A Truck that Wont turn off!?!

[KStacoma]

Went to do my brakes tonight and started the truck to put it on the lift and it sounded really funny. I turn it off but the thing keeps running even w/the key out of the ignition all the while making an odd noise. It acts up until I unhook the battery cables, then it dies thank god. When I hook up the positive battery cable even standing there w/o anything in the ignition it will spark CRAZY and the motor will try and start. My thoughts are the starter is acting up or the solenoid is stuck or something so I pulled the starter, left the truck and am now wondering what you guys think i should do. I'm supposed to go to oklahoma this weekend to wheel and go figure this happens.
Any suggestions etc.? Also how much to starters cost, should I get a remanufactured one from a local parts store or a genuine toyota part?
Thanks a ton for your alls help,
Jamie

[The Dude]

Dude, my truck did the exact same thing, the starter would not disengage. it finally burned itselft up pretty nicely in a giant display of white smoke. it was 400 bucks to get everything fixxed right on the damn thing. it works like a charm now with the new starter tho, and it was the solenoid sticking.

[KStacoma]

Originally Posted by The Dude

Dude, my truck did the exact same thing, the starter would not disengage. it finally burned itselft up pretty nicely in a giant display of white smoke. it was 400 bucks to get everything fixxed right on the damn thing. it works like a charm now with the new starter tho, and it was the solenoid sticking.

SHIT! 400 bucks! Was that the cost of the part or the cost of the labor+part cause I am installing it myself and a 400 dollar starter would definately rape my poor college ass.

[The Dude]

yea that was at a shop, i dunno what the starter was, i am gonna guess like 150ish

i had some other stuff done that i dont remember so thats why it came out to 400.

i am also a poor college student

[KStacoma]

Originally Posted by The Dude

yea that was at a shop, i dunno what the starter was, i am gonna guess like 150ish

i had some other stuff done that i dont remember so thats why it came out to 400.

i am also a poor college student

Ahh 150 is more reasonable but still ouch. I am much more relaxed now knowing it will most likely be the starter itself not some wiring or ignition switch problem or something. Thanks alot for letting me know your situation/problem and diagnosis!

[The Dude]

yea it was just the starter at 1st. catch it early, when mine finally shit the bed it fried some of the wiring. so replace it asap

[Paul]

http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum...ad.php?t=21524

[KStacoma]

thanks for the link, so they are saying it could be the ignition switch also. With your problem when you turned the key off did the truck keep running like normal or was it just cranking? Mine will run like normal but sounds sorta funny so they were saying that might be ignition switch problems.

[nastynate]

starter.

happened to my dad's 4runner. take the battery cables off and it would die.. put them on and it would start!!

[Poopshute]

Originally Posted by PaulW

http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum...ad.php?t=21524

Yup, we were just talking about this on a different thread. SERIOUSLY, follow the link. Lots of good info for diagnosing it as well as a mini-write up on how to take your starter out the easy way.

One thing to keep in mind when you buy a new (reman) starter is... go with the cold spec starter. At my dealership the cold spec starter was cheaper than the non cold spec. I had the non cold spec in my truck stock (the one that went out and wouldn't turn off). I ended up getting the cold spec. It has a larger motor and will start your truck up much better in the cold weather. Same specs as the non cold spec but the motor is slightly longer (larger). No modifications needed if your stock one was a non-cold spec. It will fit just fine w/out any problems. We are talking about the 3.4L by the way right?

[KStacoma]

Is it okay to go w/a starter from advanced auto parts or oreilly's or something, not one from toyota. There isn't a yota dealership for 30 miles from where I am at school.

[Poopshute]

Originally Posted by KStacoma

Is it okay to go w/a starter from advanced auto parts or oreilly's or something, not one from toyota. There isn't a yota dealership for 30 miles from where I am at school.

As far as parts like the starter and alternator... I always go OME (Genuine Toyota). That's just me though... I like having the original equipment in there. You could order the part from trdparts4u.com. I believe they sell parts like that there.

[KStacoma]

Originally Posted by Poopshute

As far as parts like the starter and alternator... I always go OME (Genuine Toyota). That's just me though... I like having the original equipment in there. You could order the part from trdparts4u.com. I believe they sell parts like that there.

I need to get the starter today though unfortunately. The g.f.'s car is out w/a fuel pump and now mine is out so it is a big problem, especially with weekend wheeling and camping planned.

[KStacoma]

Well O'reillys has one in stock for 119.99 but it's the non cold spec. I think I'm gonna just get it, it has a lifetime warranty so if it goes out again oh well. I'll report back later if the problem is fixed.

[Dick Foster]

If it's the starter it's only the solenoid or contactor part. Maybe you can try opening it up and fixing it yourself. As I recall Toyota sells replayment contacts and there is a write up in the FAQ section.

[KStacoma]

Originally Posted by Dick Foster

If it's the starter it's only the solenoid or contactor part. Maybe you can try opening it up and fixing it yourself. As I recall Toyota sells replayment contacts and there is a write up in the FAQ section.

I am very familiar w/rebuilding starters but there isn't a yota dealership in town and I have to go wheeling this weekend so that's why I'm opting to buy a new one. I have an automotive electronic lab today so I might take it in and take it apart and see what the deal is. I am guessing the brushes are worn and the plunger probably needs replacing also.

