replacing diff studs with bolts - TTORA Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-07-2011, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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replacing diff studs with bolts

There's a semi-common mod to replace the diff studs with bolts (running them in from the inside of the housing with red locktite). This eliminates the problems of the studs coming out when removing the outside bolts. I know this isn't a huge problem, but since I'm screwing around with the diffs, I figure I might as well replace them.

I know the 8" and e-locker housings take a M8x1.25 bolt, and I picked up button heads for that (I'm putting an TRD elocker third in my 85 front housing).

But I found that the 8.4 (aka non-trd) housing uses M10x1.25 studs. Fastenal doesn't even carry those (with a button head) in their online catalog. Can anyone think of a reason why plain ol hex head bolts won't work or are a bad idea?

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-07-2011, 10:05 AM
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I cannot answer your question but I believe ACE Hardware should carry what you seek.....well at least the one way down South in Highlands Ranch does.

Edit: I know the Rover guys use a hex head bolt and tack to the inside of the diff when doing the Toy conversions so I don't see why it wouldn't work in your case.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-07-2011, 10:24 AM
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Addicted Offroad sells a kit I believe for what you are talking about.

Differential Stud Eliminator Kit
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-07-2011, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by onsafari View Post
I cannot answer your question but I believe ACE Hardware should carry what you seek.....well at least the one way down South in Highlands Ranch does.

Edit: I know the Rover guys use a hex head bolt and tack to the inside of the diff when doing the Toy conversions so I don't see why it wouldn't work in your case.
I should have specified that I searched Ace, Fastenal and Jax (Loveland store has a really good selection by the way). Both Jax and Ace use the Serv-a-lite supplier. Most places have M10 button head in a coarse thread, I'm specifically looking for fine thread. This is just one of those odd size/thread pitch combo's that nobody seems to carry in a button head.

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Addicted Offroad sells a kit I believe for what you are talking about.

Differential Stud Eliminator Kit
Why would I buy a kit that consists of nuts/bolts and some RTV ? But thanks for the link, I did call Scotty and that kit is the M8 x 1.25 (fine) thread. The 8.4 housing uses M10 x 1.25 (fine) thread. That's the key.


I picked up some good ol hex heads and will throw them in and see if they have any clearance issues (I can't think of why there would be any).

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-07-2011, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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Well, hex heads won't work because they won't fit up against the "lip" of the housing along the top/bottom (the M10 bolts have a 17mm head head that's just too big).

I did finally find what I'm looking for with a plain socket head (uses allen wrench, but not a button head) it's just in a 12.9 grade flavor, not the 10.9 (metric equivalent to grade 8) I was searching on.

https://www.fastenal.com/web/product...u=35759&ucst=t

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-27-2011, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
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Well, hex heads won't work because they won't fit up against the "lip" of the housing along the top/bottom (the M10 bolts have a 17mm head head that's just too big).

I did finally find what I'm looking for with a plain socket head (uses allen wrench, but not a button head) it's just in a 12.9 grade flavor, not the 10.9 (metric equivalent to grade 8) I was searching on.

https://www.fastenal.com/web/product...u=35759&ucst=t
That type head utilizes a larger allen wrench which will not round out as easily. (button heads use a smaller allen)
Can you get them in a plated instead of black iron. (black iron will rust quickly)

I would go to AAA Metric http://www.aaametric.com/ They should have what you need. Good pricing too.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-27-2011, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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Ha... this has been done for a few months now. I went with the black oxide (thinking that it was more corrosion resistant or something) and now realize you are right .

Thanks for the tip tho.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-27-2011, 12:00 PM
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Ha... this has been done for a few months now. I went with the black oxide (thinking that it was more corrosion resistant or something) and now realize you are right .

Thanks for the tip tho.
I guess if I looked at your last post date I would have had a clue.
I've been kinda busy and just logged back on since December.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 09:45 PM
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That is the route that I went went replacing the studs on my front and rear diffs in my 85. I used grade 8 8mm/1.25 bolts and they seem to be holding up well. It just seemed more cost effective than a 30 dollar kit.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-26-2011, 11:47 AM
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what length bolts did you go with?

i have to take mine back off because it seems to be leaking. figured it would be a good time to try this
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-26-2011, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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40mm is the perfect length. If they are any longer, you'll have issues getting them in past the flange on the inside. Going shorter and you won't have enough threads for the nut.

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-26-2011, 03:16 PM
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thanks, just put them in with an order from mcmaster that i had going.
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