"Taco Box" T-case Shifter Relocation - Page 8 - TTORA Forum
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post #211 of 235 (permalink) Old 05-09-2013, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Blackdawg View Post
Wow man i love the triple stick setup. How much did that set you back?? think he would make another one??
Thanks! Rory sells his triple stick setups for $250 a piece. I gave him a list of the mods I had to make on his prototype, so I'm hoping it is all hammered out. Basically, I widened and shortened the lever arms for better ergonomics and looks.

Give him a call and tell him you saw my truck online. I'm sure he will make something for you; and you'll probably get a price break to boot!
http://www.radesignsproducts.com/Wha...xt_______.html


EDIT:
Here's a pic of what I was talking about. At this point, the sticks are already bent. I shortened the base to make them all equal in height after this:


'96 3.4L, 5Speed, Toytec 16" coilovers with Tundra Bilstein 5100s, Light Racing UCAs, Alcan Orbit Eye Leafs with 12" Bilstein 7100 short Bodies, ARB rear locker, 33x12.5 Duratracs, CBI sliders, Bushwacker fender flares, self made front bumper, M8000, Vision X 6.7" lights with Morimoto HIDs, full skids, Inchworm dual case setup - 15 clocking

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Last edited by Lumpskie; 05-09-2013 at 09:13 AM. Reason: Added a pic
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post #212 of 235 (permalink) Old 05-09-2013, 10:48 AM
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sweet man thanks.

i could be PMing you in the future about some stuff. Looking to add a crawl box to my 96 next i think.
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post #213 of 235 (permalink) Old 05-09-2013, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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No Problem, man. I think it was one of the best decisions I've made on my rig.

'96 3.4L, 5Speed, Toytec 16" coilovers with Tundra Bilstein 5100s, Light Racing UCAs, Alcan Orbit Eye Leafs with 12" Bilstein 7100 short Bodies, ARB rear locker, 33x12.5 Duratracs, CBI sliders, Bushwacker fender flares, self made front bumper, M8000, Vision X 6.7" lights with Morimoto HIDs, full skids, Inchworm dual case setup - 15 clocking

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post #214 of 235 (permalink) Old 08-22-2013, 05:16 PM
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I wonder if that triple shifter would work on an auto-console..

I just picked up a gear drive case for next to nothing so I am looking at adapters, does not look like Marlin sells his rear adapter by itself anymore on their site (or I am blind) and the TG kit does not allow clocking so I may be calling Inchworm in a few days.

Was wondering if any of you guys run this to keep the gear oil out of the cab.

http://inchwormgear.com/collections/...d-shifter-base

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post #215 of 235 (permalink) Old 08-22-2013, 05:21 PM
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I wonder if that triple shifter would work on an auto-console..

I just picked up a gear drive case for next to nothing so I am looking at adapters, does not look like Marlin sells his rear adapter by itself anymore on their site (or I am blind) and the TG kit does not allow clocking so I may be calling Inchworm in a few days.

Was wondering if any of you guys run this to keep the gear oil out of the cab.

http://inchwormgear.com/collections/...d-shifter-base
I have Jim's shifter plate (actually, originally from FROR) on my Inchworm crawler...never leaked. I have yet to see anything that would fit the OE Taco case. That said...Marlin's shifter sleeve in the OE tcase has solved the oil leak I had from there.
both adapters are available separately. I think Inchworm does most of the machining for both their's and Marlin's so either one will work.

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post #216 of 235 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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VegasKurt:

I run the RADesigns plate for my stock case, but I do run that Inchworm base on my gear driven case. I haven't had a leak out of my system yet. (other than out of my breather when I overfilled it back when I originally installed it)

'96 3.4L, 5Speed, Toytec 16" coilovers with Tundra Bilstein 5100s, Light Racing UCAs, Alcan Orbit Eye Leafs with 12" Bilstein 7100 short Bodies, ARB rear locker, 33x12.5 Duratracs, CBI sliders, Bushwacker fender flares, self made front bumper, M8000, Vision X 6.7" lights with Morimoto HIDs, full skids, Inchworm dual case setup - 15 clocking

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post #217 of 235 (permalink) Old 11-05-2013, 09:33 AM
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Hey guys...It's been a while since I've been on here but still nice to see the same ole folks talking trucks.

