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Old 03-13-2012, 11:50 PM   #451
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Also depends on the state. Most states just plug into the OBDII interface and check what the computer thinks its doing. So, as long as your check engine light is off you're good. So the charger is very legal. Engine swaps can get tricky. When I looked into it I thought it was only requiring a newer engine with as good or better smog ratings. The new GM engines with variable valve timing are really clean and very efficient. But you're right about a huge headache. If I were to do it I would spend extra for a turn key kit. Probably comparable in pricing to the charger with 1.5x the power and runs on 87 octane.

Better to ignore me. I get annoyed at my buddy who keeps tempting me.
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Old 03-14-2012, 11:35 AM   #452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OOwballer View Post
I honestly dont know that one. you'd have to read up more on it to find out for sure. I for some reason was thinking it would be ok, and that is was more against crossing over car and truck motors...but that is pure speculation on this part so dont take my word for it
In cali....can only swap engines that were available in that chassis generation. So early tacos should be able to swap 2.4, 2.7, 3.4.

Im trying to get more power also but engine swaps seem like a bit much fitment and wiring wise for me.
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Old 03-14-2012, 12:03 PM   #453
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once you start getting too much power you start breaking driveline components unless you upgrade that too. i think id be content with just a supercharger with all its bells and whistles.
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Old 03-14-2012, 05:00 PM   #454
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Quote:
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In cali....can only swap engines that were available in that chassis generation. So early tacos should be able to swap 2.4, 2.7, 3.4.
Sorry but thats not true... I did some more reading and it appears you and I are both wrong about things.
First, the class of vehicle does not matter so long as the vehicle and engine are from vehicles less than 1-ton. Meaning if you have a 1-ton you can swap in only an engine from another 1-ton+ chassis. Or the opposite applies. So yes a truck engine can go into a car or vice versa, assuming all of the other things apply.
I was wrong about the manufacturer part, apparently that is not important so long as it is same year or newer with ALL smog equipment.
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Old 03-14-2012, 05:39 PM   #455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OOwballer View Post
Sorry but thats not true... I did some more reading and it appears you and I are both wrong about things.
First, the class of vehicle does not matter so long as the vehicle and engine are from vehicles less than 1-ton. Meaning if you have a 1-ton you can swap in only an engine from another 1-ton+ chassis. Or the opposite applies. So yes a truck engine can go into a car or vice versa, assuming all of the other things apply.
I was wrong about the manufacturer part, apparently that is not important so long as it is same year or newer with ALL smog equipment.
Good info. can we get some source references?
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Old 03-15-2012, 12:00 AM   #456
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i am curious now because that means you can run any engine in any car without smog issues? And what vehicle weighs only 1 ton? So can I drop an LS1 in my tacoma and get it smogged no problem?
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Old 03-18-2012, 06:50 PM   #457
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Here's swap guideline's from the horses mouth:

http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/80_BARRe...uidelines.html

...that doesnt solve the issue of swapping between classes of vehicles. I think the info I gave before was correct, but I cant seem to find the official vehicle code section on it... Too be honest my brain hurts from reading legal mumbo jumbo and im giving up, maybe I was tired and mixed it up with some other forum info. Pretty darn sure its right though. If you are really interested in swapping an engine a call to your local bar ref would prob be the easiest and best idea and could head off your problems early

and also a 1ton vehicle was in reference to the vehicle's carry capacity like a 1ton truck vs a 1/2 ton truck, not the weight of the vehicle itself
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Old 03-22-2012, 11:16 AM   #458
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A bit more info scroll down to "engine changes"...still doesnt quite define classes of vehicle but helps some. are 1/2 ton trucks considered light duty? if so that opens up a whole lot of legal smog swaps for midsize trucks, assuming you want to do the work.

http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/replace.htm
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Old 04-18-2012, 11:08 PM   #459
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Finally fixed my brakes. I replaced the master cylinder and brake booster and that wasn't the problem. it ended up being something unrelated to the brakes causing the problem. any guesses of what it was? I should have it ready to take out again by this weekend
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Old 04-18-2012, 11:17 PM   #460
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You have peaked my interest. Brake problem not related to the brakes, out has to be something stupid (from my experience) haha.
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:21 AM   #461
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Vacuum line problem? Foot cramps? Floormat getting in the way? =]
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:49 AM   #462
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Finally some updates!!
First, let's start with the brakes. So during king of the hammers I hucked my truck and landed with the brakes on (DO NOT DO THIS). This caused my truck to bottom out even harder. The only apparent damage was my radiator was moved in a bit and my coilover to resi fitting broke. I was still able to drive it home but as I'm driving it starts to feel like my brakes are getting worse and worse. By the time I get home I barely have any brakes at all. I take a look at the brakes and this is what I find


My UCA had put a dent in the brake booster. I've heard this isn't a problem but I didn't see any other reason why my brakes would be bad. I try replacing the master cylinder first because replacing my booster involves me cutting out my bypass mount but that didn't fix the problem. I sacked up and cut out the bypass mount and it barely squeezed out



I get everything back together and test it out and FML they still don't work. I'm stumped. There are no leaks anywhere and all the calipers are getting fluid when I bleed. I adjust my proportioning valve to make it full open so my rear has max brakes and I can lock those up so I eliminate the rear being a problem. My next guess is that by landing with the brakes on I messed up the front calipers somehow. I decided to switch calipers with a buddy to check that. As I jack up the truck I notice that the passenger wheel seems kind of loose. I rock it back and forth and notice it is loose at the wheel bearing. BINGO. If the wheel bearing is loose than the wheel will wobble as it drives so when I try and brake the disc pushes the caliper pads in and out giving the feeling of no brakes. I pull the hub cover off and the nut is partially backed out up until the cotter pin caught it. If there was no cotter pin it most likely would have back all the way out and been really bad. I retightened the wheel bearing and took it for a drive and my brakes go back to normal! It only took 3 days of work and 300+ in parts. hopefully some one will read this and not make the same mistake. Once I saw the dent in the booster I got tunnel vision and had my mind set on that being the problem

