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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-31-2009, 03:24 AM Thread Starter
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Machine Shops in West Valley?

Hi,

The 22R in my 86 pickup I've owned since 1993 has had a burned exhaust valve in #2 for many years. Now the head gasket has sprung a leak, so no more procrastinating.

The engine has only 116K miles, but 23 years and lots of short trips.

I'm not a mechanic, have never done any engine work like this before, and am a bit intimidated at taking this task on, especially when my driveway will be the workshop. But, I'll get through it somehow and learn in the process.

At a minimum I need a working head. I don't know what to do. Put on a used, but functional head, have mine redone, or go new? And what about the bottom? If money wasn't so tight I'd be inclined to spring for a new street/RV head from engnbldr with his 268 cam and rebuild the bottom end.

If I go with a new head and leave the bottom alone, I won't need to use a machine shop, but for other options I will. I've spent a lot of time searching and haven't been able to find recommendations for machine shops in the west valley. Any recommendations or warnings?

I'm in Glendale.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-01-2009, 08:56 AM
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H and H machine shop. 6880 West Orangewood. Glendale. Used them myself for my newer motor I built for my 4Runner 22RE. Head surface, valve job, new seals. Crankshaft, cut from .010 to .020 over. Block, clean, bore to .030 over. Everything looked brand spanking new when I picked it all up a few days later. $290. This was 5 years ago. Motor with EB rebuild kit still running flawless.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-01-2009, 09:08 AM
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Phoenix cylinder head did a couple for me...... good work.

they are off Grand and about 51st ave I think?

Sy
85 Syota, 6.0/700r4/203/300/60's/Detroits/37 PBRR's/§XX§
02 Cummins tow rig, a few goodies
High Country Renegades
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-01-2009, 11:54 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks.

After seeing a thread here where someone had good luck with an engine from Auto Spec, I'm considering going that route. Decisions...

While on the general topic, do you have any suggestions for a local shop to rebuild my transmission? It's a G52. Just looking for someone who knows what he's doing and cares enough to do a good job.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by flyingbrass View Post
Thanks.

After seeing a thread here where someone had good luck with an engine from Auto Spec, I'm considering going that route. Decisions...

While on the general topic, do you have any suggestions for a local shop to rebuild my transmission? It's a G52. Just looking for someone who knows what he's doing and cares enough to do a good job.
I wouldn't go to AutoSpec for anything other than to burn that place down, just saying

02 TuRD with a shiny new frame & 82 Pickup that collects dust
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by flyingbrass View Post
Thanks.

After seeing a thread here where someone had good luck with an engine from Auto Spec, I'm considering going that route. Decisions...

While on the general topic, do you have any suggestions for a local shop to rebuild my transmission? It's a G52. Just looking for someone who knows what he's doing and cares enough to do a good job.
They have had a few customer service issues recently. I'll let the experienced speak but the consensus around here is going to say don't go there.

finally done, what a pain in the ass!

https://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63249
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingbrass View Post
Thanks.

After seeing a thread here where someone had good luck with an engine from Auto Spec, I'm considering going that route. Decisions...

While on the general topic, do you have any suggestions for a local shop to rebuild my transmission? It's a G52. Just looking for someone who knows what he's doing and cares enough to do a good job.
Without going into all of the minutia of my dealings with autospec, I would recommend passing. Basically the quality of the parts used are what one would call, "not too fuckin' good." I understand that visually all looks well, but the owners seem to use some bait and switch tactics. This has been my personal experience.

FWIW, if you are willing to travel a bit, I am using Johnny Rackley's in Mesa. Being in the machining business myself, I spoke at length with several automotive machine shops in town, these are the guys I chose to do all the machining on my 22RE rebuild. I'm doing the assembly myself.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-03-2009, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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My financial situation sucks, and I'm mostly on foot until my truck is resuscitated. The combination makes cheap, quick solutions tempting. Autospec seems to have the cheap part down but falls flat otherwise.

After giving it more thought, and since I intend to keep this vehicle and depend on it for many more miles, doing a full rebuild myself makes the most sense. It's poor timing, but I'll have to bite the bullet. Gambling on only doing the head or throwing in a cheapy used or rebuilt motor as a stopgap would only cost me more in the long run.

A friend might be able to round up a cherry picker, else I'll look for one on craigslist. I'll probably buy most parts from engnbldr, though I've read of some concerns about the consistency of his bearings. Any opinions about that?

Azrain, Rackley's sounds like a great shop, but I'd feel bad asking anyone to haul my stuff so far.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-03-2009, 08:32 AM
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A friend might be able to round up a cherry picker, else I'll look for one on craigslist. I'll probably buy most parts from engnbldr, though I've read of some concerns about the consistency of his bearings. Any opinions about that?
I have a cherry picker you can use. Gotta get to Surprise to pick it up. PM me if interested. All EB parts in my motor I (re)built 5 years ago. Still humming along awesome.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-03-2009, 09:07 AM
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I'll probably buy most parts from engnbldr, though I've read of some concerns about the consistency of his bearings. Any opinions about that?

