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Old 10-20-2010, 02:58 PM   #31
fnl4rw29r
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Default Frame Reinforcement

Although I don't intend to run this truck in the Baja 1000, I had read about people having their frames crack. Ok, great, but that would never happen to me. Then a friend of a friend had the frame of their FJ break a week later. I was already ordering sliders from Demello and figured the extra $100 was cheap insurance (and I really wanted an excuse to weld something ). The reinforcement pieces are .120" steel with lightening holes. They fit perfect around all the welds and extrusions in the frame EXCEPT the fuel filler tube mount. Not a big deal. Once the bed was off we cut the mounting bracket off and saved it for later with the intent to weld it back on over the reinforcement.

I had limited time to work each day and knew that we couldn't finish both sides in the allotted time. I got magnetic tail lights (the kind used for towing a vehicle) for $10 and stuck them to the frame. The circuit doesn't work if both tail lights are unplugged so we zip tied one to the inside of the bumper.



Tail light zipped to the bumper



We then tacked the reinforcement on



I had a bit of anxiety about welding near the gas tank. To ease my nerves, we covered it as best we could with wet shirts to cool the splatter quickly. I only have a wire feed welder so the raw welds aren't very pretty but after some heavy wire brushing they look pretty good. We then painted over them with Rustoleum Bed Liner after washing the whole thing with acetone.

Final product seasoned with a bit of dirt.



Fuel filler tube bracket reinstalled



I honestly didn't think these would do much more than transfer energy better during a rear end collision and give me worse whiplash but wow did they stiffen up the back end. There is a certain freeway around here that with the right wheelbase can really get a vehicle hopping. The truck used to feel like it was actually bending back and forth when traveling this stretch. I always thought it was just a weird sensation and that the truck couldn't actually be bending... maybe it was. What ever it was doing it is doing it a whole lot less now that these are stuck to the sides of the frame. Are they worth it from a time, energy and financial stand point? Up to you. I certainly did enjoy installing them though.

Last edited by fnl4rw29r; 10-22-2010 at 11:27 AM.
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Old 10-20-2010, 03:12 PM   #32
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Default Sliders

I got a set of bolt on sliders from Demello Off Road. I had intended to get the all tubular pair but they already had a set of hybrids (half square, half round) built and let me have 'em for the same price. These are not light. Granted, I think these are the only sliders I've ever picked up but damn are they heavy! The bolting on was super simple. 3 out of the 4 mounting brackets utilized holes already in the frame. The 4th I drilled with a unibit after making a small pilot hole. A right angle drill head is needed to make the final hole because of the way the body hangs over the frame on the outside and the placement of the exhaust on the other. Not a big deal and it went a whole lot faster than I could have imagined. So far they haven't been used as armor but they make great steps for accessing the roof rack and tying down my canoe.

Slider mounts



Sliders from above



I was under the impression that they would hug the body a little closer and was a bit disappointed but now I think they're perfect. They extend out far enough to provided side protection if the trail gets tight through a canyon or trees (as long as you aren't tipped to the side that is).

During my deer hunt- sliders installed

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Old 10-20-2010, 03:21 PM   #33
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by drabnor View Post
so you went from: +12v---to the light---ground from light---to the correct side of the rheostat ?

because thats how it should work... methinks you got on the wrong side of the rheostat?
I'm so puzzled on this thing. I tried hooking them up to every wire (3) going in and out of that thing and they either come on with no dimming, work backwards with the dimmer, or don't work at all. Tried switching ground and +12V, using just ground and hot w/ key, etc.

Last edited by fnl4rw29r; 04-01-2012 at 01:17 PM.
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Old 10-20-2010, 03:40 PM   #34
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Default Yakima Canoe Mounts

I had been talking and talking with friends about how much I wanted a canoe and how awesome it would be to have a canoe and how often we'd all go fishing if I had a canoe. Then one friend gave me a set of Yakima canoe mounts for my rack. Then I had to buy a canoe. They're simple but work pretty well. I've mobbed down the trail to our favorite put-in spot faster than a truck as heavy as mine probably should go, slid through the corners and gotten light over the crests and haven't had it shift yet. As for how it works on top of the mega warrior, the boat itself fits a bit weird. I have light mounts installed in the back for my eventual auxiliary lights so the distance between the rear mounts is limited. This makes the boat sit farther forward on the rack but more centered over the truck. The first few times out I strapped it down as you see it here.