Now for the fun stuff. After the brake fiasco I had to remake the bypass mount. This time I wanted to keep the brake reservoir on the MC instead of relocating it which didnt make me feel very comfortable. Im not sure If i showed it before but this is how I moved it

The new mount had more material but didn't have the top plate but I'm sure it will be fine



To keep from bottoming out so much I raised the ride height a ton in the front and revalved my coilovers from what I thought was 70/50 (it had 60/70 engraved on the cap so who knows what it was) to 105/50 which is a huge jump. Hopefully its not too much. I also added a little spacer to my front bump to raise my bump height


I had to fix my motor mount. not sure why but the welds completely failed causing the mount to split

I was able to C-clamp it to close the gap a little then I welded back up

forgot to take after pics

Since I don't have a bed I want to make a roof rack for gear. The plan is to have really low profile rails and then make a dettachable rack. I only got the rails done this weekend




The rails land on the roll cage at the A&C pillar junctions

Lastly, I bought 4 new red ring 55 watt HIDs (2 spot, 2 flood) so I can put them in a light rack that goes just above the windshield. Heres what I drew up and was aiming for

I wasn't so lucky and the die I wanted had the wrong radius (3.5" instead of 4.5") so I had to put a 2" gap between the 90 degree bends but it still came out good. I still need to add the verticals



making sure it wasn't warped

It matches the windshield perfect

I orginally planned to have it attached to the roof rack but it's too far away so I'm not sure how to attach it anymore

The truck is basically ready to go again. I just need to do a prep and enclose the fuse box.
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:15 AM   #463
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These showed up at my door yesterday. I wonder what I can do with them...
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:09 PM   #464
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why do those hubs look half aluminum half steel?
hmmm.
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:05 AM   #465
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They're all steel. The outter diameter was turned down so I can fit a tacoma/tundra rotor over it because I plan on reusing my brakes
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Old 04-26-2012, 12:05 AM   #466
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Quote:
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They're all steel. The outter diameter was turned down so I can fit a tacoma/tundra rotor over it because I plan on reusing my brakes
Lol, didn't think about that. I have a set waiting for me to build spindles. they are def beefy, strong, but heavy.
I remember seeing some machined aluminum ones, but can't seem to track them down.
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Old 04-30-2012, 09:55 AM   #467
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I got my light rack mounted. It makes the truck look competely different.

This is how I mounted rack to the cage





I added the vertical bars to the rack and blended the weld between the sections before I mounted it. I need to redo the the piece that goes from the rack to the cage attachement and redo the center adjusting link. I had to bend it to clear the antenna mount. When I redo it I will mount it a little lower



Here are a couple night shots. The lights worked great. it was def enough. I might mount a couple on my bumper if I make a stinger



I went out to ocotillo wells saturday night. The truck did awesome. The front valving is perfect. I just need to adjust the bypasses a little. The rear is still funky. I think my shackles are hitting the frame. I have some good video of the suspension I'll throw up later
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Old 07-08-2012, 11:56 PM   #468
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Wow great thread, good pics and videos and BADASS truck!! took me like an hour an a half to read and watch all videos
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Old 08-09-2012, 09:47 PM   #469
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Probably the best DC tacoma on TTORA.
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Old 08-15-2012, 09:44 AM   #470
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Thanks guys. I have a few small updates but hopefully these pics will hold you off from my trip to mex this last weekend

In-Cab Shot


Checking the Suspension


Came damn close to rolling it. I was drifting around a corner and hit a rut. It popped me up on two wheels but i was able to countersteer and save it


And a few of my favorite randoms






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Old 08-15-2012, 10:06 AM   #471
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awesome pics!!! that in cab shot of your almost roll is crazy
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:09 PM   #472
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Niiiccceee!!!
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Old 08-18-2012, 12:16 AM   #473
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Nice save
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Old 08-18-2012, 02:19 AM   #474
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nice pictures you have there. awesome driving to save that roll I have a question, I've looked through a few pages and gave up, I fine remember what gears you are running. I'm getting 35's tomorrow and i'm afraid of the lack of power until I can regear.
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Old 08-19-2012, 05:17 PM   #475
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im 529. 488 will put you a little underpowered of stock. i wouldnt go any less than 529 when you regear
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Old 08-19-2012, 05:18 PM   #476
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ill put the video of the almost roll when i get it
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Old 08-19-2012, 11:49 PM   #477
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im 529. 488 will put you a little underpowered of stock. i wouldnt go any less than 529 when you regear
How does that do at highway speeds? Mine is a daily, for now, 4.10's and 35's suuuuuuck!!!!
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Old 08-20-2012, 08:32 AM   #478
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I drive mine 30 minutes to work a few times a week and its fine on the freeway. i usually drive around 70-75 mph
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Old 08-21-2012, 10:14 AM   #479
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nice pictures you have there. awesome driving to save that roll I have a question, I've looked through a few pages and gave up, I fine remember what gears you are running. I'm getting 35's tomorrow and i'm afraid of the lack of power until I can regear.
I'm running 35's with 4.88 and its pretty good power wise, but when I finally swap in the 9" I will be going with somthing close to 5.29's.
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Old 08-21-2012, 01:36 PM   #480
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I'm running 35's with 4.88 and its pretty good power wise, but when I finally swap in the 9" I will be going with somthing close to 5.29's.
I think i'm going to go 4.88's. A bit under powered but more gear for the highway.
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