It has begun!!!

[Alan11116]

Well, my truck is on jackstands and missing everything from the front end. Marshall, Logan, Greg and I got after it Saturday morning and got all of the IFS stuff cut out and started on the frame rails. We worked at it pretty hard till about 6 or so Saturday night before we were worn out. Marshall kept at it even after the rest of us left and got the driver side frame ready to start plating. We worked on the passenger side yesterday and it still needs some attention. Parts are beginning to trickle in and should start getting fun from here.

Logan was a man on a mission Saturday with getting brackets and crossmembers cut out of there while the rest of us took turns rolling on the floor and slinging sparks all over Marshall's garage. Then he has to make the trip back to Montgomery. Thanks for all the help guys. Non of this would have even had a chance of being possible without the help and planning from ya'll.

I'll keep this updated with progress and get some pictures up hopefully sooner than later.

[TRoss]

Another IFS bites the dust!! Cool!!

[Logan]

Glad to be able to help!!! I would have stayed for sunday also, but I had an important meeting with Def Leppard. Looking forward to helping more as it progresses!!

[gregers05]

np i always enjoy cutting other peoples shat....especially yours!(although i would rather be cutting mine). kinda sucks i wont be able to help/watch the fun parts though. i took like to pictures with my phone that ill post when i get home tonight

[silvertoy]

Congrats for taking the plunge Alan, let's see some pics of the pizzazzer progress when you get a chance.

[gregers05]

heres the two pics that we have and they are from my cell phone so they arent the best quality but you get whats going on


this is what happens when logan gets near your truck...
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i199/gregers05/0322081719.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i199/gregers05/0322081810.jpg

[Alan11116]

Congrats for taking the plunge Alan, let's see some pics of the pizzazzer progress when you get a chance.

thanks Thad! this thing will have even more pizzaz before you know it!

[Alan11116]

Update. Today Chris Ivey and I got the oil pan swapped and frame plates cut for the front.

[Mossyrocks]

bout damn time alan. Ive been wanting to wheel with you in a swapped truck... Should get interesting.

[Alan11116]

bout damn time alan. Ive been wanting to wheel with you in a swapped truck... Should get interesting.

I'm getting excited man! I was talking to Josh the other night and told him I was gonna send you 2 a gas card to get you down here and put a wrench in your hands!

[REDTACOtjm123]

nah. you will just have to remind me which gear I am in!

haha, hey alan which axle are you using?

[Alan11116]

haha, hey alan which axle are you using?

Full width Dana 44 from a '78 F-150.

[TRoss]

Full width Dana 44 from a '78 F-150.

Ah, cool... and I just figured it was waggy.
So some serious spacers out back?

[gregers05]

nah. you will just have to remind me which gear I am in!

im going to get you a shock collar so i can shock you when you arent in the right gear. ...and probably most other times just because it would be fun

[Alan11116]

Ah, cool... and I just figured it was waggy.
So some serious spacers out back?

yeah Ted. 1.5" spacers on each side in the rear.

[Alan11116]

im going to get you a shock collar so i can shock you when you arent in the right gear. ...and probably most other times just because it would be fun

I need something!

[Phil88]

Looks great,hurry up and get it done so we can beat on it.That things gonna look killer with that wide stance,cant wait. Mines goin under the torch in 2 more weeks:welder: . just got my steering box yesterday only thing left for me to get is a pan, and a buncha hardware.

[Alan11116]

Looks great,hurry up and get it done so we can beat on it.That things gonna look killer with that wide stance,cant wait. Mines goin under the torch in 2 more weeks:welder: . just got my steering box yesterday only thing left for me to get is a pan, and a buncha hardware.

I am ready to get it finished. The good thing is that Marshall has been gracious enough to let me put gas in his F-150 while we are working on mine so that we can take our time and "hopefully" do it correctly. I am really excited about it being wide and hopefully I will be able to keep it low too! It already feels stable on the trail as it is now. I can't wait for the wider stance! I will have Kyle's old steering box that is already taped for hydro. I got all my oil pan stuff from Dallas Toyota. That was easy to install.

[crawlrunner]

Awsome Alan!!!! Damn Marshall is a good friend to have!

Between U and Phil I look forward to our SA35"+ group growing! It's worth the effort guys we really have a lot of fun too.

[Alan11116]

Awsome Alan!!!! Damn Marshall is a good friend to have!

Between U and Phil I look forward to our SA35"+ group growing! It's worth the effort guys we really have a lot of fun too.

for sure on all of the above! I forgot to call you back earlier. I have seen that article. Between you trying to talk me into doing that and Kyle trying to talk me into buying a D60 that he found Marshall might not wanna be my friend for much longer!

[GOT COPE?]

for sure on all of the above! I forgot to call you back earlier. I have seen that article. Between you trying to talk me into doing that and Kyle trying to talk me into buying a D60 that he found Marshall might not wanna be my friend for much longer!

i didnt wanna rain on your 6 lug parade, but i figured it wasnt too bad an idea to find a same width 8 lug 60 to match your 44. but then you'd be the only idiot running around with 32 lug nuts :D at least by staying 6 lug and many of us now having 35's some of us can leave the spare tires at camp :) Id love to shed mine, especially since it has free run of the bed :rolleyes:

[link817]

So Alan, what is a quick run down of what you are doing? D44 front w/ hydro, waggy springs? etc..

[Mossyrocks]

yeah Ted. 1.5" spacers on each side in the rear.


Same thing I did. Now they're in the front...

[Alan11116]

So Alan, what is a quick run down of what you are doing? D44 front w/ hydro, waggy springs? etc..

