06silverback's 06DC SAS

[06silverback]

I have been taking pics all throughout this process and last week my camera was stolen. My SAS is a D44 hi-pinion out of a 77 ford F-150. I am running a 3-link with a panhard bar. This is the 1st SAS I've ever done and I have used this site primarily for research and every 4x magazine that I own for tech. I am using a friends shop that has helped me with fab work in the past, so we'll see how that goes. I am going to run a 94 Landcruiser rear axle with 4.88's and an ARB in it. I'm going to use a 2" wheelspacer on the short-side so the final offset of the rear diff will be very minimal and have the same overall width as the stock axle. Below is a list of some of my parts.

Ballistic Fab Hi Steer Arms
Reid Racing Knuckles
30-Spline Superior Axles (inner and stubs)
Nitro U-Joints
ARB Air Locker with Nitro 4.88's
Polyperformance Drive Flanges
6 Lug Chevy Disk Brakes
14" FOA Coilovers
Ballistic Fab 2.63" Flex Joints on Lower links and 3/4" heims on top link
.250 lower links sleeved with another .250 tube
IFS steering box
Ballistic Fab 3/4" Steering Kit
Parts Mike axle rebuild kit

Both sides of the frame plated and painted with bedliner.
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Top Link on passenger side. Tucks nicely between curve of frame and to the Right of the oil pan.
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[06silverback]

Panhard bar mount.
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Power steering box with CNC'd 3/4" spacer plate to avoid hitting radiator support on inside of frame. Panhard mount on driver's side.
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Panhard and draglink running nice and parallel and on the same slope.
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[06silverback]

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This is the top link mount at the frame. It angles towards the inside of the frame via a machined wedge 3/4" thick on the front and 1/16" thick on the back in the same shape as the link bracket with a gusset towards the rear of the bracket. The bolt goes straight thru the frame with the nut on the inside of the framerail....yes, it's kinda hard to reach.
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I had to replace the body mount becuase it was keeping me from sliding the PS box far enough forward. I used the bushings from the OE bodymount and put them inside a 1 3/4" DOM elbow I made.
The slot in the front is to access the nut with a wrench.
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[Mr Tacomi]

Originally Posted by 06silverback

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This is the top link mount at the frame. It angles towards the inside of the frame via a machined wedge 3/4" thick on the front and 1/16" thick on the back in the same shape as the link bracket with a gusset towards the rear of the bracket. The bolt goes straight thru the frame with the nut on the inside of the framerail....yes, it's kinda hard to reach.
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I had to replace the body mount becuase it was keeping me from sliding the PS box far enough forward. I used the bushings from the OE bodymount and put them inside a 1 3/4" DOM elbow I made.
The slot in the front is to access the nut with a wrench.
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Looking good, especially like the machined PS box mounting spacer--mounting the box on a flat surface is very important, it doesn't get much flatter than plate! What pitman arm is that?

[SilverSeven]

Nice dude! when you think you'll have it done?

[06silverback]

my FOA's will be in within another week hopefully. I need to get my drive flanges and my steering joints from Kartek and besides the PS lines/brakelines ill be done with the front. I'm ordering the rear gears with an ARB next Friday for the rear and I still need to make a front bumper/exo and a transfer case skid like awsumdc's. It will be driveable in 3 weeks i think, but not completely done until the first week of August. Been on jackstands since April.....getting ancey!

[the_kernel114]

what are you expecting your ride height to be at over stock?

[06silverback]

LOL, what's stock???

[06silverback]

Once i get my CO's and get my shock hoops on there ill decide on the ride height. probably around 24" to the frame. I'm going to be running 37" Creepy Crawlers....they're in the garage and i still need wheels for them....can't wait to see them on the truck.

Random Pics.
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[the_kernel114]

looks awesome man.

[SilverSeven]

Originally Posted by 06silverback

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Are you going to plate over that panhard mount to tie it together?

[06silverback]

yes, going to cover that. i havent had time to work with the CNC machine this week. im going to put holes in it like the panhard mount and top link brackets i made. I also need to do some tweeking on my pitman arm....the top of the bolt barely hits the frame.

the pitman arm just came with the IFS box. i milled it out to accept the tube adapter so i can run a 3/4" bolt thru it. It's TIG'd in there and I need to grind about a 1/16" off the top of it so the bolt clears the frame.

[Mr Tacomi]

Originally Posted by 06silverback

the pitman arm just came with the IFS box. i milled it out to accept the tube adapter so i can run a 3/4" bolt thru it. It's TIG'd in there and I need to grind about a 1/16" off the top of it so the bolt clears the frame.

