New from Westminster - 85 Runner with 22R Oil leak problem - TTORA Forum
 
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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New from Westminster - 85 Runner with 22R Oil leak problem

Hello from Westminster. Iíve been a member for about a month and am looking forward to wheeling with some of you this summer. I have a stock 85 4Runner that I bought about 6 months ago.

It has been a great truck, but I noticed a problem last night. Oil is all over the left side of the engine. It looks like it is coming out of the valve cover gasket. It was down about 2.5 quarts. It had a small leak when I bought it, but it is much worse now. I am looking for advice on what my next step should be. I have been reading horror stories about blow-by and pressure in the valve cover. I am not sure if I should just replace the valve cover gasket or if it needs a lot of work done. Any ideas would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 08:55 AM
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welcome, you've come to the right place... plenty of 22R experience here. Just not from me

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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 09:04 AM
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Ditto! (right place, but I know nothing about 22R's) - I am going to focus your thread title so hopefully you'll get more responses from those guys.




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How many people do you think it'd take to hold Molly down while we cut off a limb? I'm guessing alot, plus ratchet straps, c-clamps, and other misc tools
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 09:38 AM
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Welcome.

Have you pulled your valve cover off yet? If not, you might as well, just to look at the condition of the seal. They're cheap, just replace it anyway. Also check your two vents on the top of the cover. One should be under vacuum from the intake, and the other should go to the air cleaner on your carburetor, or be filtered directly from the port. Make sure that they are free of blockage. This will keep the pressure inside to a minimum. Also, check out where the hoses are routed to... Covered in oil? Then yeah, you definitely have blow-by.

2.5 quarts is A LOT to just come out of the valve cover. I would suspect you're burning some of it. Unless you have another big leak somewhere. But if you are that may indicate that your rings are bad, which could cause your valve cover gasket to fail from the exhaust pressure that leaks by the rings... You might try a compression test in order to get a better indication of the condition of your motor.

Don't worry, you can get another 22R for dirt cheap... The best part about these trucks is that are super easy to do any mechanical work, the parts are cheap, and they are plenty.

If you need any help, I live nearby in Arvada. I'm pretty booked up this weekend, but could possibly help out next weekend.

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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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I will try to pull the cover off next weekend. I may be burning some oil, but it has a lot of oil on the side of the engine. Not much oil on the driveway at all. I replaced the thermostat with an aftermarket one about a month ago. I did not do my research though, so I did not get the thermostat with the second small hole in it. When I drive the truck the temperature gage will go almost into the red once and then fall to the normal temp. Could the temperature spike have anything to do with this? Should I be driving it in this condition?
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 09:58 AM
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It's an iron block/aluminum head motor ... that kind of temperatue cycling will eventually lead to a head gasket issue. I would get the right thermostat pretty quick!

x2 on Kyle's post about the PCV and valve cover gasket

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 10:09 AM
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Made some edits to my post last minute. Be sure to read again.

1980 Toyota Pickup: CB antenna, custom 2-tone paint, duct tape mod, weight reduction, 29" meats. sway bar and torque bar removed for MAD FLEX.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Quick Draw. I’m a little worried when you mention a compression test. I know the truck has been tested and showed that cylinder #4 was a little low but not sure how long ago that was. Do I need any special tools to do the test?

If you have free time next weekend I would like to get your opinion on the condition of the motor. I have basic tools, but not much experience.
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 10:38 AM
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You could swing by PoorBoyYota's shindig on Sunday. There should be a few folks who know the 22R who can have a gander.

https://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=149026

Yeah we need 6-8 people to help him move his cab but it isn't like we will be using aLL 6-8 THE WHOLE TIME....

I think you can rent the compression tester from Vato Zone or the like...




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85 4 Runner SAS (Tippy II) - All mashed together in 93runner and 85runner Goodness

Get your 4x4 VIDEO pr0n here
Quote:
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How many people do you think it'd take to hold Molly down while we cut off a limb? I'm guessing alot, plus ratchet straps, c-clamps, and other misc tools
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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I will try to stop by. My brother is in from Florida, but if I can talk him into going then you will have 2.
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 11:00 AM
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I'm non sure if you can rent one or not from AutoZone. But I have one, and I would bet Kevin or somebody else has one if you take it to that event on Sunday. Fortunately, it doesn't take long at all on your engine.

Just pull the coil wire, and a cylinder wire. Remove the plug. Then screw the tester in, and crank the engine.

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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 11:57 AM
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 01:20 PM
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I've got one, TheFatKid has a better one. I have had 4 of these motors and know a bit about them. come on by if you want.

First thing to check (if you think it's coming from the valve cover) is...pull the valve cover. it's a rubber gasket that would be easy to tell if it's blown or distorted. When replacing the valve cover a common mistake(one i've made several times) is to over tighten the four capnuts that hold it on. tighten it just enough to sqweeze the rubber but not that the rubber bushings are mashed and mushrooming out.

It could be your timing cover leaking. Did the previous owner do a timing chain on it? Did he/she do it right?

