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Expo Bed Caps

56K views 56 replies 47 participants last post by  mail_man 
#1 ·
To minimize weight is always a consideration with expo vehicles, so I was wondering what bed caps you guys have chosen for your trucks with that in mind. What options have you opted for when buying your cap? Have there been problems with your model, what features do you like best, etc. Pictures of your capped trucks would be great.

--
Will
 
#3 ·
Windows that open on the side for easy access is a great tip...
Any issues with water infiltrating the cap?
I've been looking at Leer, A.R.E. and Snugtop and was wondering which brand is more satisfactory for those who actually use these caps expedition-wise...
Any tips on what cap options are the most useful when spending time in the wilderness would be much appreciated...
 
#4 ·
Love my Leer on my 98. Its been on and off tones of times so the weather striping is a little worse for ware so not 100% watertight anymore but still holding up great, Over 9 years the pistons are still strong, Had to replace the locks (they both froze up after about 5 years) and the center breaklight is so fogged up its hardly visable but still works.
I too wish I had the side flip open windows. Mine just slide for air-vent w/ a screen
 
#5 ·
I've had a Leer (previous truck) and a Snugtop (older model - current shell). One with the rubber boot and one with a solid front window. If I had to do over I would get either a removable front window, sliding or combo so you can clean your windows and access items from cab to shell. The boot can leak and rubs the paint off around the cab over time.

I have sliding side windows and my Snugtop leaks in the bottom corners towards the rear. I don't recall having this problem with my Leer. I would have preferred the flip up side windows. I am not sure how well they seal but I imagine there is no track for the water to pool so it should be better in wet weather.

I have the double locks on the rear, handle on both sides. If I had to do over I would go for single lock / handle. Just a preference. No other issues.

Sorry at work, no pics. Just check the manufacturers sites for details on what you want. Should have pics.
 
#6 ·
I lucked out and found an awesome deal on a Vista shell that firts my T100. I think it was originally for a Tundra, same size bed. It has the flip-up windows on both sides, which are awesome, well worth the extra money in my opinion. Mine's also a tall version which I do agree looks a bit goofy, but makes it way more comfortable to sleep in because you can sit up easily. If I were only hauling gear and not sleeping in the back I'd probably get a regular cab height shell.
 
#7 ·
I think flip up sides or side windows would be key. I run a Soft Topper and am always unbuttoning the sides to get shit in or out without unloading or climbing in the back. If I were to get a hard cap I'd definitely get some type of side access.
 
#29 ·
how are you liking the soft topper because that's what I am highly considering for my 95, its a fair price, light, and versatile only thing i would be worried about is that i want to camp out of the back of the truck (i.e. sleep in the bed with the topper up and bug netting in place.) I was wondering how well the soft topper dose in the rain, having mud tosses off the tires getting to the end of the trail.
 
#8 ·
I've got and ARE on my '05 and so far I'm happy with it for the most part. I really, really wish I had gotten the Windoors and the drop down front glass though. I've got sliding windows they're not as easy to clean. Being able to access the bed from the side would be much easier too.

One thing to note on the later Tacos is the front of the bed dips slightly so you'll need extra thick foam for it to seal well (there's enough gaps around the plastic bed that dust gets in anyways unless you do a good bit of work sealing it up). Mine has been on the truck since '06 and I need to take it off and put new weatherstripping under it. I've also developed a very slight leak where the wire for the third brake light goes through the fiberglass- a drop of silicon should fix it if I ever remember. I only notice it if it rains really hard. I added a Yakima rack with the tracks myself and so far it's done great. I've had two kayaks, a canoe and a couple of bikes up there with no problems thus far.
 
#9 ·
agreement with the above

I have had a snug top with a custom carpet kit that I have used for camping since 2006. Probably have slept in it for over 300 nights (really), in all sorts of weather.

I wish I had the flip up side windows. I don't have a flip down window against the cab either, and my windows are filthy. It is a royal pain to clean them, you pretty much are required to remove the shell if you don't have the flip down cab window.

