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1. Gas powered air compressor, we have a commercial honda one
2. A really nice torque wrench, the kind you don't let friends borrow
3. Aluminum race jack (expensive but the weight makes them worth it)
4. A ratching wrench or set if you can find one
5. Dremel tool with kit
6. Corded drill, cordless drills aren't worth a shit when it comes to drilling through thick metal (ie your frame)
1. Gas powered air compressor, we have a commercial honda one
2. A really nice torque wrench, the kind you don't let friends borrow
3. Aluminum race jack (expensive but the weight makes them worth it)
4. A ratching wrench or set if you can find one
5. Dremel tool with kit
6. Corded drill, cordless drills aren't worth a shit when it comes to drilling through thick metal (ie your frame)
Just some ideas.
1. Oooh. Sounds good to me
2. Ditto #1
3. Already have a quicklift shop jack - not aluminum but it gets my tires off the ground in 3-4 pumps
4. I've never quite gotten on the ratcheting wrench bandwagon - my craftsman socket wrench and normal wrenches do me just fine
5. Got it
6. On it's way - my little christmas present to me.
Ratching wrenches are worth their weight in gold for tight areas where you are trying to tigheten or loosen a bolt/nut that you can turn more than a 1/4 turn at a time, and a socket won't fit.
Do yourself a favor, save your eardrums and dont get an oiless compressor. I am replacing my craftsman 32 gallon oiless with a 80 gal 2 stage, and I can actually have a conversation right next to it.....WHILE ITS ON. THat loud ass craftsman can lick my balls. If I didnt need the money, Id shoot it.
air compressor, a good one, not a cheap ass one (they seem to self destruct pretty quickly)
Good welder (lincon or Miller)
Plasma cutter
Chop Saw
Fridge for the shop (cold beer is good)
bandsaw
good impact gun
220 outlets if you dont have them already
some steel to make stuff out of.....
Negative - it's actually the first thing on my tool list. Anybody know how big of a tank I'll need to use air tools?
Home Depot has a good deal for a Husky 22 Gal upright on wheels that comes with a BUNCH of air tools. It retails for $299.00. That would be sufficient for a basic garage gear head who tools around the house.
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- Proud Member Since 7/13/2001!
the post above is a good example. I dont know what kind we have at our shop but its pretty big and somewhat old, it runs off of 3 phase if that tells ya something. but it is loud as hell
Well, I'm looking for some tools to add to my garage since people are still looking for Christmas gifts for me. Any suggestions?
A pressure bleeder! you can bleed brake lines without any help and you can also bleed cluth slaves with them.
If you really want to get ellibrate, ask for a OBII code scanner–you never know when you will need it, but would be nice to have on hand before you need it.
an impact air chisel or hammer. makes those frozen/rusted bolts free with ease, but you need the air compressor first.
If money is no object, a two stage 62+gallon air compressor is the way to go.
Another couple of items off my list are an air circulator/filter for the garage. Lowes has a Delta for $200 or a large wet/dry shop vac.
Also a good creeper or a floor epoxy. ( I used the rustoleum floor epoxy on my garage before we even moved a box into the house–drove from the closing straight to the new house and painted the garage floor! The wife even helped, next day we moved in! ) It has been a great investment so far!
__________________ BEAR
OVERKILL IS AN UNDERRATED ACHIEVEMENT
Originally Posted by abbott
… remember, in the world of cars and trucks, its not cubic inches, its cubic dollars.
ANY compressor that is not an "oil free" or "direct drive" type. Direct drive compressors are the loudest and the maintenance/oil free models usually burn out the bearings quickly from heavy use.
www.chpower.com
Campbell Hausfeld makes some good quality and affordable compressors for garage and shop use.
www.irgaragesolutions.com
Ingersoll-Rand makes some more serious and heavy-duty products. If you don't mind a larger up-front cost, you will find a well built quality product that will last for years.
Define your Max CFM reqirement. most air hog tool you might ever run, multiply that by 1.5 and look for that CFM rating. HP ratings mean nothing anymore. HUSKY and home depot/lowes stuff all rate on peak HP. Get the best you can afford.
