected to extreme temperature changes and lots of moisture from the actual exhaust and from condensation, it will always rust. I have never seen a SAW shock body rust, not once. Even so rust would not bond the aluminum collar to the steel shock body as it would two steel parts. That was my point. :) We can play semantics all day...
want me to go take some pictures of my rear shocks? Dont tell me they dont rust I have a set...

[DylanICON]

have you tried adjusting them off the truck??
when they are off the truck the top plate is free to rotate with the spring and coller so it has less resistance. once you get them free turning keep them maintained. make sure the nut in the middle doesnt spin off while turning.
also: on anyones coilovers dont over tighten the set screw it will ding the treads and make adjusting harder.
if you have the older style adjuster nut (about 3 years ago) with the split and pinch bolt it can some times be hard to turn if you are in the hole that pulls the split closed, it kinda acts like a strap wrench to grab the cylinder

[rojodiablo]

FYI... Anti sieze is a copper dust encapsulated in heavy bodied polymers. Or, copper coated grease. It is a dissimilar metal alloy, which its true job is to create a different corrosion rate between two working surfaces, while providing a softer metal base to act as a gliding surface upon which 2 different metal alloys may work against each other. WOW... That tasted like ....... Any hoo, It is said clearly in every manure facturers install packet to use the hell out of this great stuff!!! Your mistake is thinking it should be invisible, or your truck is to good to look 'dirty' down there.
Now, as to freeing up this frozen mess. Anyone out there take metal shop???? HEAT THAT THING UP!!!! I recommend leaving it in the truck. Take all the weight off.... Jack it up in the center. Using ONLY propane,mapp type gas, or LOW acetylene heat. Concentrate the heat on the aluminum collar itself, NOT the shock body. It won't glow when it's hot, it is aluminum!!!!!! It will maybe get whitish, at most. If so, it's REALLY HOT. I recommend a minute or so of heat. Spray wd40, liquid rench, etc. after heating. It WILL SMOKE. Liquid rench smells/ smokes worse than wd40. WD40 will burn when you hit it with a torch. Your call. Try to use a spanner, or a pipe wrench to budge the collar after two to 3 cycles of heat to expand the collar. Not too hard... Replace the collar, or just send the whole scorched mess in for service. A better idea. It's a shame so many of you are obviously brilliant in some form, as I see your trucks, yet you are loath to actually inform others on a real fix for a problem. Must be nice to just swipe a credit card and go wheelin' ......

[SEAN_at_TLT]

want me to go take some pictures of my rear shocks? Dont tell me they dont rust I have a set...

What kind of rear shocks do you have?

[ocmike]

Aluminized exhaust is subjected to extreme temperature changes and lots of moisture from the actual exhaust and from condensation, it will always rust. I have never seen a SAW shock body rust, not once. Even so rust would not bond the aluminum collar to the steel shock body as it would two steel parts. That was my point. :) We can play semantics all day...

Well Keep looking there tiger because I have seen rusty saws. And the fact still stands that a piece of aluminized steel will rust if that thin layer of aluminum is penetrated. That would be one more thing to help clog those threads up.

[DesertTRD]

What kind of rear shocks do you have?
swayaways. threaded body.

[SEAN_at_TLT]

Well Keep looking there tiger because I have seen rusty saws. And the fact still stands that a piece of aluminized steel will rust if that thin layer of aluminum is penetrated. That would be one more thing to help clog those threads up.

Okay "Tiger". Of course steel will rust, As other people have said it would be hard for a rock to fly up and chip the part of the shock that's covered by the collar, leading to rust and eventually seizing. I would imagine that all with rust problems have had their shocks for a long time and most likely have gone to Pismo or other sandy/salty environments and not rinsed the truck off afterwards. None of this banter changes the fact that some form of lube be it silicone or anti-seize needs to be applied to all threaded parts regardless shocks or just hardware. Otherwise they might freeze up and if they do it's no ones fault but the owner's.

We have had SAW's on our trucks for as long as three years and taken them all over CA, Baja and even BC, in the snow, in the water and just about everywhere else with zero rust or collars freezing. I have seen the anodizing fade from UV exposure but that's about it.

[DesertTRD]

Okay "Tiger". Of course steel will rust, As other people have said it would be hard for a rock to fly up and chip the part of the shock that's covered by the collar, leading to rust and eventually seizing. I would imagine that all with rust problems have had their shocks for a long time and most likely have gone to Pismo or other sandy/salty environments and not rinsed the truck off afterwards. None of this banter changes the fact that some form of lube be it silicone or anti-seize needs to be applied to all threaded parts regardless shocks or just hardware. Otherwise they might freeze up and if they do it's no ones fault but the owner's.

We have had SAW's on our trucks for as long as three years and taken them all over CA, Baja and even BC, in the snow, in the water and just about everywhere else with zero rust or collars freezing. I have seen the anodizing fade from UV exposure but that's about it.
your right the collar wont rust but the rust will get between teh collar and the shock tube and the rust will sieze it up... this is the problem at hand. And road grime can work its way down in there, this topic is overdone.. its not saws fault for the user not protecting the product. I dont expect toyota to cover my paint job because I dont wash it for 7 years and it fades and peels... plain and simple. YOu of all people should know what not taking care of high dollar components means. (more money)

[akshunj]

I'm a big fan of Corrosion Block. Leaves a VERY thin protective coating that isn't very attractive to dirt and grime. Plus it works. It's not much of a lubricant either, it's only real function is to stop corrosion. For any anti-corrosion application, I view WD-40 the same way most people view lift blocks. It's the devil. Better stuff has come out since WD was invented in the 50's.