My third brake light leaks too. has since it was new. I took it back to the dealer twice, to get them to fix it, and no luck. I tried once too, but didn't get it right either... now I just put something cheap and absorbent where the drips fall, or a bowl if it will be parked for a while.

Snug top's "slam latch" is an overpriced pos. Using a key to operate the latches is just asking for mechanical failure. In my case the mechanical failure occurred when I was inside, parked at a ski resort. Get the oldskool type that has a handle that pops out when unlocked that you can use to activate the latches.

I bought the truck in Santa Fe, where window tinting is nice to have. Most of the winters I have owned it, I lived in Seattle where window tinting is not necessary, and the nights are long(er). The point being, the tinted rear truck window, combined with the two tinted camper windows makes it so that little if anything can be seen out the back at night. And that is worth keeping in mind.

A few years back in this forum someone posted photos of all the places you should put weather stripping to keep the dust out. It is a thread that is worth finding, because plenty of dust still gets inside if you don't weather strip.
 
#10 ·
I've had an ARE Z-Series cap for about 4 years and here is what I can tell you:
1) the lock needs to be lubricated with graphite every year or so
2) the overhead lamp is not very bright and the plastic cover is easy to damage when loading gear
3) the overhead lamp is easily left on by negligence resulting in a dead battery
4) if you are going to drill though the roof to mount a rack, there is a honeycomb section in the top that (depending on where you drill) will require the injection of epoxy to fill the honeycomb void to create solid mounting points.


None of these observations are intended to create a negative impression of the cap. I am very satisfied with my ARE Z-Series cap and have not had any problems other than stated above. These are just the practical considrations that I have experienced. I've had no problems with leaks or dust getting in where it sits over the bed. Everything else about this cap is rock solid.


I put a wrap arround shelf inside the cap which I've found quite handy.


Also if you put a cap on your truck it will take in dust from the tailgate and several other locations do a little searching and you'll find some info on this.
 
#11 ·
I have the ARE with windoors/sliders on both sides, dropdown front window also a slider, liner. I agree with Switch and replaced the light with a Baja Designs utility LED. As for drilling threough the roof ARE recommends to drill outside the honetcomb area. My cap has the Thule tracks factory mounted and it mounts to a BajaRack with their mounting hardware. And for dust intrusion you have to seal the tailgate.

 
#12 ·
I found that even after sealing around the shell where it meets the bed, weatherstripping around the tailgate, you will still get dust coming in through the slots under the bed rails at least on the older model Tacos. No experience with current generation. Just glob as much silicone in there as you can to minimize it. Messy but eliminated entry of most of the dust for me.

My interior light got bumped one too many times and broke. I just bought a two pack battery operated LED. Put velcro on them and stuck front and back of shell walls.

I attached a rack to my shell as well. Just make sure you seal the holes well before putting bolts in. No problem with leaks.
 
#13 ·
leer topper

I bought my Leer 100RC series which is a reinforced construction built shell that they make. They claim it will support 600lbs. if properly loaded. I purchased this with the intent of putting a tent up there but never got around to it. I can tell you that it weighs significantly more than other toppers this size which is good and bad. Personally I prefer the extra strength "just in case".

I would also highly recommend the windors on any model you get. Just like the other guys have said access to the front of the bed from the sides is great. Here are some pics for reference.





You can barely see the extra ribs in the top of the shell in these pics, but they are SOLID.

