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Old 12-15-2011, 02:25 AM   #31
weltz99
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Thanks for the info, one other thing I forgot. Does anybody make a freakin flange for the input for a Ford 9??
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Old 12-15-2011, 02:30 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weltz99 View Post
Thanks for the info, one other thing I forgot. Does anybody make a freakin flange for the input for a Ford 9??
Inchworm should...if they don't they can make one.
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:41 AM   #33
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For the 9" your going to need a new DS most likely, So simply use toy on one end and the ford on the other. Chances are it will be cheaper than an addapter.


As far as the D44, you got that out of a 79 Ford and you also got a Dodge D44 housing?

I am assuming that the Ford axle is out of an f150 or bronco that had radius arms. If so, that year on those trucks, the axle has the cast outer wedges, with no tube that goes between. That is going to make it very hard to go with anything other than a radius arm set up, unless you re-tube it.

If the Ford is out of a f250 with leafs it may make things easier for you.

The dodge housing isnt HP is it? I have never seen a dodge with an HP in it. Im a little confussed about this ... your using the Ford housing right?



As far as knuckles i used Ford Knuckles from Diedenber (Sp?) They are milled flat top and have the four highsteer arm bolts. I am very familiar with what you have going on here, so let me know if you have any questions. Im running a d44 with a 9" as well.
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Old 12-15-2011, 05:34 PM   #34
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I am running a F-250 HP housing with dodge knuckles (flat top). All I know is that ford lockout hubs (from a early 90's F-150) fits on my friends dodge knuckles. I will be asking him more about it to see if they will fit other ford parts...

I was wanting to go flange cause I always liked flanges way better than typical yokes. Ive seen too many of those let loose. I was planning on having to get a new driveshaft regardless.

Yes the dodge housing was a LP and its already thrown away for scrap. It had the front disconnect (junk) haha.

Thanks for all the questions and comments, really helping me figure everything out
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:24 PM   #35
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I am running a F-250 HP housing with dodge knuckles (flat top). All I know is that ford lockout hubs (from a early 90's F-150) fits on my friends dodge knuckles. I will be asking him more about it to see if they will fit other ford parts...

I was wanting to go flange cause I always liked flanges way better than typical yokes. Ive seen too many of those let loose. I was planning on having to get a new driveshaft regardless.

Yes the dodge housing was a LP and its already thrown away for scrap. It had the front disconnect (junk) haha.

Thanks for all the questions and comments, really helping me figure everything out
I believe all 3 will work, Ford, Chebby, Dodge...as far as outers go. Most go with Chebby brakes, bearings, etc. from what I've seen posted.

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Old 12-16-2011, 09:08 AM   #36
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Jeep D44 outers work as well.....


So the f250 was on leafs right? IIRC the taco frame is wider than the F150, 250, bronco frames, so the perches dont line up. but if your linking it, You shouldnt have any issues setting it up for a 3 link, as far as the axle goes. Oil pan could get interesting if your going that low.

Im at 24.5 inches on 39.5's. I have 12" travel up front with about 4" up and my pan hard just kisses my o-pan on the driver side when fully stuffed. But after almost 3 years of hard wheeling the paint is still there, just little scuff marks


I think its about time to start posting some picts right?
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Old 12-17-2011, 12:09 AM   #37
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Yeah it was from a leaf sprung rig.

I wont be cutting until I put the cage in around March. Its pretty much part gathering right now.
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Old 12-22-2011, 04:49 AM   #38
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Okay Ive been going through Parts Mike and getting everything I need together for the grand total from them.

My friend who is very knowledgeable with link suspension setups (currently is building a KOH buggy) suggested I should pick up the ruff stuff 3 link kit. My question is what options should I pick on that. like the offset pandhard, in-line panhard, etc....I asked him and he said it was more a Toyota question. So anybody have any recommendations what would be the better fit? I just don't know what kind of room Ill be dealing with. oh by the way I am planning on stretching the front 3-4 inches.

Here's the link for the ruffstuff 3 link kit. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...g/3LINKKT.html

Thanks for all the info, much appreciated
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:55 AM   #39
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I love working with both parts Mike and Dan at Ruff stuff. Both offer great knowledge and customer services.

Now with that said. I have had nothing but bad luck with any "kit" that i have purchased for anything when i did my swap. Granted Ruff stuff did not have that "Kit" at the time.

As far as the options listed:
Outside frame Panhard
Off set panhard

I need some schooling on the option about Tower direction, not sure what their talking about there.


I pushed my axle as far forward as possible, IIRC that was about 4" . I pushed the box as far forward as possible, ended up cutting into the radiator support to get as far as i did.

Question: Do you all think the 1.25 Heims are big/strong enough to get beat on like we beat on stuff? They sound little small.....


I built all the brackets on mine.

Pan hard frame mount:


You can see in this pict that the panhard is in front of axle center line. Can also see that there isnt much room down there.
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Old 12-22-2011, 04:13 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weltz99 View Post
Okay Ive been going through Parts Mike and getting everything I need together for the grand total from them.

My friend who is very knowledgeable with link suspension setups (currently is building a KOH buggy) suggested I should pick up the ruff stuff 3 link kit. My question is what options should I pick on that. like the offset pandhard, in-line panhard, etc....I asked him and he said it was more a Toyota question. So anybody have any recommendations what would be the better fit? I just don't know what kind of room Ill be dealing with. oh by the way I am planning on stretching the front 3-4 inches.

Here's the link for the ruffstuff 3 link kit. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...g/3LINKKT.html

Thanks for all the info, much appreciated
also, check with the AZ gang as there are several in that chapter who have extreme custom 3-link setups that are well proven.
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Old 12-22-2011, 05:55 PM   #41
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Quote:
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I love working with both parts Mike and Dan at Ruff stuff. Both offer great knowledge and customer services.
My buddies all work with them, from what I hear they are awesome to work with and they try the hardest to get exactly what you need.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mythica View Post
Now with that said. I have had nothing but bad luck with any "kit" that i have purchased for anything when i did my swap. Granted Ruff stuff did not have that "Kit" at the time.
Im sure I will have to do some fabrication to the mounts and what not. just the heims would almost cost me as much as the kit.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mythica View Post
As far as the options listed:
Outside frame Panhard
Off set panhard
Thanks a lot for this info, so hard to see what would work better without have the IFS cut out of it yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mythica View Post
I need some schooling on the option about Tower direction, not sure what their talking about there.
Yeah it was the first I heard those terms, I will ask my buddy and see if he knows.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mythica View Post
I pushed my axle as far forward as possible, IIRC that was about 4" . I pushed the box as far forward as possible, ended up cutting into the radiator support to get as far as i did.
I was thinking a 3 inch stretch, don't want to go too much longer. We have a lot of tight trails and being wider too should make it interesting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mythica View Post
Question: Do you all think the 1.25 Heims are big/strong enough to get beat on like we beat on stuff? They sound little small.....
Its the biggest heims Ruff stuff makes. They are about the size of a small fist.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Mythica View Post
I built all the brackets on mine.

Pan hard frame mount:


You can see in this pict that the panhard is in front of axle center line. Can also see that there isnt much room down there.
Thanks for the pictures! Any of the whole truck??


Thanks a lot for all the input!


PS. hopefully that picture works, its off his facebook
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Old 12-23-2011, 09:01 AM   #42
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lol yeah i would say that those heims will work out.



Heres a couple picts .... i dont have many, lol i seem to be the only one that takes picts on our trips.


