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Old 02-03-2012, 07:32 AM   #31
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That Guide looks bad. you can use the sleeve. The Release bearing is just one that do not use the fork. Check out the Howe Throw out bearings. I take a pic later and post.
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Old 02-03-2012, 02:52 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverLux View Post
That Guide looks bad. you can use the sleeve. The Release bearing is just one that do not use the fork. Check out the Howe Throw out bearings. I take a pic later and post.
I've used those hydraulic throwout bearings before. They are a bitch to keep bled properly. For some reason they build up air bubbles. If they exert too much pressure on the back of the crank, for too long a time, the oil gets wiped off the thrust bearing and you can destroy your crank.
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Old 02-05-2012, 02:33 AM   #33
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Did you use Dot 3 fluid only?

Last edited by SilverLux; 02-05-2012 at 02:33 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 02-05-2012, 09:28 AM   #34
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Did you use Dot 3 fluid only?
This isn't an isolated problem. A lot of people don't like those for that very reason.
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Old 02-06-2012, 02:40 PM   #35
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that is interesting
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Old 02-06-2012, 02:43 PM   #36
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how is the conversion doing?
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Old 02-06-2012, 03:14 PM   #37
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how is the conversion doing?
I actually won't even start the conversion until March. I have a couple jobs to complete first.

But I'm glad I started this thread early. You guys are helping me along with the thought process.
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Old 02-06-2012, 10:05 PM   #38
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once you figure out all the issues make a kit
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Old 02-06-2012, 10:35 PM   #39
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Quote:
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once you figure out all the issues make a kit
hmm, Matt and 'kit' don't quite go together
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Old 02-06-2012, 10:44 PM   #40
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hmm, Matt and 'kit' don't quite go together
I know, huh? I've been thinking about that lately.
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Old 02-18-2012, 04:13 PM   #41
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x-runner pan.....

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showp...4&postcount=58
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Old 02-18-2012, 06:36 PM   #42
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dang, that sure doesn't leave much room for oil Get tippy and the pump would be sucking air.
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Old 03-25-2012, 06:40 PM   #43
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So I finally started the project. The first thing I needed to do was take good baseline measurements, so I measured away with the stock motor (22RE) in place. With my rough numbers it looked like I wasn't going to be able to fit it under the hood. So I came up with a plan...

Pics to follow.
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:30 PM   #44
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Quote:
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So I finally started the project. The first thing I needed to do was take good baseline measurements, so I measured away with the stock motor (22RE) in place. With my rough numbers it looked like I wasn't going to be able to fit it under the hood. So I came up with a plan...

Pics to follow.
swap front clips and make a Frankentruck?
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:47 PM   #45
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swap front clips and make a Frankentruck?
Nope. I did that on the last one...

I'm having Jim machine me a base for a new plenum. This is going to incorporate velocity stacks and enough material so I can finish it off with aluminum tubing welded together to make a plenum much like a Chevy TPI setup.

Like I said, pics to follow.
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:48 PM   #46
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I know other guys are doing this swap with a 3 inch body lift, but that's hardly possible in this case, because the customer just paid me to lower the truck so the last thing he's going to want is a body lift.

And I hate body lifts.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:50 AM   #47
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One more thing I need to look into is the fly-by-wire throttle. I heard somewhere that guys are converting to a cable controlled throttle body from a 1UZ, but I don't know any more than that. Any info would help.
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Old 03-30-2012, 12:25 PM   #48
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Quote:
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dang, that sure doesn't leave much room for oil Get tippy and the pump would be sucking air.
a few guys have blown motors drifting there xrunners cuz of this pan. a member of on XRU made a spacer for the pan to get a little more oil in there to not have this happen
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:32 AM   #49
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As much as it may pain you... making a custom oil pan might be the best way to go. I'm definitely interested in seeing how this turns out.
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Old 04-16-2012, 12:28 PM   #50
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Well I modified the stock pan. We lost about a quart, but I can gain that back with a remote cooler, or, if we decide to, we can put a kickout in the driver's side of the pan.
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Old 04-16-2012, 12:45 PM   #51
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Here are some new pics.

Comparison of the stock 22RE and the 1GR-FE


Engine position, oil filter barely clears


Length of stock trans and dual cases




Length of 6 speed with adapter and dual cases






Pics of new trans and mock up trans


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Old 04-16-2012, 12:50 PM   #52
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The new motor was about 3 inches shorter than the 22RE and the 6 speed is about 2.5 inches longer than the stock trans, but with the adapter the motor was able to sit perfectly in the engine bay, and the t-cases were able to remain in their stock location, so no drive shaft mods or new holes in the floor were needed.

Here's some pics of the frame rails and new motor mounts

Cut these off


Cleaned up the frame and made some frame plates








And new motor mounts




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Old 04-16-2012, 12:54 PM   #53
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I had to cut the small pieces off the heads to clear the firewall




Then I set the motor in place, and this is what I found




So it was time to modify the pan...
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Old 04-16-2012, 12:59 PM   #54
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Modifying the pan took a bit of work. I first had to figure out what I was going to cut off. Some of the oil pan bolts are inside the pan, so I had to figure out if they were going to remain there or if I would put them on the outside.









I decided it would be better to keep them inside the pan, because there is a drain back hole that would also have to be modified to allow it to function. And with the new aluminum welded up on the outside of the bolts, there would be a bit more oil left in the pan. So I started cutting...



And machining



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Old 04-16-2012, 01:02 PM   #55
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More later...
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Old 04-16-2012, 02:30 PM   #56
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This is so sick.
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Old 04-16-2012, 05:01 PM   #57
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please tell me that tcase mount is going away and some sort of new xmember with dual OE mounts are replacing it.


As usual...awesome work.
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Old 04-16-2012, 05:52 PM   #58
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please tell me that tcase mount is going away and some sort of new xmember with dual OE mounts are replacing it.


As usual...awesome work.
Thanks Chris.

Yeah, I don't like the amount of leverage that puts on the trans assembly. Having the crossmember all the way in the back is ok on a stock W56 or whatever, but when you throw an adapter into the mix, and a 5/8" thick one at that...I am concerned.

I want to do like I did on the blue '06 DC, and have two x-members; one on the t-case and one on the trans, making t-case removal super easy and alleviating the stress in the middle.
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:58 PM   #59
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Thanks Chris.

Yeah, I don't like the amount of leverage that puts on the trans assembly. Having the crossmember all the way in the back is ok on a stock W56 or whatever, but when you throw an adapter into the mix, and a 5/8" thick one at that...I am concerned.

I want to do like I did on the blue '06 DC, and have two x-members; one on the t-case and one on the trans, making t-case removal super easy and alleviating the stress in the middle.
you've seen my setup, right? single xmember but with two OE mounts, tranny and crawler. (which I need to pull and check for a busted mount at the moment )
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Yeah, well, I'm just glad I snagged a few Spector cans before EPA converted them to Sphincters
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Lube may be your best friend (depending on location).
'00 Excab Tacoma, 2.7, 5sp with a Bunch-o-mods
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:03 PM   #60
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you've seen my setup, right? single xmember but with two OE mounts, tranny and crawler. (which I need to pull and check for a busted mount at the moment )
Yes, I remember yours. Does it have a removable skid?
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