 
#19 ·
it seems to me most have really been pleased with the are. i really like some of their designs, and even thought one of their steel work caps would be nice if it weren't for the weight. i have an innovation, and it is junk. the side windows are sliders, and when i slide them closed with any amount of force, they pull the front of the window, the non active portion, out of the seal causing visible gaps where it leaks like a civ. i pulled them apart and siliconed the seals which sandwich the glass, but it just happened again, very frustrating. it also leaks around the rear window, which is curved glass, and if i position the canopy back any further to alleviate it, it makes a poor seal in the front on the bed rail. i also hate the fact it is made to fit the rear cab slider size of an 01-04, which is narrower than my 99, so i can't squeeze through from the cab to the back without a heck of a lot of sucking in the gut. the third brake light is dim, hazy and has some burned out led's, and try as i might (granted i am no electrical expert) i can't get the overhead light to work consistently. basically, it seem to be a very poorly thought out, and i would ditch it altogether if it weren't for the security of keeping tools out of sight. i wonder what the weight difference is for a steel cap verses a fiberglass of similar dimensions? the nice part about steel is i think i could weld up a rack pretty easily to bolt to it and it would be pretty secure.
 
#22 ·
Interesting thread. Got some input, maybe...the de-evolution of caps on my truck.

To minimize weight is always a consideration with expo vehicles, so I was wondering what bed caps you guys have chosen for your trucks with that in mind. What options have you opted for when buying your cap? Have there been problems with your model, what features do you like best, etc. Pictures of your capped trucks would be great.
First think about why you want a cap. Is it security for your stuff? Is it shelter?

I have been through two caps. The Snugtop has already been mentioned, mine had the boot between cab and cap.

It made a great shelter, weather was never an issue. I wish I had the bug screens on the windows, and the sliding windows rather than screenless pop-outs. Screened sliders means more air circulation, and no "friends" coming to visit in the night.

It was hard to see out the back. I never liked that. On the other hand, when you close it, you're pretty much sealed from the weather. Great, until the locking mechanism busts and you're inside it.

At the end of the day, it was a 200+ lb (maybe 300, I dunno) rigid tent, which got in the way of rearward vision, and made it difficult to access all the heavy, but necessary, stuff that's inevitably loaded at the front of the bed (where it should be). It also makes the roof line longer, which may or may not be an issue where you drive. Finally, it's a couple hundred pounds of dead weight, with a center of gravity about five feet off the ground. Cap on vs cap off made a huge difference, driving around.

I sold it, and got a canvas topper instead. Tell you what, if you want to look all expeditioned out, nothing beats a canvas topper...nothing. The only thing better would be having a snorkel and limb wires along with a canvas topper, and the spare tire on the roof...that really tells everybody at the mall that you're out to take on the world.

Functionally...overall, I liked it better than the hard shell. I still have it, along with the bed of the truck. Even used it last summer for a couple trips.

When the weather is good, and assuming all your stuff is stashed properly, the sides come up, the back comes up, and you have shade along with visibility. When the weather is complete crap, it seals just fine...I've driven dusty backroads and Midwest blizzards, with no ill effects other than the odd drip and a little dust.

It's easy to flip up part of the side, dig around in a tote for your boots/stove/book/tools, and close everything up.

Visibility, obviously, was nonexistent. Also, when it got really, properly cold, the plastic windows became brittle, and the rear window shattered...no more weatherproof cap. Wish I'd known that, before starting to bend the window up to grab something.

It was certainly less convenient to seal from the inside, but after doing it once, not a big deal.

It came with a couple bars for a roof rack. I used it to carry a kayak for a while. Kayaks are light...but still noticed the weight up top. Total cap weight was about 80#, plus rack accessories.

Overall, not bad, for a big piece of cotton and some webbing. Actually, that's an understatement, it's awesome. Most of the time, I just left it on the truck with the sides & back rolled up, because it was really quick to drop everything if the weather turned.

Eventually, I realized that all my gear was sitting in little boxes inside a big box (the bed), none of it was above the bed rail, and really the caps were just keeping all my weatherproof boxes from getting dusty or wet. Tent-like functionality was negated as soon as the group became three guys in a truck. Even if we felt like getting all cozy in the bed (srsly, nfw), all our stuff was taking up the bed space. All I had was a big cotton blind, for myself when looking rearward, and for the general public so they couldn't see our stuff. Even if it was just me + girl, there was still the matter of stuff where we wanted to sleep, that had to be unloaded...or a deck built, and subsequent total lack of headroom accepted.

