Lets talk about welding - TTORA Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-30-2007, 06:28 AM Thread Starter
Veteran Member
 
vwfastg60's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Firestone,Longmont, FoCo
Posts: 4,770
Send a message via AIM to vwfastg60
Lets talk about welding

So tonight we built that truss for the Idler arm and i was really exited to weld it. I have never been told whats right and wrong and kinda learned it on my own by doing the widebody on my corrado. It was a 110 mig no gas. Well i got a gas set up for my welder and Bart has been welding all kinds of stuff and i havent used it. Dont get me wrong im not bitching cause from what i can see of the welds they are clean. He did the Idler arm truss and it looks good. Kirk jumped in tonight and told me he would weld the bar and he lives in north dever so my choices were drive the truck down there to have him weld 2 plates on or fill another bottle and do it.

I thought i would just lay some beads on a piece of 1/8inch scrap. First i didnt know where to set the regulator and guessed. I played with it and got it right as far as i can tell but what do i know. I threw down 2 beads and went to town with the hammer. Nothing broke off or moved. I compared it to barts beads and mine were built up more but the marking on his was directly under the bead and not all that visable. Mine on the other hand were visible and the markings went out about 1/8inch. I started welding things to the scrap and just pounding on it and couldnt get a piece to brake off with my BFH.

Im going to snap some pics later today to show you guys and see what you say but what i wanna know is what makes a strong weld. I always have been told a good weld looks like you knocked over a stack of quarters. Mine really doesnt look that great its flat and you cant really see the strokes as well. Just looking at it id say my welds went deeper but were not as tight as Barts but it looked ok.

Post pics if you can for an example of what your sayin and remember im new to this and dont know all the welder talk i hear everyone sayin.

87 Dlx Longbed mall crawler
93 c3500 lowerthanstockdually
10 jaguar xf- about to be forsale
04 760li on 22's- soon to be forsale
02 Vette to show the world I'm compensating-forsale
vwfastg60 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-30-2007, 06:50 AM Thread Starter
Veteran Member
 
vwfastg60's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Firestone,Longmont, FoCo
Posts: 4,770
Send a message via AIM to vwfastg60
I snapped a pic of each weld This was barts warm up weld before the truss. The ones on the truss look better IMO. He has a really clean orginized weld and it looks the same all the way down.. But this is what i was going off of cause it was visable.
Its the farthest to the left(not the little dot but the short bead) its a short weld but you can see what im looking at.


The other was me trying to figure out what i was doing and forgetting the gas works lol.

heres what i got once i got the gas on and was welding pieces to pound on.


I felt like it was pretty good but if its not feel free to correct me cause i want to learn and wont be offended it if im not doing it right.

87 Dlx Longbed mall crawler
93 c3500 lowerthanstockdually
10 jaguar xf- about to be forsale
04 760li on 22's- soon to be forsale
02 Vette to show the world I'm compensating-forsale
vwfastg60 is offline  
post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-30-2007, 08:29 AM
Veteran Member
 
HoT_DoGgIN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: West Chester, Ohio
Posts: 553
Send a message via AIM to HoT_DoGgIN
Doesn't look half bad from what I can tell!

Only thing that confuses me is the bits of oxidation that appear between each "quarter" if you will... I've never seen that -- Maybe someone will chime in and throw some ideas out.

Did you cool it with water and let it sit?

1998 Toyota Tacoma 2.7L 4wd Xtra Cab
~K&N FIPK Gen II Cold Air Intake
~3" Cornfed Suspension Lift
~Marlin Crawler Heavy Duty Clutch
~Chevy Tow Hook Mod
~Hella FF75 Lights & Custom Bumper Brackets
~Firestone Destination M/T's
~Lit Holiday Wreath/Grille Mod with Bow!! (xmas season)
~Wolo EC Challenger dual trumpet Air Horn -
HoT_DoGgIN is offline  
 
post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-30-2007, 09:16 AM
Veteran Member
 
Volcom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Pueblo, Colorado
Posts: 1,500
First and foremost, I'm not a professional welder Take my opinion with a grain of salt if you would like

I'd say turn up the voltage. The technique looks good but it needs more heat. See the discolored heat marks on the metal. Those should be farther away from the metal, especially on 1/8 stock. The welds look built up too much. With higher heat, those welds would penetrate the two pieces you're welding better.

Here's a couple of my welds on my hydro assist bracket. The tubing is 1/8 wall and the tabs are 3/16. The bracket where the hydro ram attaches is 1/4.


(Forget the one booger tack weld on the left ring )

There isn't much weld sticking up. Also, after I welded it, the heat marks were 1/2 up that 2" tab (3/16" thick) and well over an inch away on the tube.

Here's a side shot of the same bracket. You can also see the weld holding on the 1/4" thick bracket on the back.


These weld were done with a 220 Miller. I personally like to weld hot. One a 110 machine, turn up and try welding some scrap.
Volcom is offline  
post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-30-2007, 09:19 AM
Veteran Member
 
Volcom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Pueblo, Colorado
Posts: 1,500
Quote:
Originally Posted by HoT_DoGgIN View Post
Doesn't look half bad from what I can tell!