Wd40 works well for what it was intended for, displacing water. As for the anti corrosion treatment I've never tried it. I live in Mass. where we get a lot more snow than you see in Newport and the salt to go along with it. I've found that with frequent washing of the undercarriage you can avoid most corrosion you'll see. If I spent $1k on some coilovers then maybe I'd be more concerned.

What kind of corrosion block are you using or is it the name brand?

[Pete]

Wd40 works well for what it was intended for, displacing water. As for the anti corrosion treatment I've never tried it. I live in Mass. where we get a lot more snow than you see in Newport and the salt to go along with it. I've found that with frequent washing of the undercarriage you can avoid most corrosion you'll see. If I spent $1k on some coilovers then maybe I'd be more concerned.

What kind of corrosion block are you using or is it the name brand?

Yeah, WD does what it does. Everyone just expects it to do more then it does.

As for corrosion, I have salt air and spray on my truck 12 months a year. ;)

Seriously though, Corrosion Block (http://www.learchem.com/C.B.Page.htm) works magic in a marine enviroment and everywhere else.

It's one of only a few products that stops corrosion instead of just guarding against it. A lot of stuff we spray on rust actually seals in water as well as the electrolysis that has already begun.

I've done well fighting off corrosion the same way you have, lots of washing the under carraige.

Hope to be wheeling with you and the few other NE TTORA guys come spring time akshunJ. There's not much wheeling to be had down here on the coast besides beaches. :rolleyes:

[akshunj]

Aluminum does not rust. Anyone who thinks it will needs a lesson in chemistry.

[akshunj]

I'll have to check that stuff out. Keep an eye on the NE forum for wheeling. I've been gone most of the year so I missed out on any trips this year. I used to live in R.I. I lived in North Kingstown and then in North Smithfield before I moved to Mass. It's nice there, but the electronic industry is non existant in RI and I figured why pay taxes in two different states?

[KStacoma]

My fabtechs did this and all it took was one single email and their customer service sent totally brand new collars, rings, and set screws no questions asked.

[norcaltacoma]

yes i actually have this exact same problem with my SAW's. went to adjust them last week and wound up bending the spanner wrench. i cleaned them real good and sprayed them with CORROSION X. really good stuff, has anyone heard of it?

im going to try and adjust them next week and ill go from there

[hytenor]

I have Sway Aways and the aluminum adjustment collars have frozen up from road salt,dirt,and road grime. So that pretty much defeats the purpose of spending 625.00 on adjustable coilovers and they dont adjust,that isnt cool! Every time I go to the snow I wash my truck the next day,I usually am very good about washing my entire truck and my visible suspension components

The main problem I am having is my suspension is stuck on 3" of lift and I am blowing boots faster than I can change them,I have already gone through one spanner wrench trying to crank them down without success,and yes I have tried every lubricant out there with no luck,and still no luck!

Is anyone else having the same problem??

geeze, I went through this whole thread and only Grumpy had the right call, LOL

dude, just get an allen wrench and loosen the collar a little. spray a little wd or silicone in there and wrench away. I have the same coilovers and the same problem; this has been working fine for me. O, don't forget to re-tighten that allen bolt.

sheesh, kids...;)

[akshunj]

geeze, I went through this whole thread and only Grumpy had the right call, LOL

dude, just get an allen wrench and loosen the collar a little. spray a little wd or silicone in there and wrench away. I have the same coilovers and the same problem; this has been working fine for me. O, don't forget to re-tighten that allen bolt.

sheesh, kids...;)
Does that allen bolt hold the collar in place on the SAW's? If so I would have though it was already loosened and the pipe wrench was the way to go.

[Big-A]

geeze, I went through this whole thread and only Grumpy had the right call, LOL

dude, just get an allen wrench and loosen the collar a little. spray a little wd or silicone in there and wrench away. I have the same coilovers and the same problem; this has been working fine for me. O, don't forget to re-tighten that allen bolt.

sheesh, kids...;)

heheh...you gotta love us ;)

I have tried everything imaginable,I have bought like 6 kinds of lubricants and still nothing works! Thats okay though.........I was just given a company work truck to drive home everyday weeeeeeeeeeeeeeee no more raking up miles,balding 33's and blown cv boots weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee lol

[hytenor]

Does that allen bolt hold the collar in place on the SAW's? If so I would have though it was already loosened and the pipe wrench was the way to go.

you have to know Anthony ;)

[Big-A]

you have to know Anthony ;)


lmaoYou Dorkis,I actually removed the allen set screw on the collar and sprayed stuff inside and still nothing! Meee noooo stooopid heheh ;)

[hytenor]

lmaoYou Dorkis,I actually removed the allen set screw on the collar and sprayed stuff inside and still nothing! Meee noooo stooopid heheh ;)

you pulled that screw and the coil didn't go "SPRROINGGGG" and kirw you??

[Big-A]

you pulled that screw and the coil didn't go "SPRROINGGGG" and kirw you??

LMAO....only you Chris, I swear :lmao:

[akshunj]

you have to know Anthony ;)
lol, it looks like he tried it though. Pipe wrench it is!

[Donahoe]

You will have the same problem on the Donahoes, Fabtech, etc. if you do not take the steps to preotect your investment. Donahoe use a steel body which is plated and an aluminum adjust nut that has been annodized just like all of the other manufactures of adjustable coil-over

Your right Ryan it is Very important to keep up on these coil-overs. Hiems are a big issue with rusting as well. Road grime and dirt play a big factor as well for making tight threads sticky. Try your best to keep your shocks clean. One thing that works well is solvent or mineral spirts because it dosnt attract dirt like w-d 40 or other lubricants can. Plus solvent can help to break down salt deposits already forming on your shocks.

Hope that helps