Full width D44 from a '78 F-150, 4:88s, lockrite, hi-steer, Parts Mike knuckles and spindles, etc. Kyle's steering box already tapped. Front Range SAS kit, make a drive shaft and steering shaft. Lots of MYMOR fab work! Nothing extremely special. Typical build as others for the most part. Shafts and u-joints are stock for now. That'll be fine with the 35s. Just have to wait on the rear till we see exactly where the front is gonna sit at ride height. Hopefully it won't be much higher than where it sits now. I am looking forward to it being low and wide.

[Alan11116]

Finally your getting around to using that axle. I have some 6 to 8 lug adapters if you wanna run 8 lug wheels.

Yeah man. Finally! I am gonna run 6 lug so it will be easy to swap out spare tires on the trail with others.

[Alan11116]

Update. On Friday Chris and Matt pretty much worked some magic and got the 8 lug pieces taken off of the axle before we loaded it and took it over to Marshall's. The driver side steering knuckle was really on there. So on Saturday morning, Marshall's dad came over with the torch set so we could heat it up and then knock the snot out of it with a hammer and it finally came out. After that Marshall and I measured for about 2 plus hours before we got the spring hanger tacked up on the frame. Colin came over for the afternoon and we burned the old bushings out of the springs and started mocking up where the shackles and springs would hang. Thanks Chris, Matt, Marshall and Colin!

[Maddog096]

No Problem glad to help out. It was better than going to work anyway.

[Alan11116]

No Problem glad to help out. It was better than going to work anyway.

now we just need to build the axle with the 6 lug stuff!

[sloppytaco]

now we just need to build the axle with the 6 lug stuff!

I'm off on Thursday and Friday this week if you would like to build the 6 lug.

[Alan11116]

I'm off on Thursday and Friday this week if you would like to build the 6 lug.

yeah man! that'd be great if it fits into your schedule and you don't have anything going already. just let me know. thanks!

[Alan11116]

Updates?

Hey Ted. Sorry. For a while there wasn't much to report. Everytime we thought we were going to make progress there was some unexpected obstacle to deal with. Spring perchs in the wrong spot, wrong spring bushings being shipped twice. We figured that out and MYMOR fabbed them our own way. Having to redo some of the axle building. Thanks Chris and Matt! Anyway, as of last night the truck sits on all 4s again with no jack stands and on it's own weight. The spring hanger has been final welded and gusseted and reinforced to the frame. The shackle hanger has been final welded and spaced inside the framerails to get the correct width from the hanger. This was a pain and lengthy process to be honest. The shackles hangers only sit on about half of the framerails and half inside the frame. Marshall cut some plates to weld to the frame and then butted the shackle hanger to the plates so there would be a full flat surface for them to mount to. Then gussets were added to the mounting plate and frame. They aren't going anywhere! We got the passenger side shock hoop welded in too. Didn't mess with the driver side till we get the steering box mounted. As for that, I am getting ready to call Bud and order a flat pitman arm. Flat because the truck is only sitting about 1 to 1.5" higher than it was before all this started. That was the goal to keep it low and wide and that is what we have got. I am very happy with that! Still need to do the steering, brakes and little things here and there. Marshall made the comment last night about how good it is to actually see parts going back onto the truck! You got dang right!

[Alan11116]

pictures!

ps lemme know if ya'll need any help.

we keep talking about pictures but for the longest time it just looked like a truck on jackstands with just doing alot of prep work. everybody knows what that looks like. I'll try to get some though. I will let ya know when I do need a hand. Still got some things to go. thanks dude! Remind me to show you the fabbed up spring bushings.

[Alan11116]

Good deal man! Sounds like it's almost done.

it's getting alot closer Ted. ordered the front shocks yesterday. gonna call Bud again today and order some FJ80 TREs and bungs to make the tie rod and drag link.

[GOT COPE?]

we keep talking about pictures but for the longest time it just looked like a truck on jackstands with just doing alot of prep work. everybody knows what that looks like. I'll try to get some though. I will let ya know when I do need a hand. Still got some things to go. thanks dude! Remind me to show you the fabbed up spring bushings.

thats no excuse! we just want pictures. for all we know your truck could still have the IFS on it :D jk

yeah, call me and i'll come check it out, id love to see the progress.

[Mossyrocks]

Im guessing the bushings were too small?

2" 1/4" wall dom in the springs, bushings fit right in.

[Alan11116]

Im guessing the bushings were too small?

2" 1/4" wall dom in the springs, bushings fit right in.

bingo!

[Alan11116]

Okay where is the updates? Is it driving yet?

The steering box is in. The tie rod is in. Need to put your drop pitman arm back on after putting the new springs in. Need to finish the drag link. Figure out a way to get your IFS steering shaft to mate to my steering shaft. Got that changed to a single u-joint shaft on Friday. Weld in the driver shock hoop. Put the shocks in. Put the radiator back in. Install brake lines and bleed the brakes. Add fluids everywhere. Put spacers on the rear axle. That is pretty much it. Probably a couple little things here and there. Finish painting, etc. But it's real close. Still need to make a front DS and figure out what to do about rear springs after we see where the front springs will sit. That will come after it's on the road though.

