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Aluminum roof basket installed and rear Fox 2.0's

10K views 33 replies 12 participants last post by  06oceantaco 
#1 ·


 
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#2 ·
Basket is good for 300 lbs... custom made and installed by local off-road racing shop that builds short course off-road Pro-4 trucks...

Rear shocks are Fox 2.0 with resivoir's 14 inch stroke...

You can see how they are mounted in the bottom pic. Factory mounts cut off and custom hoops welded using factory lower mounts. On drivers side the shocks were moved in front of the axle like the passenger side for clearance...

Custom bump stops also installed, pics later for all of those...

Like a desert truck (though this is an expedition style) focus was droop and not up travel for the rear...

She rides sweet and for those who still comment on my rear custom Deavers that have a slight de-arch, guess what, still solid and still working as delivered over a year ago!
 
#5 ·
look in the rear wheel well. u can see the shocks :rolleyes:
 
#9 ·
Just a K&N air filter...

Not much one can do with the 2.7liter gas engine. Next options is to improve torque with header and new exhaust setup for better rear clearance from factory...

I guess being a smarter driver and the 5-speed manual will get me by on the street, off-road this pickup performs as typical with Toyota's...
 
#12 ·
I will call Gadget, he helped me with my x-runner, his MAF for the 4.0liter gas engine gave me about 22hp and 30 ft/lbs. I had that motor at 325 hp on the dyno at the crank!

He also gave a solid stage II clutch.

I have decided to go with a 1-inch spacer, know of any that are reliable and solid?

A 2 inch widening of the track will help with clearance with rear shocks and stability on/off-road...
 
#18 ·
any of these rims:



or:



those are 16x7.5 +15 or +10mm respectively.


will work as they will stick out a bit more but not too much, That's why I run the 1st pic rims. The 1st rim gives you 25mm more clearance from the shocks, the black ones about 30mm from what you are running now. With 265s no problem, the 255s will give even more clearance on either rim.
 
#19 ·
What are exactly the rims on the top photo again?

I have been happy with the 265/75 size, most see the need to always go bigger and wider meaning sticking tires well wide for looks...

The 265/75 is a solid size (since most miles are on road) and forces the driver to be smarter off-road, etc...

That is why I have better bumpers for approach/departure angles, skid plates underneath, snorkle, bridging ladders and soon sand tracks and a solid suspension to handle it all as well as the weight...

My focus has always been function over looks. Every mod has a function to perform and not just sit shiny for looks...
 
#20 ·
those are the FJ 16x7.5 +15, here they are on my truck (silver) running 285s but I'm considering going back to 265/75s as I pull a trailer frequently and the bigger tire reduces my HP and torque to the wheels... unless I regear but I can't afford that now...
with your color I think dark gray or black would work better.

 
#22 ·
What size are those black ones? Will they work well with 265/75?

I am planning a small 1/4 ton trailer to haul some heavy gear to keep the bed for lighter, fluff type gear, have to ask CBI if their bumper would hold up to a 1/4 ton small trailer...
 
#23 ·
those are: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/buy-sell-trade/230532-scs-f-5-wheels-16x8.html

and they seem high-quality. I like that the spokes are connected towards the center of the rim, better strength and that deep dish look, plus they are relatively light.

Yes they work just fine with 265s. these will stick out a tiny bit more than the aforementioned and your wheels (16x7 +30 steels vs. 16x8 +0), but with 265s it's not going to be huge deal.

I'm sure the CBI bumper can hold 500lbs of tongue weight, but it's not DOT approved so it's you and how cool your state police are.
 
#25 ·
Op

nice gizmo's

but yer rear springs look close to negative...
and the ass of yer junk looks too squat.

what's the deal :confused:

* I won't even attempt to understand that bump stop,
but an inch of up travel has got to bring deh suck
 
#26 ·
nice gizmo's

but yer rear springs look close to negative...
and the ass of yer junk looks too squat.

what's the deal :confused:

* I won't even attempt to understand that bump stop,
but an inch of up travel has got to bring deh suck
Nothing is wrong with the rear...

I had roughly 1,500 lbs. overall payload for a 1,200 mile trip last month, no issues. Get used to bump stops on the frame is all...

The truck is just about level when empty! Though I prefer the front higher than the rear for better approach angle...
 
#29 ·
You just drilled them into the roof? You know there are holes up there for the factory roof rack right?

:facepalm:


Those brackets are in a good position to fail the way they're constructed.
 
#30 ·
Access cab does not have that option!

And what do you know about roof baskets? I just completed a 1,200 mile camping trip with 4 gas cans, 20 gallons, full-size tent, 2 chairs and assorted other gear, no issues!

The guy who built it was standing on top of it bouncing up and down as a demo and I proved it over the long trip and yes I will have more weight on it the next trip!
 
#33 ·
Good pointers...

Though if it does fail, I will hear it above my head and make adjustements, for now it held up well on my first 1,200 road trip!

I do not plan too much weight up there, just bulky oversized gear will go up there, something that can take a smack from an occassional low hanging branch! Fuel cans will be in the back of the basket protected as usual...
 
#34 ·
Thanks for the post and pictues of your aluminum rack install on your access cab. This gives me a lot of ideas for my planned rack project. I want a rack similar to yours. Did you have to drop your headliner to install your rack ? You have given me my answer that I was looking for as well about not having the install bolt holes with the access cab, It looks like I will be drilling some holes to mount my rack as well. Thanks.
 
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