[nastynate]

Originally Posted by KStacoma

I am very familiar w/rebuilding starters but there isn't a yota dealership in town and I have to go wheeling this weekend so that's why I'm opting to buy a new one. I have an automotive electronic lab today so I might take it in and take it apart and see what the deal is. I am guessing the brushes are worn and the plunger probably needs replacing also.

you could always take back the one you bought after you get the one you want

[KStacoma]

Originally Posted by nastynate

you could always take back the one you bought after you get the one you want

lol good call man, but the hassle of removing them is such a pita it almost isnt worth it.

[Poopshute]

Originally Posted by KStacoma

lol good call man, but the hassle of removing them is such a pita it almost isnt worth it.

It's not all that bad... I followed this method from a master tech to taking the starter out. It'll take you about 15 min. or so to pull it out and another 15 to put it back in... here's what he told me...

1.) Remove the passenger side front tire (use all safety precautions obviously)

2.) Remove the cosmetic "mud guard" plastic stuff. The stuff that hides the exposed engine when looking into the wheel well. It's secured with plastic snaps so be careful not to break them. Remove enough to get access to the starter.

3.) You'll see a brake line in the way while looking at the starter. There are two bolts holding a bracket that secures the brake line in place. Remove those two bolts to the brake line so it "floats" around freely. Be careful not to bend it too much as it'll kink somewhat easy.

4.) On the exposed upper control arm there is a large nut. If you remove it the bolt should slide to the side VERY easily. After that you'll have this gaping hole that the starter will come out of.

5.) I believe there are 2 long bolts that connect the starter to the bell housing. Take those out, disconnect the eyelet connector and the plug connector and you should be able to take out the starter with ease.

[KStacoma]

Originally Posted by Poopshute

It's not all that bad... I followed this method from a master tech to taking the starter out. It'll take you about 15 min. or so to pull it out and another 15 to put it back in... here's what he told me...

1.) Remove the passenger side front tire (use all safety precautions obviously)

2.) Remove the cosmetic "mud guard" plastic stuff. The stuff that hides the exposed engine when looking into the wheel well. It's secured with plastic snaps so be careful not to break them. Remove enough to get access to the starter.

3.) You'll see a brake line in the way while looking at the starter. There are two bolts holding a bracket that secures the brake line in place. Remove those two bolts to the brake line so it "floats" around freely. Be careful not to bend it too much as it'll kink somewhat easy.

4.) On the exposed upper control arm there is a large nut. If you remove it the bolt should slide to the side VERY easily. After that you'll have this gaping hole that the starter will come out of.

5.) I believe there are 2 long bolts that connect the starter to the bell housing. Take those out, disconnect the eyelet connector and the plug connector and you should be able to take out the starter with ease.

Ahh right on, thanks for the tip, I didn't take off the upper a-arm bolt cause I figured it'd be a bitch to get off and back in which made it difficult. I also found out I must have the cold spec one because the one they had at the auto parts store was MUCH smaller. Looks like I've gotta wait till tommorow now.

[Dick Foster]

That idea really sucks. It's crappy for the people trying to run a business. It's not like they are in business to provide free loaners or something. It's pretty much the same thing as stealing.

[Poopshute]

Originally Posted by KStacoma

Ahh right on, thanks for the tip, I didn't take off the upper a-arm bolt cause I figured it'd be a bitch to get off and back in which made it difficult. I also found out I must have the cold spec one because the one they had at the auto parts store was MUCH smaller. Looks like I've gotta wait till tommorow now.

That upper A-arm bolt/nut is so surprisingly easy to take off. Once you get it off, use a rubber mallet to tap the bolt out just enough to give you room. When you put the bolt back on... just make sure it's snug as it sits up against a bushing. Should be simple to remove.

Are you going to end up going with a Toyota cold-spec starter or is there an aftermarket version?

[KStacoma]

Well I got an autozone DuraLast cold spec, they randomly had one in stock down here. 130 bucks but whatever it takes to get the truck ready to wheel this weekend. I just hope that it isn't something else in the ignition causing the problem.
Jamie

[Kyota]

Dude do what Dick said. I had the exact problem that he said, the solenoid contact, well one of them. It wore out. Only my truck tried to start with the key out, like others. Didn't run though. Did it several times. If you know someone with a drill bit set, a sabre saw w/ a light metal bit, and a file or two you can make one with a piece of brass or copper. Just copy what the other was. Mine was brass, stock was copper. It's been working flawlessly for 6 months or so.

[KStacoma]

Originally Posted by Kyota

Dude do what Dick said. I had the exact problem that he said, the solenoid contact, well one of them. It wore out. Only my truck tried to start with the key out, like others. Didn't run though. Did it several times. If you know someone with a drill bit set, a sabre saw w/ a light metal bit, and a file or two you can make one with a piece of brass or copper. Just copy what the other was. Mine was brass, stock was copper. It's been working flawlessly for 6 months or so.

So yours didn't run, just tried to? That is what most people say happened w/theirs but mine would run normal just you could hear the starter being gay. That just makes me wonder if I had some other problem somewhere.

[nilson]

When your key is not turned to the "ON" position there should be no power for all the essentials that run the engine.

[KStacoma]

Originally Posted by nilson

When your key is not turned to the "ON" position there should be no power for all the essentials that run the engine.

But the starter pulls power from the b+ terminal and is constantly connected. I think that is where mine kept getting power. It ran in off position w/the key out.

[JDUBTacoMUD]

same thing happeend to my 95.5 and i just took cables off battery.removed starter then reinstalled sarter and havent had problems since wiht it stayign on and thats been 3 months.luvckily my starter didnt burn out on me.goodluck but if sarter aint worn out just ty what i did it saved me money

[nastynate]

Originally Posted by Dick Foster

It's pretty much the same thing as stealing.

i guess i'm going to hell then.