Anyhow, I've noticed my inchworm box getting kinda hot during highway driving. Any idea what is too hot? When should I start worrying?

Also, back to leaky shifter when hot. (thought I fixed this but it's back) I haven't checked the breather on the crawl box yet to see if it's clogged, but curious if it's wise to drill and tap in a breather on shifter plate.

Any suggestions would be great - Thanks guys.

2004 V6 Taco XCab TRD SR5 5-Speed
Dakar w/ D43XL add-a-leaf & Billies 5125 - 2.0" Sway A Way RaceRunners - LR UCA's - Skid Row Front Skid & Homemade Belly Pans - Homemade Sliders - Homemade Bed Rack - All-Pro Rear Bumper - Wheelers Steelies - 33's - Inchworm Crawl Box
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post #218 of 235 (permalink) Old 11-05-2013, 10:41 AM
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Are your windows open when it gets hot?

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That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.
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post #219 of 235 (permalink) Old 11-05-2013, 11:29 AM
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Are your windows open when it gets hot?
Umm...sometimes. But what the hell does that have to do with anything?

2004 V6 Taco XCab TRD SR5 5-Speed
Dakar w/ D43XL add-a-leaf & Billies 5125 - 2.0" Sway A Way RaceRunners - LR UCA's - Skid Row Front Skid & Homemade Belly Pans - Homemade Sliders - Homemade Bed Rack - All-Pro Rear Bumper - Wheelers Steelies - 33's - Inchworm Crawl Box
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post #220 of 235 (permalink) Old 11-05-2013, 12:13 PM
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Hey guys...It's been a while since I've been on here but still nice to see the same ole folks talking trucks.

Anyhow, I've noticed my inchworm box getting kinda hot during highway driving. Any idea what is too hot? When should I start worrying?

Also, back to leaky shifter when hot. (thought I fixed this but it's back) I haven't checked the breather on the crawl box yet to see if it's clogged, but curious if it's wise to drill and tap in a breather on shifter plate.

Any suggestions would be great - Thanks guys.
if you have a leak a the shifter you might as well pull it and drill/tap for a breather fitting. then run the hose up into the engine bay...mine is up near the master cyl. drill/tap your hole on the Dr side of the plate...NOT the pass

as for heat...hard to know how hot is 'hot' w/o a temp reading. get one of those cheap lazer temp readers from HF...under $10 and post a temp. I think mine runs in the 160* range on long summer drives.

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Yeah, well, I'm just glad I snagged a few Spector cans before EPA converted them to Sphincters
Quote:
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Lube may be your best friend (depending on location).
'00 Excab Tacoma, 2.7, 5sp with a Bunch-o-mods
Inchworm Rock Walkin' Gear
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post #221 of 235 (permalink) Old 11-05-2013, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by hytenor View Post
if you have a leak a the shifter you might as well pull it and drill/tap for a breather fitting. then run the hose up into the engine bay...mine is up near the master cyl. drill/tap your hole on the Dr side of the plate...NOT the pass

as for heat...hard to know how hot is 'hot' w/o a temp reading. get one of those cheap lazer temp readers from HF...under $10 and post a temp. I think mine runs in the 160* range on long summer drives.
Well, i got a breather on the case itself with hose running to engine bay. Why the hell isn't that doing the trick? And why driver side not pass of shifter?...I've read this is the proper place somewhere before, I'm curious.

It prolly won't overheat until summer now. Winter is setting in here and it seems to run cool at cooler temps. But I'll keep and eye on it.

