Second up is my CBI Heavy Duty Sliders.
Posted on December 26, 2006
edit: Adding this hyperlink from TTORA member Crazy Geologist. He has compiled a list of great information and manufacturers.
So before you deciede on sliders, check out his thread.
TTORA - Slider information - click here
Cost at that time $500 for the box, bed rail and bed bar.
Well after waiting for my sliders from CBI, who by the way ROCKS!
, they arrived via DHL, who by the way SUCKS!
, arrived 4 days late and to the WRONG ADDRESS!!!!!!
It was sent to a home to the same sub-division, but 2-blocks away!
Well after dragging it home, I will plan to install it tomorrow or the next day.
From the photo you can see how LLLOOONNNGGG she is. These sliders are way wider than my Z3!!!
When I unwrapped the sliders, I thought for a second to see if I could mount them onto my Z3, unfortunately, as you can see the length of the sliders would hit my tires, plus the height of the sliders is greater than the ground clearance of my Z3. My Z3's ground clearance is a stagering 3-inchs max. Oh well, guess I will have to mount them onto my truck as planned.
9/16" drill bit
12-mm socket head or wrench
11/16-inch and 5/8-inch socket heads & rachet
11/16-inch and 5/8-inch open-end wrenchs
Long Stem Straight Screw Driver
Two adjustable car stands
The installation was done completely by myself. The amount of time it took was 4.5-hours. It would have been slightly easier if I had an extra set of hands, but it really is not totally necessary. THE ASSEMBLY STEPS SHOWN BELOW ARE FOR THE DRIVER SIDE ONLY and the underside was almost free of mud & debris.
Steve verified that the current angle of the sliders and Clamp-ons would fit the 2001 Double Cabs with no changes other than the overall length.
I also had Steve paint the sliders the color black that you see here.
Step 1) Unwrap the sliders and NOTE the locations of the Nuts, bolts and spacers. The bolts and spacers for the FRONT of the sliders are LONGER than any other. The reason for this is that the frame's box section near the transmission cross beam is wider than the sections as it goes towards the rear. Also take note of a seperately baged of self taping screws and TWO short spacers. The screws will be used to anchor the sliders to the frame and the two short spacers are used to help prevent the brake line and emergency brake line from kinking.
Step 2) Unscrew the bolts for the brake lines and emergency brake cable. The reason for this is to allow the slider's Clamp-on's to slide between the frame section and the brake lines and e-brake cable.
Step 3) Using the screw driver, you will need to dismount a the brake lines from a plastic holder, that is on the frame.
Step 4) Using a floor jack, place the slider (mid-way) Clamp-on section at the head of the jack (I should not need to tell you to make sure you know which way is front and rear for the sliders - - right?). One thing, when mounting these, place the forward most Clamp-on behind the transmission brace. Butt it up to the weld joint - as close as possible.
Step 5) Slowly position the floor jack and slider under the truck and start pumping.
Step 6) As the slider gets near the frame, stop and visually see if you need to reposition any of the Clamp-on sections, so it cups the frame as shown in the photo.
Step 7) Once all of the slider Clamp-on sections is engaged onto the frame, pump so that the slider goes up another 1-2 inches and stop.
Step 8) This time you need to use the screw driver to help pull the brake lines away from the frame, so that the slider's Clamp-on will slide between the tubing and the frame. I suggest that if you are doing this install by yourself, pump the jack a few times and then visually inspect to ensure the brake tubing and any other item is properly positioned.
Step 9) Once you have fully pushed the sliders all the way into the Clamp-on, release the floor jack, so the head will drop a couple inches below the Clamp-on. Move the floor jack over and take one of the car stands and position it under the Clamp-on that the floor jack was at.
Step 10) Take the floor jack and position it at one of the far ends of the slider's Clamp-on. The reason for this is to help "walk" the slider onto the frame and allow the Clamp-on to bottom out onto the frame. You might need to use your arms or your foot to help ease it in.
Step 11) Continue this on the oppersite side and then place two car stands to keep the sliders up in position.
Step 12) Take the floor jack and go to one end of the slider, and apply pressure onto the Clamp-on. From here you need to now modify Four of the spacer tubes, to make it easier to slide the bolts through the set of holes on the sliders. The reason for this is that the frame's height on my truck varied and this variance caused a mis-alignment of the bolt holes, when I was trying to bolt the unit on. This only happened on the two middle Clamp-ons, for both sides, the rears and fronts were fine. Below is how I did the modification of the spacers.
Step 13) Find a hard edge, maybe a concrete edge of the driveway (which I used) or some other very hard surface say a table vice clamp.
Step 14) Take the hammer and a bolt and spacer and place the spacer all the way to the head of the bolt.
Step 15) Using the hammer, start pounding from the head side of the bolt (see the RED "V"). This will cause the spacer to deform around the bolt. Because the bolt's threads do not go all the way to the head, the threads will not be damaged, unless you miss!
Step 16) Do this ONLY ON ONE EDGE of the spacer. Continue the pounding until the end of the spacer. The spacer should look OVAL like this when you are completed.
Step 17) Now it is time to install the nuts, washers, bolts and spacers. Starting at the same location as your floor jack, partially slide the nut with the washer through the first flange of the Clamp-on. Then you will need to take the spacer and thread the bolt through it and then the other Clamp-on flange (view the diagram).
Step 18) Before threading on the nut, I used some BLUE LOCKTITE, to have another level of insurance that the Nut will not back off, during one of my wheeling trips.
Step 19) Continue this same to the other mating bolt, washer, nut and spacer on the same Clamp-on.
Step 20) Once completed, lower your floor jack and go to the next Clamp-on and raise the floor jack to apply pressure to the bottom of the Clamp-on.
Step 21) Repeat the same bolting of the Clamp-on. Do this for the remaining Clamp-ons for the slider.
Step 22) Once completed, the next step is to drill and install the self-tapping screw. I took and positioned the floor jack at the middle of the slider and raised the truck a couple inches and positioned floor jacks at the ends of the slider, but NOT on the actual Clamp-ons. This is to give you some easier access to drill the hole underneath.
Step 23) First using a High Speed Steel drill bit of 9/16-inch, using the hole provided at the BOTTOM of the Clamp-on, I drilled a hole.
Step 24) Take the self-tapping screw and engage it into the hole and then remove it.
Step 25) Take the BLUE LOCKTITE adhesive and apply to the threads of the screw and re-install and bolt it down tight.
Step 26) Repeat this process for the remaining Clamp-on sections.
Step 27) Now it is time to finish the job by reattaching the brake line and e-brake holders to the frame. Using the spacers provided place them BETWEEN the bracket and the frame.
Step 28) One thing that I found was on the forward most brake line, even with the spacer installed, the brake line was rubbing against the end of the bolt. The brake line bracket started out as a right angle bracket, but I bent it to 135 degrees as shown.
Step 29) Also you will find, at least for my truck, that the brake lines that were removed from the Plastic Holders will not snap back into the proper locations as before. This is OKAY. Now that the HARD side is completed, the passenger side is way easier, because there were nothing to remove or modify from the truck.
Step 30) Once completed, check all bolts and allow the LOCKTITE to cure over night and then go out and wheel that SUCKA!
CBI Install on TejasYOTA
My thanks to Steve at CBI for making a quality product and painting the sucka!
One last note, I did add some grip tape on the outter runners so that I can climb around on the sliders when they are wet.