I later built a support for over the cab out of PVC and feel much better about it.

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Old 04-01-2012, 12:28 PM   #35
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Default ARB Air Locker Part 1

Because I'm choosing not to use ARB's compressor to supply the air to actuate the locker, I've had to piece together the pneumatics and electronics to make it work.

The ARB air lockers require 90psi to operate and I've read that over 100psi can damage the seals. Originally, I had an 85-105psi pressure switch installed with my Viair system. After scouring post after post and build after build, the decision was made to make a change. The 85-105 was scrapped in favor of the 110-150psi switch and between the tank and the locker solenoid lies a regulator adjusted to 90psi so that the locker can be cycled many times before the compressor needs to kick on. If I had kept the 85-105 switch I could probably only get a couple cycles of the locker and it would probably stay engaged maybe an hour before recharging (keep in mind these are all guess numbers because my locker wasn't installed with the original setup).

Here's the pneumatics:

Yes, I know the "T" fitting should have been set up 90 degrees off from how it's seen here but that was all already together before having to include the manifold to accommodate the regulator. I was afraid to pull it apart after having tightened everything down so it stayed just as it was.

The wiring harness built by ARB comes with the compressor. Since I'm not using their compressor, I don't have one. I tried briefly to order one from Marlin Crawler but it was back ordered for months and I finally cancelled it. The hookup really isn't that complicated but no diagram is included with the locker. Here's how it all goes together:


The switch fits nicely in the empty slots with minimal modification. The bay needs to be widened vertically for the body of the switch to fit and the switch needs to be skinnied up in the long direction so the lip will countersink. Here it is:


Next comes the hard part... Probably wont get around to the locker install until summer because, if you've followed this you know, my truck is a daily driver and due to the gig I'm on right now, need the thing operational 7 days/ week until June.
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Last edited by fnl4rw29r; 04-08-2012 at 11:32 AM.
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Old 04-01-2012, 12:45 PM   #36
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Default Wires and such

Quote:
Originally Posted by fnl4rw29r View Post
I'm so puzzled on this thing. I tried hooking them up to every wire (3) going in and out of that thing and they either come on with no dimming, work backwards with the dimmer, or don't work at all. Tried switching ground and +12V, using just ground and hot w/ key, etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by loudboy View Post
Reverse the wires?

I'd have to see a diagram to tell you more, I havent seen how these are wired up.

Nice looking truck though, there are definitely some ideas there that I would like to end up using in the future
Quote:
Originally Posted by drabnor View Post
so you went from: +12v---to the light---ground from light---to the correct side of the rheostat ?

because thats how it should work... methinks you got on the wrong side of the rheostat?

So you guys told me, I didn't understand. The rheostat does indeed control the ground. Instead of pulling + to GND as I had imagined, it pulls GND to +. While pulling my dash apart in preparation for a Uniden CB in the ashtray location, I put a test light on the wiring going to the light that used to live in the ashtray and a light went on (pun totally intended). Thanks everyone. I'm an idiot.

Furthermore: I now have lots of wire under the dash. To clarify, lots of red wires that all look the same. When I first started installing wiring, I "knew" I would remember how everything was run... Some time has passed since the initial install of a lot of this stuff. I had to retrace EVERYTHING. Advice: LABEL YOUR WIRES. Mine is simple. Write it small on paper and scotch tape it to the wire.

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Old 04-01-2012, 02:54 PM   #37
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Nice build. How's the "measure once cut twice" working for you lately?
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Old 04-08-2012, 11:34 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wainiha View Post
Nice build. How's the "measure once cut twice" working for you lately?
Ya know, I can't figure out why I cut things three times and they still end up too short...
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Old 04-08-2012, 11:43 AM   #39
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Default Brake Bias

When I installed the rear springs I discovered that there is a brake bias proportioning valve tied to the rear axle that adjusts the braking power of the rear brakes depending on how much weight it thinks is on the tires. It uses distance between the truck and the axle as the measuring device. I only added an inch, maybe inch and a half to the rear so I didn’t feel any adjustment needed to be made… Then I blew through brake pads quicker than I ever have on any vehicle (I drive this thing like a little old lady –one who doesn’t ride the brakes- on road and downshift religiously).

Bay Area Metal Fab makes an adjustable bracket to fix this and it’s more bang for the buck than anything I could have thrown together. It takes less than an hour to go from box to truck including prep/ paint/ dry so only about 3 minutes of actual work and 57 minutes of waiting for paint to dry.