2004 V6 Taco XCab TRD SR5 5-Speed
Dakar w/ D43XL add-a-leaf & Billies 5125 - 2.0" Sway A Way RaceRunners - LR UCA's - Skid Row Front Skid & Homemade Belly Pans - Homemade Sliders - Homemade Bed Rack - All-Pro Rear Bumper - Wheelers Steelies - 33's - Inchworm Crawl Box
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post #222 of 235 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 01:25 AM
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Well, i got a breather on the case itself with hose running to engine bay. Why the hell isn't that doing the trick? And why driver side not pass of shifter?...I've read this is the proper place somewhere before, I'm curious.

It prolly won't overheat until summer now. Winter is setting in here and it seems to run cool at cooler temps. But I'll keep and eye on it.
if your case is clocked you must move the breather to the dr side...if not clocked then no, don't need to.

how much oil are you putting in your crawler? 1Qt is the limit unless you have a newer Marlin with passage into the tranny dead space.

also, if your leak is coming from the shift ball and not the top plate you need to replace the shifter seat (marlin part). I just did that on my tcase...easy fix.

Quote:
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Yeah, well, I'm just glad I snagged a few Spector cans before EPA converted them to Sphincters
Quote:
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Lube may be your best friend (depending on location).
'00 Excab Tacoma, 2.7, 5sp with a Bunch-o-mods
Inchworm Rock Walkin' Gear
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post #223 of 235 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 06:13 AM
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Umm...sometimes. But what the hell does that have to do with anything?
Because if the area aroubd your shifter isnt sealed up tight the cooling air gets sucked up ibto the cabin and doesnt exit out the rear of the vehicle. I thought it was bs too until i was on a roadtrip and my crawl box was insane hot and smelt like gear lube, i shut the windows and it noticably cooled down. Plus you can feel it in the cabin. Other than that im with hytenor, get a temp reading.

2002 Ext cab TRD v-6, crawler and lots of dents.
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post #224 of 235 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 10:35 AM
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if your case is clocked you must move the breather to the dr side...if not clocked then no, don't need to.

how much oil are you putting in your crawler? 1Qt is the limit unless you have a newer Marlin with passage into the tranny dead space.

also, if your leak is coming from the shift ball and not the top plate you need to replace the shifter seat (marlin part). I just did that on my tcase...easy fix.
I'm running inchworm...Not clocked. Don't remember the exact amount but oil level is good. I'm not sure if it's spewing out of shifter ball or between shifter plate and case. Need to inspect it further. Just no time right now. Spending all my free time working on dad's 51 chevy

Quote:
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Because if the area aroubd your shifter isnt sealed up tight the cooling air gets sucked up ibto the cabin and doesnt exit out the rear of the vehicle. I thought it was bs too until i was on a roadtrip and my crawl box was insane hot and smelt like gear lube, i shut the windows and it noticably cooled down. Plus you can feel it in the cabin. Other than that im with hytenor, get a temp reading.
That's quite strange but...it does make sense, actually.

2004 V6 Taco XCab TRD SR5 5-Speed
Dakar w/ D43XL add-a-leaf & Billies 5125 - 2.0" Sway A Way RaceRunners - LR UCA's - Skid Row Front Skid & Homemade Belly Pans - Homemade Sliders - Homemade Bed Rack - All-Pro Rear Bumper - Wheelers Steelies - 33's - Inchworm Crawl Box
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post #225 of 235 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 11:20 AM
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I'm running inchworm...Not clocked. Don't remember the exact amount but oil level is good. I'm not sure if it's spewing out of shifter ball or between shifter plate and case. Need to inspect it further. Just no time right now. Spending all my free time working on dad's 51 chevy



That's quite strange but...it does make sense, actually.
If it's coming from the shifter ball, it is possible to leak there if you don't have an "oil slinger," It's a metal plate that goes between the shifter and the case.

This happened on my "sealed" unit from inchworm. When driving, gear oil is flug everywhere inside the box. The gear oil probably gets flung right into the bottom of the shifter as well. No breather? It will puke out the shifter when the pressure builds. If you have a breather, it can still seep through the shifter over time, but not as quickly as it would if there was no breather.

