TTORA Forum banner

project "idle hands"

9K views 57 replies 8 participants last post by  brinner 
#1 ·
so it's time to unvail the next project. This project is actually version 3.0 of an on-going issue.

What is it? a new fuel cell/gas tank. Having plenty of time to think everything out about my truck not running, re-evaluating all the symptoms etc. I began thinking that the motor and sensors have all checked out, but the truck was acting as it not getting fuel. Thus realizing that it was creating a vapor lock situation in the fuel system.

So with everything in the bed already configured in a way not condusive with moving the current fuel cell up into the bed, I have built (in progress of building) a new gas tank.

The aftermarket tank I currently have can not be retro-fitted into the bed nor can I relocate it under the truck in order to make the changes needed to eliminate the current issues.

Those issues being #1-the tank being located so far back on the truck or away from the fuel rail #2- the aftermarket rail mounted fuel pump is not lower than the bottom of the fuel cell nor will I be able to properly mount it in such a way.

The gas tank needs to be closer to the engine compartment, mounted high enough on the chassis that will allow gravity to feed the fuel pump yet out of the way of exisiting fixtures and systems already in place.

This is solution I have devised;
I have already test fitted this mock tank in location and it fits nicely and is very inconspicous behind the tire carrier. In this location many people have made fuel cells work with other trucks so the position should work nicely in feeding the fuel system.

The plan is to actually place a line boss directly in the center of the floor and have the fuel line ran from under the tank, thus providing plenty of gravity feed to the fuel pump and then onto the fuel rail. Currently the fuel pump is not below the fuel tank and if you have every tried to syphon a fish tank you know you have to keep the recieving bucket below the aquireum level for proper water flow...this is not what I currently have on the truck.

I have already begun the tank construction, using 16 gauge metal. Once I have the welding complete and visually inspected, I will fill with water to find any pin holes or other potiential flaws. Afterwards I will seal with gas tank sealant and test a second time.

here are some additional mock up & progress photos.




the flat piece of metal at the angled side was a temporary brace used to keep
things square until the body was tack welded in place, since been removed





Estimated volume of the tank is right at 17 gallons which I'll be loosing 4 gallons from the plastic tank I have but won't loose much from the factory tank. I'll also gain back all departure angle lost with the other tank as well as plenty of room for the 4 link I still plan to install for my rear suspension if I ever regain the finances to finish.

I'll have updated photos as progress is made.
 
See less See more
9
#4 ·
here is a link link to the stuff I am talking about:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900056/

here is the quick description from the Summit site:


Summit® gas tank liner is designed to seal the inside of your gas tank to eliminate fuel leaks. The chemical will never crack or peel off and is resistant to gasoline, methanol, alcohol, diesel fuel, and other fuel additives. Summit® gas tank liner seals old rust in, prevents new rust from forming, and fills in the multitude of pinholes that you can't see. Summit® gas tank liner also dries quickly, levels out consistently, goes on in one coat, and is bright red to help you easily identify spots that were missed.
 
#3 ·
the tank sealant takes care of rust. It is basically a coating that covers each and every cubic millimeter of the interior surface to both seal up any pin hole and interior surface area.

It is available via Jegs, Summit racing, and locally at Napa. commonly used in restoration projects. It is also commonly used in chopped and/or bodded motorcycle building where they like to bob stock gas tanks and weld them back together.
 
#8 ·
I like the steel one a lot more then the carboard one, probably saving yourself a few leaks with it. :D


Any chance we can get a pic of it in the truck, I'm curious too see that design in it's final place. Looks good man!
I think you are right about the cardboard one, especially since the cardboard one has some "natural" slots cut into it.;)

I'll get some photos of the final placement once it is installed. Right now it is still on my garage floor waiting to be sanded down and coated.

I also still need to go pick up the fuel line fittings and weld on mounting tabs.

To give you an idea on where it will be housed, I removed the 25 gallon air tank I had under the spare tire holder. This tank fits up against the cab "wall" of the bed under the spare tire. So it will be out of the way, easy to fill, and protected by the spare tire. I'll relocate the air tank along the rear quarter panal (inside the bed) where my ammo box used to be.

