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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 142
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I saw a picture of a tacoma where some guy made an anti axle wrap bar. From the picture, the bar mounted at one end somewhere near his t-case, and then down to a mount on the top of the pumpkin of rear axle. It runs parallel with the driveshaft. I know that I have some nasty axle wrap (or at least I did when I had the stock toyota springs, now I have the chevys) and this idea appears like a good way to prevent axle wrap. Has anyone seen this, or does anyone know if this works? Because it's a one piece tube, how does it work without preventing any articulation? Anyway, thanks.
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#2 |
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Tacoma-dana 44
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: San Jose
Posts: 383
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Is it 1 bar in the center, or 2 bars from the frame rail to the diff?
Johnny or heim joints on the ladder bars will allow the axle to articulate |
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#3 |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,001
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For single bar: a Heim Joint at both ends, a fitting on the top center of the axle, and attach it to the back side of the carrier bearing crossmember.
For double bar: a Heim joint on both ends of both bars, a double fitting atachment on top center of the axle, and attach to the inside frame rails at the carrier bearing crossmember. Tim |
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#4 |
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Veteran Member
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I believe Budbuilt makes one as well as URD in the near future.
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#5 |
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Veteran Member
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just make one, get 2 peices of 1 1/4 DOM, tap it for 3/4 hiem's, make mount for axle side and make sure to rap it all the way around the axle tube, make mount on hanger bearing crossmember with a shackle on it and all your problems go away, welding required
anyways, here is a pic of mine, i can snap some more close ups if needed. excuse all the other mess under there, everything is in the process of getting redone.
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just a POS buggy
Last edited by zszac111; 02-06-2005 at 10:14 PM. |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
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Do not do a 3 link type bar above the d-shaft. The two link bars I have heard work for some, but I wouldn't suggest it. If you do a 3-link above the d-shaft and put a shackle at the front mounting point, the bar wont do anything at all, so don't try. Do a 3 link type deal like Zac's, make sure one is above the d-shaft, and one below it. and the front needs to be mounted on a 3-4" long shackle. The two rear mounts can be bushings or heims, and the front needs to be a heim that has a fair amount of travel in it, or if the threads are loose, you can just let it spin in the threads when it flexes.
I have some large heim joints that will work for the back two points, and could for the front one if you let it spin in the threads. They are used, but in good condition, and PLENTY beefy for a traction bar. Hope this helps.
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1996 Tacoma on FJ-80's and 37's Last edited by Tacoma747; 02-06-2005 at 10:13 PM. Reason: I can't spell |
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#7 |
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Member
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Doesn't Pro-Comp make traction bars for tacos? I was thinking of getting some, they look pretty nice.
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99' Tacoma 4x4 3.4L, 5spd, S/C, Deckplate, Dual Flow's, 4" ProComp w/ King's, AAL w/ 5150's, 4.88's, TRD lsd, 33x12.5x15 TSX, Optima Red, Grounding Kit, SprayOn Liner, VIPER alarm, hannemann ivan style glass
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#8 |
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Senior Member
TTORA GOLD Sponsor
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: idaho falls idaho
Posts: 334
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the single tube trac bars don't work very well, don't mount anything to the top of the toyota axle unless you wrap it around the diff cover, the housing is just not strong enough,(been there, done that) the best design is like the one pictured in the post above, hiems are not nessecary for the axle end, bushings work fine and are alot cheaper, you do need a hiem on the shackle end. you might also want to reinforce the carrier bearing Xmember that you attach the shackle to (pretty wimpy)
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