[Mossyrocks]

The steering box is in. The tie rod is in. Need to put your drop pitman arm back on after putting the new springs in. Need to finish the drag link. Figure out a way to get your IFS steering shaft to mate to my steering shaft. Got that changed to a single u-joint shaft on Friday. Weld in the driver shock hoop. Put the shocks in. Put the radiator back in. Install brake lines and bleed the brakes. Add fluids everywhere. Put spacers on the rear axle. That is pretty much it. Probably a couple little things here and there. Finish painting, etc. But it's real close. Still need to make a front DS and figure out what to do about rear springs after we see where the front springs will sit. That will come after it's on the road though.


you know what sucks?... Right about the time youll be done mines goin under the knife.

[Alan11116]

you know what sucks?... Right about the time youll be done mines goin under the knife.

I saw on Pirate that you were gonna do that. You TN dudes just can't leave it alone can ya? What all are you gonna do? I'm sure it will turn out awesome though!

[GOT COPE?]

slooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooow












:p jk

last i heard a few days ago:
brakelines
steering shaft
weld on d-side shock hoop
mount shocks
install radiator
add all appropriate fluids

[Alan11116]

well, I pulled the truck out of the garage yesterday under it's own power. Marshall and I drove it around the neighborhood for a bit. Steering, brakes, etc felt good so we felt it was safe enough to put it on the highway and go get some celebration beer. Drove it home last night. May have gotten up to 55 but that might have been pushing it. No vibes, shakes or death wobble. Still need to make a front DS, do bumpstops, let the front end settle before we mess with the rear, tie up the brake lines better than with zip ties, protect the radiator, and probably some little tweaks here and there. Thanks to everybody who came over and helped out with this project! I really appreciate it! I'll take some pictures later.

[sloppytaco]

Congrats on the build! Can't wait to see how it turned out.

[link817]

Great to hear man!

[TRoss]

Good deal! Lets see some pics of that pig!

[ATLRoach]

Man those springs need to settle. If not I have some chevys for the rear.

[sloppytaco]

What is the part number on the front bilstein shocks?

[Alan11116]

Kyle, Yeah! They do need to settle! I'm sure they will with some driving around.

Chris, not sure of a part number. I could probably find one. Do you need it for something? They are the 12" 5125s with medium valving. I also have some brand new 14" that I am just waiting to see if I am going to need to swap them in. The 12s were already opened so I just put them in for now.

[ATLRoach]

That is alot of shaft showing.. Looks like you may need the 14s.

[Alan11116]

I'm sure I probably will need the 14s. The 12s were already set and ready to slap on when the time came and knew it would still be a while before it saw any trails so that's what we threw in to get it on the road.

[silvertoy]

That is alot of shaft showing...

How do you think Alan gets all the ladies? Hah, I know, dirty joke.

Good looking job you did there Alan. Congrats.

[04 Rocko Taco]

Looks good Alan, can't wait to see the final stance once the springs settle. Whats your ground to frame measurement now?

[Alan11116]

thanks guys! Chris, I'm not sure where everybody is taking their measurements from. I was trying to find the thread on the NB about "who has the lowest SAC rig" but can't find it.

[04 Rocko Taco]

Alan from everything I have read you measure directly under the door handle. from ground to frame, no crossmembers, just to the actual frame.

[GOT COPE?]

I always measure to the bottom of the frame directly under the body mount behind the front wheels.

[Alan11116]

25 1/4" from ground to frame under the door handle.

[04 Rocko Taco]

anywhere on the flat part of the frame is fine.

[Alan11116]

now seem to be getting a "clunk" type sound from the driver side and the steering box seems to be leaking a bit.

[04 Rocko Taco]

time to crawl back under the panty dropper.

25 1/4 really isnt that tall.

I know Brad wheeled his at 24" to frame on his 37's I know your tires arent that big, so maybe your truck is a bit tall, Brad says you cant get much lower than 24" (on 37's) with leaf springs.
He is hoping for 24" with his new link setup and 40's.

[Alan11116]

yeah. I am hoping that it will settle some with some driving. I'm sure it will though. Mine has got 35s.

[Alan11116]

I always measure to the bottom of the frame directly under the body mount behind the front wheels.

25 3/4" in the garage directly under the passenger body mount.

[sloppytaco]

now seem to be getting a "clunk" type sound from the driver side and the steering box seems to be leaking a bit.

Is the clunk noise when you are rolling, when you turn, or rolling and turning?

[Marshytaco]

now seem to be getting a "clunk" type sound from the driver side and the steering box seems to be leaking a bit.

Quick fix for that, turn the radio UP!!! I WANNA ROCK!!!! I know you have Twisted Sister in there, now turn it up...

[Alan11116]

Quick fix for that, turn the radio UP!!! I WANNA ROCK!!!! I know you have Twisted Sister in there, now turn it up...

that CD is in your truck.

[Phil88]

Go find you some speedbumps somewhere and thatll do the trick with the springs. Looks like were in about the same progress,all i need is my driveshaft and im ready to wheel. Although im gonna put a 1 ton mastercylinder in before i hit the trail also. that clunks probly got to do something in the springs or shackle one...gl with it and let me know when you get that thing wheelable so we can go test these jokers out.

[Alan11116]

Is the clunk noise when you are rolling, when you turn, or rolling and turning?

I think it's the steering box. Steering fluid all over the box and on the driver spring. Question for ya. On your steering shaft, at the rag joint, can you grab it and push it kinda from passenger side to driver side? I can a little on mine but not sure if it is just the u-joint in there.

[GOT COPE?]

19.5" so you have about 9" of lift over stock height.

i think.

[Alan11116]

Go find you some speedbumps somewhere and thatll do the trick with the springs. Looks like were in about the same progress,all i need is my driveshaft and im ready to wheel. Although im gonna put a 1 ton mastercylinder in before i hit the trail also. that clunks probly got to do something in the springs or shackle one...gl with it and let me know when you get that thing wheelable so we can go test these jokers out.

will do Phil. It's been way too long since I've been!