The reason I asked is that I also have a Dana 44 with crossover steering, and a Toyota PS box w/standard Toy pitman arm. Configured like you have it (drag link mounted in front of tie rod, on the passenger steering arm), unless you have a Landcruiser pitman arm, you won't get enough throw out of the Toyota PS box/arm to have much steering throw (IE: it won't turn very sharp). I went with the standard GM '1-Ton' steering where the drag-link mounts to the passenger side tie rod-end. It doesn't look like there's a big difference between mounting it in front of the tie rod on the steering arm or mounting it TO the tie rod ala:1 ton, but the difference is making a 3 point turn to get the thing out of the shop, or being able to hit the steering stops on the knuckles. Getting the Landcruiser arm is the better of the two evils. Check your steering throw (even as it is now, with just the box and no steering wheel); just push the knuckles from lock to lock (how far the box will turn before it's internal stops). Good Luck!

[06silverback]

will do...never thought of that. i can swing by the salvage yard and get the pitman arm off the same 94 LC if i need it.

[taco4x4rar]

Originally Posted by Mr Tacomi

The reason I asked is that I also have a Dana 44 with crossover steering, and a Toyota PS box w/standard Toy pitman arm. Configured like you have it (drag link mounted in front of tie rod, on the passenger steering arm), unless you have a Landcruiser pitman arm, you won't get enough throw out of the Toyota PS box/arm to have much steering throw (IE: it won't turn very sharp). I went with the standard GM '1-Ton' steering where the drag-link mounts to the passenger side tie rod-end. It doesn't look like there's a big difference between mounting it in front of the tie rod on the steering arm or mounting it TO the tie rod ala:1 ton, but the difference is making a 3 point turn to get the thing out of the shop, or being able to hit the steering stops on the knuckles. Getting the Landcruiser arm is the better of the two evils. Check your steering throw (even as it is now, with just the box and no steering wheel); just push the knuckles from lock to lock (how far the box will turn before it's internal stops). Good Luck!

Damn, I never know that. But why not get a longer drivers side steering arm and then mount tie rod to the two outer holes and the draglink to the inner hole on the passenger arm. Seem like that would do the same thing and would keep you from having to mount the draglink and tierod end together.

[Mr Tacomi]

Originally Posted by taco4x4rar

Damn, I never know that. But why not get a longer drivers side steering arm and then mount tie rod to the two outer holes and the draglink to the inner hole on the passenger arm. Seem like that would do the same thing and would keep you from having to mount the draglink and tierod end together.

The underlying factor that's working here is steering ratio. The pitman arm length is kind of 'matched' to steering arm length & throw a little magic of steering box ratio in there. If you swapped the tie rod to the front, and the drag link to the rear on the steering arms, two things would happen: 1. Tie rod and drag link constantly getting involved with each other--and this is pretty undesirable. 2. Steering would be very 'quick' ie: very little steering wheel action=lots of tire steering movement--with the corresponding loss in steering torque, meaning you'd need hydo-assist at a minimum, and the thing would be WAY too sensitive on the streets. It's a wonder that it works at all using a Dana axle with Toyota pitman arms (aftermarket, but same length). Curiously enough the 86-88 Toy boxes have a slightly higher steering wheel to pitman arm ratio which equals slower, more powerful steering--I had that box and broke it, now I have the slightly quicker and less powerful newer box ..on road the steering feels more normal with the 'quicker' box than it did with the earlier box. You'd be surprised at how sensitive we are as drivers to the 'normal' amount of steering wheel movement it takes driving around in traffic and parking lots, etc. I dredge this tiny little tidbit of SAS background info as an example of why folks that have been through this are always saying: SEARCH, READ, READ, READ!


Silverback: The pitman arm that I know a few folks ran with full crossover steering like you have there and that worked for them, not only has a vertical drop similar to your OE Toy pitman arm, but has a little sweep to the arm ie: it doesn't project straight out from the sector shaft to the drag link end, there's a noticeable curve to it. To cover bases here, TEST WHAT YOU HAVE CURRENTLY ON YOUR TRUCK!!! If you can't get the knuckles close to the stops, you'll need a longer pitman arm...this is what I have researched to fix this, but haven't tried it myself, so not 100% sure that this is the full solution--it's what I plan on trying next fall after wheeling season.

FJ80 ARM (bottom one in pic) This is the one I'm gonna try:

[awsumdc]

Looks good man. It'll be interesting to seeing how your rear axle will work out. Shouldn't be any problems but will still be interest to see. Are you running a crawler box on yor truck?