Azrain, Rackley's sounds like a great shop, but I'd feel bad asking anyone to haul my stuff so far.
Kept this in my pocket until I had a chance to inspect all of the rebuild components, but I have finished my inspections and here it is: www.partsdinosaur.com The guy is local and ONLY does business via the 'net and email. After receiving all of the parts for a full engine rebuild and meticulously inspecting everything (because I can) I can say that the parts are first quality aftermarket.

Now, until you tear it down, you don't KNOW what you need. Maybe you only need a re-ring and bearing. Maybe you need extensive machining and replacement head, etc. but until you inspect the parts, you really don't know. Get a copy of the FSM (available online, search the main board) and tear it down. Label EVERYTHING, take pictures of EVERYTHING during the process. As long as you keep a "road map" it's not that hard. Don't buy a hoist, surely someone (and there it is while I am typing this reply) has one you can borrow or go rent one. What are you going to do with a hoist in your garage if this is your only planned need for it?

Yeah, Rackley's is a pretty decent shop, but until you know what machining needs to be performed, you don't know your options.

Take all this with a grain of salt, I'm in the middle of the longest stock 22RE engine rebuild in history.
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-09-2009, 01:31 PM
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Kept this in my pocket until I had a chance to inspect all of the rebuild components, but I have finished my inspections and here it is: www.partsdinosaur.com The guy is local and ONLY does business via the 'net and email.
x2 on parts dinosaur.

Guys name is Bruce Roller, good parts from the same manufacturers that the oem uses.

I've got 40k miles on a 22re that I built from his parts.

Ugly '85
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-09-2009, 01:49 PM
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x3

My old pickup was done with PartsDinosaur.
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-17-2009, 02:55 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the pointers to partsdinosaur.

Staceman, I appreciate your offer. Might even take you up on it if other options don't pan out.

>Don't buy a hoist, surely someone (and there it is while I am typing this reply) has one you can borrow or go rent one. What are you going to do with a hoist in your garage if this is your only planned need for it?

My reasoning behind buying a used hoist for a fair price (~$100) is I could keep it as long as required and then sell it when I'm through for what I paid. End cost would be less than renting for even a single day.

As for borrowing from someone, I'd have to impose on both the lender and a hauler 4 times. Borrow to pull, return, then later borrow to install, and return again.

My neighbor loaned me an engine stand for as long as I need it, so that's covered.

I hope to get started on this project soon and have no intention of competing for the title of longest rebuild. I have a FSM and will label everything and take plenty of pictures along the way.
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-17-2009, 07:49 AM
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As for borrowing from someone, I'd have to impose on both the lender and a hauler 4 times. Borrow to pull, return, then later borrow to install, and return again.
Borrow mine as long as you need it. Shouldn't be more than a month, right?
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-28-2009, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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To follow up, I borrowed a hoist from Stace. He even tossed me some parts in case I need something extra. Great guy. Thanks again, Stace.
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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-28-2009, 08:50 PM
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i wouldn't go to autospec for anything other than to burn that place down, just saying
x1000000

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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 09-28-2009, 10:03 PM
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FYI, the actual machine shop that did the work on my block is:

S&S Machine Shop
20 N Rogers
Mesa, AZ 85201-7014
(480) 464-9385‎

I had a question on the block, Rackley's only did (and does) the head. The rest they farmed out to S&S. I'm very happy with the quality by both shops.
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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-28-2010, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Update

6 months to the day from when we started pulling the engine, I fired her up. That was this past Thursday. So far, so good, but I only have about 35 miles on it so far.

I still don't know very much, but I learned a lot along the way. The next build/rebuild (probably in the distant future) should go a lot smoother now that I have more of a clue. I tried to document most problems, questions I had/have and some advice gathered along the way in my thread at Yotatech.
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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-28-2010, 09:53 PM
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congrats on getting your rig running again. after a few hundred miles I'd reccomend rehcecking your valve clearances as well as head bolt torque.
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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-29-2010, 07:42 AM
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Yep, and change the oil at 100 & 500 then on the normal PMS.
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post #21 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-02-2010, 01:36 PM
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Yep, and change the oil at 100 & 500 then on the normal PMS.
100 seems a bit much, but I agree with the 500 and then regular maintenance.
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post #22 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-02-2010, 01:56 PM
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100 seems a bit much, but i agree with the 500 and then regular maintenance.
x2
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post #23 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys.

I changed the oil after running the cam in for about 10 minutes and doing a 5 mile run of hard accelerating and decelerating. Curious as usual, I cut the filter open. No chunks, metal slivers or anything else scary.

I rechecked head bolt torque the next morning, and all but 1 or 2 turned. Some a surprising amount. And that was after pretty much following Engnbldr's sequence of tightening and loosening the bolts to work them into the threads when I put them in. He says recheck after the first run and at 500 miles. I'm using his 10.9 grade head bolts torqued to 64 ft/lbs. Had to send the first batch back for exchange because several weren't straight.

So far, so good, though I'm still waiting for something major to go wrong. It passed emissions with only about 50 miles on the engine, though it is running slightly rich. I plan to rebuild the carb soon -- another intimidating project.
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