I still think my truck as...well a truck, so I don't want to get rid of the bed. I'll have to put a new floor in it since it currently has an access door for the plastic fuel cell under the bed. I am thinking about building some type of metal storage box. but that is down the road when I can afford the expense especially paying the many bills that are adding up :mad:

the main purpose of relocating the gas tank was to create a constant gravity feed of gas to the fuel pump. I am really thinking that even with the stock fuel pump in the current fuel tank was creating a vapor lock thus causing my truck to cut out as it has been doing. (It's the latest of theories, if it doesnt fix the truck, then I will remove the motor and rebuild once I ever build up enough funds) so this is somewhat of a hail Mary throw so to speak
 
#7 ·
I am not sure if that particular one is compatible, but I know the POR-15 says it is compatible as well as diesel and alcohol
 
#10 ·
no internal gussests. the floor is only 8 inches wide and with the top being a triangle shape, it is very rigid. I don't foresee any structual defects but if there are any, they will definitely show up during the "pressure" test using the water.

I do plan to weld two mounting tabs on the bottom and two on the back wall which should also strengthen the container itself as well. I am still not certain I am going to put straps around the tank as it should be done.


Oh, wanting to be as accurate as I could with the information I am sharing. I went to the POR-15 website, to varify the use with Nitro and I could not find any mention about nitromethane fuels, so to properly answer your question. I can't say for sure if it is safe to use. best thing would be to contact POR-15 or any other manufacture you plan to use a product from.
 
#11 ·
what if you roll the truck down a 50 ft embankment and land on a rock then puncture the tank next to a random campfire that some ******* placed a bunch of delay-fused fragmentation grenades in?.........then your screwed if you didnt put internal gussets in.
 
#12 ·
LOL! sounds like I will have more to worry about than internal gussests then! But I will make sure and cut off the remote fuel switch so that the fuel won't run down the fuel lines. ;)

but to protect against the above mentioned sceniro, how about I just check with you to find out where you have been before I go out wheel'n? should save me the worries of stumbling on that "*******"/hillybilly that left the camp fire simmering.:lmao:
 
#15 ·
you definitely never know what is going to happen while you are on the "short bus".lol

besides the only area exposed on the gas tank is the 12" sitting next to the spare tire, which is also re-enforced by the filler cap assembly. all the fuel lines are going to run down the side of the tank between it and the wall of the bed (behind where the factory fuel door is) or the supply line which is exiting through the floor down to the frame rail which is also the factory location.
 
#16 ·
no, I never did install a pressure gauge. I still want to sooner or later. In fact I looked up gauges to do so after I looked up the info for Brian on the Summit site.

when I was replacing the TPS and installing the last fuel pump we did disconnect the fuel line off the fuel rain and had a steady stream but you are right, a pressure gauge would be the ultimate for diagnosis this especially if it is a vapor lock.

time for me to quit being lazy also, only other excuse I have would be weather, but it is warming up enough to get back out to the truck for that as well...guess I am running out of excuses other than $$$$$
 
#17 ·
thought about making an aluminum tank?
 
#18 ·
aluminum would have been my first choice of material, but cost a lot higher and my experience working with it is zero.
 
#21 ·
So is the fuel pickup in the center then?

Without internal baffles I could see you having issues if fuel level gets down and you have the truck at any sort of angle...just a thought.

Looks good!
 
#22 ·
That has been one,if not my biggest concern. It is also the center of my reasoning to build the tank.

I believe that with my current tank,originally designed to use the stock set up with the internal fuel pump and all. I think over time the pump became weaker combined with the extra distance and indirect routing allowed vapor lock.

Going with an external rail type pump was stronger,but I couldn't get the pump or bulk of the supply line below the fuel cell in order to keep a constant flow to the pump. So the only options would be returning everything to stock including getting a stock tank to put back into the stock location or putting a tank in the bed so that gravity will continually feed the pump.