[SilverSeven]

That image is borderline pornographic

Originally Posted by Mr Tacomi

The underlying factor that's working here is steering ratio. The pitman arm length is kind of 'matched' to steering arm length & throw a little magic of steering box ratio in there. If you swapped the tie rod to the front, and the drag link to the rear on the steering arms, two things would happen: 1. Tie rod and drag link constantly getting involved with each other--and this is pretty undesirable. 2. Steering would be very 'quick' ie: very little steering wheel action=lots of tire steering movement--with the corresponding loss in steering torque, meaning you'd need hydo-assist at a minimum, and the thing would be WAY too sensitive on the streets. It's a wonder that it works at all using a Dana axle with Toyota pitman arms (aftermarket, but same length). Curiously enough the 86-88 Toy boxes have a slightly higher steering wheel to pitman arm ratio which equals slower, more powerful steering--I had that box and broke it, now I have the slightly quicker and less powerful newer box ..on road the steering feels more normal with the 'quicker' box than it did with the earlier box. You'd be surprised at how sensitive we are as drivers to the 'normal' amount of steering wheel movement it takes driving around in traffic and parking lots, etc. I dredge this tiny little tidbit of SAS background info as an example of why folks that have been through this are always saying: SEARCH, READ, READ, READ!


Silverback: The pitman arm that I know a few folks ran with full crossover steering like you have there and that worked for them, not only has a vertical drop similar to your OE Toy pitman arm, but has a little sweep to the arm ie: it doesn't project straight out from the sector shaft to the drag link end, there's a noticeable curve to it. To cover bases here, TEST WHAT YOU HAVE CURRENTLY ON YOUR TRUCK!!! If you can't get the knuckles close to the stops, you'll need a longer pitman arm...this is what I have researched to fix this, but haven't tried it myself, so not 100% sure that this is the full solution--it's what I plan on trying next fall after wheeling season.

FJ80 ARM (bottom one in pic) This is the one I'm gonna try:

[Mr Tacomi]

Originally Posted by taco4x4rar

...... and would keep you from having to mount the draglink and tierod end together.

Just an aside... This '1 Ton steering' is a GM setup, built from the factory this way. The only issue is with lift, there comes a little 'wander' in the steering. There are several trucks that push hyrdo assist against this tie rod end. It may sound like a simple, almost crude, setup, but most all Dana swaps out there started with this steering. Mine has racked up 30k miles and countless trail adventures (parts do wear pretty fast, though).

[06silverback]

No, no crawler box yet. I'm going to wait a few years on that I think. After the SAS I have to be "done" for awhile I think. I already drilled my hi-steer arms to accept the 3/4" bolt for the heims, so running regualr tie rods is kinda not an option at this point. I'll test out my box/pitman arm and let ya'll know how it goes.

[06silverback]

i looked at the throw on my PS box/pitman arm last night. i have more than enough, but didnt notice the draglink is barely hitting the bolt that goes thru my panhard mount on the passenger side. i will notch a spot out of the draglink and basically flip the piece that i cut out (and weld it back in) so when its at full crank to the passenger side nothing hits. i checked that before i fully welded everything, but something must've moved on me

[Mr Tacomi]

Originally Posted by 06silverback

i looked at the throw on my PS box/pitman arm last night. i have more than enough, but didnt notice the draglink is barely hitting the bolt that goes thru my panhard mount on the passenger side. i will notch a spot out of the draglink and basically flip the piece that i cut out (and weld it back in) so when its at full crank to the passenger side nothing hits. i checked that before i fully welded everything, but something must've moved on me

Interesting... but good! Whose steering arms are you using?

[KSdblcab]

Great to finally see the progress, sorry to read about the camera. Hopefully it will be ready by Tall Corn, perfect for a shakedown run. Then work out all the bugs and have it ready for SMORR in Sept.

[06silverback]

the hi-steer arms are from ballistic fab. they have have 4 studs instead of the usual 3 which provides a little more clamping force. i milled them out to accept a 3/4" bolt.

KSdblcab: it should be driveable in 3 weeks and i'll have all the bugs worked out for Tallcorn.

[taco4x4rar]

Originally Posted by 06silverback

i looked at the throw on my PS box/pitman arm last night. i have more than enough, but didnt notice the draglink is barely hitting the bolt that goes thru my panhard mount on the passenger side. i will notch a spot out of the draglink and basically flip the piece that i cut out (and weld it back in) so when its at full crank to the passenger side nothing hits. i checked that before i fully welded everything, but something must've moved on me

So exactly which steering box do you have? The early IFS box or the later IFS box.

[SilverSeven]

What rear axle are u going to run?

[06silverback]

not really sure which box i have. i assume its the beefier of the 2 since it's larger than the ones ive seen used on awsumdc/silverseven's trucks. the only cosmetic difference seems to be the cylinder that sticks out on the front which in my case hit my stock body mount.

im going to run an ARB air locked Landcruiser axle out of a 94 with 4.88's.