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#1 |
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Veteran Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 2,160
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Well since there are no decent write ups available, and crawlers dont seem to come with any instructions of any kind I will share some of my recent crawler experience.
There is alot more to installing a crawler than one may think, granted all Tacomas are not the same. This is referring to a 2004 V6 Tacoma DC. A dozen things that need to be modified to fit a crawler... 1. floorboard, (extent depends on your amount of rotation or clocking and if you have a body lift or not. 20 degrees clocking and 1" body lift requires a decent amount of pounding in one area but nothing too severe. 2. emergency brake, on my truck the crawler moves the transfercase back right into the E-brake bellcrank. This will need to be reworked, there are many possible ways to accomplish this. 3. Driveshafts, front one lengthened, rear (front half) shortened (8.5"for mine) 4. modification of crawler shift lever and TC shift lever to try to aim them at the stock floor opening and the infamous "cupholder" hole. A short shift kit helps with the cupholder hole. 5. cut a big hole in your floor, no matter how much you try it will turn out twice as big as it needs to actually be (at least twice). 6. fab up custom skid plate, many options here. 7. extend sensor wires for TC. 8. custom shift boot to seal gaping hole in floor. 9. some sort of additional crawler mount to support added length, weight, and torque of crawler. 10. Stock up on "ultra grey" silicone and use plenty of it, fixing leaks is a major pain in the ass. 11. get an open account for bolts at Ace Hardware because your going to need lots of additional hardware (studs, bolts, etc.) 12. learn to think out of the box and identify and solve many unforseen and unexpected issues that will arise just when you least expect it. Oh yeah... this will most definately void your warranty
Last edited by mojavehanna; 02-05-2007 at 12:10 AM. |
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#2 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 449
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Thanks for the future heads up! ...and you paid a lot for these issues LOL!!
Enjoy the crawler!
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NormalAmerican Quote:
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#3 |
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Big tars, little bed.
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Thats the good thing about not having a money tree
Gives us po'folks plenty of planning and pondering time. Im not even close financially to a crawler but I have already figured out everything you listed ![]() Anyway congrats on the crawler!
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Southeast Takeover 2010 My Truck and Specs BRC since 2006www.sharetrails.org TLCA #15854 www.tlca.org SFWDA since 2005 www.sfwda.org |
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#4 | |
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Rocket Scientist
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Norcal
Posts: 26,524
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Quote:
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/~ccorley/mods/crawler/ and you can avoid cutting ANY holes in the floor if you go with TBob's bling bling
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: All over NorCal
Posts: 339
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Thanks for the info man. I wouldn't try that without help.
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http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i260/017874/aay.jpg http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i260/017874/abp.jpg http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i2...4/IMG_0409.jpg http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i2...4/IMG_0252.jpg 2004 TRD 4X4 extra cab, Bentup sliders, ARB front bumper, All-pro rear bumper, 265/75/R16 BFG muds |
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#6 | |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Oklahoma State
Posts: 1,315
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Quote:
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Dale 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000. |
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#7 | |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 1,188
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Quote:
(Tierod??)
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85 runner on 37's. 2006 limited 4Runner for the wife
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#8 |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: PDX
Posts: 1,980
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Congrats on the crawler...it is something that I would like to install in mine too. I am sure all the headaches and pains of the installs will be forgotten after you engage the double low and crawl over something you never thought possible...yep I am jealous
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~Robb 1981 Trekker- 220:1 |
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#9 |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 921
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What did you need bolts for? My inchworm kit came with all the neccessary hardware. I did use a junkyard case though so I got some of the bolts from that too. I'll agree with you on the other stuff, but it isnt that hard. Just time consuming. You will need money, time, tools, and general automotive knowledge. Anyone who thinks they can just spend 1500 and get a bolt on double low range is kidding themselves. Congrats on the new crawler.
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#10 |
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truck ~n~ tow
![]() Join Date: May 2005
Location: Hemet/SoCal
Posts: 8,505
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And I have an Inchworm Crawler gift certificate for $ 250 towards the Crawler kit that runs out this month... It's a waste cause I'm not going to be ready for all the expense... And I don't feel like ordering it and just looking at it... $ 250.00 just ain't shiat... LOL
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'00 Taco SR5 V6, 5-SP, 4X, and some extras... Truck... ~n~ ...photo's Trailer... My Garage |
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#11 | |
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Veteran Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 2,160
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Quote:
T bobs set up is nice, but I dont have a twin stick shifter, and I couldnt justify a ton of cash for a set up like that. Besides, I could always weld the hole back up
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#12 | |
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Veteran Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 2,160
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Quote:
Some places bolts wont clear the adapter...studs required. other places stock bolts looked like grade 2, I opted for grade 8. one place only a 6mm. socket head bolt would fit. new skidplate, crossmember, TC mount... all need hardware. I dont like using questionable hardware so if I need a bolt I go buy it... but it adds up in the end with a lot of trips to the store. Thats my whole point is that there is alot more to installing a crawler than ordering the kit and bolting it in. Bolting it in is easy, its all the modification, fabrication, and re-engineering involved that makes it a chore. I would not have been able to do it without my MIG welder, air compressor and cutters/ grinders/ sanders, a cheapo trans jack, and a rather decent assortment of hand tools. Last edited by mojavehanna; 02-05-2007 at 10:48 AM. |
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#13 | |
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Rocket Scientist
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Norcal
Posts: 26,524
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Quote:
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#14 | |
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Alllriight
![]() Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: NorCal
Posts: 3,178
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Quote:
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NorCalTTORA |
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#15 |
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Veteran Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 2,160
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One more thing, 4.7's and auto trans. is nice. I dont know why everyone says its too low its not for rockcrawling and why else would you buy a crawler?