[Alan11116]

looks like the leak is coming from the hole on the top of the box where it was tapped for hydro steer. I need to get an Allen wrench that is the right size to know for sure.

[sloppytaco]

I think it's the steering box. Steering fluid all over the box and on the driver spring. Question for ya. On your steering shaft, at the rag joint, can you grab it and push it kinda from passenger side to driver side? I can a little on mine but not sure if it is just the u-joint in there.

I am able to move it ever so slightly from side to side. The clunk for me was the ubolts needed to be torqued more.

[gregers05]

sweet man that thing looks pretty good! cant wait to see it in person. i think we need to get together a meet and greet before summer ends again

[GaTaco]

Damn nice Alan! Is that a full width ford d44?

[Alan11116]

I am able to move it ever so slightly from side to side. The clunk for me was the ubolts needed to be torqued more.

thanks Chris. I think the noise I am getting is steering box related. I'll double check the u-bolts too. Probably should after driving it anyway.

[Alan11116]

Damn nice Alan! Is that a full width ford d44?

thanks Wes! Yes, full width out of a '78 F-150.

[ATLRoach]

time to crawl back under the panty dropper.

25 1/4 really isnt that tall.

I know Brad wheeled his at 24" to frame on his 37's I know your tires arent that big, so maybe your truck is a bit tall, Brad says you cant get much lower than 24" (on 37's) with leaf springs.
He is hoping for 24" with his new link setup and 40's.

Really.. that is rear mount shackle or leaf over. There are a few out there that are lower I can list at least 5.

[Alan11116]

So what did you find out since you called me last?

I put teflon tape on that plug and made a lap around the neighborhood. It's still leaking.

[ATLRoach]

At the plug? got a pic?

[Alan11116]

honestly. I can't be 100% sure if it is that plug or not. I'll try to take a clean fluid free pic. of that plug and then a pic. of it in a bit after it has had time to leak. Hold on a minute.

[gregers05]

i posted this on your national board thread too, but you could try using some silicone, but if its a constant leak idk that you will be able to get it to stick properly.


btw the spare you gave me has finally had it, the bubble popped and is leaking air pretty bad....sad day:( i might get a tire plug kit to try to repair it lol

[TRoss]

Looks mean!
What size tars you put'in on?

[Alan11116]

Looks mean!
What size tars you put'in on?

thanks! we will see how mean it is once everything is squared away. I'm just gonna stick with the 35s that are on it for now.

[ATLRoach]

red teflon tape it.

[Marshytaco]

this is about an hour later.

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn207/Alan11116_photo/AlansTruck014.jpg

There's your problem, it's clearly leaking right there...
But in all seriousness, are you sure that the plug is the right thread??? What's below it when you take the plug out? Anything or is just a hole? I ask because sometimes when I have plugged things, like a brake line port I wasn't using, I put a small piece of rubber (an outdoor hose inside gasket cut in a small piece) in the hole to help keep tension on the plug when it was tighened and that stopped my leak in that particular case. You could always try some silicone sealant on the plug too but if you need to take it out later, it might be difficult to say the least.

[Alan11116]

red teflon tape it.

that's what I did earlier. does this make any sense to you? or any suggestions? this is what Bear said.

Originally Posted by Bear
NPT= national pipe thread. you need to use automotive grade hardware, the pitch of the threads is different as well as the same size diameter of similar parts are not the same size even though it might say 1/8th inch, it is not the same 1/8th inch in the automotive grade stuff.


as for the depth of the porting, you should be completely threw the gear box wall completely. that means the tap should have been ran all the way down. If you had the tapped hole partially done, (someone correct me if I am wrong) the fitting is not seating properly forming a complete seal between the two surfaces.

thanks again! the box was running hydro before and these are the plugs I was given to button it up till I get around to running hydro. any suggestions for a plug that will work for now?

[Alan11116]

yeah, Marshall. I don't know if it's the right thread or not. I'd like to know that I have the right thread in there before I try to seal it with the rubber type piece you were talking about.

[Alan11116]

Kyle, do you know what the thread size, etc is for that hole?

[ATLRoach]

Kyle, do you know what the thread size, etc is for that hole?

I wanna say it's 1/4" pipe.. or maybe #6 JIC. Trail-gear sold the plugs extra with the kit. Let me look for the write up Greg and I used and I will know know for sure.

[Alan11116]

I wanna say it's 1/4" pipe.. or maybe #6 JIC. Trail-gear sold the plugs extra with the kit. Let me look for the write up Greg and I used and I will know know for sure.

10-4. thanks dude! did what Bear said make sense to you?

[ATLRoach]

It was ¼” NPT.. Also I have no idea wtf Bear is talking about you are only to go into the channel right there on the top. Any way here is the write up we followed to the T.
http://www.wildyoats.com/hydraulic_assist_tech.htm

[Alan11116]

It was ¼” NPT.. Also I have no idea wtf Bear is talking about you are only to go into the channel right there on the top. Any way here is the write up we followed to the T.
http://www.wildyoats.com/hydraulic_assist_tech.htm

thanks. can I get a new bolt at a parts store or do I need to order one from Trail Gear? does it need to be a certain length?

[crawlrunner]

Looks good! I think U need a steering stabilizer? Let's wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeel that thing soon!

[GOT COPE?]