I could've used a cap at the level of the bedrail, been able to see better, had a lower center of gravity, and gear pack & stow really wouldn't have changed.

Shortly after, the bed came off, and I started doing unnatural things to the back of the truck.

It works for me, because I use a ground tent. When I get my hands on an RTT, it'll just go on top of the cage.

YMMV. Personally, I'd suggest thinking about whether you need a cap at all. Some do. In some situations, I'd far prefer a cap...like long trips to the middle of nowhere, where visibility and clearance aren't an issue, but weather is.

Most situations, I bet it's just gonna be dead weight.

Not that I'm saying caps are useless...rather, I'm recommending you evaluate whether a cap satisfies a specific need for shelter or security (or both), or if something smaller and lighter would do the trick. There's the tent & bed cover, then the folding canvas topper, then the CanBack style canvas, next fiberglass hardshells, and then that awesome flip top setup. Figure out what need you have, and do what most efficiently meets that need...don't just throw money & gear at it.

-Sean
 
#30 ·
Interesting thread. Got some input, maybe...the de-evolution of caps on my truck.



First think about why you want a cap. Is it security for your stuff? Is it shelter?

I have been through two caps. The Snugtop has already been mentioned, mine had the boot between cab and cap.

It made a great shelter, weather was never an issue. I wish I had the bug screens on the windows, and the sliding windows rather than screenless pop-outs. Screened sliders means more air circulation, and no "friends" coming to visit in the night.

It was hard to see out the back. I never liked that. On the other hand, when you close it, you're pretty much sealed from the weather. Great, until the locking mechanism busts and you're inside it.

At the end of the day, it was a 200+ lb (maybe 300, I dunno) rigid tent, which got in the way of rearward vision, and made it difficult to access all the heavy, but necessary, stuff that's inevitably loaded at the front of the bed (where it should be). It also makes the roof line longer, which may or may not be an issue where you drive. Finally, it's a couple hundred pounds of dead weight, with a center of gravity about five feet off the ground. Cap on vs cap off made a huge difference, driving around.

I sold it, and got a canvas topper instead. Tell you what, if you want to look all expeditioned out, nothing beats a canvas topper...nothing. The only thing better would be having a snorkel and limb wires along with a canvas topper, and the spare tire on the roof...that really tells everybody at the mall that you're out to take on the world.

Functionally...overall, I liked it better than the hard shell. I still have it, along with the bed of the truck. Even used it last summer for a couple trips.

When the weather is good, and assuming all your stuff is stashed properly, the sides come up, the back comes up, and you have shade along with visibility. When the weather is complete crap, it seals just fine...I've driven dusty backroads and Midwest blizzards, with no ill effects other than the odd drip and a little dust.

It's easy to flip up part of the side, dig around in a tote for your boots/stove/book/tools, and close everything up.

Visibility, obviously, was nonexistent. Also, when it got really, properly cold, the plastic windows became brittle, and the rear window shattered...no more weatherproof cap. Wish I'd known that, before starting to bend the window up to grab something.

It was certainly less convenient to seal from the inside, but after doing it once, not a big deal.

It came with a couple bars for a roof rack. I used it to carry a kayak for a while. Kayaks are light...but still noticed the weight up top. Total cap weight was about 80#, plus rack accessories.

Overall, not bad, for a big piece of cotton and some webbing. Actually, that's an understatement, it's awesome. Most of the time, I just left it on the truck with the sides & back rolled up, because it was really quick to drop everything if the weather turned.

Eventually, I realized that all my gear was sitting in little boxes inside a big box (the bed), none of it was above the bed rail, and really the caps were just keeping all my weatherproof boxes from getting dusty or wet. Tent-like functionality was negated as soon as the group became three guys in a truck. Even if we felt like getting all cozy in the bed (srsly, nfw), all our stuff was taking up the bed space. All I had was a big cotton blind, for myself when looking rearward, and for the general public so they couldn't see our stuff. Even if it was just me + girl, there was still the matter of stuff where we wanted to sleep, that had to be unloaded...or a deck built, and subsequent total lack of headroom accepted.