But to make the pick up the most proficent yet easiest to construct, I did decide to put the "outlet" or feed in the center of the tank on the floor. I'll drill a hole directly under the outlet in the bed for that line. I'll keep a spare can of gas with me in case the fuel level gets low. But even angles up to approximately 35* should keep fuel flowing as long as there is greater than 5 gallons in the tank.

One advantage to the slender design will keep the centered outlet covered even on slopes. But as you noted it will always be one of my concerns. Especially since last night pressure testing the tank it took over 8 gallons to reach 3/8 fuel. Instead of having a 17 gallon capacity it appears it will be a minimum of 20 gallons.

I'm getting close to installing & when I do I'll take photos of certain elements. Bad thing is the sealant takes 96 hours to cure so we have over a week before anymore progress will be recorded
 
#23 ·
Damnit Todd, I have been second guessing everything all day since you brought up fuel level/angles.

and I thought I had everything thought out! :mad:

At 45* I see needing half a tank of fuel to maintain gas needed to cover the pick up. But at 45* that means I would be over on the lid anyway.

With the current fuel cell I have a scavenger tube that has a weight on the end to keep the pick up below the fluid level. But since the new version is slender, I don't see a similar set up working as it would collaspe the tube before sinking to the opposite end of the tank.

trying to figure out how to add the internal baffle without having to slice open the tank. Bad thing about is I don't see a solution.

I think the best solution is to make sure I keep a 5 gallon can of gas with me. :(
 
#24 ·
Idea here

On the bottom side, cut slits in it with side cuts, push those in at different angles. Take another flat plate, and weld that to the bottom. Voila, baffles and you have it all sealed back up. Then proceed to put the tank sealer inside. You would need to bend the flaps very far in, just enough to function as a baffle.
Kind of like this, if you can see what I am getting at:


[ [ [ ] ] ]
 
#25 ·
That's a good idea. Do you think staggering them or keeping them in line would be best?

The front "lower" bend is 7.5" tall. You think I should just cut the height for the baffles? A series of 5 baffles per side 2" apart sound about right? Or just come off the floor with the line of baffles?

Cutting up the floor you would creating "pools" that would hold the gas correct?

Thanks!
 
#26 ·
How long is the tank? I would say run 4 or 5 "flaps" facing one direction and 4 or 5 the other direction. Make the part that sticks up say 2 or 2.5" wide, and angle at a 45 degree angle towards the inside. What kind of pickup tube does the pump have? Have you thought about a dual pickup tub setup? One tube at one corner, and another at the opposite corner?
 
#27 ·
I did think about a duel pick up but that would mean air being drawn in and that would put me back to exactly where I am at now.

The single pick up will be gravity fed with a bung welded to the bottom of the floor feeding an external pump below the tank on the chassis.

The tank is 4 feet long by 8" wide. I was thinking 4 total "flaps" facing inward but maybe 4" tall. Is that splitting hairs or is there an advantage to more baffles being shorter?
 
#28 ·
I've got an idea for a duel pickup that won't introduce air into the system, are you good at bending small tube?
 
#29 ·
whatcha got in mind? I have the floor marked up to cut the baffles & planned to start cutting tomorrow, but if you have a way to have duel pick ups in the ends without introducing air ...I be interested. I have a small hand bender used for bending Brake line tubing, would that work?

I think having certain pick up from both ends would be much better than cutting, rewelding and then still have potiential starvation.

on a side note, I picked up the "hardware" or fittings for all the lines today. It sure was easy spending $30 in no time.
 
#30 ·
Kinda hard to explain without a picture, let me try to draw one up.
 
#31 ·
That would be great! I plan on taking a break from working in the garage tonight. I guess you could say after almost 10 years of marriage I'm learning how to pick up on some of her hints.lol

I've tried to figure out what you might be talking about & the only thing I can guess out is some type of loop, kind of like a french drain type of thing. But that would still introduce air.

So I'm anxious to hear your ideas
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top