Class 7 2001 Tacoma Build

[budders]

Not having a 2nd O2 sensor would do a lot. The second O2 sensor is what checks to see if the catalyst in your cat is working efficiently and tells the ECU to go into closed loop when the cat heats up. If you don't have a second O2 sensor on these things, it won't go into closed loop!

This basicaly means that the ecu is trying to adjust injector duration and timing to help heat up the engine as fast as possible which you will most likely feel when you stomp on the skinny peddle.

Also, you need to have one ground strap going from the heads to the firewall and another going from the block to the firewall for everything to be grounded properly. This is due to the dissimilar metals between the block and head and so you don't have any cavitation or electrolysis going on between the heads and the block - at least that's what I was told when I worked for Toyota. We would see issues with this when doing headgaskets where the engine wasn't grounded properly - they would have cavitaion (pitting) in the top surface of the block. Sometimes it was bad enough that the block couldn't be machined within spec which is sad because other than that, they were ok.

[Mr Tacomi]

Originally Posted by cabbage

There is only 1 wire on the passenger side, near the power steering pump that we cant figure where it went... Its a thin green wire that looks like it pulled off...

Near my ('02) P.S. pump is a wire (black) that goes to the sensor on the P.S. pressure hose... in that same harness is the wire (black w/green) that goes to the A.C. clutch.

Love the vids!

[cabbage]

Originally Posted by budders

Not having a 2nd O2 sensor would do a lot. The second O2 sensor is what checks to see if the catalyst in your cat is working efficiently and tells the ECU to go into closed loop when the cat heats up. If you don't have a second O2 sensor on these things, it won't go into closed loop!

This basicaly means that the ecu is trying to adjust injector duration and timing to help heat up the engine as fast as possible which you will most likely feel when you stomp on the skinny peddle.

Also, you need to have one ground strap going from the heads to the firewall and another going from the block to the firewall for everything to be grounded properly. This is due to the dissimilar metals between the block and head and so you don't have any cavitation or electrolysis going on between the heads and the block - at least that's what I was told when I worked for Toyota. We would see issues with this when doing headgaskets where the engine wasn't grounded properly - they would have cavitaion (pitting) in the top surface of the block. Sometimes it was bad enough that the block couldn't be machined within spec which is sad because other than that, they were ok.

Very good info! Thank You!! What about the speedo? Is it required? Will try to find another O2 sensor... And make sure we get all the grounds!

Originally Posted by Mr Tacomi

Near my ('02) P.S. pump is a wire (black) that goes to the sensor on the P.S. pressure hose... in that same harness is the wire (black w/green) that goes to the A.C. clutch.

Love the vids!

Ahhh... A/C.... we got rid of the compressor... Thanks for checking!

[prerunnerguy]

Originally Posted by socalmoto

I just checked and the ground on the sc is on and tight. The engine is also grounded from a large bolt on the side of the engine to the frame (batteries in back are grounded through the frame as well). Is there any other places to check? And would not having a second o2 sensor do anything? I heard it was only for the comp to check that the second cat was working . . .






Thats pretty damn light for a d-cab. There seems to be a lot of people on dr that weigh mid 4k with mid sized extra cabs . . . they must throw 1/4" plate every where on the truck or something haha

It weighed 4,020 before I added the second spare, the jack, and second battery now that I think about it.

[socalmoto]

Originally Posted by budders

Not having a 2nd O2 sensor would do a lot. The second O2 sensor is what checks to see if the catalyst in your cat is working efficiently and tells the ECU to go into closed loop when the cat heats up. If you don't have a second O2 sensor on these things, it won't go into closed loop!

Hmmmm that sucks. We havent had a 2nd o2 sensor since last august at the night race when some dipshit never returned the rear half of our exhaust.

Originally Posted by budders

Also, you need to have one ground strap going from the heads to the firewall and another going from the block to the firewall for everything to be grounded properly.

I just checked and we do have a ground on the pass side head going to the firewall. The block looks like the only ground is the large one to the frame. It should be fine though right? The body, rollcage, and frame are all welded together and do have could conductivity. If I remember correctly theres 2-3 ohms resistance from the battery to the front of the firewall and from the batt to the frame at the block ground.

Originally Posted by budders

This is due to the dissimilar metals between the block and head and so you don't have any cavitation or electrolysis going on between the heads and the block

Thats pretty crazy. I would think the bolts between the heads and the block would be enough to bridge any electric potential difference between the two.

[nzanesmith]

Hey Milton which e machine were you using and which touch screen? That was a crazy setup and i really like that you can do tons of things from one spot.