Here is one from right after the swap, (i like this pict for some reason)




More recent


I need to recruit a photographer


Merry Christmas!!!
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Old 12-23-2011, 02:55 PM   #43
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i pushed my axle forward 3" and also had to cut away/fab a new body mount because of the box being pushed so far forward. The IFS box i built mine with I got from another member and came off of a 4runner i believe. I bought Wyatt's old IFS box and the cylindrical part on it facing the front of the truck is about an inch or so shorter than the one I currently run......if i'd have had that to begin with it'd made my build a few days shorter
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Old 01-04-2012, 05:56 PM   #44
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Just made a order a couple days ago through ruffstuff. The 3-link kit is on its way along with 9" swap kit for the rear and disc brake conversion.

Doing the rear first and hopefully the lift will be up by the time Im ready to do the front. Got the bed all ready to be pulled off, just waiting for a warmer day to take out back (been a high of 5 degrees). Then Im cutting all the stock crossmembers out, reinforcing the frame and boxing it, all new crossmembers. Swapping the 9" in and getting it prepped for the cage. Ill be ordering the front frame plates and oil pan on the 15th.
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Old 01-05-2012, 06:35 AM   #45
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be sure to take frame width measurements before taking out the crossmembers. If you can, reinforce the frame 1st then cut them out one at a time welding the new ones in. It will help keep things from moving on you if that's of any importance to you.

I did a rear crossmember that my lower links attach to out of 2x4 rectangle tube and it turned out very nicely. the rest are .120 wall 1.75" round tube.
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:36 AM   #46
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Very nice!


Who did you go with for the Disk swap? I have an extra 9" sitting in the shop and want to convert it over before putting under the truck.

lol the drums are useless.,
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Old 01-05-2012, 05:31 PM   #47
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silverback, thanks for the advice. My frame needs to be tweaked anyways, the passenger frame rail is sitting a tad low in the rear. Keeping it perfectly straight isnt a huge concern for me. But Ill probably do the outer frame plates first then cut the old cross members out and continue with the new cross members and boxing. might even swap the spring perches out while im in that deep.

Mythica, I ordered the weld on ones from ruffstuff. Uses bronco rotors and chevy calipers.

heres the link http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/.../9WELD325.html
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Old 01-06-2012, 03:33 PM   #48
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Ok i have seen those on the site, thanks for the link.

But i need some schooling as to how it all fits together. I will be watching your build ....

I cant pitcure how they actually work.

Does the rotor attach straight to the "stock" axle? Or are there spindles involved. I see that the braket holds the caliper, just cant picture how the rest goes together.
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Old 01-06-2012, 05:12 PM   #49
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Yeah I will make sure Ill take goo pictures of that for ya. Gonna ask a buddy of mine in my local club, I believe he has a converted 9" not quite positive.

In a week Ill be ordering by drive flange for the 9" and possible the oil pan. we'll see after I pay my bills (damn money!!) hahaha

Im hoping to get up to the shop and work on it some beginning of the week in between classes, and work and I will snap some pics.
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Old 01-25-2012, 07:08 PM   #50
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Parts came in from ruffstuff. Some really nice stuff from them, very impressed. have pics but need to take better ones....will post soon.
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Old 04-25-2012, 10:25 PM   #51
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So I havent been on here in a while.


Update:

Frame is straight and fully boxed. Got my wheels for the new axles. Bought all my tubing for the full cage along with corbeau JP seats, 5 point harness and winch mount.

Truck is gonna be under the knife next weekend as we start the caging. Ordering all my axle parts and sas parts this weekend except for drive shafts and front shocks this weekend.

Also I will be going 14 inch air shocks in the rear with the leafs, holding on the front to see what length I need.
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Old 05-01-2012, 11:15 PM   #52
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Picked up

barnes 4wd rear truss
btf rear diff armor
all mys brakes
wheel bearings/seals
spindle bearings
lock out hubs


will be getting

ruffstuff front diff armor
lockright for the front
chromoly shafts
high steer arms


For shafts is there a company preferred over another?
I was looking at these... http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-159...le-shafts.html
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