What to look for in an FJ40

[triplefive]

I am currently in the market for a fj40 and am not sure what kind of things to look out for mechanically and what kind of questions to ask the seller. I am looking at a 1975 right now, and I figured there would be a few people here with enough fj experience to steer me in the right direction.
Thanks in advance for any help

[wanabecruisen]

Originally Posted by triplefive

I am currently in the market for a fj40 and am not sure what kind of things to look out for mechanically and what kind of questions to ask the seller. I am looking at a 1975 right now, and I figured there would be a few people here with enough fj experience to steer me in the right direction.
Thanks in advance for any help

What are you going to do with it? Hard core trail rig? Weekend grocery getter? Tell us what you ahve planned and we'll chime in. Generally speaking, my firat advice is to find the best body you can and don't worry too much about what year it is. Mechaniscl issues are usually easier to solve than rust issues IMO.

[triplefive]

It is going to be in between a hardcore rig and a grocery getter. More of an all around truck that wont be ridiculous to try to drive on the road, but definitely not a show truck. It is a final project for me and my dad to build before i go to college. Thanks for the reply.

[Bear]

I have one little '71 40 on life support right now waiting for my son and I to start the resto-mod. This one is practically rust free, with many of the parts from the P.O so this won't be a large "where can I find this part" fest.

I had another 73 (ish) 40 I was going to build for my step daughter. We ended up taking the salvageable parts from it for spares, or salable parts to fund the other Fj. The body was horrible regarding the rust. So I have to second what was said about watching for rust. IF you see excessive amounts ...run!

Although their are outlets for new sheet metal, try to find one that won't need much body work as mentioned above.

Most years of FJ's interchange with a few exceptions. One thing you will want to look for (if you plan to keep the Toyota motor) is the 2F motor. they have more torque than the 1f's.

Watch out for rust under the gas tank as well as rust on the windshield frame.
Finding one with a good fiberglass top is a bonus as well, They are expensive to replace, including the rain gutter. (they are stupid crazy expensive!) and a P.T.I.A to try and rebuild.

[triplefive]

Originally Posted by Bear

One thing you will want to look for (if you plan to keep the Toyota motor) is the 2F motor. they have more torque than the 1f's.

Watch out for rust under the gas tank as well as rust on the windshield frame.

Great advice.

The one we are looking at right now has a chevy 350. I know this is a pretty common engine to swap, but is there any disadvantage in having a 350.

As far as rust goes is there any other places to look out for it.

Thanks for all the help, please keep it coming!!

[Bear]

the sb350 is a common implant.

the only way to look for rust is to take your time, and climb under the truck most of the time rust will show on the bottom side, floor boards, hidden corners, typical places that would make sense to you. the back corners and rocker panals seem to be thin metal which rust will eat threw quickly. I have seen many types of hack jobs either trying to hide the rust or repair it so watch for those types of signs. Generally if someone has put on diamond plate corners or rockers, chances are that they are hiding rust. So try to see behind those plates.

Also make sure the front axle has disc brakes compared to the earlier years coming with drums all the way around.

[wanabecruisen]

Unless it's been upgraded the 75 he is looking at will have drum front brakes. Not a big deal as the fronts are pretty easy to swap out to disc brakes using 79-85 mini truck parts or later fj60 parts. Consider doing a read disc brake swap at the same time using GM parts. A great resource for this kind of information is IH8MUD.com - anyone looking to gain a bunch of general knowledge about fj series rigs should start there.
I like the original "f" anf "2f" motors a lot and can't recommend pulling a decent one in favor of a small block but - that said - a 350 is a good choice for the rig and will be pleanty of power and possibly better gas mileage as well. Some have cooling issues, some have hacked wiring issues, some have no issues at all. You need to check out the conversion very closely and get an idea of the quality of work. What trans is it running? (probably the original 4 speed - good smooth trans but not up to a great deal of power added IMO), Alt and wiring? Motor mount quality? Cooling system - especially the distance from the fan to the radiator and shroud situation.
An fj40 can make a great all around rig with just a little work. Power steering is probably the best upgrade after disc brakes and, again, IH8MUD.com is a great source if information on the various types of conversions done here. They are never going to ride as well or give you the comfort of a newer rig - 33-34 year old rigs just wont but you'll smile constantly at all the waves, nods and even the "nice Jeep" comments you'll get on a daily basis when you drive one.

[Rgman0053@aol.com]

Speaking of pulling disk brakes off mini trucks can you use brakes off an 86 pu for my 71 fj40?

[69FJ-40]

Originally Posted by wanabecruisen

A great resource for this kind of information is IH8MUD.com - anyone looking to gain a bunch of general knowledge about fj series rigs should start there.

X2

[blair1cn]

LOL! You do get alot of "nice Jeep" reactions out of them!