I could've used a cap at the level of the bedrail, been able to see better, had a lower center of gravity, and gear pack & stow really wouldn't have changed.

Shortly after, the bed came off, and I started doing unnatural things to the back of the truck.

It works for me, because I use a ground tent. When I get my hands on an RTT, it'll just go on top of the cage.

YMMV. Personally, I'd suggest thinking about whether you need a cap at all. Some do. In some situations, I'd far prefer a cap...like long trips to the middle of nowhere, where visibility and clearance aren't an issue, but weather is.

Most situations, I bet it's just gonna be dead weight.

Not that I'm saying caps are useless...rather, I'm recommending you evaluate whether a cap satisfies a specific need for shelter or security (or both), or if something smaller and lighter would do the trick. There's the tent & bed cover, then the folding canvas topper, then the CanBack style canvas, next fiberglass hardshells, and then that awesome flip top setup. Figure out what need you have, and do what most efficiently meets that need...don't just throw money & gear at it.

-Sean
Sean, that's an excellent read. Funny and insightful :)

I'm big on weight reduction so I've always liked the canvas. I like the military look too. Unlike the military, you can't post a guard when you go in for coffee. A crook could open it up with a pocket knife in seconds and there goes your gear. Fiberglass caps are heavy, all of them. I have one now (Leer) because it came on the truck but I'll be trading out for aluminum when I can. Aluminum is very light as long as you stay away from big windows. Windows weigh a ton. They also limit the use of the inside somewhat.I've found all aluminum tops to be good middle ground and very functional and tough. I always line mine with that mylar bubble insulation and carpet. Works well. You can also get custom aluminum tops built just the way you want them.
Teryx
 
#23 ·
I might be in the minority but I've always been a fan of the old fashioned aluminum style caps. I have an 11 year old ARE aluminum with sliding front and side windows/darker glass. I originally tried to get it with the windoors but at the time wasn't available. I have this cap on mostly for winter ski and traveling, rest of the year it's stored against the wall in pole barn. The cap is pretty light comes on and off easy. I taped the bottom of the cap rails just takes 4 clamps to secure.
Also, I cut some foam board insulation the size of the side windows and wedge it in there for camping and so no one can see any expensive gear. For the amount of time I have this on I've been pleased with it, no big leaks and original lock too. Taco RIP.
 

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#24 ·
Love my ARE CX series. I got the flip down front slider window...awesome for cleaning access. Also the drivers side windoor is good, just wish I would have ordered one for the passenger side. Like another posted above, ARE told me to drill OUTSIDE the honeycomb area. I fabbed up a rack to do so, and have since had 200-300lbs up there with no problems on long hunting trips to the backcountry. Almost caught air a few times (surprised me) and I freaked out since I had so much weight up top. No stress marks on shell whatsoever. I've heard some complain about ARE quality, but this is my 3rd ARE product and all have been very well built.



 
#32 ·
I just got a used camper off craigslist. It's the exact same model as yours. The ARE CX series. The downside to the camper was that the back glass was busted. I was wondering if you don't mind taking some pictures from the inside looking up at the hinges and a few shot with the glass opened up and looking at how the struts attach to the glass. Thanks in advance.
 
#27 ·
Might be out of place but I spotted a cap on C-List in East L.A. that I am interested in buying for expedition type use but I had a question that I am aware has been covered but mostly in reverse.... anyway.

Here is the listing;

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/pts/2208200274.html

I asked the seller what bed length & cab style it is for, he said it is approx 6' long and he says it is for a Regular cab.. but he didn't seem too sure of that part. I have been looking for a cap with the fold up side windows for awhile, and the right color too! Seller said it is a SnugTop though.

So from looking at the two cab styles I would think that a cap designed for an extended cab would not fit a regular cab due to the cap hitting the squared off regular cab. However I would think that a cap designed for a regular cab would fit on an extended cab truck, but with a gap since the it would be reverse? Anyone have any input?
 
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