Dell's M100 Trailer

[TacoDell]

well after throwing new tires and wheels on muh junk...

I found out that it changed life for the trailer's tongue height.

so... I tried leveling the trailer to the truck with a 5 1/4" drop hitch...
and after looking at that a bit... decided I didn't like that so much.

Sooo... I decided to invert the Max C and see where that put me.

Is fairly close... but a little tongue high still
as the trailer is slightly canted to the rear...
but I think when I'm loaded up fully... things will settle a 'Lil at the tongue.

This again is probably only temporary...
as I'm thinking about upgrading the tires on the trailer to the 7.50 MT's

^ thinking those will give me the ride height needed
to better match up to the 295 Kooks I recently mounted to muh junk.
(I'm ignoring the spring over/axle swap mods at this point)

Anyway... anyone else running their Max Coupler inverted ?


I realize it leaves the Max C a little vulnerable...
But I'll weld a tail dragger off the hitch... so that will hit first...
and maybe save the Max C from certain death.

~I'd sure feel better if that upper nut were pinned or safety wired~

[Box Rocket]

I'm using a Lock-n-Roll instead of the Max Coupler so I don't have firsthand experience but I really like the Max design. I would imagine it would still work just fine inverted like you have it.

But I have the same concerns you do with protecting the coupler and the nut hitch bolt/nut upside down. My tire carrier has the hinge bolt in the same position but it doesn't have the constant load and movement that your hitch would have.

I think something like a pinned castle nut would do the trick.

[TacoDell]

Was contemplating a purchase for a longer bolt...
seems the thickness of my drop hitch (ball mount) tongue
should be slightly less thick... another user elsewhere claims.

guess there's no standard to these ball mount drop hitches

Thinking I'll need to find a shop that could mill out the surface(s) of the drop hitch's tongue some...
grinding the surface thinner by hand and eye... well...
I'm not so sure I could grind it even or level.

So... if I can find someone who can mill out say...
the thickness of the washer above and below the drop hitch's tongue...
that would likely eliminate the need of a longer bolt.
And if a extra few threads were showing above the nut's surface..
I'd have less concern about pinning the nut.

I'm having to run it inverted at the moment...
Because I installed taller tires on my hauler...
and because using a 5.25 drop hangs too low IMO...

A hang up isn't my worst fear...
instead I'm more worried that if mounted normally
and with the 5.25 drop hitch...
the nut would get hammered up... and might even loosen that during trail use...
and a hammered nut is a bitch to put a box wrench to.

A pinned bolt would be safety pacifier if I were to run it as is...
but that's if I can find one with similar specs, but longer.


Inverted isn't the greatest solution...
but it might work out alright... as long as I can figure out a way to protect the coupler from getting too hammered.

I've thought to incorporate a "tail dragger" (not sure what to call it)
That would be welded directly to the lower side off the drop mount (myPicbelow)
and made of equally thick plate as the drop hitch...
If it holds up to the abuse... might help keep the MC from getting hammered when bottoming out on the trail.

It would likely need to hang lower then I prefer...
tho' maybe not as low as the 5.25 drop hitch (+ nut) does
But it's an option of sorts.

picture of the cloud in muh head...



^ I'm currently weighing things in my mind... testing the waters if you will.

I probably should just breakdown and purchase taller tires for the trailer..
I was ok with how it was set up before When tire sizes matched more equally...
as we're only talking 1/2" tire height increase on the hauler...
so... staying with military tires/wheels... a 7.50 might help in the matter.

[TacoDell]

so I gotta re-level the trailer some...
And figured I'd test the Max Coupler's grit

Hopefully pics will better describe..
or a least entertain this thread.

2" drop, upright coupler...(excluding coupler's 2.5 rise to pin OC )
~trailer sits tongue high~




5.25" drop upright coupler...
~I don't like that the drop sits this low, but trailer is closer to level~






0" rise, Inverted coupler... ( the coupler's pin drops 2.5" OC )
~inverted is nearly level as the 5.25 drop, with less anchor~





^ I'm trying to get as close to a level trailer as I can...
but minimize clearance or obstruction issues.
These pictures reflect an unloaded trailer and hauler...
Some added weight will likely bring it closer to level.
^ pictures above show without full load/weight to the trailer/hauler

Coupler modification...
~to offer the coupler more entry/departure angle~

before...







after...









Close up view of the couplers bolt/washer assembly...







90* stop/bump and misc pics...
~note - spare tire/bumper act as stop~





misc pictures...
~possibly I was bored~








assorted couplers...

L - R

2" d
3.25" d
4" d
5.25" d.

[Stealth 4x4]

What a sweet setup. Back it into the campsite to 90 degrees, truck bed is easily accessible, tailgate still goes down without hitting anything, its simple to "circle the wagons" and you don't even have to unhitch! And when its time to break camp, just drive away... Well thought-out, simple, functional. Great work, man!

Originally Posted by TacoDell

[TacoDell]

it backs purdy well into a 90*
even at the campsite...



and... is ready to roll out... in just a few



Thanks for commenting...
and the kind words
It's nice that someone else might appreciate my effort/result

intend to do some refinement to the set up...
but the summer has got to fizzle out before I will start up again

[TacoDell]

because someone thought my safety chains were dragging too much...
I adjusted those somewhat...
crudely welded up maybe... but it should hold
if it don't... I'll cut it off and do it over









I also finally ordered/installed some red web strap to cover(sleeve) the chains
holding the fuel cans...

I think the original black web sleeves looked better,
but, oh well... I can't see it back there when I'm wheelin'

I also had to massage the stay rods holding the fuel caps secure
swelling of the fuel cans dictated that adjustment, because...
I need to tilt the cans out... and the rod was just too close.
a 5lb. sledge made it an easy adjustment

[valon5150]

Got to say I like what you have done to the trailer. But I have a big question for people dell. Every trailer build I see ends up being some ex military trailer It seams like you are well researched so I thought I'd ask you. Why did you go with a m100? I feel like when I want a trailer I'd just go simple and cheap and get a toy pickup bed trailer for about 100 bucks if not cheaper throw some 63 chevys on it so it has a little flex and call it good. What are your thoughts on that for the bases for a trailer,

[TacoDell]

Thanks for the considerate words and for checking out muh build thread

^ I'm going to get back to work on it eventually (soon).
as I have a few things to finish up.
Besides giving myself a little more time for physical healing
I've been making excuses with myself and have come to realize
I have been somewhat lazy to get started up again.

---------------------------

For me... it was the nostalgia, originality
and that it has proven itself reliable and durable
in the most abusive situation it could be in.

It also had to do with the commonality of parts
shared with the earlier WWII trailers... size, dimensions, weight, etc.
Tho' pricey... there is more support for the WWII junk.

I prefer the smaller earlier WWII era trailers
because they are lighter and easier to tow
especially if you really get serious about it.

The M416 is somewhat larger, heavier, etc.
and tho' it has advantages as a more spacious hauler...
It's also heavier and bulkier then it's earlier siblings.

There are probably a bunch of other reasons I went this route...
but primarily it was because I was able to find this one at a fair market price,
local to me, and thought it would make a great start for my needs.

In truth... if yer going to use a trailer and beat the holy hell outta it...
or modify it to the extremes...

I would think it better to build from scratch...
if you have the time and skillz

You'll be less concerned about it's historical value. my

[TacoDell]

finally got around to mounting the data plates back on...
unfortunately, my current build does not allow for the original mounting locations...
so I relocated them to a custom temporary panel
Which I mounted to fit the cable box supports.

having the original data plate(s) secured to the M100... was my primary goal.
^ that ways I don't lose 'dem