I wanna say it's 1/4" pipe.. or maybe #6 JIC. Trail-gear sold the plugs extra with the kit. Let me look for the write up Greg and I used and I will know know for sure.

the hydro adapter I pulled out of that hole before plugging it with the fittings alan gave me was #6 JIC

i think. <<disclaimer

[Phil88]

Im not up to date on the whole taping the box but.. If there is nothing behind that alan screw to give it tension like a flared joint or anything, then its not gonna get pressure until it makes contact or like a regular bolt head would when the head hits the outside of the box. I guess it depends on the tap itself. Like if the tap is the same thread thickness all the way threw then youll have to either have a regular bolt or a nut on that alan screw right?.. or am i just another nut with no solution to your prob?

[ATLRoach]

the hydro adapter I pulled out of that hole before plugging it with the fittings alan gave me was #6 JIC

i think. <<disclaimer

Yeah it was 1/4" NPT to 6# JIC.

[Alan11116]

Yeah it was 1/4" NPT to 6# JIC.

Kyle, kinda like Phil was saying, is it too long for that hole? Do I need to try to find one that is shorter?

[TRoss]

After reading the Ntl board... and Kyle's reply, it's what I suspected. Depth of drill is critical. So.. if a new or low profile NPT plug won't solve the problem you will probably have to re-tap the hole with a ground 1/4" NPT tap so the plug will get proper engagment.

Just so you know. NPT threads are tappered. If you have a fitting, look close.. it will tapper smaller at one end, getting slightly larger toward the hex or allen. If the port is drilled shallow (which seems to be the case to keep from breaking into another passage) you'll have to grind the end of an NPT tap so it is shorter allowing you to get the proper engagement. Again, I'd try a low profile plug first if you can find one (Granger or Northern Tool should have it) In fact.. lemme look around in some of my junk, I may have one.

Hope this helps...

[Alan11116]

that is good info. Ted! thanks. I just put a new plug in there and it is the same length as the other one. I will check it in about an hour and see if that one is leaking. hopefully not! if you do happen to run across one please let me know. There is a Northern Tool up the street from me though. I didn't notice if the new one was tappered or not. I'm almost wanting to say that it isn't.

[Alan11116]

well, just over an hour later and it doesn't seem to be leaking. I'll keep an eye on it and probably drive it around the neighborhood in a little while. anybody know of a good way to take out a little extra ATF fluid other than breaking some lines open?

[Phil88]

syringe or empty gear oil bottle ??

[98taco4x]

http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1296899#post1296899

[TRoss]

Looked around and couldn't find one. It may be little harder to buy than I figured. Had some running around to do and the local industrial pipe store didn't have it, nor a couple other places I went to.

Other option might be a brass plug, it may conform the threads a bit better, especially if you put some "umph" behind it when tightening...

Maybe that new plug will fix it!!

[Alan11116]

Looked around and couldn't find one. It may be little harder to buy than I figured. Had some running around to do and the local industrial pipe store didn't have it, nor a couple other places I went to.

Other option might be a brass plug, it may conform the threads a bit better, especially if you put some "umph" behind it when tightening...

Maybe that new plug will fix it!!

thanks for your efforts Ted! I do appreciate it! still have my fingers crossed but upon first glance it seems to be holding. it hasn't leaked any in about 3.5 hours and I just took it around the neighborhood and the springs and box are not covered in fluid the way they were yesterday. hopefully, my $2.50 bolt and trip to the parts store was the answer.

[TRoss]

Good deal. Looked like that thing was bleeding like a stuck pig!!

So what size tars? How are you matching up the rear width?

[crawlrunner]

U must drive it around on curvy road to tell for sure 'Grashopa'. Then put stabilizer on it, start it up on concrete and turn steering wheel from lock to lock a bunch, then & only then, can u be sure ur leak is fixed. Smokey leaks a bit too when really worked at MM.

[Alan11116]

Good deal. Looked like that thing was bleeding like a stuck pig!!

So what size tars? How are you matching up the rear width?

I'm gonna stick with the 35s that are on it for now. I got 1.5" rear spacers on each side.

[Alan11116]

U must drive it around on curvy road to tell for sure 'Grashopa'. Then put stabilizer on it, start it up on concrete and turn steering wheel from lock to lock a bunch, then & only then, can u be sure ur leak is fixed. Smokey leaks a bit too when really worked at MM.

I will do that after I get back from the weekend. I just wanted to see if it was still leaking when I drove around the neighborhood. It wasn't unlike Tuesday and Wednesday. I need to start checking into who makes a steering stabilizer for a D44.

[crawlrunner]

They are a pretty easy install and mine goes from drag link to frame independent of the axle. Just make sure U get a big beefy one, there are some tiny little hotdog sized ones out there that would be useless w/them big tars! TG has a good kit.

[1moreyota]

Alan,

I know that I'm kinda late on this reply, but I should have a couple of extra 1/4" npt/JIC #6 plugs floating around. If you need one just let me know. By the way, I got mine at Gainesville Rubber and Gasket for stupid cheap (Ted, this place is in your neighborhood and it rocks. They have gone way out of their way to help me out, have a bunch of stuff in stock, and will get most anything not in stock in short order). Alan, you might be able to find a hydraulic shop or hydraulic fitting place in your neck of the woods that has this part in stock.

I tapped one port of my box a tad deep and ended up grinding a little bit off the head of the JIC plug to make a good fit. The first time I installed my plug I must have cross threaded it and it leaked like a sieve. I ended up pulling it out, wrapping it in thread tape and rockin on. It still leaked a bit even after I put on the tape. Later when I was installing my cooler I put in a bunch of Lucas power steering fluid which is supposed to help stop leaks. I guess that my steering is a patchwork of band-aids but it doesn't leak at all now...plus it fits in fabulously with the rest of my truck which is held together with zip ties, ratchet straps, and duct tape.

