Do-it-yourself factory skid plate replacement

From Faq

Have a do-it-yourself scrape plate? List it here!

Files are courtesy of Paul Mooney.

.PDF File of Skidplate 1: [1] .PDF File of Skidplate 2: [2]

.DWG (CAD) File of Skidplate 1: [3] .DWG (CAD) File of Skidplate 2: [4]

Pictures of Skidplate:

[5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]

Additional Notes:

• Thickness of the plates used can be any reasonable thickness for skid

plates. I compared thicknesses used by commercial vendors to find suitable thickness for my needs. Check with local machine/fab shops for prices & availability of preferred material.

I used 5/16" Aluminum, and took a little bashing for it. In KY there are a few rocks & logs, but I'm not hard-core. Plus, don't feel the added weight of steel is a plus, but others might. I found through research if you increase the thickness by 50% Aluminum can be used instead of steel for the SAME job. No rust + less weight is a good thing. Considering the plate is there to take a beating as well, it should not transfer any damage by pulling on the frame or what not. Anyway, the plan is flexible by the user.

I also sprayed the front of my plate with undercoating to not attract attention. My Tacoma is stock height, & I'm not trying to get into any competitions. Just protect my investment better.

• This drawing will work for Stock height Tacomas wanting to use

existing mounting locations which means NO drilling required. Both stock skid pieces are integrated into one main piece, which means easier removal & install for eminence. Although, the existing bolts that hold the OEM skid plates on are made of very mild steel. I have found that the stock bolts and nuts strip out. Once I get a chance I'm going to get Grade 8 nuts spot-welded in the stock locations to correct this weak link. I have already replaced the bolts to Grade 8 Stainless.

• If anyone wants to remove the 7 front holes or change the design,

they are free to do so. The oval is located the same as the stock plate is for ease of maintence. I had a friend draw these plans up on AutoCAD, and took it down to the local machine shop. They entered the drawing into there system, & had a plasma laser cut out the design. Then bent the material at the instructed points, with one massive break. I took it home and it bolted right up the first time. My design has its roots in cardboard to get the measurements.

• I also got some crap over the transfer skid design, but it is tucked

out of the way more than the main plate, and it still adds much more protection than stock. I'll certainly use a better design if someone is willing to come up with one that doesn't cost much. I used rubber grommets to isolate the vibration coming from it resting against the transfer case, & bolting a 3rd & 4th bolt to the stock transfer case's skid will also cause even more vibration so those holes are not included.

• I have $150 total in both plates pictured in the set of drawings. $75

material using 5/16" Aluminum plate & $75 in labor using a plasma cutter & massive brake.

• Cheap do-it-yourself plate to replace the factory front scrape plate that covers the steering rack and lower suspension.

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