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Rear Axle Seal

From Faq

Rear Axle Seal Replacement

  • Support truck via rear axle 3rd member 05.jpg


  • Remove wheels 3rd member 17.jpg


  • Drain rear differential fluid (*Make sure you are able to loosen the fill plug before you remove the drain plug) Tacoma rear axle seal 01.jpg


  • Disconnect parking brake at each drum 3rd member 18.jpg 3rd member 02.jpg


  • Disconnect rear hard brakelines at drum using 10mm flare wrench- try to cap the hard line to minimize brake fluid loss 3rd member 01.jpg 3rd member 03.jpg


  • Remove the (4)nuts on the back plate of the drum 3rd member 04.jpg 3rd member 20.jpg
  • Remove rear axle shafts by carefully sliding the shafts outward (Keep the shaft parallel to the axle tube to avoid damaging the rear axle seals) 3rd member 08.jpg
  • If you are replacing your rear axle seals due to a leak- you will need to remove the brake drum for later cleaning Tacoma rear axle seal 03.jpg
  • There are two threaded holes (use 10mm x1.25 bolts) to facilitate drum removal Tacoma rear axle seal 02.jpg
  • Set the rear axle shafts aside - Be Careful to avoid damage to whell studs. Tacoma rear axle seal 04.jpg
  • Here is a pic of the seal puller, rear axle seal , and O-ring for the backside shaft Tacoma rear axle seal 08.jpg
  • Here are close up shot of the axle tube with the seals visible Tacoma rear axle seal 06.jpg
  • Here is a shot of the axle seal removed Tacoma rear axle seal 07.jpg
  • Installation of new rear axle seal, & O-ring are opposite of removal
  • Be sure to wash the rear brakes assembly with detergent or degreaser to remove any residual gear oil Tacoma rear axle seal 10.jpg

--Grillmasterp 23:08, 27 Apr 2005 (PDT) will update with torque specs

Edit by Ed Quinones (aka EQuin) on 10-7-05: You can also use the claw end of a hammer to pull out the old axle seal. You'll have to carefully pull on it with some force, though. It doesn't matter if you damage the old axle oil seal this way, just be careful not to scratch or gouge the axle tube housing itself with the claw end of the hammer.

Also, when installing the new axle oil seal, it helps to put it in the fridge or freezer for a little while to get the molecules to contract, making it a tad bit smaller. Then apply some lubricating grease on it so it'll slide/press into the end of the axle tube housing a little easier. I also used a wooden block cut to shape to gently tap/press the axle oil seal into place at the end of the axle tube housing. When placing the axle back in, be careful not to hit the new axle oil seal so as not to damage it.

Check the rear diff breather to make sure it is not plugged. A plugged up diff breather can theoretically be a cause for an axle oil seal to blow. To check the diff breather, unbolt it from the top of the rear diff, then blow on it. If you feel/hear air blowing through, then it's fine. Otherwise, it's clogged. A new one should cost no more than $15-$20 at the dealership. Do not overfill the rear diff when you're all done. If it's too full, it could also theoretically cause an axle oil seal to blow. Lastly, be sure to bleed the brakes after you reconnect the rear brake lines.


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