If you need to buy a 1/4" NPT tap, go to an automotive store like NAPA because it's really difficult to find this tap at a standard hardware store. Also, I have been told by a couple of folks smarter than I that one can carefully weld the seam between the plug and the steering box. Of course this would be a last ditch effort before throwing the whole box away.

[TRoss]

Good to know... wouldn't have thought they'd carry fittings.

[Alan11116]

Hey Chris, thanks for the info. I went to Advance a few or so ago and bought a new 1/4" NPT fitting for $2.49. Brought it home and put it in the box. I haven't found a single leak out of the box at this point and I have been looking for it. I have driven the truck around the neighborhood and nothing where as before there was fluid all over the box and leaking onto the springs by the time I got back into my garage. I drove the truck over to Marshall's house and back last weekend and still nothing. That's 50 mile round trip. I'll continue to keep an eye on it and thanks for the info.

[Mossyrocks]

Alan, I used a rancho stabilzer for a dodge 3500 that I bought off summit. Worked nicely.

[Alan11116]

How the springs doing?

I get them to squat down a little when I stack the floor board with dumbbells and the stinger with 45lb plates. When I drove it over the weekend they were obviously softer for the ride, not as stiff, but they are still kinda tall. Right now the driver side is at 24.75" with 170lbs. in the floorboard. The passenger side is at 25.25" with about 200lbs. in the floorboard and 90lbs. sitting on the stinger.

[Alan11116]

What about pulling some leafs?

I've thought about it but that sounds like work!

[1moreyota]

Alan, I used a rancho stabilzer for a dodge 3500 that I bought off summit. Worked nicely.

I just hopped onto this thread yesterday and have only read the last few posts so I'm sorry if I'm a few steps behind you guys but my thinking is that you shouldn't really need a stabilizer if you're running hydroassist...right?

[GOT COPE?]

he's not running hydro, the box is just tapped for it.

[Alan11116]

I was reading on another board and saw a vendor mention to take the shocks off and go drive around at a slow/neighborhood type speed for a mile or 2 to get the springs to settle. Well, I did that. Drove about 1.5 miles and over some speed bumps and the settled almost .5" when I measured after pulling back into the garage. Kinda feels like a trampoline with no shocks and speed bumps.

[ATLRoach]

cool so what are you at now under the body at the front of the door?

[Alan11116]

25.25" on the driver side and 25.75" on the passenger side with no weight in the truck. I'm taking the measurments from the garage floor to the frame right at the body mount bolt. I have 180 lbs. in the DS flooroboard and 220 lbs. in the PS floorboard and 90 lbs. on the stinger and it brings it down about another .75" I am "guessing" that is about 125-150 less than what would be in the cab with 2 people and tools, etc for a wheeling trip. They seem to slowly keep settling little by little and I haven't even stretched the springs out yet. If I can get to the 24" mark with a loaded cab at ride height, I'll start to be happy.

[GOT COPE?]

they are going to be welded to the slider and bumper on each side.

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand braced to the shock tower. ;)

[Alan11116]

well my pinion angle stinks! we hoped that the knuckles had been rotated correctly when it was under a Tacoma previously but apparently they weren't. we made the front driveshaft over the weekend and the pinion is not angled towards the diff enough to mate up to the DS. anybody have any suggestions to remedy this short of pulling the axle back out and rotating the knuckles?

[crawlrunner]

Well double up the txfr ca$e and it pushes the front drive flange atleast 6" back. All it takes is more $$$$ & wrenching &:saw: &:welder:

[Alan11116]

Well double up the txfr ca$e and it pushes the front drive flange atleast 6" back. All it takes is more $$$$ & wrenching &:saw: &:welder:

man I wish! I think we are gonna try some shims on the spring pack.

[4inT100]

gotta be careful with the steering joint angles.

[gregers05]

man I wish! I think we are gonna try some shims on the spring pack.

thats what i was going to suggest

[ATLRoach]

man I wish! I think we are gonna try some shims on the spring pack.

Shims are not a good idea for the front.

[Alan11116]

Shims are not a good idea for the front.

well I've gotten mixed opinions about that. some say is alright some say "no." you think it's best to have to knuckles rotated? or any other suggestions? some guys have gotten away with not rotating them. I wish I know how Luby ran that axle under his truck but he hasn't been on the board since April for me to ask him. why do you say it's not a good idea?

[ATLRoach]

Added caster will cause it to wonder on the road. Just rotate the bastard and call it a day.

[4inT100]

If you're needing help that badly I'll volunteer (if I can find the gas). I R gud with cutting devices...just not the ones that put it back together.

[4inT100]

You need better CV's :D

[STOMPER]

How about a cv? Ya think it would help.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=960229&postcount=6

[Mossyrocks]

forgot to mention, one thing that will change the pinion angle is where the spring hangers are mounted. For example: if your spring hanger was lower and the shackle was shorter it would rotate the pinion up. So its hard to say between trucks. What degree is your caster at right now?

[Alan11116]

forgot to mention, one thing that will change the pinion angle is where the spring hangers are mounted. For example: if your spring hanger was lower and the shackle was shorter it would rotate the pinion up. So its hard to say between trucks. What degree is your caster at right now?

the spring hanger is mounted right under the end of the frame. I don't even know how to measure the caster.

