Looks good Matt!
Sorry i missed your previous posts.
I'll fill in for future reference though.
Ben, pretty close. But as stated, everyone uses different techniques.
Me, personally, as a person who does prep work for PRODUCTION purposes (get the car in, out, and back to the customer ASAP) I do it differently.
As you might imagine, finer grits do not cut as fast, thus they're more time consuming to get the same final result. As is going back and mixing more primer once you've found out you didn't originally get enough down. I personally load up the primer, starting with 1 wet but smooth even coat over just the areas that have had mud work done on them. From there I continue heavy, even coats 1" out from the previous until I am about 6" out from each side of the original coat. I do this, waiting for flash time (about 3-5 minutes between each coat on a decently warm day) then doing the next coat.
Note, you must sand the areas around where the mud is with at LEAST 320. I personally go about 3" out with 180 on a DA, then out about another 3" from that with 320. Paint does not stick to shiny shit. It's that simple, anything that still has a shine to the paint will not adhere properly. If primer gets sprayed over shiny paint, it will create a HUGE mess in the future.
Before the primer has dried at all I guide coat it to make sure there are no blatantly obvious imperfections in the mud work that need to be fixed. After the primer has dried I block with 120g on a 12" block (different blocks will work better in different area's, for different sized spots of primer, they make blocks in 4", 6", 8", 12", 16", 24" and other various sizes up to about 3ft (one hell of a block! lol). Keep in mind, when I start with 120g I know my primer has been caked on, and I have A LOT of room to work before breaking through anywhere. I do a quick blocking (in the X pattern Ben mentioned, as well as straight across the panel front to back) to knock down the orange peel, and smooth of some of the roughness high build primer leaves. I then re-guide coat and block with 180 making sure to not go past where the primer ends so it feathers out nicely. After the 180 step is done, it's time to guide coat (again), and block with 240. 240 is where I spend a little more time, making sure to get everything smoothed up and straight as can be.
I then check it with grease/wax (water works as well) for any waves/ripples that need a little more blocking. If waves/ripples are present in the primer, guide coat again, and block again with 180, then 240. If everything looks smooth/good, then proceed with guide coating again and wet sanding with 400 or 600 (personal preference, I personally use 600) on a 6" rubber block doing the same blocking motions. After it's been blocked out wet, go back over it by hand in circles to finish it off and get any last little imperfections out. DO NOT work one little area with any grit paper, this will create a wave in the primer, which will show up in paint.
A side note, NEVER hard line primer. As in, lay the tape down, flat on the panel, and primer right up to it. For some reason, if you do so, even if you sand it down, you will ALWAYS see that line (unless you take it to bare metal). I've lost my ass on a few jobs because I messed up and did that, then I had to strip the panel and start over. Always back mask, or 'roll' the tape . The easiest trick to back masking is take the paper you're using, lay the tape 1/2 on the paper, 1/2 on the panel. Have the paper covering the area you want to prime. After the tape is laid, fold the paper over away from the area you are going to be priming. This will leave a nice rolled edge, but I still do NOT recommend priming all the way up to that point.