The 350 is a good swap and requires a little less time and energy to work on. Easier to find parts and do upgrades. Keep a cool look out for rust hazards. Everyone seems to have some great input. Be very sure that if the body is covered in anyway that there isn't rust underneath. Also check the stock t-case linkage...they get quite sloppy after 30-35yrs of use and can turn out to be a headache fussing with all the time. Get the ORION (and correct the
4L slippage).

FJ's are a priceless wheeling rig but require a little more TLC to do it the right way.

Nice choice! I enjoy mine!

[TheAussie1]

350 parts are a dime a dozen

[YotaJosh]

Originally Posted by Rgman0053@aol.com

Speaking of pulling disk brakes off mini trucks can you use brakes off an 86 pu for my 71 fj40?

Sorry, no.

You need more than just the brakes when doing the swap using mini truck parts. That's why you need 79-85 parts, because those years were solid axle, just like the LC.

[BMWTACO]

It all depends on what you are looking to spend, and how much you plan on putting into it. It's pretty easy to swap drivetrain parts between years but body panels and paint work get expensive really quick. The bodies on the pre-75 trucks seem to hold up a little better, but the 75-up 2F engine and 4 speed (4 speeds started in 74) transmission trucks are more desireable. 75-up also has the barn doors out back and the later lift-up style side door handles. 76 was the first year for disc brakes, and 78 was the first year for the fine spline pinions and updated birfield joints. 79 was the first year of the square bezel front and they have a larger fuel tank. They also have taller gears to make them more highway friendly. Pre-74 trucks have better t-case gearing with a lower crawl ratio. My crawl ratio sucks with stock 3.70 gears and 33's. Hopefully someday an orion will fix that. I've had my 79FJ40 for about 8 years now. I basically bought someone else's project that they had about 10 grand of parts into for 5, then towed it home and went to work. I've easily got another 5-7 into it and i'm currently rebuilding the stock 2F engine and I still want to do about another 3 grand worth of mods to it. The only thing on the entire frame-off rebuild I didn't do was bend the exhaust, and of course I won't be doing my own machine work. These are easy rigs to work on, parts availability is still really good, and it makes me feel like i'm 18 again everytime I drive it. That said they really don't make great daily drivers if you have very far to go. They ride horrible, mileage is dismal, and like any short wheelbase high center of gravity vehicle you have to be careful on the highway. I occasionally drive mine to work (46 miles one way) on nice summer days, but I generally put less than 3000 miles a year on it. I do show it occasionally and it does quite well, but I was really just looking to build it as a keeper to have forever. I do wheel it, but quite carefully.

[JONNYFJ]

Originally Posted by triplefive

It is going to be in between a hardcore rig and a grocery getter. More of an all around truck that wont be ridiculous to try to drive on the road, but definitely not a show truck. It is a final project for me and my dad to build before i go to college. Thanks for the reply.

Hard core rig and Grocery getter should never be used in the same sentence LOL
As for a Vic in college... They 350 swap is a cheap alternative, but unless you stay stock your gas millage will go out the door. I have a 383 in my 69. If I play nice I average about 7 MPG if I get on it I have to convert gallons to mile. GM Goodwrench makes a good 5.7L create engine you can pick up for less than three thousand. Remember this when doing the swap once you through in the SBC the value of your 40 drops due to it no longer being original. I nice dual purpose set up would be a stock SBC, SM465 stock T-Case 4 inch Leafs and some 33 12.50s. 40 series came stock with 4.11 gears so you would not need to regear your axles. As for disc breaks (IT IS A MUST!!!!!!!!!) I love my disc in the front. BTB products sells a nice conversion kit. Good Luck JonnY

[triplefive]

Originally Posted by JONNYFJ

Hard core rig and Grocery getter should never be used in the same sentence LOL

haha yeah i was going for more of a reliable truck that i could drive to some of the local parks.
Thanks for all the help guys. Keep the tips coming

[01 Double Cab]

If my memory serves me correctly the ideal years for both trail and street use would be 1976 and '77 because they have front disc brakes and still have the 4.11 gear ratios along with a 4 on the floor. From 1978-1983 they became more civilized with things like power steering and then A/C, but had 3.70 gears making them more highway friendly but hard on that old 2F turning bigger tires. The ideal tire size in IMHO is a 33x9.50 for any Land Cruiser 1990 and below.

[Trollhole]

http://home.mchsi.com/~gregoverton/Buy.html

[bradleyem]

Originally Posted by Trollhole

http://home.mchsi.com/~gregoverton/Buy.html

Thats some good info there Marshall, but I think for the "Bad Cruiser" pic they should have used that one with the tree growing out of it.

[Trollhole]

Originally Posted by bradleyem

Thats some good info there Marshall, but I think for the "Bad Cruiser" pic they should have used that one with the tree growing out of it.

Yes.

[triplefive]

Originally Posted by Trollhole

http://home.mchsi.com/~gregoverton/Buy.html

NICE!!! that is the kind of info i am looking.