[Mossyrocks]

those driveshafts dont droop as far as your stock front will. let me get a pick of mine in a minute.

[GOT COPE?]

the spring hanger is mounted right under the end of the frame. I don't even know how to measure the caster.

Assuming your caster is what it is supposed to be, measure the pinion angle and tell us what that is. it looks negative :p

I know thats Japanese to you. bring it over here and lemme look at it :D

And as far as a solution, cut and rotate hands down. Best and only way to get it exactly right. Anything else, ie shims, would be a bandaid. Might as well fix it now.

[Alan11116]

I think we measured the pinion at 2* up the other day.

[Mossyrocks]

Assuming your caster is what it is supposed to be, measure the pinion angle and tell us what that is. it looks negative :p

I know thats Japanese to you. bring it over here and lemme look at it :D

And as far as a solution, cut and rotate hands down. Best and only way to get it exactly right. Anything else, ie shims, would be a bandaid. Might as well fix it now.


Well the other problem I see is even if the knuckles are rotated to bring the pinion up to the driveshaft that driveshaft wont be able to handle it when it droops.

[Mossyrocks]

Oh and my pinion angle was 3 degrees on my 44. Even before the crawler.

[GOT COPE?]

Well the other problem I see is even if the knuckles are rotated to bring the pinion up to the driveshaft that driveshaft wont be able to handle it when it droops.

I saw that too and the only thing I could think of was, lower the truck or crawler. Or both. Wasnt coming out right on the keyboard so I neglected to mention it.

Third option would be an insane-angle CV, at an insane cost.

Last thought, is that CV one that can have a grinder taken to it for a bit more angle?

Eh, and one more... is the truck so tall it doesnt have much droop left?
Terminology aint right, but I think you'll get what Im thinking.

[Alan11116]

Oh and my pinion angle was 3 degrees on my 44. Even before the crawler.

so if we mesaured right then mine is only 1* lower than what your 44 was. obviously my truck is taller than your 4runner but my springs will sag or I am still considering making a pack with some old waggy springs. I have some but the main leaf on one of them was bent and they were just shot and pushing the shackle angle too far back. that's why I didn't use them. Colin suggested my new top 2 leafs and putting those in as replacements for the top 2 on the waggy pack. what did you do for your DS to make it work? I'm just trying to come up with the best/simple solution to fix this thing. I know I can always rotate the knuckles I guess if need be and it comes to that. Just don't want to have to do all of that. thanks!

[Alan11116]

I saw that too and the only thing I could think of was, lower the truck or crawler. Or both. Wasnt coming out right on the keyboard so I neglected to mention it.

Third option would be an insane-angle CV, at an insane cost.

Last thought, is that CV one that can have a grinder taken to it for a bit more angle?

Eh, and one more... is the truck so tall it doesnt have much droop left?
Terminology aint right, but I think you'll get what Im thinking.

yeah. that is all the droop that the CV has. and the DS wasn't extended in that picture either.

[Mossyrocks]

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f35/mossyrocks/dshaft001.jpg


Stock front and rear. you get some more angle out of the front shafts.

[GOT COPE?]

yeah. that is all the droop that the CV has. and the DS wasn't extended in that picture either.

not the shaft, what i says ith, ath tha truck thits, tha suthpenthion aint got muth downtrafle lef. :D

[Mossyrocks]

and also Im not sure about 44s but the pinion angle on my Hi9 cant be more than 5 degrees

[Alan11116]

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f35/mossyrocks/dshaft001.jpg


Stock front and rear. you get some more angle out of the front shafts.

is that the t-case side of your front shaft in the square one? we had used a double u-joint at the case. have I got it backwards?

[Mossyrocks]

I used single joint at both ends... just made it out of my stock front driveshaft.

[Alan11116]

I used single joint at both ends... just made it out of my stock front driveshaft.

I just went and looked at the DS again. on the single end I can get alot more angle than the double sided end. I didn't try to mock it up under the truck but the angle is obviously better. I wonder if that is all it would take? I was trying to use a double u-joint at the t-case side and a sing u-joint at the pinion side. you think I should just try one u-joint on each side and a shaft that is long enough? hopefully I just made this alot easier on myself and my wallet! thanks guys!

[Mossyrocks]

I would definately try single joints at both ends before anything but Im still not sure if its gonna be enough when you flex it out and droop the driverside.

[Alan11116]

I would definately try single joints at both ends before anything but Im still not sure if its gonna be enough when you flex it out and droop the driverside.

I think I am gonna try the single joint method and address the length of it too. May also try putting some shorter shackles in the front too. That will help drop the height and make things that much easier.

[Phil88]

Mines the stock front shafts too. Could u not take that rear Ds joint apart, make one single ujoint out of it and keep your driveshaft or am i thinking stupid? :(

[Alan11116]

Have you gotten all of the settling you think you're going to get?

nope. haven't even taken it to the trail yet. will probably go with shorter shackles too.

[GOT COPE?]

posted on yer FB too.

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=7494683&postcount=162

call'em up, cant hurt, might drop the price a bit.

[Alan11116]

I think that is their everyday price. I checked their site a few weeks ago.

[GOT COPE?]

IDK, their website lists them at 160 ea. in know 20 bucks off a set doesnt help much, but its $$.

http://longfieldsuperaxles.com/

[Alan11116]

maybe Pirate is where I saw them for that price then. I'm debating getting the chromo shafts for $585 shipped with either alloy x-joints or spicers and just upgrading to Longfields later. I can't afford both at 1 time.