I cut mine out of sheet metal. Took about 5 minutes to do and stopped the leak up there...


Also, I too noticed that the cases run MUCH hotter if the floor is not sealed up. About 3 years ago, I had to drive 100 miles with the floorboard open, and I could barely touch the shifter it got so hot. With the floor sealed up, it runs cool.

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post #226 of 235 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 12:14 PM
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^^^ Yup, i had to build a temporary tunnel for mine to fit the triple sticks (almost 2 yrs old now, so much for temporary) and i sealed it up with duct tape. Gotta keep it ghetto and whitetrash, but it worked until my triple stick boot recntly ripped. Now I can see the road through it but as long as i keep the windows up its fine. Also keep in mind these boxes tend to run a bit hot, mine always did until i did the lefty conversion with the mc07 that shares fluid with the tcase, more fluid and surface area to disperse the heat. Another thing that would help keep it cool was thin synthetic fluid, dont run that dino shit unless its for break in only.

Not to freak you out, but my crawl box got extreamly hot right before the input fretted and stripped out. I actually asked a question about it the day before it let go on the street (hytenor gave me the same response BTW ). Drain the fluid and see whats going on in there, if it looks red/rusty or has a bunch of metal chips in it, it may be time to tear it down.

2002 Ext cab TRD v-6, crawler and lots of dents.
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post #227 of 235 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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Because if the area aroubd your shifter isnt sealed up tight the cooling air gets sucked up ibto the cabin and doesnt exit out the rear of the vehicle. I thought it was bs too until i was on a roadtrip and my crawl box was insane hot and smelt like gear lube, i shut the windows and it noticably cooled down. Plus you can feel it in the cabin. Other than that im with hytenor, get a temp reading.
My setup does blow "some" hot air when the windows are open as well. When cut an re-made my trans tunnel, I left some room for my triple stick and hot air gets sucked up from there.




I ended up putting some "insulation" (think rags) under my boot surround and that took care of it. As for "too hot" the air was warm enough that it bothered me when I wore shorts in summer. I don't know if that helps...

'96 3.4L, 5Speed, Toytec 16" coilovers with Tundra Bilstein 5100s, Light Racing UCAs, Alcan Orbit Eye Leafs with 12" Bilstein 7100 short Bodies, ARB rear locker, 33x12.5 Duratracs, CBI sliders, Bushwacker fender flares, self made front bumper, M8000, Vision X 6.7" lights with Morimoto HIDs, full skids, Inchworm dual case setup - 15 clocking

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post #228 of 235 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 01:29 PM
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I'm gonna have to open up shifter console and take er for a spin to really pinpoint it, I haven't been driving the truck more than just across town too much lately.

But will this: http://www.marlincrawler.com/hardwar...re/oil-slinger

fit this: http://www.inchwormgear.com/collecti...-stick-shifter

2004 V6 Taco XCab TRD SR5 5-Speed
Dakar w/ D43XL add-a-leaf & Billies 5125 - 2.0" Sway A Way RaceRunners - LR UCA's - Skid Row Front Skid & Homemade Belly Pans - Homemade Sliders - Homemade Bed Rack - All-Pro Rear Bumper - Wheelers Steelies - 33's - Inchworm Crawl Box
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post #229 of 235 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 03:10 PM
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I'm gonna have to open up shifter console and take er for a spin to really pinpoint it, I haven't been driving the truck more than just across town too much lately.

But will this: http://www.marlincrawler.com/hardwar...re/oil-slinger

fit this: http://www.inchwormgear.com/collecti...-stick-shifter
Call inchworm and ask, Josh will most likely answer the phone, good dude very helpful! Inchworm also sells marlins stuff, so you can just order it if it works, or they may have a solution as well.

Lumpski, that looks like mine, except a little cleaner infront of the shifter. I have the problem sealing this thing as i have to pull the shifter off to service the tcase/crawler oil and fill it via the shifter hole. So evrey 6months i have to take it apart (im very paranoid about changing oil on this setup, and thats how i check the "health" of the unit).