Also a good creeper or a floor epoxy. ( I used the rustoleum floor epoxy on my garage before we even moved a box into the house–drove from the closing straight to the new house and painted the garage floor! The wife even helped, next day we moved in! ) It has been a great investment so far!
How big is your garage and how much did that epoxy cost you? I've been planning on painting mine and maybe adding a little grit for traction this coming summer but I didn't know you could get DIY epoxy.
How big is your garage and how much did that epoxy cost you? I've been planning on painting mine and maybe adding a little grit for traction this coming summer but I didn't know you could get DIY epoxy.
Now that you put me on the spot, my mind has turned to mush (okay that is a normal condition )
Anyway, we have a two car garage, before moving in, I asked a question on the ole delphi board and got a lot of response about all kinds of products. I ended up getting the Rustoleum brand because it was readily available locally. ( we have three "major" hardware/lumber yard chains here) I want to say it cost in the neighborhood of $49 bucks an application.(just checked with my accountant…I mean my wife for an accurate cost. Will edit if need be) For a two car garage it takes two applications (2 kits). We had about a 1/4 of a gallon left over, but it won't save so we tossed it as my wife wouldn't let me do the front stoop
I was concerned with traction as well and thought about adding sand for texture. But the confitti they provide is pretty good by itself. After thinking about it, I figured that adding the sand would only be hard on my knees if I had to kneel while working or rough on the clothing if I was having to slide out from under a vehicle very much. Not to mention using a creeper, the texture surface would also make it a rougher surface to roll over. We have been in the house for almost two months. So far so good. When the movers rolled up to the house at 8 am the morning after I applied the "paint" it was still tacky from just finishing it at midnight the night before. So I kept them off of it until about noon. Then we put cardboard over it "just to be safe" as to not leave any impression in the soft paint. Well I can tell you that we did not have any issues with the cardboard sticking nor impressions left by heavy objects. I have already dropped a set of leaf springs on the floor at least 4 times without any chipping and split some oil and other fluids on it without any visible effects and easy clean ups. It also actually makes sweeping dust up easier than having a non treated floor. That I know from my old houses.
Okay, I'll close this "informercial" now, sorry.
One more thing though. The "sales clerk" at one store told me that we needed muratic acid to etch the floor before applying for a better adhesion. But if you read the box, it advised against using it, and supplies a cleaner for prewashing the cement. But with our garage being a virgin, with no prior traffic on it, I just swept real good before painting and it turned out fine.
__________________ BEAR
OVERKILL IS AN UNDERRATED ACHIEVEMENT
Originally Posted by abbott
… remember, in the world of cars and trucks, its not cubic inches, its cubic dollars.
1. Gas powered air compressor, we have a commercial honda one
2. A really nice torque wrench, the kind you don't let friends borrow
3. Aluminum race jack (expensive but the weight makes them worth it)
4. A ratching wrench or set if you can find one
5. Dremel tool with kit
6. Corded drill, cordless drills aren't worth a shit when it comes to drilling through thick metal (ie your frame)
Just some ideas.
Get the ROT ZIP, it has more torque.
Get a real cordless drill and it will go through a frame just fine. Never had probs with my dewalt 14.4
Get the ROT ZIP, it has more torque.
Get a real cordless drill and it will go through a frame just fine. Never had probs with my dewalt 14.4
When we put the 5th wheel on my dad's old truck a 18V dewalt couldn't even come close. There is no replacement for a good corded drill hate to tell ya. I have a cordless dewalt and it is fine for most applications. A cordless maybe ok for the paper thin frame on a Tacoma (I know I have one), but it isn't going to cut it on a heavier truck or really thick metal.
One more thing though. The "sales clerk" at one store told me that we needed muratic acid to etch the floor before applying for a better adhesion. But if you read the box, it advised against using it, and supplies a cleaner for prewashing the cement. But with our garage being a virgin, with no prior traffic on it, I just swept real good before painting and it turned out fine.
Ah, the virgin garage. Sadly mine is not a virgin - more of a cheap hooker, really since the house was a renter before we moved in. It's ok, though, I know that the garage was only being subjected to having automotive fluids spilled all over it because it was a victim of its environment. I forgave it with a pressure washer and it's made a complete turnaround now.
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