Decided to step up from 33" K/Os to 35" KM2s. Also went from 17" steels to 16" street lock steels because of valve stem issues. After chopping the body mount i tacked on a 3/16" piece of plate metal so the tires clear for now... Still need to hack off quite a bit to stuff the tire and be able to turn. Front bumper was easy its all held together with plastic snaps so id say dremel or dye grinder to hack the plastic. i also had to use a mini sledge to flatten some of the fender out of the way. a work in progress. heres just a picture from the the phone ill add a few later.
Yea 35s aren't all that much work to get to clear once you remove the inner fender,fender flares, beat back the pinch weld and cut the body mount the only thing I'm still rubbing is the frame right behind the rear most LCA mount and there isn't much I can do about that so I'm just gonna let it be.
I keep taking more and more off my cab mount. I've been trying to avoid cutting into that circular bit but it's gonna have to happen I guess.
Pre fender cutting, pinch weld smashing. Pounded the pinch weld back with a 4lb sledge and used a cutting disc to cut my fender after. I cut the cab mounts before I put on the 35s, but they needed and still need lots more.
Good lil thread goin here. Not to jack the OP but itd be nice to have even more pictures of the exact mods/cuts or other trucks runnin this same set up on 35's. Just as a little collaboration of 'modding for 35' help.
I can't find my alignment sheet but I think it was set to ~2.4 deg caster and I think I need to push it up to about 3 now. I'm getting some rubbing on my cab mount and I don't want to trim much more off this area.
I like this thread - maybe it can be used as a good reference spot for those wanting to go to 35". I will keep updating as I progress
I am also curious what rim size people are running. I am running American Racing Mojave Teflon in 16x8 with 4.5 backspace.
I am in process of putting 315/75 16 also. I put one on a spare 16" rim I have and did some frame clearance. I am still waiting on front glass fenders to finish any cutting down there. Here is a pic of my cut frame and boxed before paint....
Got anymore detail than this? We all know you need to cut a lot - this thread is more about where did you cut, what did you do, alignment specs and rim size/dimension. Care to share?
What are you guys who already have 35s set up running for caster numbers?
Do I need to push my wheel farther forward in the wheel well? Or did you have rubbing like my above picture as well? Did you just take more off and pound the wheel well in with a hammer?
Well, I pulled flares and cut a full 2" out of fenders. Cut 5" off the ARB. I cut body mount back as far as possible. Cut, rolled, and grinded the entire pinch weld. removed the bottom screws in the fire wall. Pushed the bottom 12" of firewall in with BIG hammer atleast 2". And relocated all fender supports. 15 to 20 hours later NO RUBBING. Icons at 3" with TC UCAs. No sway bar. 315/75/16 MTRs with 16x8 4.5"BS wheels
Awesome info. I am replacing my fenders with 2" rise 2" flare glass so I think this will save a lot of work/time. I already cut/boxed my frame as far back as it can go, pounded the weld. I will trim my ARB once the fenders are on. I didn't see any interference when I test fitted my rim/tire against the firewall area though. Do you know your alignment specs?
Did you have to do much on the rear besides removing the flare?
I cut both front and back fenders 2". And then i had to relocated the supports in the back. My alignment is off. Firestone cant align because of the rims. So thats a no
Looks like you might need to tub the firewall to keep or just deal with the rubbing there, more backspacing just moves the rubbing to the frame just behind the LCA. Mine is cut and beat just about the same as yours and doest rub the body mount/firewall area but does rub the frame pretty good under full lock/full stuff.
Before I had the cab mount chop done, I had mine bumped to 2.9 and I cleared the body mount with 285s. The factory settings are too low with larger tires. I would bet 3.5 would do it.
I would bump the caster up slightly above spec but try to keep the camber in spec.
I clear 35x12.5 MTRs with the All Pro LT kit. It moves the suspension an inch forward so it gives you more clearance at the firewall. I cleared 35 KM2s with just a body mount chop and flare clearancing. With the MTRs I had to clearance the flares some more, chop the mount further back, and clearance the firewall.
Thanks. I'm undecided about the wheels at this point (been that way since I posted them for sale). I want to get rid of the snorkel and possibly the roof rack (going to build my own removable one).
I'd break glass fenders on the trails here. All of my stock flares have been damaged or dented in and so if I go any wider I'll just break them all the time.
Heres a pic of a Hilux with 3" lift and 35" tyres from Turkey....he says he has cut the front mount and moved it back a little, trimmed the fender opening larger and also the front fender flares aswell to suit...
Looks bloody tuff regardless of what he has done.
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