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post #1 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-16-2010, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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1976 Dana 44 RS HP

A friend from school has a 1976 Dana 44 RS (i'm unsure of HP) front axle out of a F-150, He claims its a full size axle, so that being, 68" WMS? It has coils and it is Open Knuckle, I also believe it has radius arms. I don't beleive its flat top knuckle... I absoluetly need flat top knuckles right? (for the high steer) so.. essentially I would have to run the Chevy or full size Jeep knuckle out, but if I use a 1976-1992 Ford F-150 hub, rotor, and inner wheel bearing seal. (Except the 1987-early 1988 Fords with the weird flange mount hub). The manual lockout is the same part for both?

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post #2 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-16-2010, 03:17 PM
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I think you need chevy stuff from the knuckle out. Also you need to check that axle and see if it has cast on or welded on wedges. Welded is what you want cast is not. The cast wedges cannot be cut off as the axle tube does not extend all the way through the casting. Also might want to double check that axle width I don't think anything came in that width(not that it really matters i'm just OCD like that). And it will be a high pinion axle.

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post #3 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 11:32 AM
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this is the exact same axle im building up for my 06 taco. i believe mine is 66"....cant remember exactly.

Reid chevy flat tops: $465 shipped
Ballistic Hi steer arms: $213 shipped
Superior 30 spline outers: $350 pr
Superior inners: $400
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post #4 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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I think you need chevy stuff from the knuckle out. Also you need to check that axle and see if it has cast on or welded on wedges. Welded is what you want cast is not. The cast wedges cannot be cut off as the axle tube does not extend all the way through the casting. Also might want to double check that axle width I don't think anything came in that width(not that it really matters i'm just OCD like that). And it will be a high pinion axle.
I'll have to take a look, or ask the kid who has the axle before I buy it... Can i still use the axle if it has cast wedges? Thanks.

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this is the exact same axle im building up for my 06 taco. i believe mine is 66"....cant remember exactly.

Reid chevy flat tops: $465 shipped
Ballistic Hi steer arms: $213 shipped
Superior 30 spline outers: $350 pr
Superior inners: $400
Polyperformance flanges: $275

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I'm sure I will, thanks for the prices and information. Does your axle have cast or welded wedges?

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post #5 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 05:58 AM
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welded wedges.....dont buy it if they're cast. you'll be able to see where the weld holds it on the front and backside since the left/right portions of it wont be welded. post a pic if you cant tell.

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post #6 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 08:41 AM
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only ways you can use cast wedges is if you retube or use radius arms.

I have never seen the Chevy lockouts, so not sure if they are the same.

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post #7 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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only ways you can use cast wedges is if you retube or use radius arms.

I have never seen the Chevy lockouts, so not sure if they are the same.
Well... it has radius arms, so if it were cast i'd have to go with that route instead of doing what? I'm really concentrated on this axle since its so cheap, and i've called NUMEROUS junkyards around my area and no1 carries axles or any vehicles this old... which is stupid, but whatever.

According to..http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Dana44_2.htm Suggested Axles for a 44RS swap while keeping stock Ford disk brakes: F100 & F150 1976 and 77. If you are looking for a 44RS to swap into your 4x4 I suggest a 1976-77 model with disk brakes. This is a strong axle and can be shortened if needed because of the easily removable cast coil mounts. To shorten an axle simply grind off the cast coil mounts and see the links below

You say chevy lockouts, but can't I still use the Ford lockouts?.. I think i can use the 1/2 Super-cab from knuckles out, which i might do. I'd like to stay all ford parts, but if I can't than it doesn't matter to me.

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post #8 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 10:13 AM
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I have a cast wedge 44 but i am running 42" radius arms. I am also running a ford 9" out back.

So i went with the stronger Ford knuckels that have the 4 bolt high steer arms and kept the 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern.

Check warn part numbers on lock outs, that should tell you if the ford and chevy lockouts are the same.

A lot of people, in fact damn near everyone on this board will say that radius arms suck. But they just dont understand. My truck runs with the best of them. I have tons of flex up front and my 9" is bullet proof compared to the toy axles.

