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Wookiee strength carrier bearing mod

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126K views 102 replies 39 participants last post by  Yotaman83  
#1 ·
The center support bearing on the Tacoma's is garbage, so I searched around for the "solid carrier bearing" part number and found it, but it's since been discontinued from the mcmaster-carr catalog so I found the beefiest one I could. I looked into the ford superduty carrier bearings, but they were expensive and I couldn't find one in stock nearby. Pretty much any high rpm 1.5" ID pillow block style bearing will work, but this one just so happens to line up exactly with the factory bolt holes (which I drilled out and put 1/2" bolts in), precisely fits the factory shaft, drops the centerline a few degrees, and it's only $101.51. It's amazing how much noise the d-shaft flopping around makes, the solid bearing quieted it right up.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#2722t25/=cjr53h

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#3 ·
Tips? umm don't drop the needle bearings from the u joint cap in the sand. Took me like an hour to get them all cleaned and lined up in there. I just got done doing it, put thirty miles on it, then made this post. It will hold up, that bearing has a radial load capacity of 6900 lbs. I also removed all of the donut washer doohickeys off the shaft, and if I was smart I would have bought all new u joints since I had it out, but I have 80K miles on my truck and they still felt tight.
 
#5 ·
I have solid motor and trans mounts, so I can feel every cylinder fire through the steering wheel, but it did take away the hum from the driveshaft wallowing around, and it hooks up better. It might sound weird but it just feels more solid, don't know how to explain it but you can feel it right when the clutch bites, it's tight instead of all wobbly wombat. Here's a couple shots before I put the U-joint in.

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#6 ·
nice, I ordered it, I like to put my 2-piece back on... that TW 1-piece makes me nervous sometimes to how close it is to the carrier mount brace and gas tank...
 
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#8 ·
Most pillow block style bearings have two set screws to hold the bearing on the shaft, one at 12 o'clock and one at 3 o'clock. The problem with that in this application is that it doesn't perfectly center the driveshaft in the bearing resulting in vibrations. The aluminum ring has three equally spaced set screws and built in torque indicators so you can precisely center the bearing and shaft. Basically this style bearing is exactly what we need to use as a carrier bearing. It came with everything for around $100, you just need longer bolts.
 
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#10 ·
Wobbly wombat? :D This is interesting. I have a 2000 3.4L will this work for me? IIRC you have the new model taco. Nice find:)
 
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#11 ·
Wainiha I'm pretty sure the 04- is also 1.5" in diameter at the carrier bearing, but measure to be sure. Look at the overall length too. Also drunk posting anything about wombat's or bacon f'ng rules. I wonder if you can make wombat bacon? I bet it's delicious.

Gary that is exactly why I didn't get that style of bearing. Sure they are $25 cheaper, but they won't last long like that.
 
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#12 ·
Wombat Bacon:rofl:

What are the donut washer doohickeys you said you removed? They were not labelled in the FSM:rolleyes::D
 
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#16 ·
I haven't had any money for my truck and have not checked yet. Why don't you go measure and let us know:D I still would consider it when the bank account allows.
 
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#19 ·
Well WTF?? what changed from 07 on? What year do you run Tacosupreme? Good write up, worth saving. Doesn't the factory part cost like $300? Shit, I wish mine was bad now so I could install that bad boy :rolleyes:
Teryx
 
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A
#20 ·
Not really sure. Maybe it was a typo on their part. But I did search it out on Desert Rangers and a lot of the toyotas (All Gens) seem to be running these. I'm going to order one and see if it it fits if not I'll sell it to a buddy with a 08' that LT'd also. I won't be able to get this on the truck until the Weekend of Aug 6th but I'll keep everyone posted when it goes on.
 
#22 ·
after install I was so happy that the shudder is gone but FUCK at 60+ it's unlivable, the freakin' merrors were as if I had 2 15" woofers in the back seat.... you tell me I can't have a 2 piece smooth and with out the shudder?

A member stated that rubber parts were used, I'm a bit desperate now because I'm leaving Aug 3rd to a long road trip and I don't want to blow more $$ and I cannot drive it like that... so any advise would help...

I thought that D. shaft needs a balance, but it was perfectly smooth before and even with that shit C. bearing it would of vibrated... so I'm hoping it's just an NVH issue...
 
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#23 ·
hilux 30 is this the carrier bearing from Mcmaster Carr that tacosupreme installed or some other?
 
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#24 ·
yes it the McMaster from above that tacosupreme did... our truck mechanic installed it, read the instructions carefully and did the job cleanly...

I do understand that "some" vibes will come through, after all it is totally solid with no damping what so ever, but it's excessive to force me off the highway and take the back roads...
 
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#25 ·
Gee, that's a bummer. I have to think twice now. Maybe tacosupreme didn't notice the vibes cause he has solid motor mounts? He seemed pleased. Dunno what I'm doing now:confused:
 
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#26 ·
I'm gonna cut some rubber sections of some mud flaps layin' around and sandwich them between the carrier and cross member... I'll let you know how it goes.
 
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#27 ·
Weird. Mine doesn't do that. My vibrations are RPM based not ground speed based, it's not drivetrain it's motor but these motors are pretty smooth so it's not bad. Are the three set screws equally adjusted? Did you leave the donut things on the shaft? Are your ujoints good? Is it greased?
 
#28 ·
It does get worse on acceleration, but let off and cruise above 60mph and it's too much, the set screws are equal, spun shaft on hoist and watched, no uneven movement what so ever. One joint was replaced was not because it was bad but dropped caps and pins, so I got a US made one (FM), all greased. This stock shaft is new from toyota, got it when the old one was replaced under warranty, but shortly after installed the tom W. and the stock was in storage. I am guessing that toyota doesn't balance them good off the line for production speed reasons and cost, but I am hard pressed to believe that all the vibes are from balance...
 
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#30 ·
I don't have a picture of the actual piece, but if you look behind the bearing you can see that bronze colored part of the shaft where it was installed. I couldn't get the bearing to fit without removing it, it looks like a big washer that slides over that lip. If that's still on there then the yoke nut won't be able to seat, the bearing won't center, and you'll get vibes. Also "if" the factory shaft was balanced, it was balanced as an assembly and if it wasn't put together the same way it came apart, you get vibes. Can you post pictures of your setup, like a shot of the bearing and one of the rear diff/pinion angle?

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#31 ·
ok, the only thing removed was the old bearing, I will look at it now and take pics.... I appreciate the help
 
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#33 ·
think it was already stated...

well... U mentioned a mechanic did the work...

otherwise... if it were a noob...

I'd would wonder if they forgot to index the Dshaft and reinstall that, as it were prior to the mod ?

I'd think if the Dshaft were reinstalled improperly...
that would bring 'da vibes due to an out of balance Dshaft.
 
#34 ·
he did index the shaft, but I just noticed by torquing the housing not on its spinning axes but to check the bearing, and there is some play where the grease and ball bearing are, is that normal?
 
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