Why is there a ton of oil on the block but not on the driveway? This would indicate that the leak is only under pressure, when the truck is running. Fire it up and have a look-see, if you can see oil dripping or flowing out of a seam/gasket/crack then you've found it.

WASH THAT THING!!!!! don't spray directly on the distributor cap though, they get wet and you have to remove them and dry them out before it will start again.

A clean engine bay is easy to diagnose leaks (do as I say not as I do).

Good luck.

Kevin

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Yea, 2 days later and I still feel like a sack of assholes.
Quote:
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Years from now, when we are dead and gone... the roaches will be driving little Toyotas with 3.4s.
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice Kevin. The previous owner did not change the timing chain. It has 180K on it so I was planning on changing it this summer. The oil on the block is thick and dry, but when I run it I can see new streams of wet oil.

Hopefully I can make it Sunday.
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 06:23 PM
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CHANGE THAT TIMING CHAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!! If it hasn't been done by 170k miles It needs it bad!!!!!! (unless the previous owner is not the only other owner of the truck and didn't know that it's been done) does it clatter? (chain slap). If it's the double row timing chain you should be ok, they didn't stretch as bad as the single's. either way it would be good to do it.

I've got it down to about 2 hours. start to finish.

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Rebuilt 22re, r151, ep9.0, 31's, addicted front bumper
04 Tacoma DC with custom body work
Dreams of owning a fzj80, fj60, fj45 troopy.


Quote:
Originally Posted by thefatkid View Post
Yea, 2 days later and I still feel like a sack of assholes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Leary ExPo
Years from now, when we are dead and gone... the roaches will be driving little Toyotas with 3.4s.
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-21-2010, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poorboyota26 View Post
CHANGE THAT TIMING CHAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!! If it hasn't been done by 170k miles It needs it bad!!!!!! (unless the previous owner is not the only other owner of the truck and didn't know that it's been done) does it clatter? (chain slap). If it's the double row timing chain you should be ok, they didn't stretch as bad as the single's. either way it would be good to do it.

I've got it down to about 2 hours. start to finish.

does that include pulling the head off, and pulling the
pan off to clean out the pieces of chain guide, re-assembling it all, and setting the valves???

Built not bought!!!
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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-21-2010, 05:01 PM
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don't have to pull the head. just the pan a little. the guides were already changed to metal. I had some problems with my setup about a year ago and got to where I could change it out pretty stinking quick.

On 85's it's easier. just pull the pan and front cover and go for it.

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Rebuilt 22re, r151, ep9.0, 31's, addicted front bumper
04 Tacoma DC with custom body work
Dreams of owning a fzj80, fj60, fj45 troopy.


Quote:
Originally Posted by thefatkid View Post
Yea, 2 days later and I still feel like a sack of assholes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Leary ExPo
Years from now, when we are dead and gone... the roaches will be driving little Toyotas with 3.4s.
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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-21-2010, 10:20 PM
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I've got it down to about 2 hours. start to finish.
If I don't 3RZ swap, you should help me with mine.

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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-22-2010, 09:58 AM
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The chain is a must! You dont have to pull the head off but id pull the pan off to get the pieces out and reseal it so you can knock out another leaky area. Dont use the gasket kit use the f.i.p.g. from the dealer. Id say the valve cover gasket is the easiest and cheapest thing to do on the 22re i think its like $3 at the parts store and takes about 5 minutes. Grab purple power in a spray bottle, Go to the car wash and hose the motor, and whatever else down and wash up the motor before you dig in to it...Makes it a much cleaner job and will help you find the leaks.


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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-22-2010, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the advice. Fast7mtoys and I will be replacing the timing chain in the next few weeks. I'm looking forward to having a healthy truck and wheeling with you guys this summer.
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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-07-2010, 10:13 AM
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this runner is super clean!!! head gasket issue taken care of, new chain and steel guide, new front cover, new rad, this thing will be good to go another 100k

Built not bought!!!
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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-07-2010, 11:19 AM
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NICE!!!

looks like 3 birds one stone, kinda job. how was the timing cover? was the chain about to go through into the water pump area?

86 runner
Rebuilt 22re, r151, ep9.0, 31's, addicted front bumper
04 Tacoma DC with custom body work
Dreams of owning a fzj80, fj60, fj45 troopy.


Quote:
Originally Posted by thefatkid View Post
Yea, 2 days later and I still feel like a sack of assholes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Leary ExPo
Years from now, when we are dead and gone... the roaches will be driving little Toyotas with 3.4s.
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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-08-2010, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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The chain was cutting into the timing cover. I think we got it just in time. Thanks to fast7mtoys for a job well done.
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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-09-2010, 08:55 AM
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thanks to mikey @ western machine for the turnaround on the head work

Built not bought!!!
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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-09-2010, 03:13 PM
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Nice!

86 runner
Rebuilt 22re, r151, ep9.0, 31's, addicted front bumper
04 Tacoma DC with custom body work
Dreams of owning a fzj80, fj60, fj45 troopy.


Quote:
Originally Posted by thefatkid View Post
Yea, 2 days later and I still feel like a sack of assholes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Leary ExPo
Years from now, when we are dead and gone... the roaches will be driving little Toyotas with 3.4s.
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