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post #1 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-09-2013, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Interest in a 'roller'?

You guys would know far better than I, so I was hoping for some advice.

I'm gonna throw a D60 under my truck and tube the back past the cab. I thought it would be kinda retarded if I cut everything up, including the frame. So would you guys think there would be any interest in a 'roller'? (Or whatever you call it.) Or is it just better to part everything out? This would include both bumpers, frame, wheels/tires, axles and suspension. I would be happy as a pig in shit to get 1k for it, or is that too much?

'04 Taco 2.7L engine, tranny, tcase, cab, half a frame. Junk.
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post #2 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-10-2013, 01:09 AM
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you can leave that stock bed on my driveway if im not around haha


Part what your not using to mitigate cost of the SAS. are you building the full frame or just forward of the cab and back of? Save the vin and put it in the new section just so its all legit.

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post #3 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-10-2013, 08:06 AM
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It was good to meet you yesterday...

Maybe you said so, but I forget, what would you be keeping if you were to sell that truck as a roller? Different people have different ideas of what that is.

Are you talking about just ditching the frame, suspension and axles, but keeping the cab, drivetrain and everything under the hood? If so, I don't think there's much of a market for a frame and suspension only sale. You could probably sell most of the suspension parts, but I don't see selling the frame by itself.

I vote that it would not be worth the hassle of fabricating a frame from scratch. That's alot of work and alot of opportunity to screw things up with limited fab/build experience. I would think that keeping the frame square while welding it all together is going to be tough. Re-creating all the little tabs and what not is going to add up to a PITA with little advantage over just hacking up the frame.


As usual, I could be wrong. that's just my

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post #4 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-10-2013, 12:40 PM
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Are your diffs geared? I'd be intersted in those...

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post #5 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-10-2013, 04:15 PM
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I am lost in the "roller" translation.


Where does that come into play since the conversation started with "im putting a d60 under my truck"

roller chassis? As in you will not actually be putting a d60 under your truck , but instead building everything from scratch and selling current truck? or taking the body and selling everything else?

or roller d60? As in either stock or built.

The part about being happy with 1k leads me to think that you are trying to sell the d60 as a roller, or is the truck dif than the one in your avatar pict, the one in the pict looks like much more than a 1k truck.


I am fucking confused! 1k for a roller d60 may not be out of the question, but 1k for a nice truck seems too cheap.



If all else fails........... work with what you have!!!!




these arent the droids your looking for ................

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post #6 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-10-2013, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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If I just cut it up, the only sections that would remain run the length of the cab. Seems to be a bit of a hassle to add a body lift and cut all the crossmembers off, as well as the sliders.

If intact taco frames are as hard to find as I thought they are, I figured I could make one available and at the same time just throw some square tubing of similar dimensions under there and weld some body mounts on at a desired height rather than add a 1" body lift. I'd come out with a cleaner end product and someone else could have a complete taco frame to work with.

If there's no market for a frame and I have to deal with VIN issues, then I couldn't care less if I cut it up.

As the truck sits now, the only parts I would be keeping would be the cab, bed, engine, tranny, tcase, and fuel/evap/emissions stuff.

The parts to get rid of would be the frame, bumpers, sliders, suspension, wheels/tires, axles, diffs, and drive shafts.

I hope that clarifies things.

As for the question about the diffs, I'm running open/open cryoed 5.29s. They probably won't be availble until fall sometime. Your PM box is full BTW.

'04 Taco 2.7L engine, tranny, tcase, cab, half a frame. Junk.
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post #7 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-10-2013, 09:30 PM
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Cleared pm's text me about those skids.

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post #8 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-11-2013, 09:17 AM
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Ahh clear as mud now my friend!



I would cut what you have now and go the truggy route. Or tube the entire thing and sell what you have now minus what you need to keep engine, tranny, etc..... I think you would get the best bang with one of those options.


I am partial to the cut the crap out of what you have now. Although, I will say from experiance that you will want to lose the stupid awkward sized taco fuel tank and replace with a cell or something like an f150 tank. My taco tank is too big and gets in the way all the time. One day I will follow the above advice.


Bed? why keep the bed if your cutting the back of the frame off? If you want to keep the bed, then i am leaning even further toward cutting what you have.

In any case! I look forward to seeing what you decide.

Jerry

'98 Tacoma TRD

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post #9 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-12-2013, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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I was keeping the bed so I can cut it up and make removable bedsides for the tubed portion.

Figured I'd keep the tank so I can move all the parts over to a fuel cell. I'll have limited room to work with as it is, so that's likely my best or only option. I'd consider building my own, but I've looked all over and can't find SHIT on how to build a proper baffle setup. There's not a whole lot of anything about gas tanks in general for that matter.

I'd like to keep this thing street legal.

As for the frame, Russell mentioned the VIN. Is it necessary to have? If I sold the frame do I have to be concerned about paperwork/documentation issues? Is it all on a state by state basis for regs?

Where the hell is the VIN located on the frame anyway? Haha

'04 Taco 2.7L engine, tranny, tcase, cab, half a frame. Junk.
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post #10 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-19-2013, 09:06 PM
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for the tank baffles you might check with 00regcab (Nate) iirc he fabbed one up. Or maybe he was going to cab one up. I know I have seen them on pirate over the years.



As far as the frame having a VIN. I don't know. I looked all over the outside of mine and I don't see anything stamped on it, i swear i have seen #'s stamped on it somewhere..... although i could have covered them up with frame plating and what not.




Damn... i must be getting old. Writing this post just made me realize i cant remember shit!

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post #11 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 02:00 AM
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Were you getting off I25 at 119 tonight? I could have sworn i saw your taco on the off ramp as we passed by.

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post #12 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 08:24 AM
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I'm pretty sure the VIn is on the passenger side frame rail in between the motor mount and firewall. And yeah, Nate did build one. I don't think it's finished tho.

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post #13 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrdoug View Post
I'm pretty sure the VIn is on the passenger side frame rail in between the motor mount and firewall. And yeah, Nate did build one. I don't think it's finished tho.
That would explain why i cant see mine.... its plated over.

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post #14 of 44 (permalink) Old 07-17-2013, 03:04 PM
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This may be a dead and gone issue.... but i found the serial number on the frame.

It is on passenger side behind the rear axle, stamped right in the middle of the frame rail. It isnít the VIN though.

Jerry

'98 Tacoma TRD

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post #15 of 44 (permalink) Old 07-17-2013, 04:20 PM
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Frame stampings aren't complete VINs; it's the model number and sequence/build number. The middle digits are left out that identify the engine/trans, plant of origin and stuff like that. I have no idea why, but that's how they do it. Probably some legal thing.

Example: my 84's VIN was JT4RN60R9E5006979 but the frame only had RN60-006979 on it. Maybe they stamp the entire VIN these days, I don't know but kinda don't think so.


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post #16 of 44 (permalink) Old 07-17-2013, 08:29 PM
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post #17 of 44 (permalink) Old 07-18-2013, 08:56 AM
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Why cut up the bed, when you could sell a complete bed and get fiberglass bedsides?

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post #18 of 44 (permalink) Old 07-18-2013, 10:43 AM
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One guy used a bedliner inside a tube bed; simple.

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post #19 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-04-2013, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mythica View Post
This may be a dead and gone issue.... but i found the serial number on the frame.

It is on passenger side behind the rear axle, stamped right in the middle of the frame rail. It isnít the VIN though.
Yeah I found that VIN info as well, on the passenger side just forward of the firewall. Mine is painted over.

Quote:
Originally Posted by devinsixtyseven View Post
Why cut up the bed, when you could sell a complete bed and get fiberglass bedsides?
Fiberglass is harder to work with and/or repair, probably easier to damage, costs more, have fun bobbing fiberglass, aaaannnnd it's too late.


Took yall's advice. Glad I did.


'04 Taco 2.7L engine, tranny, tcase, cab, half a frame. Junk.
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post #20 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-04-2013, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
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Took yall's advice. Glad I did.

I LOVE FELIX!!!!

and I have the stickers to prove it

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post #21 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-05-2013, 08:31 AM
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Lookin forward to watching this project.

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post #22 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-05-2013, 03:19 PM
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Wicked Kool!!!


Im sure im not the first and wont be the last, but be carefull with those cinder blocks!

Jerry

'98 Tacoma TRD

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......Savage Rabid Beast.......
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post #23 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-07-2013, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I turned the blocks upright to hold weight the way they were designed to and put wood top and bottom to soften any impact and disperse the weight.

I made a dumbass move one night and forgot to weld a brace in before I cut the cossmembers underneath. I later climbed up in the truck via the sliders and the frame shifted on the jack stands and I nearly pooped myself. The frame was then sitting at an inward angle. I wedged a 2"x6" in between and tacked the jack stand to the frame after that.

How it sits now, in the process of removing any unused wiring-



I'm in WI (closest place to wheel is Indiana. ) for awhile due to school so I'm taking my time with this build, so any thoughts of "unnecessary" or "too much work than it's worth" is not an issue here.

I'd like the truck to maintain some level of DD capability or creature comforts, to include retaining the A/C and heat if possible. But a major goal with this build is to maximize effective weight displacement and low COG. Additionally I want to clear up as much of the engine compartment as I can for an engine cage and turbo.