Only thing that confuses me is the bits of oxidation that appear between each "quarter" if you will... I've never seen that -- Maybe someone will chime in and throw some ideas out.

Did you cool it with water and let it sit?
My welds do that as well. I believe it's the coating on the outside of the wire, not oxidation.
Volcom is offline  
post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-30-2007, 12:22 PM
Veteran Member
 
RedRunnertc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 15,034
I agree with Volcom's assesment, but it's hard to tell from pictures. IMHO, the best way to determine if you had sufficient penetration is to look at the backside.

Did you bevel the piece you welded on at all? That will help too...

Former President - CO Chapter
Founding President - OH Chapter

'93 4Runner lockers, armor, tcases, & stuff

'14 Cadillac CTS VSport

Check out pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action
RedRunnertc is offline  
post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-30-2007, 01:08 PM
Veteran Member
 
Volcom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Pueblo, Colorado
Posts: 1,500
I started my 4Runner project with a Hobart 135 on gas (110 machine). Then my dad bought over his new Miller (220) and I can't believe how much better my welds are with the 220 over the 110. I learned with the 110, always keep the voltage turned up. Like TC said, if can, bevel your welding edges (very key with thicker stuff like 3/16 and 1/4).

The best thing you can do though is practice and keep welding
Volcom is offline  
post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-30-2007, 08:05 PM
Senior Member
 
GodyillaTaco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Under A Rock N Krawlardo
Posts: 416
vw there are really three types of welds:

1st is the drag forward, stopping and go back into the puddle the forward and repeat.

2nd is the circle weld were you work in a circular pattern as you go down the seam without stopping i.e. going away from the puddle and circling around going back in and then back out.

3rd is working in a C-type pattern down the length of the weld

The 3rd weld is your strongest weld ( 2nd would be your 2nd strongest) because it doesn't involve contaminating the weld by going back into the already made puddle. As said above you need to bring your power level up as high as the metals will allow without burning through. if I have time tomorrow I will show you what I mean by the types of welds.

I hope this will help

"Nothing In all the world is more dangerous then sincere ingnorance and conscientious stupidity."- Dr. Martin Luther Jr. 1963 "

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lysmachia View Post
No we like swearing and bsing about taint poking and flesh-light whore offs!
GodyillaTaco is offline  
post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-01-2007, 01:11 PM
Veteran Member
 
RedRunnertc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 15,034
There was a section on Xtreme4x4 where they demonstrated the three types.

Former President - CO Chapter
Founding President - OH Chapter

'93 4Runner lockers, armor, tcases, & stuff

'14 Cadillac CTS VSport

Check out pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action
RedRunnertc is offline  
post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-01-2007, 05:01 PM
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Underway
Posts: 849
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by vwfastg60 View Post
I snapped a pic of each weld
not to shabby, looks good but lots of splatter. -dirty material?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Volcom View Post
Like TC said, if can, bevel your welding edges (very key with thicker stuff like 3/16 and 1/4).
Frankly in my opinion those 110 Welders are only good for thinner sheet metal not any kind of bar stock. For you heavier stuff I'd look at a 220v mig or stick machine. I like Miller the best.
ziggy428 is offline  
post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-01-2007, 09:19 PM
Senior Member
 
jarboarder1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Boulder
Posts: 287
Im new at welding also and have been practicing a lot.

Here is a lot of info and instruction on welding.
http://www.esabna.com/us/en/educatio...university.cfm
jarboarder1 is offline  
post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-02-2007, 03:05 AM Thread Starter
Veteran Member
 
vwfastg60's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Firestone,Longmont, FoCo
Posts: 4,770
Send a message via AIM to vwfastg60
Quote:
Originally Posted by ziggy428 View Post
not to shabby, looks good but lots of splatter. -dirty material?


Frankly in my opinion those 110 Welders are only good for thinner sheet metal not any kind of bar stock. For you heavier stuff I'd look at a 220v mig or stick machine. I like Miller the best.
The splatter is from me not having the gas right or off all together. It was scrap so yeah it has some surface rust in spots and had been on the garage floor all night in the oil and nasty crap. I just wiped it off and went to town.

I have a miller 110 with gas so i dont plan on doing anything more then 1/8 with it.

87 Dlx Longbed mall crawler
93 c3500 lowerthanstockdually
10 jaguar xf- about to be forsale
04 760li on 22's- soon to be forsale
02 Vette to show the world I'm compensating-forsale
vwfastg60 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the TTORA Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Axle is on hold.....lets talk Soft topper vwfastg60 Mods & Cheap Tricks 8 08-15-2007 12:33 AM
Lets talk about 05+ brakes.. Bmiller7 Newbie Tech 21 07-08-2007 04:22 PM
Lets talk about jacks.. Bmiller7 PreRunner Tech 11 05-22-2007 09:28 PM
lets talk bourbon ... spacewrangler Off Topic 24 11-22-2005 03:49 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome