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4runner rear tailgate window .

2K views 8 replies 4 participants last post by  yota 44 
#1 ·
I suck at wiring ....

Most of you know I had a pickup while I was in Colorado . I moved back to nevada and I swapped (every thing) over to a 4runner body and frame . My pickup wiring harness doesn't have any thing to the rear window .


I've been looking online for a quick fix but haven't found any thing of much use . Dave's offroad has a wiring kit but they are out of stock. So that doesn't do me any good .

I saw a thread on here where orange crusher was having issues but ended up being that silly bolt for the top .

I'm trying to just have it wired straight to the battery . And I'd like to just use the key on the tailgate to have it go up and down . The wiring comes out the tail gate and that's about all I have to work with . The 4runner wiring was gutted .

Any thing pointing in the right direction would be awesome .
I like pictures !!
 
#2 ·
If you bypass all the factory wiring and use a switch, you can't use the key.

Do the things listed here:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/RearWindow.shtml

it may be an easy fix; you checked the plunger deal... next common are wiper arm park sensor, relay, relay or engine fuse. Not in that order, but y'know... to get you going anyways.

Of course check to see if the motor itself hasn't suddenly taken a deuce on you too.
 
#3 ·
So I've looked through the link you sent . And it would be very helpful if I had all the relays and switches .

Pretty much imagine putting a 4runner tail gate in the back of a pickup . And try to get it to go up and down ..... I'm alright at wiring when it comes to finding what's wrong but when it comes to wiring in something I'm lost .

Unless I have directions .

I have pickup wiring in a 4runner body .

Every thing but the seats and carpet was gutted out .
 
#4 ·
Ah, I see... I happen to have a complete harness from an 85 4Runner here; or you could try and find a harness there in Nevada. Aside from wiring a complete new switch and all that, you'd have to swap over the harness. The back half anyway; the bit that runs from the driver's footwell to the rear along the driver's side.

Or at least that's what I can suggest; but wiring a new switch shouldn't be tricky. Use a relay, power to 5-post relay:
30 is battery power
86 is ground
87 is to the accessory (rear window in this case)
85 is to switch

I have no idea why relay posts are numbered like that, but they are. The 87A is a mystery to me and I've never used it.

switch is easy:
ground
accessory (wired as ignition hot or constant battery power)
power goes to 85 in the relay

The ground is for the light in the switch if it has one; it's not required for the accessory to work.

You can do it; just don't over-think it. :cool:
 
#7 ·
87a (nc) is normally closed, and works with terminal 87 (no or normally open) when doing things like a push button trunk add on etc.

85 and 86 are coils they take the juices (12v or ground)

30 is your common, used as an output for remote starts alot, adding a starter, igntion etc.
 
#5 ·
When I was looking at it I just couldn't figure out where to add power and ground .

I tried to add it right to the big plug that comes out of the tailgate and comes up under the driver side tail light . But that didn't really work like I had planned .

I'll give it a try this weekend ...... If it doesn't work I'll just cut a piece of 2x4 and do some Afro engineering . I need to do some wheeling before I have reconstructive surgery on my feet AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!!
When they get done with me I'll have robot feet .
 
#6 ·
Take it one wire at a time; it's what helps me. Run power to your switch, ground from the switch, then wire from the switch to the motor itself.

For up and down you'll need a momentary switch; otherwise the window would try to roll up until you turned it off. Then it's try to roll down until you turned it off as well.

I hope this helps; you got this shit... it's just wires. You're smarter than wires! :)
 
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