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Old 04-07-2012, 03:20 PM   #1
Box Rocket
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Default Box Rocket IFS front skidplate

Built my new front skidplate last night and finished it up this morning. 3/16th plate and 3/16th angle for the mounting brackets. Turned out ok and will definitely be better than the stock skids. Next up is the trans and belly skid this next week.







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Old 04-07-2012, 06:07 PM   #2
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looks good ! 3/16ths ?

did you put any supports behind the forward plate ?

how many and where are the screws/bolts holding it on (lower and rear) ?
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Old 04-08-2012, 01:13 PM   #3
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Yep 3/16ths. If it's strong enough for BudBuilts, I'm sure it will be just fine. The design is basically the same as the Bud Builts. Front attachment (3 bolts) at the frame crossmember and rear attachment to the two large bolts for the rack and pinion.

The trans skid I'll be building will attach to the rear of the front skid and then to the t-case crossmember. The belly skid will attach at the t-case crossmember and have a custom crossmember at the rear for support. I will add some bracing to the belly skid since those tend to bend first.
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Old 04-10-2012, 09:36 PM   #4
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How about some pics during the fab process?

looks good!
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:40 AM   #5
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How about some pics during the fab process?

looks good!
Didnt take any. Sorry. Ill try to get some of the other skids.
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:45 PM   #6
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Nice! I'll be doing something similar soon.... I really like how yours turned out, man!
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Old 04-11-2012, 02:41 PM   #7
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Nice! I'll be doing something similar soon.... I really like how yours turned out, man!
Aren't you going SAS? or just adding 4WD and staying IFS?
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:20 PM   #8
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Did you make the bends yourself or drop off at a fab shop?
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:33 PM   #9
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Aren't you going SAS? or just adding 4WD and staying IFS?
Nope, staying IFS and just adding 4wd... Would love to do a SAS but that's still at least 5 years down the road I think.
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:59 PM   #10
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Did you make the bends yourself or drop off at a fab shop?
Made the bends myself. They're "whiskey bends", I cut the plate most of the way through with my cutting wheel so I could bend the plate then welded the seam and ground it smooth. Wish I had a press brake to do bends but I've got pretty basic tools so I make do with what I have.
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Old 04-11-2012, 04:58 PM   #11
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Made the bends myself. They're "whiskey bends", I cut the plate most of the way through with my cutting wheel so I could bend the plate then welded the seam and ground it smooth. Wish I had a press brake to do bends but I've got pretty basic tools so I make do with what I have.
You inspire me.
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Made the bends myself. They're "whiskey bends", I cut the plate most of the way through with my cutting wheel so I could bend the plate then welded the seam and ground it smooth. Wish I had a press brake to do bends but I've got pretty basic tools so I make do with what I have.
Awesome. Do you do the scoring on the outside of the bend or the inside? Could you please post another picture of the rear mounting spots?
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Old 04-11-2012, 06:29 PM   #13
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looks good. i used the cut and bend method on my skids. i cut on the inside
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:30 PM   #14
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NVM on the pic, I see what you did.
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Old 04-12-2012, 11:36 AM   #15
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I cut on the outside of the bends. I'll try to get a couple better pics of the brackets where it attaches to the steering rack. Took quite a bit of custom shaping to get those to fit right.
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:09 PM   #16
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looks good. i used the cut and bend method on my skids. i cut on the inside
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I cut on the outside of the bends. I'll try to get a couple better pics of the brackets where it attaches to the steering rack. Took quite a bit of custom shaping to get those to fit right.
Interesting.... I wonder which method (cutting on the inside, or outside) is stronger? Or if there's a difference? You'd oubviously want it to be able to withstand heavy impacts on the outside corner....

And thanks, man. Pictures of those brackets would be lovely.
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Old 04-13-2012, 11:27 AM   #17
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Interesting.... I wonder which method (cutting on the inside, or outside) is stronger? Or if there's a difference? You'd oubviously want it to be able to withstand heavy impacts on the outside corner....

And thanks, man. Pictures of those brackets would be lovely.
My opinion is that if you make the cut on the inside of the bend then you are closing the gap created by the cut. By making the cut on the outside of the bend you open the gap wider when the bend is made and it allows for more weld material to fill the gap than would be possible with the other method. To me that just seems stronger. I might be wrong, but to my untrained mind, it makes sense.
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Old 04-13-2012, 01:20 PM   #18
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My opinion is that if you make the cut on the inside of the bend then you are closing the gap created by the cut. By making the cut on the outside of the bend you open the gap wider when the bend is made and it allows for more weld material to fill the gap than would be possible with the other method. To me that just seems stronger. I might be wrong, but to my untrained mind, it makes sense.

you would be correct
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Old 04-14-2012, 10:02 AM   #19
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How's the t-case and belly skids coming along, man? Are you going to make you're own crossmember, or are you buying one?
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:10 PM   #20
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How's the t-case and belly skids coming along, man? Are you going to make you're own crossmember, or are you buying one?
Haven't been able to start on them yet. I'm at soccer games all day with my boys and going out tonight with my wife so they might have to wait until next week. As for the crossmember, I'm building my own using some crossmember mounts from Ruffstuff.
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Old 04-17-2012, 11:50 AM   #21
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I finished cutting and welding the tranny skid last night. It still needs paint but it's about ready to go. I should have pics ready soon. I should get the belly skid done this weekend.
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Old 04-17-2012, 02:33 PM   #22
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Old 04-17-2012, 04:02 PM   #23
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Built the trans skid last night and used the same 'whiskey bend' method as I did on the front skid. I had several people ask about how I did that so here are a few pics.

using a cutting wheel I cut almost all the way through the plate ( on the outside of the bend) and bent the plate. The gap is then fully welded and ground smooth.





Couple pics of the trans skid. Like I said, it still needs paint and a couple holes drilled so I can bolt it to the back of my IFS skid (the slanted peice will attach to the front skid) and there are a couple custom brackets welded to my stock crossmember where it will attach on the back.



It covers just the tranny pan. The upright peices are notched to clear the tube going into the pan on the passenger side, and the driverside is clearanced a bit more for the driveshaft. I could have made the skid wider but I chose not to in an effort to keep the weight down as much as I could. It still covers what I need it too. It's tucked up pretty high and I think it will be pretty rare that I actually drag it on stuff. The t-case skid will get more abuse.

Bottom side


Lastly, some had asked to see better pics of the brackets on the rear of the front skid where it attaches to the steering rack. I had to custom shape these to fit around the steering rack but they're solid and should work well.









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Old 04-17-2012, 04:19 PM   #24
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interested to see the T case. i wouldnt think the tranny plate is super necessary, but i do have a manual
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Old 04-17-2012, 04:20 PM   #25
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I agree, not critical but better safe than sorry.
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Old 04-17-2012, 06:40 PM   #26
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Nice!
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Old 04-17-2012, 10:59 PM   #27
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thats for the pics man.

so basically trail and error on the angles and filament??
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Old 04-18-2012, 10:30 AM   #28
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thats for the pics man.

so basically trail and error on the angles and filament??
Not too much trial and error to deal with since most of the bends are 90*. It's just that forward bend on the tranny skid that needed to match the IFS skid that needed a little back and forth.
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Old 04-18-2012, 11:59 AM   #29
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Sweet! Looks great.
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Old 04-18-2012, 04:53 PM   #30
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Hey Mr. Rocket,

I have a man trans, I am assuming your DC has an auto with the "taller" radiator (trans fluid cooler in the bottom). My question is how much clearance, more or less, is there between your skid and the bottom of your radiator and what is the approx "hang down" of your skid from the front mount. I ask because Showstop, I think, once posted that all Toyota service replacement radiators now come with the provision for the trans cooler. I want to build with a slant back from the front mount along the lines of these drawings

http://www.mikeharan.net/temp/skidplate1.pdf
http://www.mikeharan.net/temp/skidplate2.pdf

The above will clear the man trans radiator BUT should I need to replace the radiator in the future it would be nice to know about fitment issues.

Thanks in advance.
EDIT I made up an accurate cardboard mock up using the above drawings. It does fit (man trans radiator) more or less. For anyone going this route, consider the drawings as a starting point for a quick template that will bolt right up. Then you can adjust/customize pretty quickly from there. I will be tweaking just about everything to one degree or another.
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