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#16 |
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Alllriight
![]() Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: NorCal
Posts: 3,178
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an auto with a crawler is gotta be cake walk on the rocks
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NorCalTTORA |
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#17 | |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Oklahoma State
Posts: 1,315
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Quote:
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Dale 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000. |
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#18 | |
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Veteran Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 2,160
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Quote:
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#19 |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 921
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I assume your fittment problems was the rear of the crawler. There are two plates that are bolted together. This is also where some of the clocking comes from. If you dont put some of the 14mm bolts into there holes before you join the plates you'll never get them in. Also there is one that is on the inside and bolts the plates to the OE transfer case. Do not install this bolt. If you do you cant remove the transfer case without removing the crawler. This will be a problem if you ever break your input shaft of your transfer case and need a quick replacement. Also makes installing by yourself easier. You shouldnt need any special tools. Some of the bolts can only be reached with a box wrench once the plates are joined.
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#20 | |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 2,214
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Quote:
Seriously- clarify all this with whether or not you built your own. If you have a blue box and are bitching you need a kleenex and dry it the fuck up All thats been covered. In numerous posts. By me
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"i'll help when i get home. help by standing around and scratching my butt and drinking your beer, that is how you help someone work on their truck, right?" -Molly |
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#21 |
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Veteran Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 2,160
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I got a Marlin, rear adapter is one piece. Inchworms are different, as are Marlins of different genres. Im not patting myself on the back with this thread simply supplying information that I tried to find a month ago and could'nt on this board. However, just because Im not bragging does not mean I dont know how to bolt things together.
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#22 | |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 921
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Blue boxes are for rich folk. I like mine all natural. Actually I have a hairline crack in my case that leaks from time to time. Maybe some paint would seal it up.
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#23 |
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Veteran Member
TTORA GOLD Sponsor
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: southern california
Posts: 2,602
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now this is 4x4 tech
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MERCERfabrication.com http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=160557 http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.ph...28#post1994728 Jeremy@mercerfabrication.com Proud member of the SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA TACOMA CLUB 04 tacoma 97 4runner |
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#24 |
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Alllriight
![]() Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: NorCal
Posts: 3,178
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lol just tell that hillbilly to shut his trap
stop crying wes you little queer
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NorCalTTORA |
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#25 |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 921
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I just find it funny that someone who has only been around 3 weeks has so much to say.
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#26 | |
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Alllriight
![]() Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: NorCal
Posts: 3,178
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Quote:
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NorCalTTORA |
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#27 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,446
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Quote:
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#28 | |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 2,214
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Quote:
I know- I tried to follow your writeup, it assumes that whoever is following it knows anything about t-cases and such Still needs to be a comprehensive writeup done though- I don't know about you, but IF you were in the same situation I would understand. At the time I was trying to figure it out I was just cursing alot and kicking parts and on the phone and cursing, for a couple hours. Once I put two and two together- put it back like you tore it apart- it was so fucking simple that w/out having gone through and remembered all the cursing and confusion I would think it was stupid easy now. For that other dude (see I've learned) I've posted 2, maybe 3 long long long ass posts about all the beating, cutting, bla bla bla. Musta just missed them. Oh, and what the fuck does it matter how long I've been here? I either know or I don't- everything else is just butthurt nancy seniority shit. Whoever did the 11th didn't have shit more than you did- going by the two and a half writeups that are out there.
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"i'll help when i get home. help by standing around and scratching my butt and drinking your beer, that is how you help someone work on their truck, right?" -Molly |
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#29 |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 921
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Why the name change then? That explains a few things.
Edit- It doesnt matter how long you've been around. I didnt realize you changed your name. Honestly I thought where the hell did this guy come from for the last three weeks. Usually new guys start out asking "will it be OK if I stack 3 Fabtech lifts to get the 18" of lift I need to clear 44's on my stock 2.7", not jumping right into SAS tech. Last edited by shovelracer; 02-06-2007 at 11:08 PM. |
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#30 | |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 2,214
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Quote:
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"i'll help when i get home. help by standing around and scratching my butt and drinking your beer, that is how you help someone work on their truck, right?" -Molly |
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