Budbuilt Tacoma tcase clocker kit install

[lsloth]

Well after the carnage of the last comp I decided I needed a flat bottom. I called BudBuilt and he shipped me out this beauty:



The install is pretty straight forward.



You will need to drill out the threading on holes 1-3. You will also need to remove the hole pin below hole 4 and above hole 8.

It came with all the hardware including a new seal for the transmission. Install this with the metal side facing the front of the transmission.



Here is where the new seal goes.



It did create a problem in the cab that I had to cut out a lot.







Here is where the tcase shifter ends up.



Here is what it looks like now, with 37” tires, running chevy 63” in the rear and 44044’s with two leafs removed it sits at 28” from the bottom of the tcase to the floor. I can not find where I wrote down what the distance was before. The steel across the bottom of the picture is where the bottom of the frame rails are located.



I am saving now for a set of PRP seats to install.

Here is the truck as it sits now. While doing this I also shortened the wheel base by about a foot while replacing the rear most part of the frame that was bent. The passenger side frame was about 3” higher than the driver side.




For more random pics of the work you can go here:
www.r65.org/tacoma/framefix/

The install went very smoothly, I still need to cut the hole for the tcase shifters, bend the shifter and finish welding up the tcase/crossmember.

[josho]

looks good....you need rear steer!

holley

[Davidtaco]

you don't have dual cases?
also what kind of "comp" do you do? I see no cage????

-David

[zosimov21]

Sweet how long did the install take?

[lsloth]

Originally Posted by Davidtaco

you don't have dual cases?
also what kind of "comp" do you do? I see no cage????

-David

I am saving for dual cases right now, that is why the hole in the floor is so big. I have been competing in some local comps in the stock mod class which if it has cab on it, it does not need a cage. I know its not the best thing, but after all these mods I will be bumped to pro mod I think. I just got a bender so as soon as I find a source for some DOM I will be putting an exo on it.

[lsloth]

Originally Posted by zosimov21

Sweet how long did the install take?

I would say a day on it, I took two weekends but I have been working on alot of other parts at the same.

[YotaTaco]

I was thinking about getting the BB clocker kit but I didn't know it required cutting a large hole in the floor pan. Would a stock Taco still need a hole in the floor pan to clear this kit? Thanks for the info.

[AK98Taco]

Yes, unless you want to install a body lift.

Go to Bud's site and READ about the setup. It does say that modifications must be made to the floor of the cab.

[lsloth]

I have been told that some have been able to do it with a hammer and I have also heard some made much smaller box. I made a larger to fit a marlin doubler in there later.

[BudBuilt]

Originally Posted by YotaTaco

I was thinking about getting the BB clocker kit but I didn't know it required cutting a large hole in the floor pan. Would a stock Taco still need a hole in the floor pan to clear this kit? Thanks for the info.

I can help here!
Single case: You will need to cut the floor or run at least a 1" body lift. I trimmed mine about 5" front to rear and 9" left and right. You MUST either cut or use a body lift NOT pound for this one, because it is right under the front seat mount!
Dual Cases: Just pound it or do the 1" body lift. It is under the driver's seat, and plenty of very thin sheet metal under there that moves easily.
Does that help?

[Kyota]

Uhh no. (responding to my edit, haha)

Also, does this conflict with oil draining or circulation at all. I dont know much about t-cases. But kinda like if you rotate a engine too much it can prevent it from sucking up any oil. Or I imagine it -could- anyhow...

[Davidtaco]

Originally Posted by BudBuilt

I can help here!
Single case: You will need to cut the floor or run at least a 1" body lift. I trimmed mine about 5" front to rear and 9" left and right. You MUST either cut or use a body lift NOT pound for this one, because it is right under the front seat mount!
Dual Cases: Just pound it or do the 1" body lift. It is under the driver's seat, and plenty of very thin sheet metal under there that moves easily.
Does that help?

I hear you have clocking rigs for dual cases now.... and we don't need to send out case in to get machined???

-David

[BudBuilt]

Sorry man. Machining still required. Got a slick setup for doing it now tho, so it goes fast.
Lemme know when you are ready!
Bud

[gambrinus]

Originally Posted by BudBuilt

Sorry man. Machining still required. Got a slick setup for doing it now tho, so it goes fast.
Lemme know when you are ready!
Bud

Do we have to sent the adapter to you for machining or can it be done local?

shane

[Davidtaco]

Originally Posted by BudBuilt

Sorry man. Machining still required. Got a slick setup for doing it now tho, so it goes fast.
Lemme know when you are ready!
Bud

I'll do it once you have the crossmember ready too, so i can get the skid, crossmember and dual case clocked all at once....

-David

[hytenor]

Originally Posted by BudBuilt

I can help here!
Single case: You will need to cut the floor or run at least a 1" body lift. I trimmed mine about 5" front to rear and 9" left and right. You MUST either cut or use a body lift NOT pound for this one, because it is right under the front seat mount!
Dual Cases: Just pound it or do the 1" body lift. It is under the driver's seat, and plenty of very thin sheet metal under there that moves easily.
Does that help?

with the 1" bl mine still required plenty of pounding

If you lose a seat mount how the heck do you bolt in your seats??

Jim's getting a stet of shifters to replace the OE ones, wee!
now all I need is your xmember...hint, hint...before I figure out a way to make my temp xmember do the same thing, LOL

have you come up with any other ideas on the e-brake relocate?

[hytenor]

Originally Posted by Kyota

Uhh no. (responding to my edit, haha)

Also, does this conflict with oil draining or circulation at all. I dont know much about t-cases. But kinda like if you rotate a engine too much it can prevent it from sucking up any oil. Or I imagine it -could- anyhow...

you have to drill/tap a new fill plug hole. we used a simple tapered plug on mine.

[calrockx]

i'm hoping with my 1.5" body lift i won't have to cut or pound my floor at all. glad to see someone get this in, i'll be ordering mine in the next couple months.

[hytenor]

Originally Posted by calrockx

i'm hoping with my 1.5" body lift i won't have to cut or pound my floor at all. glad to see someone get this in, i'll be ordering mine in the next couple months.

even with 1.5" you'll still need to do some clearancing if you want the full 30* clocking. If you are just installing the clocking adapter and not a crawler you'll still have to do some work.

[Front Range]

Originally Posted by Davidtaco

crossmember and dual case clocked all at once....

-David

Like this?

Yop is a new center plate only. Lower is our clocking xmember. Just finishing up the details, and we'll have these ready to go.

[Davidtaco]

Nice!!!!!!!!

-David

Originally Posted by Front Range

Like this?

Yop is a new center plate only. Lower is our clocking xmember. Just finishing up the details, and we'll have these ready to go.

[Timbuddha]

Originally Posted by Front Range

Like this?

Yop is a new center plate only. Lower is our clocking xmember. Just finishing up the details, and we'll have these ready to go.

I think I need to trade in my old one for one of these!!