[cabbage]

Originally Posted by nzanesmith

Hey Milton which e machine were you using and which touch screen? That was a crazy setup and i really like that you can do tons of things from one spot.

We're running a ASUS EEE Box PC B202, with a 8" Xenarc touchscreen (old version 400 cd/m2 I believe, I bought it new off ebay for $200). As for the gps software, running Garmin gps 18. Let me know if you have any other questions!

Thanks sooo much for driving that supercharger belt out to us!! Dont forget to call me when your out here!

[socalmoto]

Thanks a bunch nick!!!!! That belt you brought us saved our race. Without it we probably would have only gotten one or two laps in.

[budders]

Sounds like your grounds should be good. I would definately get a rear o2 sensor though.

I'm still not sure if a speedo is needed with your setup or not.
I'm pretty sure the speedo gear sends the signal to your gauges and then there is something in the gauges that filters that signal and sends it to the ecu. I've heard about a "Blue wire" mod to these speedo sensors to fool the speed limiter, but have not had any experience doing this. You might want to look that up.

And yes, the electrolysis thing between the block and the head is still kinda a mystery to me too, but I've seen the results and it's not pretty.

[LuminoZ]

Originally Posted by budders

Not having a 2nd O2 sensor would do a lot. The second O2 sensor is what checks to see if the catalyst in your cat is working efficiently and tells the ECU to go into closed loop when the cat heats up. If you don't have a second O2 sensor on these things, it won't go into closed loop!

This basicaly means that the ecu is trying to adjust injector duration and timing to help heat up the engine as fast as possible which you will most likely feel when you stomp on the skinny peddle.

Also, you need to have one ground strap going from the heads to the firewall and another going from the block to the firewall for everything to be grounded properly. This is due to the dissimilar metals between the block and head and so you don't have any cavitation or electrolysis going on between the heads and the block - at least that's what I was told when I worked for Toyota. We would see issues with this when doing headgaskets where the engine wasn't grounded properly - they would have cavitaion (pitting) in the top surface of the block. Sometimes it was bad enough that the block couldn't be machined within spec which is sad because other than that, they were ok.

Dude just get the URD o2 sensor simulator for like $60. Its takes 5 minutes to install, and you can run no cats just fine. Ive had one for about a year now, and I've never had a problem.

[marnes2986]

Ive enjoyed watching the progress....my group and I have rooted for you whenever the truck flys by at the couple races we seen you guys in.

Please more info on the gps/touch screen setup..
Also more info on this!

[AllJumpStyle]

It's just a motorcycle intercom setup intended for street bikes. I think it's bluetooth so it can sync to your phone too, or any other bluetooth device. Mainly intended for communicating between motorcycles, but no reason it shouldn't work in a race truck too.

[cabbage]

Originally Posted by marnes2986

Ive enjoyed watching the progress....my group and I have rooted for you whenever the truck flys by at the couple races we seen you guys in.

Please more info on the gps/touch screen setup..

You need to stop by pit and say hi next time!

The guys preran the course and put in notes with a keyboard. Here are some screen shots, let me know if you have any other questions!

Actual scale during the race was a little larger (0.2mile)


A zoomed out look of what the whole map looked like

Originally Posted by AllJumpStyle

It's just a motorcycle intercom setup intended for street bikes. I think it's bluetooth so it can sync to your phone too, or any other bluetooth device. Mainly intended for communicating between motorcycles, but no reason it shouldn't work in a race truck too.

How have you been Chris?! Your absolutely right! Bluetooth intercom that bikers use. I haven't used it myself in the truck so I'll let the guys chime in on what they think. Got it for $242 off ebay.

[socalmoto]

Originally Posted by LuminoZ

Dude just get the URD o2 sensor simulator for like $60. Its takes 5 minutes to install, and you can run no cats just fine. Ive had one for about a year now, and I've never had a problem.

Now how does the simulator actually work? It says that the computer needs to recalibrate from time to time, so does that mean at higher elevations the o2 sensor would put out a different signal than at low elevation? If so then wouldnt the mapping be off from when we run in town at 0ft or at races at 3000ft? If its just there to trick the computer into thinking theres cats, then it wouldnt matter.

And it seems we are getting a 4.0L motor. We will prob be running the 3.4L at the night race because we have to reassemble the wiring harness of the 4.0 somewhat . . . not gonna be fun for a mechanical guy like me.

Originally Posted by cabbage

I haven't used it myself in the truck so I'll let the guys chime in on what they think.

