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Old 03-10-2012, 11:10 PM   #31
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FWIW, if you're doing a cruiser axle that is full float, and rear discs, don't worry about a residual valve. Residial valves are only needed if the brake pads are getting pushed back in. Not needed if you're running a full float axle, or a floating caliper.
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Old 03-11-2012, 05:04 AM   #32
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Nice to know, I picked it up a few years ago when I wasn't sure what I was gonna do in the back for brakes.
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"Jekyll and Hyde" 2002 d-cab v6 4x4 33" dunlop MT, ARB's F and R, manual hub conversion, king coilovers, TC UCA's, deaver 8-leafs, downey shackles, 12" sb bilstein 7100 resi's, marlin brakeline, demello sliders, rear bumper/tirecarrier, rear shock relocation, budbuilt ifs skid, can-back, urd gasket, airraid elbow, full floating rear w/discs
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Old 03-19-2012, 02:30 AM   #33
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Just got the remaining parts I needed to rebuild the rear calipers, and got drilled and slotted rotors coming this week. The rear axle(minus the third) should be close to being done by the end of next week, it will be a thing of beauty if my vision is translated into reality.

Things left to do:
1:make hardline for the rear axle
2:get braided lines to the calipers
3:have the third gone through by yotamasters(bought it used, and needs a new pinion flange.
4:replace the seal housing on the ARB
5:get spring perches from ruffstuff

I guess more than I thought but its all stuff that's not very time consuming.
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"Jekyll and Hyde" 2002 d-cab v6 4x4 33" dunlop MT, ARB's F and R, manual hub conversion, king coilovers, TC UCA's, deaver 8-leafs, downey shackles, 12" sb bilstein 7100 resi's, marlin brakeline, demello sliders, rear bumper/tirecarrier, rear shock relocation, budbuilt ifs skid, can-back, urd gasket, airraid elbow, full floating rear w/discs

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Old 03-22-2012, 03:43 AM   #34
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updated the first page with some more info and acquired parts
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"Jekyll and Hyde" 2002 d-cab v6 4x4 33" dunlop MT, ARB's F and R, manual hub conversion, king coilovers, TC UCA's, deaver 8-leafs, downey shackles, 12" sb bilstein 7100 resi's, marlin brakeline, demello sliders, rear bumper/tirecarrier, rear shock relocation, budbuilt ifs skid, can-back, urd gasket, airraid elbow, full floating rear w/discs
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Old 04-11-2012, 07:44 AM   #35
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Some more parts came in:
92' fj80 cross-drilled and slotted front rotors
93' fzj80 cross-drilled and slotted rear rotors

I also picked up (2) 6" LED bars to put on the ARB. They each put out 2160 lumens, whereas my old Hella 500 with new h3's put out about 1200, the main reason I went LED was the output but the amp draw is a bonus(2.5a a piece) so I can use the lights without the motor running and not kill my aux batt. I will post a video of them at night when I get the teardrop mounts for the bumper done.
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:21 PM   #36
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Default Break from mods and taking care of some comforts.

Decided to take a break from the serious mods and handle a comfort issue, the stock stereo was a little tired and I needed room for a switch panel I"m putting together, so I went with a single din Kenwood Head unit at a great price.

It wasn't hard to install at all, I cant believe people pay hundreds of dollars to have stereos put in. With the amount of information on the internet and few tools you could be done in a few hours. The trickiest part was building the wiring harness because none of the colors in the factory harness matched the FSM wiring diagram, but I bought the adapter harness and apparently all the pins lined up and it works perfectly. I always solder and heat shrink whenever I splice wires together mainly for a professional look but since my truck sees all kinds of vibration and the possibility of shorts occurring. I saw a buddies car burn up in another friends driveway because of an electrical/fuel fire, luckily the dealer was the last one to touch it but you can never be to careful.


I kinda did a very rough mock up of my switch panel. I have my roadless gear in cab winch controller that connects to the solenoid box but still allows you to use the remote if you want to. Then the ARB switches in the order that i use the most 1-being the compressor, 2- the rear and lastly the 3-the front(which I have only needed a handful of times, mainly up north). I'm going to change all the switch covers to red so that it's a contrast to the amber so I don't inadvertently leave a switch on and it will blend in better than bright blue, I'm big on small details plus the locker covers are tired and loose. I put my rock lights one in there just to see if I could put 4 in, but it will actually be a switch for my dual battery iso/comb. from hellroaring technologies. The rock and driving lights switches will be just in front of the 4wd shifter, but that may change on depending upon the location of the triple sticks.

Gonna replace all the speakers in the doors and soundmat them when i get some more funds. I'm pretty sure the frt. pass side speaker is waving the white flag and I'm sure the rest are to follow. I have noticed an improvement over stock just with the new head unit so I'm pretty satisfied right now.
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"Jekyll and Hyde" 2002 d-cab v6 4x4 33" dunlop MT, ARB's F and R, manual hub conversion, king coilovers, TC UCA's, deaver 8-leafs, downey shackles, 12" sb bilstein 7100 resi's, marlin brakeline, demello sliders, rear bumper/tirecarrier, rear shock relocation, budbuilt ifs skid, can-back, urd gasket, airraid elbow, full floating rear w/discs
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Old 04-27-2012, 05:08 AM   #37
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bump for 11k + views, don't worry I should have some real tech for you guys coming up, getting rid of the ABS plumbing (hasn't working in years because of the manual hubs up front) this weekend hopefully if Jeg's gets me my shit that I need on time to put the proportioning valve in. The main thing that's holding me back is tires for the 16" bead-lock's that I need to go to if I Wanna throw the full floater in the back, but I need to replace the seal housing on the ARB and the pinion flange in the rear third. the bigger Master cylinder will be going in to
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"Jekyll and Hyde" 2002 d-cab v6 4x4 33" dunlop MT, ARB's F and R, manual hub conversion, king coilovers, TC UCA's, deaver 8-leafs, downey shackles, 12" sb bilstein 7100 resi's, marlin brakeline, demello sliders, rear bumper/tirecarrier, rear shock relocation, budbuilt ifs skid, can-back, urd gasket, airraid elbow, full floating rear w/discs
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:21 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by trdtacostand04 View Post
bump for 11k + views, don't worry I should have some real tech for you guys coming up, getting rid of the ABS plumbing (hasn't working in years because of the manual hubs up front) this weekend hopefully if Jeg's gets me my shit that I need on time to put the proportioning valve in. The main thing that's holding me back is tires for the 16" bead-lock's that I need to go to if I Wanna throw the full floater in the back, but I need to replace the seal housing on the ARB and the pinion flange in the rear third. the bigger Master cylinder will be going in to
i've wanted to do that for yrs
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Old 04-27-2012, 04:31 PM   #39
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Yeah I had an 01 extra cab before this truck and it came factory with no ABS and it was great, all the extra lines and the control module make for a less than desirable pedal feel and shitty stopping performance. I think a lot of it has to do with the junk proportioning valve they put in the back of these things. I'll take a video of the removal for interested parties.
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"Jekyll and Hyde" 2002 d-cab v6 4x4 33" dunlop MT, ARB's F and R, manual hub conversion, king coilovers, TC UCA's, deaver 8-leafs, downey shackles, 12" sb bilstein 7100 resi's, marlin brakeline, demello sliders, rear bumper/tirecarrier, rear shock relocation, budbuilt ifs skid, can-back, urd gasket, airraid elbow, full floating rear w/discs
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Old 05-02-2012, 07:15 PM   #40
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Default Brake prop. stuff

I like going through Jegs even though summit-racing has a warehouse out here but I can wait the extra day or two. The factory 10mm line is going to go into the prop and then the 12" AN line will have a -3 10mmx1.0mm male to connect to the rear brake line to the axle Here's what I ordered:

-3an to 1/8 pt for the prop valve
-3an to 10mmx 1.0mm female inverted
-3an coupler
12" stainless braided ptfe

I already had the 6" marlin rear line, I have too much travel in the rear for the wheelers line I currently have back there. I heard there's a good aircraft hose company in Ontario that will make you lines for a good price to your specs, and I will probably go to them for my steering box hoses when I decide if I'm going forward or rear swing (IFS or 80 series). Next on the list is going to be spring perches and frame boxing plates. I'm going to gamble on ballistic fabs customer service, because I like their designs the best.
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"Jekyll and Hyde" 2002 d-cab v6 4x4 33" dunlop MT, ARB's F and R, manual hub conversion, king coilovers, TC UCA's, deaver 8-leafs, downey shackles, 12" sb bilstein 7100 resi's, marlin brakeline, demello sliders, rear bumper/tirecarrier, rear shock relocation, budbuilt ifs skid, can-back, urd gasket, airraid elbow, full floating rear w/discs
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Old 05-02-2012, 07:26 PM   #41
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Overall plan pre-swap is to get the rear in and then put the duals in, sell my front and rear diffs and run 2wd with my hubs for awhile, then when the front axle is fully built, start the swap. I have to minimize down time as I only have my truck as a DD. I hope to have the rear in by the end of next month just depends if I can get a few parts:
tires for 16's
rear third inspected, new parts from ARB
frame boxing plates
spring perches

The anticipation is killing me but I gotta be smart with my money right now
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"Jekyll and Hyde" 2002 d-cab v6 4x4 33" dunlop MT, ARB's F and R, manual hub conversion, king coilovers, TC UCA's, deaver 8-leafs, downey shackles, 12" sb bilstein 7100 resi's, marlin brakeline, demello sliders, rear bumper/tirecarrier, rear shock relocation, budbuilt ifs skid, can-back, urd gasket, airraid elbow, full floating rear w/discs
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Old 05-06-2012, 02:42 AM   #42
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The Wilwood ended up being a bust and the threads were junk, they came out with the fittings that were only hand tight. I know aluminum is weak sauce but honestly the re-branded summit is trash. Update on Wednesday when the replacement parts come in.
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Old 06-05-2012, 01:04 PM   #43
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I've had a Wilwood prop. valve in the rear of mine for several years, running braided stainless lines I had made at G & J & have zero complaints. I've never had to actually adjust mine after swapping in a rear D60 w/discs. I'll be going to G & J for some front lines, hopefully this summer.
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:27 PM   #44
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I got here such a nice information.It is really helpful for everyone.

Clearwater Transmission Repair
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Old 03-04-2013, 06:06 PM   #45
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^^Keep your spam BS out of my thread. With that being said I've been neglecting the truck lately due to changing my focus on my gun collection because of pending legislation, I figured I needed some things while they're still available.
Still planning on moving forward with the axle swap, going to put the dual transfer case setup in and the rear axle first so I know how long the rear drive-line will need to be and because I cant afford to have my truck down for more than a weekend being my daily driver. After that the front diff will be sold (ARB rd99, PG 4.88's setup by yotamasters) to fund hellfire Knuckles and completion of front axle. With the IFS parts I have on the front I should be able to sell them to fund my front diff build, (hpinion w/arb and nitro 4.88's). Going to have quite a few things for sale coming up shortly.
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"Jekyll and Hyde" 2002 d-cab v6 4x4 33" dunlop MT, ARB's F and R, manual hub conversion, king coilovers, TC UCA's, deaver 8-leafs, downey shackles, 12" sb bilstein 7100 resi's, marlin brakeline, demello sliders, rear bumper/tirecarrier, rear shock relocation, budbuilt ifs skid, can-back, urd gasket, airraid elbow, full floating rear w/discs

Last edited by trdtacostand04; 03-14-2013 at 03:51 AM.
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:26 PM   #46
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Just picked up a set of BFG KM2's in 255/85/16's this week, going to start a YouTube channel to better represent mods as they come, just need to throw them on the beadlocks and get them balanced.
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Old 05-08-2013, 02:50 PM   #47
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Sold my 255's to another member because they were too narrow for my bead-locks and I went to a 295/75/16 or roughly a 33.6", in 11.5 wide Hankook dynapro RT03.
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Old 05-09-2013, 05:58 AM   #48
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Sold my 255's to another member because they were too narrow for my bead-locks and I went to a 295/75/16 or roughly a 33.6", in 11.5 wide Hankook dynapro RT03.
Excellent tire choice, I absolutely loved my Hankook's!!
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:19 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by MVLSKI View Post
I would go with the Inchworm adapter plate
I did end up going with the inchworm. Mostly because they had it in stock and it was on sale but the seal on the spacer looks like junk, im probably going to replace it with a marlin seal. All in all the machining is great quality, I would recommend taking a compressor and blowing out all the tapped holes, mine had a few curlys left inside from the mill
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Old 05-12-2013, 08:02 AM   #50
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Quote:
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Excellent tire choice, I absolutely loved my Hankook's!!

They look like they're going to be a great tire, the best tire I've had all around would have to be the Trxus MT's (the sidewall was stupid thick and they started off pretty quiet) The size was a perfect compromise as i wanted the little more narrow width as well as the slightly larger than 33" size.
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Old 05-15-2014, 05:20 PM   #51
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Sold my beadlocks because I didn't want to have to deal with re-tourqing them all the time on a rig that is my DD and I don't spend too much time in sub 15-18 psi ranges so I bought Stealth custom series F5's in matte bronze, Vin at SCS was a great guy to deal with and he even included a set of splined lug nuts as well. At 19lbs they are alot lighter than my steel wheels, I opted for the 4.5" BS to keep the width on my fj80 axle bearable.
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Old 05-15-2014, 05:39 PM   #52
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I assembled my rear axle to get an idea on the width and Its motivating me to get this thing going
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Old 05-15-2014, 09:19 PM   #53
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So I've been wondering this recently. Is there any benefit to a non-locked front 80 axle? Having a full floater is generally desired, I know. Just seems for the price diff between the elocker and non, you can get an elocker for quite a bit less than a non+ARB.

Good to see some progress!
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Old 05-16-2014, 02:12 PM   #54
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First off a lunchbox or non-selectable locker in the front with drive flanges is not very desirable especially in the snow(which I find myself in sometimes) or trails with tight turns. Running said locker with manual hubs is better however you still have issues in snow/turning radius. For this reason I run a rd-90 ARB in the front of my Tacoma and will always run a selectable lockers(ARB rd-89 in back) especially up front.

Now with that out of the way, from personal experience I know the ARB diff is stronger than the e-locker. I've had friends break e-locker diffs (3 to date), the weak points are the motors, as well as the shift collar side gear and longer splined shaft twisting. I got the front fj80 axle for a steal at 275 bucks and it just happened to be non-locked so that was the main reason. The nice part about the HP 8" is that it shares the same arb (rd132) with all mini trucks and 8" diffs so finding a used one isn't too hard.
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