If the one you are looking at has cast wedges. as said you will need to run a radius arm set up or you will need to completely retube the axle. Retubing will cost some cash so... it may not be worth getting the cheap axle.


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post #9 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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Well I have the matching Ford 9" Rear from the same truck that I am buying.

EDIT: I talked to the guy and he said they are welded on wedges, I just wasn't explaining myself correctly to him.

Thanks!

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post #10 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 01:48 PM
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run chevy knuckles, hi steer, with a Chevy 9.92" 30-spline stub axle (Superior) and drive flanges....it'll be a strong SOB. R&P will be the weak link however

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post #11 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-19-2010, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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I found these on Ebay, just browsing around at crap, and its a set of 4340 Chromoly front axle kit, for 720$ backed by Alloy USA 10 yr warranty. Can't go wrng with a 10yr warranty can ya?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Alloy...Q5fAccessories

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post #12 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-20-2010, 08:50 AM
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I found these on Ebay, just browsing around at crap, and its a set of 4340 Chromoly front axle kit, for 720$ backed by Alloy USA 10 yr warranty. Can't go wrng with a 10yr warranty can ya?
I have Alloy USA Chromo shafts in my Waggy D44. The left front U-Joint exploded under stress, bending the yokes on both the inner and outer shafts. I should have replaced the U-Joints they came with, with something stronger, ala CTM, Longfield, etc. Something stronger than a 'standard', yet strong, U-Joint. They did honor their warranty (I purchased through Summit Racing for less than that E-Bay Ad), and it took three MONTHS to get the replacements (hold-up was Alloy USA, not Summit). It's a good thing the serious part of my wheeling season was already over with, and also that I had, and installed a spare setup in the meanwhile. Oh, and when the U-Joint went, it took out BOTH Warn Premium lock-out hubs. I now have a receipt, and can warranty those as well if this happens again.

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post #13 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-20-2010, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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I have Alloy USA Chromo shafts in my Waggy D44. The left front U-Joint exploded under stress, bending the yokes on both the inner and outer shafts. I should have replaced the U-Joints they came with, with something stronger, ala CTM, Longfield, etc. Something stronger than a 'standard', yet strong, U-Joint. They did honor their warranty (I purchased through Summit Racing for less than that E-Bay Ad), and it took three MONTHS to get the replacements (hold-up was Alloy USA, not Summit). It's a good thing the serious part of my wheeling season was already over with, and also that I had, and installed a spare setup in the meanwhile. Oh, and when the U-Joint went, it took out BOTH Warn Premium lock-out hubs. I now have a receipt, and can warranty those as well if this happens again.
Well thanks for the info. Maybe I'll look into getting a different U-joint, instead of using Alloy USA's, and then just buying axles from them, or a different company. Still have lots of to do, so I have some time to think, but I don't want to wait for ever.

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post #14 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-20-2010, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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Superior Axles has 2 kits, left, and right side for 515$ ?

http://www.superioraxlegear.com/xrefsearch_result.php

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post #15 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-20-2010, 06:12 PM
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my inners ran me $400/pr from Polyperformance and my stubs were $175 each. ill keep my stock inners for spares in a pinch and order another stub when the axle is done just in case. i highly doubt the superiors will ever break.

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post #16 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-20-2010, 07:49 PM
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Well thanks for the info. Maybe I'll look into getting a different U-joint, instead of using Alloy USA's, and then just buying axles from them, or a different company. Still have lots of to do, so I have some time to think, but I don't want to wait for ever.
Exactly what I'm doing. A lot of folks like the Alloy USA shafts, and replace the U-Joints with stronger offerings. Just giving the heads up; I knew better and gambled that the U-Joint failure wouldn't take out both shafts, it did; they eventually replaced them, and when I put the Longfield 300M joints in, I'll call it good.

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post #17 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-21-2010, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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What would you guys recommend for the Ford 9" for axles? Superior has a set I think for 225$.

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post #18 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 08:48 AM
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Im running yukons.

I got all my stuff from randys.

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post #19 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 01:27 PM
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kinda just depends on what you have the cash for. i hate having to buy things 2x, even if it seems more expensive up front. i have yet to hear anything bad about Superior shafts, but if its 4340 or 4130 chromoly youre probably ok.