2002 Ext cab TRD v-6, crawler and lots of dents.
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post #230 of 235 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DudeMan View Post
I'm gonna have to open up shifter console and take er for a spin to really pinpoint it, I haven't been driving the truck more than just across town too much lately.

But will this: http://www.marlincrawler.com/hardwar...re/oil-slinger

fit this: http://www.inchwormgear.com/collecti...-stick-shifter
Yes

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post #231 of 235 (permalink) Old 11-08-2013, 12:44 PM
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I'm running inchworm...Not clocked. Don't remember the exact amount but oil level is good. I'm not sure if it's spewing out of shifter ball or between shifter plate and case. Need to inspect it further. Just no time right now. Spending all my free time working on dad's 51 chevy



That's quite strange but...it does make sense, actually.
I'd bet the shift ball
get these:
http://www.marlincrawler.com/transmi...ver-ball-seats

replacing the seat on my tcase shifter stopped the leak I had this summer.

replace all your shifter seats at the same time as well s the plastic sockets
https://www.ttora.com/forum/showpost....&postcount=311

Quote:
Originally Posted by Teryx View Post
Yeah, well, I'm just glad I snagged a few Spector cans before EPA converted them to Sphincters
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tacoma Jake View Post
Lube may be your best friend (depending on location).
'00 Excab Tacoma, 2.7, 5sp with a Bunch-o-mods
Inchworm Rock Walkin' Gear
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post #232 of 235 (permalink) Old 11-11-2013, 06:57 AM
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Thanks folks. I'll be placing an order here shortly. Prolly get the seats and a slinger.

2004 V6 Taco XCab TRD SR5 5-Speed
Dakar w/ D43XL add-a-leaf & Billies 5125 - 2.0" Sway A Way RaceRunners - LR UCA's - Skid Row Front Skid & Homemade Belly Pans - Homemade Sliders - Homemade Bed Rack - All-Pro Rear Bumper - Wheelers Steelies - 33's - Inchworm Crawl Box
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post #233 of 235 (permalink) Old 08-10-2018, 02:33 PM
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Talking finally going to do a crawler..... :) only took me 14 years LOL

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Here's what I did:

















I have since straightened the Tacoma T-case shift handle (the left one) and replaced the Marlin knob with another Tacoma Electronic shift knob/button with another shift boot. The left button controls 2/4WD and I use the right button for ARB compressor. No cupholders were lost in the process and with the two shifters side by side, looking as about OE install as possible.

I have a Marlin 'Taco Supreme' with 4.7 gearset, rotated 15. I'm very happy with the 'extra' lower gear- I say extra because I have 2.56, 4.7 and 12.3, vs a stock setup having 2.28, 2.56 (basically the same) and 5.84. Depends on what you want from the box, and what terrain you wheel on.

Oh yeah, I have less than $30 into the shift linkage. I spent some $$ on the shift knob/boot from Toyota, but still am WAY under what some of those sealed shifters cost.




Mark.... if Marlin will pick up his phone, i am going to get a MC09

later,
Dean
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post #234 of 235 (permalink) Old 08-10-2018, 11:19 PM
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Mark.... if Marlin will pick up his phone, i am going to get a MC09
and, provided they have it in stock

'bout damn time, LOL

Quote:
Originally Posted by Teryx View Post
Yeah, well, I'm just glad I snagged a few Spector cans before EPA converted them to Sphincters
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tacoma Jake View Post
Lube may be your best friend (depending on location).
'00 Excab Tacoma, 2.7, 5sp with a Bunch-o-mods
Inchworm Rock Walkin' Gear
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post #235 of 235 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 12:57 AM
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Just ordered a Marlin box for my j shift 5 speed and was wondering if there's a way to get the install as clean as OP's. I won't have triple sticks though.
EDIT
I guess I will have to have triple sticks to make this work. Nevermind

Last edited by ThunderOne; 04-03-2019 at 09:12 AM.
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