Ya they were WAY badass!!! We broke down quite a few times and it was really nice that I could jump out of the truck (wireless headset) and talk to the codriver that was still in the truck without having to yell. I could tell them to either get certain tools out of the bag, get a rag, get out their phone, etc and we can hear each other perfectly over 100ft away. It also worked really well inside the truck and we just talked like normal and could hear each other without the usual 'WHAAAT?!!!!'

[AllJumpStyle]

Originally Posted by cabbage

How have you been Chris?! Your absolutely right! Bluetooth intercom that bikers use. I haven't used it myself in the truck so I'll let the guys chime in on what they think. Got it for $242 off ebay.

I've been good. I sell these all the time at work. Pretty neat little units.

[AZNPG]

congrats on finishing the race guys didn't even know u guys were racing it this year

[socalmoto]

Originally Posted by AZNPG

congrats on finishing the race guys didn't even know u guys were racing it this year

Hahaha ya this was our 3rd race. I destroyed a cylinder at the last race 10 miles in but were we able to finish the other 190 miles. We got the engine rebuilt and in the truck tuesday before the nightrace but unfortunately whatever destroyed the center driver side piston at the last race did it again this race. The cylinder went out as we were coming up to rockpile on the first lap (3.5 miles in haha) and I lost power. We had to pull over at the bottom of the hill cause 1/2 a quart of oil blew out of the crank breather. We still finished the other 146.5 miles and actually beat over half the field hahaha Were gonna try to swap in the 4.0 now but prob wont get it ready for the next race. Maybe november race.

[AZNPG]

damn might as well go with the 4.0 with the turbo 400 tranny lc engineering sells the adapter for everything to bolt up

[socalmoto]

Originally Posted by AZNPG

damn might as well go with the 4.0 with the turbo 400 tranny lc engineering sells the adapter for everything to bolt up

We already have the auto tranny with the 4.0 and its not really in the budget to setup a turbo 400 with a $550 adapter. But if the yota tranny cant handle the des, well see what happens.

[usaf_taco]

i would like to see a 4.0 swap. that way i could follow your lead and swap one into mine, after you do all the r&d.lol

[kmrofka]

socalmoto i was wondering if you could post up some more info on your lt you designed for you truck i wanted to try to make something my self based off of your design

[socalmoto]

Originally Posted by kmrofka

socalmoto i was wondering if you could post up some more info on your lt you designed for you truck i wanted to try to make something my self based off of your design

Pm sent

We have started the engine swap and after pulling all the old wiring and stuff, Im now realizing how hard this may get hahahaha. After two years of planning around someday hooking up the heater vents, I have decided just to ditch it all and gain a lot more room for the new wiring and shit. Im also thinking that I may make a custom aluminum dash to fit everything in easier. So far it seems like the 4.0 exhaust will not fit in the truck. There are two cats that are directly after the exhaust manifolds and they are probably gonna be too wide to fit between the frame rails. The 2wd oil pan will also not fit with the high ground clearance crossmembers we have, so were going to have to see what we can do with that. Milton mentioned that a 4wd oil pan has the drop bulge at the front which is the way the 3.4 was.

[brock]

jesus christ... wheres the beer?

[Mr Tacomi]

Definitely never going back to stock.

[trifenix]

ur going to have to modify the exhaust manifold (custom header?) or cut some of the firewall.

[socalmoto]

Originally Posted by brock

jesus christ... wheres the beer?

Beer was afterwards, only way Id stay motivated to work. If I drank while working Id say . . . ahh screw this wiring stuff, lets do it tom hahah

Originally Posted by Mr Tacomi

Definitely never going back to stock.

Ya what was the first hint hahahaha. We shoulda just bought a frame and cab . . . but I never woulda thought it would end up going this far.

Originally Posted by trifenix

ur going to have to modify the exhaust manifold (custom header?) or cut some of the firewall.

Custom exhaust I think will be the only way. Were limited with class rules to where the engine can be and I think the exhaust is gonna hit the frame rails.

[brock]

Originally Posted by socalmoto

Beer was afterwards, only way Id stay motivated to work. If I drank while working Id say . . . ahh screw this wiring stuff, lets do it tom hahah

story of my life, i always want to just go take a nap.

[menacekustoms]

All that wiring looks hella fun! I love that stuff, really I do!

[brock]

Originally Posted by menacekustoms

All that wiring looks hella fun! I love that stuff, really I do!

since u love it do u want to relocate my computer to the bed of my truck or behind my dash for me for free?

[budders]

I'd be willing to bet that the JBA shorty headers for the 4.0 FJ cruiser would clear just fine. They dont' have that big bulged out collector/cat thing on the downstream end.