Soooo keeping that in mind, is it completely retarded/impossible to relocate the entire heat/AC/blower to the xtra cab portion behind the seats? That would clear up room under the dash to move the fuse box, brake (and possibly clutch) MCs, and air intake into that area. Doing so would help with both shifting the weight and clear up the engine compartment for the aforementioned reasons and allow more space for an intercooler.

Rerouting tubes, electric A/C compressor, using a unit from a completely different vehicle, are all options I'd be open to.

Any thoughts?

'04 Taco 2.7L engine, tranny, tcase, cab, half a frame. Junk.
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post #24 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-07-2013, 04:03 PM
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That is an interesting idea!

I must say I love the fact that i still have my AC!


I am not sure how you would be able to get the AC compressor back there to work. Not sure what you could run it with. Going way out on a limb i supposed you could try and run it with a pully off the DS, through the floor. But that seems like an impossible amount of work for very little gain, plus when you are stoppped the compressor would not work.

For the minimul gain i dont think its worth it. Your time would be better spent moving the motor/tranny/tcases back and down. You will already need a new front DS, and if you are adding a doubler (you may already have one???) you will need a new rear ds as well. Plus the difference in COG would be insane with the motor back and down.


That pile of wires you have on the floor is scary!

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'98 Tacoma TRD

......I see a dark sail on the horizon, set under a black cloud that hides the sun....

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post #25 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-07-2013, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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I figured the solution would be either an electric compressor behind the cab (gonna run dual batteries in the rear anyway) or keep the OEM compressor in the stock location and simply run the lines under the cab.

The wiring has been somewhat of a nightmare so luckily I hired the help of a friend with a 5-year degree in electrical engineering and currently jobless.

Probably gonna order an Inchworm crawl box on Friday.

'04 Taco 2.7L engine, tranny, tcase, cab, half a frame. Junk.
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post #26 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-08-2013, 07:07 AM
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relocating the heater n A/C wouldn't be worth the hassle IMO. Careful with that wiring, toyota did some funky stuff that isn't very straight forward. I went thru mine on the 85 and did what you're doing. I still don't have hi-beams or a reverse light, but overall I think it was worth the hassle.

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post #27 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-08-2013, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I've been doing some more research and an electric compressor isn't really feasible. Denso just came out with one but it doesn't appear readily available. Honestly, I'd sooner run with no AC than keep the stock compressor. I can always get some wally world 12v fan if I think I'll be stuck in traffic or something for any length of time haha.

However, another option I thought of was to (at the very least) run 1 (or 2) low profile heating units that you find under the passenger seat in 4runners. A shit-ton less bulk than the main heat/AC/blower unit. Especially if I keep them under the seats.

The Haynes manual isn't worth the paper its printed on in regards to the wiring diagrams. I printed off most of the wiring section from the FSM yesterday and things are starting to make sense. Not gonna be cutting any wires that I'm not sure about though

'04 Taco 2.7L engine, tranny, tcase, cab, half a frame. Junk.
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post #28 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-08-2013, 11:20 AM
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My A/C :


You could look at the Mojave Heaters if you really want to ditch the factory unit: http://www.flex-a-lite.com/mojave-heater-1.html

Personally, I kept the factory heater. It's only taking up space I wouldn't have used anyways. It's easy enough to make up a fuse panel that'll sit in the dash..

Just my

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post #29 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-08-2013, 11:57 AM
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And.. about the wiring charts, first step, burn the haynes manual, it's been wrong for just about everything I've looked up in it.

fork out the couple of $$ for access to TIS and download the diagrams for your specific year. I started of my swap by using wiring diagrams for 2004 while working with a 2002. They were VERY similar, but they switched pin positions and other annoying minor changes. It was good $$ spent in my opinion. Of course, i was dealing with a motor swap and custom harness, but I still think it's worth the $$.

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post #30 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-21-2013, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, the TIS helped. Things are starting to make more sense.

With as lightweight as the heat/AC/blower unit is (didn't realize this until it was out ) it won't matter where it is, I may be able to leave it in the (almost) stock location. I found the brake booster to be too damned huge and the modification to be too complex (and possibly unreliable) to mount under the dash. Anyone know of a smaller booster that I can replace it with and keep it in the stock location?

Some may think it's a bit much, but I wanted an access panel to the back of the engine (to make it easier to bolt/unbolt the tranny more than anything haha) so I moved the engine back 4" as well. not too much where serious modifications have to be made in the cab, but enough to get the axle and upper link where I want it. I may be able to put the heat/AC/blower unit back. Not sure. We'll see I guess haha


'04 Taco 2.7L engine, tranny, tcase, cab, half a frame. Junk.
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