Shorted out alternator main wire! - TTORA Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-20-2017, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Shorted out alternator main wire!

I know, I know - DISCONNECT THE BATTERY ANYTIME you're messing with ANYTHING electric!! That said, and my failure to do so when I pulled my stock alternator out of my '01 Taco, the main wire hit the block (or something metallic) and 'popped'. I disco'd the battery & installed the new alternator but when I went to start the truck - NOTHING! No power to dash, no power to clutch start cancel, no power to ignition, no blinkers - but the head & tail lights work! What did I fry? It was a real quick zap but obviously that's all it takes. And no, I don't have nor know how to use a multimeter. Truck is stone dead until I can fix it. All fuses removed & visually inspected & all good...please help me even though I pulled an idiot maneuver! Thanks!
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-20-2017, 04:56 PM
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You need to check the large fusible links. They are 80 or 100 amp and bolt into the electrical box.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-21-2017, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks - checked 'em, visually anyway - even spent two more hours taking apart the damn fuse box in hopes there was something hidden UNDER the fuse board - nothing. My buddy suggested I zapped the ECU - possible?
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-21-2017, 11:05 AM
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You really need to get a multimeter to test your fuses. A ground short doesn't really back feed voltage to the ECU. That would only be if you reversed the battery terminals. So I suspect your main ALT fuse in the distribution block is blown. Visual test isn't a reliable test. So pull the battery + lead, then use a multimeter continuity tester to check the ALT fuse.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-21-2017, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by owhatafeeling7 View Post
Thanks - checked 'em, visually anyway - even spent two more hours taking apart the damn fuse box in hopes there was something hidden UNDER the fuse board - nothing. My buddy suggested I zapped the ECU - possible?
The ECU has nothing to do with all the other systems that won't turn on. Did you try another battery? Maybe that was the weak link and it has shorted out...

Ugly '85
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-21-2017, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Hi. I haven't swapped out the battery, but I know it's strong AND the headlights & tail lights fire right up nice & bright - this sucks as this truck is literally my right arm & I don't have the ability to but another one. 😕
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by owhatafeeling7 View Post
Hi. I haven't swapped out the battery, but I know it's strong AND the headlights & tail lights fire right up nice & bright - this sucks as this truck is literally my right arm & I don't have the ability to but another one. 😕
Ok. So at this point you need to get a multimeter from sears or harbor freight and start testing stuff.

Get actual battery voltage, then check from battery to starter main lug and alternator main lug.

Post some pictures of the fuse box in the engine compartment and we can help direct what to test with the multimeter.

Otherwise not much we can do for you.

Ugly '85
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, once again thanks for the reply. That's not a possibility at this point - I was hoping it was something obvious that could be readily ID'd & then I could pull it & replace it. Testing this & that will have to be done at a later date. Damn.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Question: is there any sort of 'fusable link' in any of the wiring going to the alternator that may have acted like a fuse and 'blown' before any surge could get back to any major part or even the fusebox?
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by owhatafeeling7 View Post
Question: is there any sort of 'fusable link' in any of the wiring going to the alternator that may have acted like a fuse and 'blown' before any surge could get back to any major part or even the fusebox?
Yeah, but you said you checked all the fuses. This is what the alternator fuse looks like on my 2002 tacoma: The 120Amp one.




Here is the rest of the box.




This box should be just behind your battery I think. Take a picture of it with the cover off and post it.

Ugly '85
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by owhatafeeling7 View Post
I know, I know - DISCONNECT THE BATTERY ANYTIME you're messing with ANYTHING electric!! That said, and my failure to do so when I pulled my stock alternator out of my '01 Taco, the main wire hit the block (or something metallic) and 'popped'. I disco'd the battery & installed the new alternator but when I went to start the truck - NOTHING! No power to dash, no power to clutch start cancel, no power to ignition, no blinkers - but the head & tail lights work! What did I fry? It was a real quick zap but obviously that's all it takes. And no, I don't have nor know how to use a multimeter. Truck is stone dead until I can fix it. All fuses removed & visually inspected & all good...please help me even though I pulled an idiot maneuver! Thanks!
Your Tacoma, is it V6 or 4 cylinder? Like others said, check fuses.

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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2.7l 4 cyl. And yes, the white fuse is my 120 amp alternator fuse, which I accessed via disassembling pictures box - all fuses are good, or certainly APPEAR so - I pulled every single small one out of BOTH boxes (the one under the dash inside plus the under hood one) and none blown. This really really sucks, as this is a very good running truck with a perfect (replaced) frame and good body - I hate the thought that this stupid incident is the death knell but I simply cannot afford to have it towed to some electrical specialist, who will charge me to the moon & back, for his "labour", never mind what actually is wrong. One simple zap & poof! Done! I'll pay a guy to come to my house & test all the circuits - anyone?
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