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Steering Rack replacement write-up

48K views 18 replies 12 participants last post by  jww601 
#1 · (Edited)
Most folks already know how to do this - but I figured since there isn't a good write-up on the intranet - I'll do a make-shift one with some pics for you visual type people (like myself) :D. The one on Tundra solutions was okay - but it was really long winded and made the job sound 10 X harder than it really is - and there were no pics! :D
First, if you haven't looked too far into racks - check out this thread:http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157903

Time frame wise, it took me about 4 hours - that's with a lunch break - and a trip to the parts store for ATF fluid (Dex II or Dex III - FYI). Maybe tack on 30-45 minutes for adding ATF fluid for the power steering. I did that intermittently later. Over all, this was a very easy job. And it was 10 X easier than I thought it would be.

So anyway - this is a 98 Tacoma 4x4 xtracab V6 manual.
I picked up the steering rack from Napa on one of their 40-60% off 2nd Saturday sales for $260.00 ($250 core!). It's a re-mfg rack, that comes with the rack, inner TRE's, boots and clamps (one set of clamps are shit).

Here is what needs to be removed. The steering rack. :D


Here is the PDF NCTTORA FSM breakdown of parts:
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2000/Repair Manual/Steering/Power Steering Gear/comp.pdf


Tool list? see below - this is what I used. Mainly 1/2" drive ratchet, 19mm socket, 22mm socket, 17mm wrench, 3/8" ratchet, 12mm socket, 3/8" swivel extension, breaker bar that fits over the 1/2" ratchet, pipe-wrench, big crescent wrench, pliers, metal paint-pen, I used an impact - but it's not needed - the 17mm line wrench may or may not be needed depending on how nasty your union fittings are (the Tundra solutions write up says it is mandatory - it was not on my 98 Taco, but was on my 96 4runner)


*To start off - jack up the front end, put on jack stands - and remove wheels.

*Straighten steering wheel with wheels pointed straight - and tie off the steering wheel.



*Mark each TRE with a paint pen - where the Inner TRE lock nut meets the outer TRE thread shaft. You will be putting this lock nut back in the same exact position when installing. You can also count threads.



*Remove the outer boot clamp.


*Take the inner boot clamp off - make sure to keep this. If you bought a re-mfg rack, the boot clamp they send with the rack needs to be cut-off and thrown away.


*Cut off and discard the boot clamp on your re-mfg rack if it is not reusable. Here was the one that came with mine. You need to access the inner TRE for measurements later.


*Pull the boot down the outer TRE to expose the rack - measure like so - you will want to keep these exact measurements when installing the new rack. Measure the distance between the rack-bodies edge, and where the inner TRE meets the rack itself. (2.25" - drivers side)


2" on the passengers side:


Now on the Tundra solutions write-up, the guy talked about measuring the spline area on the steering shaft where it comes down from the cab. He had disassembled that u-joint, because apparently his shaft was stuck in the rack. Mine came out just fine - so I didn't do that. (extra step not needed)
So these were the only measurements I took - not sure if that was right or not - but everything went back together just fine on mine. Maybe someone can chime in?
:2cents:

*Next remove the outter TRE from the rack. Use the pipe wrench and large crescent wrench. (this was a pic actually of installing - but you get the point)


*After breaking the lock-nut loose, unscrew the inner TRE from the outter TRE shaft. (can be done by hand)


*Here is what you should have now:

(again - this pic is of the install - but no difference)

Okay - so now onto actually taking the rack out.

*Here is the 22mm main nut and washer - you can just loosen it for now.


*This is the 19mm bolt and washer on top of the rack - kind of a pain, but not too bad. Remove the bolt.


*Top is a 19mm nut, the bottom is a 19mm bolt. Remove them.


*Then remove the large rack bushing, and metal housing that holds the bushing in place.


The rack should still sit pretty firm in it's position. If not, tighten the 22mm nut.

Now onto removing the powersteering lines from the rack - and the steering shaft ("Intermediate #2 shaft"). Grab a drain pain to catch fluid.

*With the rack moved a smudge out (toward the rear of the truck) the 17mm union-nuts to the feed and return lines are accessible with a normal 17mm wrench or line wrench. If a normal 17mm wrench won't turn the fittings, use a line wrench so you don't strip the nut.
Loosen them up. - make sure to set a pan underneath to catch the fluid - should drain out and down off the bottom of the rack underneath the 22mm nut.



This ones a little harder to get to - but no biggie.



*Once broken loose - they can be loosened by hand (go in from the wheel-well, over the frame).

*Now onto the "intermediate shaft #2" :D
I used a 3/8" ratchet, 12mm socket, and a swivel extension to get to it.
Loosen it up - and remove the bolt.


*Now - take off that 22mm main nut that you loosened earlier.
Your rack is now free to man-handle out! :D

*I have a diff-drop, so the main 22mm bolt won't come out the front - it hits the diff. Which isn't a big deal. The rack will just slip-off the end of the bolt. It doesn't have to be removed. Pull your bolt out, or as far forward as it will go. The rack will rest on the center support that the PITA 19mm bolt came out of earlier.


Wiggle the rack around until it feels almost freed up. I did all this alone - so I couldn't take any pictures at this point. But I just laid on my back (bench-pressing the rack), and wiggled a bunch until it freed up - then it popped out of that center support - and was free - except where it was still stuck to the steering shaft where you removed the 12mm bolt (intermediate shaft #2). Just pull down a few times and the shaft should disconnect from the rack.