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post #20 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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I talked to a guy named Joe at Superior Axle & Gear, and he said EVERY front axle they make is 4340 chromoly, but he said not all of their axles are made in the USA... Some, called the discovery series have a 10 year warrant, but are imported. He said their axles that are made in the USA are lifetime warranty, as long as you use their full circle C clips, and their dana spicer U-joints, but he said you can use better U-joints, such as ballistic, longfield, ect. He mentioned that their u-joints are damn good, but not the best, and they have had problems in the past with them.

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post #21 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 03:28 PM
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foote axle makes all of Superiors axles. when i couldnt get a 30 spline stub from Superior thru Polyperformance i called Spyntec because i remembered they run them in their axle packages. its stamped Superior LOL. their splines are also rolled, so it makes them stronger. i think after companies started making the 4130 chromoly's some started doing the 4340.

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post #22 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Well the guy I was talking to he said that the axles are all 19 splines, how much of a difference will this make?

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post #23 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 05:07 PM
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Well the guy I was talking to he said that the axles are all 19 splines, how much of a difference will this make?
Stock, the outer axle shafts are 19 spline and the inner axle shafts are 30 spline. However, some have upgraded the outers to 30 spline. Difference is availability. 30 spline outers are aftermarket and would be hard to get from a local store or from someone else carrying spares. 19 splines are a lot easier to get.

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post #24 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 06:05 AM
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in a 19 spline axle the splines are "deeper" into the stock since there are fewer of them around the diameter. in a 30 spline axle they are not as deep, but more of them. this increases the thickness of the shaft as a whole and makes it stronger (more material)

they will be easier to get and are more available, but you will likely break a 19 spline more often, so it stands to reason that you'd need spares. the way i figure it.....(this is my opinion), is that if i run a 30 spline set that costs me $350 and carry 1 spare for $175 it totals $525. if i run 19 spline and break 1 shaft every year ive eaten thru what ive saved in about a wheeling season or 2.

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post #25 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 09:15 AM
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in a 19 spline axle the splines are "deeper" into the stock since there are fewer of them around the diameter. in a 30 spline axle they are not as deep, but more of them. this increases the thickness of the shaft as a whole and makes it stronger (more material)

they will be easier to get and are more available, but you will likely break a 19 spline more often, so it stands to reason that you'd need spares. the way i figure it.....(this is my opinion), is that if i run a 30 spline set that costs me $350 and carry 1 spare for $175 it totals $525. if i run 19 spline and break 1 shaft every year ive eaten thru what ive saved in about a wheeling season or 2.
...and will have broken a few ring & pinions in the process.

I carry a complete (inner & outer) spare for each side & a stub w/U-Joint spares-yes, 19 spline stubs. I can fix all that on the trail. R&P, not so much.

I broke the one axle, that was my fault, and just like IFS w/CV's-once you know what NOT to do....


Now if I wasn't already invested in chromo shafts, you'd bet that I'd be buying the RCV birfields for D44 (and yes they are 30 spline stubs).

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post #26 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 11:15 AM
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yes, the R&P will be the weak link on my setup. im going to have it cryo'd so maybe that will help a tad. im taking all my tools to repair that if i can limp off of the trail. if i had a more aggressive wheeling style id be worried a little more

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post #27 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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Well I'm going to regear to 5.38, since I'll be running 37's that is the proper gear right? I don't plan of HARDCORE wheeling, more or less semi-tough trails, alot of snow, and mud.

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post #28 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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These are the welded wedges right?





I think these knuckles are flat top?








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post #29 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 06:13 PM
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Damn that thing looks nasty, Nope those are not flat top knuckles, and that axle has so much crap on it I can't tell if those are welded or cast, the knuckles are no big deal they can easily be replaced with flat tops take a wire brush and some solvent to those wedges and see what they are.

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post #30 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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just means more money since they aren't flat top.. lol, I will get around to the wedges eventually, but the guy who I bought them from said they are welded. The axle has been sitting in the guys garage for 10 yrs so thats why they look nasty, it will be all good looking after a nice cleaning

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