[GOT COPE?]

what shafts? i mean who makes them? lemme know and Ill look around for a deal or used set etc.

[GOT COPE?]

dont know how you feel about it, but you could always replace the broken side with chromos and a nice joint and do the other side later :p ?

[ATLRoach]

maybe Pirate is where I saw them for that price then. I'm debating getting the chromo shafts for $585 shipped with either alloy x-joints or spicers and just upgrading to Longfields later. I can't afford both at 1 time.

Have you broken a shaft yet? If no then get a extra pair of stockers. One tip to making Dana crap last is full circle ring or tack the caps on the U joints. You will break the ears faster if the U joint starts to wallow them out. I learned the hard way with 2 sets of Yukon and Superiors in my old Heep.

Not a bad price for alloy shafts and a set of joints.

[tweeder3410]

Alan a wise man once told me "rubbins racin"......

on topic, Kyle has a good point if you want to save some cash and stay stock for now. Don't listen to me though, I don't even wheel anymore and have NO idea what he's talking about....lol

[Alan11116]

what shafts? i mean who makes them? lemme know and Ill look around for a deal or used set etc.

they are Nitro Gear and Axle through East Coast Gear Supply. If you find a good deal please let me know.
dont know how you feel about it, but you could always replace the broken side with chromos and a nice joint and do the other side later :p ?

I have thought about that too.

[Alan11116]

Have you broken a shaft yet? If no then get a extra pair of stockers. One tip to making Dana crap last is full circle ring or tack the caps on the U joints. You will break the ears faster if the U joint starts to wallow them out. I learned the hard way with 2 sets of Yukon and Superiors in my old Heep.

Not a bad price for alloy shafts and a set of joints.

yeah, broke the long side stock shaft. that's good advice on tacking them. I didn't think that was a bad price either. I'm just worried about those u-joints and if they will hold up. Alot of people on the NB said do it all at once to avoid messing up the shafts.

[ATLRoach]

yeah, broke the long side stock shaft. that's good advice on tacking them. I didn't think that was a bad price either. I'm just worried about those u-joints and if they will hold up. Alot of people on the NB said do it all at once to avoid messing up the shafts.

You have a better chance of breaking the ears than the u-joints. Have you talked to Justin about some price locally?

[Alan11116]

You have a better chance of breaking the ears than the u-joints. Have you talked to Justin about some price locally?

no, but that's a good idea! but you think either of those u-joints would hold up fine?

[Alan11116]

any opinions on Yukon super joints? I found a set for $250 with the grease and gun.

[04tacodrvr]

any opinions on Yukon super joints? I found a set for $250 with the grease and gun.

read somewhere they were a nice upgrade. check the longfield website. i beleive there is a link that has test results on breaking points, tensil stregth, ect, ect......i think they tested the longfield, yukons, ctm's and one other maybe.

Daniel

[GOT COPE?]

any opinions on Yukon super joints? I found a set for $250 with the grease and gun.

i imagine any upgraded joint is better than stock. but to be sure im positive you could find some feedback on pirate.

[Alan11116]

if you tell me what shafts you need I'll see what I can do with 4wp or OMIX.

it's for a '78 D44 low pinion from an F-150. the outers are 9.94" GM/Dodge.

[ATLRoach]

For $70 more you can get longs which are stronger and you don't have to deal with needle bearings.

[Alan11116]

For $70 more you can get longs which are stronger and you don't have to deal with needle bearings.

very true. he has been advertising them on Pirate for $150 each.

[Alan11116]

over the past few weekends between Marshall, Jack and Matt we have totally screwed up my truck with chromo shafts, Longfield u-joints, Detroit locker, new hubs and Front Range t-case mount.

(thanks guys!)

[link817]

thats cool, but usually upgrades don't screw:D

[TRoss]

over the past few weekends between Marshall, Jack and Matt we have totally screwed up my truck with chromo shafts, Longfield u-joints, Detroit locker, new hubs and Front Range t-case mount.

(thanks guys!)

Dang... ya'll can screw up my truck if ya want. :D

[HillBilly_Young01]

did you ever get that short shaft figured out?

[bad_karma_actual]

quote
"The spring hanger has been final welded and gusseted and reinforced to the frame. The shackle hanger has been final welded and spaced inside the framerails to get the correct width from the hanger. This was a pain and lengthy process to be honest. The shackles hangers only sit on about half of the framerails and half inside the frame. Marshall cut some plates to weld to the frame and then butted the shackle hanger to the plates so there would be a full flat surface for them to mount to. Then gussets were added to the mounting plate and frame. They aren't going anywhere! "



Alan,

Are the front and rear shackle hangers not the same width? (front range swap kit)
could you have possibly relocated the perches? or were they already welded in and did not want to relocate.. i know the work is complete, just Leary of front range....

[Alan11116]

quote
"The spring hanger has been final welded and gusseted and reinforced to the frame. The shackle hanger has been final welded and spaced inside the framerails to get the correct width from the hanger. This was a pain and lengthy process to be honest. The shackles hangers only sit on about half of the framerails and half inside the frame. Marshall cut some plates to weld to the frame and then butted the shackle hanger to the plates so there would be a full flat surface for them to mount to. Then gussets were added to the mounting plate and frame. They aren't going anywhere! "



Alan,

Are the front and rear shackle hangers not the same width? (front range swap kit)
could you have possibly relocated the perches? or were they already welded in and did not want to relocate.. i know the work is complete, just Leary of front range....


They are the same width but the frame gets wider where the shackle hanger is welded in. It's not anything with the front range kit. It's just the way the frame is designed.