Lockers on an OEM '99 SR5 ? ? ? - TTORA Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2009, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Question Lockers on an OEM '99 SR5 ? ? ?

I read and searched for a thread on this and all I found was one concerning the difference between electric and air actuated lockers. My apologies if it has been covered and I couldn't find it.

I want to install lockers in my OEM axle.

Tacoma, Extra Cab, 2.7L, SR5, 186,000 miles, 3500 on new motor & clutch.
Is this possible?
Lots of tedious work involved? Lots and Lots and Lots of tedious...?
I think toyota sold Tacomas with OEM lockers in 99. True?
If true how would they hold up for light to moderate use?
Can I install ARB?
Detroit?
Electric mechanism? - I'm concerned with reliability
Air actuated? - I'm concerned with air lines being weak and breaking

Suggestions?


Before you suggest it - Yes, I do want Dana's front (SAS needed) and rear but I don't have the financing to do this. So, I'm looking for an alternative.

Tom
I felt like yesterday.
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-1999 Sr5 ext. cab. 2.7L, 3" susp. lift, 2" body lift, 31" Yokos. New motor 8/09.
-1983 Custom Cab restoration project. Finally got one after searching for 6-7 years! 3/10
-1983 Short Bed "Old Yeller". 22r, 31" tires, suspect 3" lift, purchased 11/09, 196,000 miles. LOTS of fun to drive!
-1990 Heep YJ plow vehicle.
-1995 Suzuki Swift. 45MPG!
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2009, 07:23 PM
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a TON of options:

Selectable:
Swap a TRD axle and get an elocker
ARB

Full time, full locker (will require setting up the gears)
Detroit

Full time, "lunchbox" (only have to set the backlash)
QuickLok
Lockrite

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2009, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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Any ideas on cost for all these?
I don't think full time ful locker would be a good option for a daily driver. Too much strain on things.
TRD axle sounds like a good possibility.
Could you explain a little what you mean by lunchbox, backlash?

Tom
I felt like yesterday.
I feel like today.
TomorrowI'll be !

-1999 Sr5 ext. cab. 2.7L, 3" susp. lift, 2" body lift, 31" Yokos. New motor 8/09.
-1983 Custom Cab restoration project. Finally got one after searching for 6-7 years! 3/10
-1983 Short Bed "Old Yeller". 22r, 31" tires, suspect 3" lift, purchased 11/09, 196,000 miles. LOTS of fun to drive!
-1990 Heep YJ plow vehicle.
-1995 Suzuki Swift. 45MPG!
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2009, 08:51 PM
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an arb setup is going to run over a grand. a elocker axle swap is what I did, its just however cheap you can find the axle. a lunchbox usually runs around $300 for parts. then add in the cost of install. but the axleswap option is in my opinion the way to go.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2009, 09:16 PM
ike
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Elocker for the rear would be what i would look for, just find a housing at a yard or on these boards.

arbs are great, but expensive.




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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2009, 09:50 PM
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Tom,

Now that you have these new terms (lunch box, lockrite, aussie, etc) Search on THOSE terms and you'll get a BUNCH more info. Not just on TTORA, but on the internet in general! (Prices too!)




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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2009, 10:23 PM
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http://www.yotatech.com/f31/locker-faq-43572/

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-24-2009, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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thanks I'll be sure to search for terms now that I got internet installed at my house finally.

I went down to Jim's and asked about an e-locker set up. He said he gets them in and they're gone in a day or so. After reading all the advise y'all gave me I think that might be the way for me to go. TRD axle swap. Also, by going that way I can stick to that interior OEM look that I've been trying to maintain.

Tom
I felt like yesterday.
I feel like today.
TomorrowI'll be !

-1999 Sr5 ext. cab. 2.7L, 3" susp. lift, 2" body lift, 31" Yokos. New motor 8/09.
-1983 Custom Cab restoration project. Finally got one after searching for 6-7 years! 3/10
-1983 Short Bed "Old Yeller". 22r, 31" tires, suspect 3" lift, purchased 11/09, 196,000 miles. LOTS of fun to drive!
-1990 Heep YJ plow vehicle.
-1995 Suzuki Swift. 45MPG!
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-24-2009, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tacoma_Tom View Post
Also, by going that way I can stick to that interior OEM look that I've been trying to maintain.

Honestly, i tried this.

Just buy the inchworm harness, you'll save A LOT of hair. A LOT of time, and A LOT of stress.

Another member here and mysefl spent probably 4.5/5 hours tracing wiring diagrams, wires, etc. trying to get the factory switch to work in my regular cab (all tacoma's TRD or non TRD are wired for e-lockers). I had the control box, and all of the wiring, but we could not get it to work....


I ended up buying the inchworm kit. Best $40 I had ever spent.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-27-2009, 06:38 PM
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You can still do the factory switch even with the Inchworm harness. The switch is just a DPDT switch. So test the continuity of it to figure out the contact pattern. Then just wire it up the same way as you would the switch you would have to source for the Inchworm kit anyway.

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-27-2009, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00regcab View Post
Honestly, i tried this.

Just buy the inchworm harness, you'll save A LOT of hair. A LOT of time, and A LOT of stress.

Another member here and mysefl spent probably 4.5/5 hours tracing wiring diagrams, wires, etc. trying to get the factory switch to work in my regular cab (all tacoma's TRD or non TRD are wired for e-lockers). I had the control box, and all of the wiring, but we could not get it to work....


I ended up buying the inchworm kit. Best $40 I had ever spent.
not true. mine does not have that computer. that was the main reason I went with the inchworm harness.
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