Now that the rack is out, clean up the power steering lines so there is no crud when connecting the new rack.

My new (well - re-mfg) rack came with 2 o-rings, and instructions that said they MUST be used in order to keep the lifetime warranty. Well - here is a pic of them and the new rack. They do NOT work, and are NOT needed.


Here is the OEM stock rack, that didn't have any o-rings - and doesn't need any.


Once both the new, and old rack were side-by side transfer the dust cover from the old rack's steering shaft - to the new rack. This - and possibly the inner-boot clamps are the only parts you would need to re-use from the old rack.

The install is reverse of removal. Some of the torque specs are:
Intermediate shaft #2 - (12mm bot): 26ft lbs
Power Steering Lines: Feed tube: 33 ft lbs, Return tube: 36 ft lbs
19mm nut - top of rack bushing: 123 ft lbs
19mm bolt - bottom of rack bushing: 123 ft lbs
19mm bolt - center of rack, on top (hard to get to) 123 ft lbs
22mm nut - Main nut on rack: 141 ft lbs

Leave your truck up on stands still.
Once everything is back together and torqued to spec - fill up your Power Steering reservoir with ATF fluid - Dex II or Dex III. I bought 2 quarts - but only used 1.
After filling up the reservoir - turn the wheel slowly back and fourth, at full lock - and leave about 5-10 seconds in between directions. Check the fluid level every couple turns and add fluid if low. After about 20 times back and fourth - (takes a while) - I started the truck for about 3 seconds - just to suck some fluid down. Then turned it off - and kept doing the same thing - back and fourth. You are bleeding out the air in the system. You can check the reservoir and see if there are air in the bubbles - if there is air - keep going. :D
I then started the truck after maybe 15 more times - and once the truck was started, and turned back and fourth doing the same as above.
After I couldn't see any bubbles in the reservoir - I slapped the wheels back on and took it for a drive. It was perfect. My steering wheel was off maybe 1/10 of a turn - but can and will easily be fixed during the alignment. A lot of people experience horrible sounds from the PS pump after draining/adding fluid - but I had zero weird noises.


When doing this, you can also replace the bushings with the Poly Performance ones. There is a write-up on 4x4wire for that.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/steering_bushing/
You can also do the outter TRE's - there is a good write-up on Bajataco's website for that - (also involves a-arms and BJ's)
http://www.bajataco.com/tech/control_arms_01.html
 
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#3 ·
Ditto - GREAT Write up!!!
If you have a garage write up of your rig, you should place it there too.
THanks for sharing this with us.
 
#5 ·
I'd read this before but it's a good writeup. I like the idea of using a paint pen to mark the lock nut and threads. I changed tie rods once and thought I'd be close by just counting threads but nope. had a whole lot of tire scuffing on the way to the alignment shop. Later when I changed my steering rack I wrapped a piece of electrical tape around the exposed thread which got me closer but it was still a little off.
 
#6 ·
You'll always be a little off... No matter how you try to mark the threads. I'm on my 3rd rack and 2nd NAPA rack, I did everything I could to keep my alignment as close as possible since I had just got an alignment about 6 weeks prior. No luck. But I'm close enough I guess. My front tires are shot and I've got a set of KM2's that are waiting to go on this winter so I'll get another alignment once those go on. But if you care about your tires, you'll need to get an alignment right away. As for the NAPA racks... my first one lasted me a little over a year before the drivers side had a worn inner tie rod and up and down play in it that came along with fluid leaking from the rack into the boot. I order a new one, brought in my old one with the receipt and they honored their warranty with no questions asked. Which made it all worth it. The one they swapped me out with is much nicer than the original one I purchased. The first one they gave me had old bushings, boots and lines and was all spray painted black even over the rubber boots. The new one was fresh all the way from the bushings to the boots and lines. I did however swap the new bushings with my old poly bushings just because the factory rubber ones are crap in my opinion. We'll see how long this one lasts!
 
#8 ·
Well that sucked...LOL. Did the new rack, new outer TRE's and new lower ball joints. She's super-tight now! :D
In my write-up I mentioned a 17mm line-wrench wasn't needed.....I almost stripped my 4runner's back PS line 17mm nut (going into the rack) before realizing I should try the line wrench. I'd recommend the line wrench if the nut is on there good.
 
#12 ·
Very nice write up with helpful pics. Thanks for sharing.

This might come handy soon. I've been thinking about replacing my factory steering rack. After 14 years it might need to be replaced:D
 
#15 ·
Air hammer or gravity - but since recieving your PM I'm guessing you figured it out.
I can't tell ya the answer on the PM - I can't tell from the pics, and don't remember. Id do some measuring of both racks is you're concerned.
 
#14 ·
For those with sway bars still, that also needs to be removed prior to the rack coming out. I have done this twice now and I think I had it all done in about an hour in a half the second time around.
 
#18 ·
Awesome, good to hear!
I miss the Taco community - all parts of it.
My 3rd Gen runner is now only driven once a month so the seals/battery/oil dont go south
 
#19 ·
Got the inner/outer tie rods and LBJs done on driver side. Removed inner tie rod bellows on the passenger side and about 1oz of PS fluid came out of the bellows. Looks like i'll be replacing rack and was wondering what opinions are regarding NAPA reman ($290) used parts off of wrecked trucks ($100-150) or aftermarket new ($250-300).
 
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