Holy crap was I missing out on some stopping power! I’m not sure exactly how far above stock my truck sits but my best guess is between 1 and 2 inches. I installed the bracket for 1.5 – 2 inches and the difference is amazing. It may be adjusted up a little too high but I've yet to feel the ABS kick in (actually not sure if ABS is only on the front or all 4 wheels - haven't locked the rears up either). I’ll update if I blow through brake shoes in 5,000 miles…
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:41 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geo4X4 View Post
nice trailer, hippy!

great progress, pilgrim.



i dig it
That trailer has seen the edge of the world and returned (despite all odds). I've taken it out many times fully expecting it to fall apart and then be forced to cut it up and pack it out. I really need to build a good off road trailer...

This was one of several trips down to the Colorado River. 1000 apologies for posting pics of a Jeep on here but until the truck is locked up, it aint makin' this voyage.

6 people, supplies for 3 winter nights, 13 grueling miles, only 4 seats.





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Old 04-08-2012, 07:17 PM   #41
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I like yer psychedelic trailer

the wiring to the fuse box... not so much
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Originally Posted by Scootn2nature View Post
so fuck off you little 18 yr old lying ass punk.
'00 Taco SR5, xtrcab, V6, 5-SP, 4X, and some extras...

Truck...
~n~ ...off road action photo's
Trailer...

Truck build --- Trailer build
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Old 04-11-2012, 01:32 AM   #42
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helluvajob. Are you out by monkey hole in the jeep?
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:18 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by TacoDell View Post
I like yer psychedelic trailer

the wiring to the fuse box... not so much
Workin on straightening up the wiring. I know it's a mess but it's all fused and tucked out of sight.
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:24 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingysataday View Post
helluvajob. Are you out by monkey hole in the jeep?
Farther North. Burrow Wash. Last time I was down there it was washed out so bad in parts that we had to stack rocks to get a even a TRD Prerunner Taco sitting on 305x75r16s back out. Trailer would not have made it...
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Old 04-12-2012, 02:17 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by fnl4rw29r View Post
Workin on straightening up the wiring. I know it's a mess but it's all fused and tucked out of sight.
It's not the looks of it that concerns me...
I just don't like using the oem fuse panel to run optional pwr. accessories to.

Instead... I would rather install a dedicated fuse block/panel
powered direct off the battery and run all the accessories to that.

Just seems smarter to me, to not draw thru the truck's e system circuit.

I'm sure it will work fine for you...
it's just not my style
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Originally Posted by Scootn2nature View Post
so fuck off you little 18 yr old lying ass punk.
'00 Taco SR5, xtrcab, V6, 5-SP, 4X, and some extras...

Truck...
~n~ ...off road action photo's
Trailer...

Truck build --- Trailer build

Last edited by TacoDell; 04-12-2012 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:52 PM   #46
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I really like your build! Simple and functional, I am looking at putting a canopy on mine soon but I'm also tossed up about losing cargo height, also I haul a dirt bike but may get a hitch mounted carrier for that.
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:03 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fnl4rw29r View Post
I honestly didn't think these would do much more than transfer energy better during a rear end collision and give me worse whiplash but wow did they stiffen up the back end. There is a certain freeway around here that with the right wheelbase can really get a vehicle hopping. The truck used to feel like it was actually bending back and forth when traveling this stretch. I always thought it was just a weird sensation and that the truck couldn't actually be bending... maybe it was. What ever it was doing it is doing it a whole lot less now that these are stuck to the sides of the frame. Are they worth it from a time, energy and financial stand point? Up to you. I certainly did enjoy installing them though.
still is btw...

now that you stiffened the rear portion of the frame rails...
the weak spot or most frame flex will be noticeable
just forward of the leaf spring forward perches.

Not much can be done to avoid that tho'

Set the truck down on some jack stands at that frame location...
and you will see the amount of flex still there.
Can be seen or measured by looking at the gap
between the bed and the cab. (especially noticeable if a bed shell resides)

Plating or boxing the rear rails simply stiffens things up out back
so that the rails don't crack or bend as easily when weight
is added to the farthest rear portion of the bed.

just sayin'
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scootn2nature View Post
so fuck off you little 18 yr old lying ass punk.
'00 Taco SR5, xtrcab, V6, 5-SP, 4X, and some extras...

Truck...
~n~ ...off road action photo's
Trailer...

Truck build --- Trailer build
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