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3.4l 2nd gen (black) supercharger nose cone rebuild

17K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  wradar 
#1 ·
I searched around and found a bunch of different posts with info and thought that I would try and do a complete writeup here with my pictures.
I bought the rebuild kit from http://www.rollingperformance.com/index.htm
I called them on the phone to get exactly what I needed. I ordered the ceramic bearing kit and coupler. #CBBSNOUTKIT03 . . . $195.00
The whole thing took me 3.5 hours from start to finish.
 
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#2 ·
removal

First I disconnected the battery. Then I started taking everything attatched to the supercharger off. I put most of the hardware back on the s/c so I would not loose it.


With the s/c off the truck I put it up on a box


Then I removed the pulley with a puller (cheap proto kit, but it worked)

It came off pretty easy.
next I removed all the nose housing bolts. they were installed with blue locktite. Make sure to put a pan under the front to catch all the oil. Mine had the wrong oil in it, looks and smells like motor oil.


keeping track of all the parts helps too.

Carefull prying off the nose assembly so you do not break off the tabs. I whacked the nose near the pully with a rubber mallet and it came loose.

You can stop here if you just want to do the nose, however I wanted to check for damage and clean up the rotors and housing. here is the nose assembly off.

This takes a little bit of careful prying

It looked a little rough inside so I cleaned it up a bit with some 1200 grit wet/dry paper (very light sanding).

I also inspected the rear bearings. I had bought some but I did not have the correct tool to remove them and they looked good. I did clean them in the bore and re-greased them with some heavy grade high temp grease.

Here is the rotor assembly

I cleaned up the edges with sand paper to see how bad they really were. It looked worse than it was. the paint had chipped away and made it look like the aluminum was nicked to shit. not the case.

All cleaned up


Nose cone disassembly
I borrowed my neighbors 12 ton h/f press.

Assembly out

cleaned and reassembled
 
#3 ·
Installation

I began by cleaning up all the parts.
pic of new parts

So I put the nose housing in the oven for 250 degrees for 20 min, and the outer nose bearing in the freezer (not married so no drama there, lol).
Bearing drops right in.

Good time to take a break while the housing cools. The bearing needs to hold it self in there so it doesn't move for the next step.
I did not get a pic of it being pressed in but what I did was to put a socket over the shaft and press the assembly together. Make sure the socket rides on the center of the inner race and not the bearings themselves.

inside pic

pulley pressed back on

I applied sealant on the flange
assembly back on s/c

bolts back in and torqued. ready for oil

All most done

S/c back on. Amazing how quite it is now. It sounded like a diesel with bad timing before.

Finished, is nice!

next thing "JBA headers" I already have them, just waiting until I am not stressed to put them in.
 
#6 ·
I like how you deleted the resonators on the air intake pipe, not many people do that. Free power. :2cents:
 
#7 ·
I thought one of the hoses from the resonator went to the charcoal canister as well. Is that just capped off at the canister?

No code? I don't know a lot about emissions. I hate CELs though.
 
#10 ·
has anyone found a write up on installing the rear bearings for a gen 2 supercharger?
 
#11 ·
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