Richard's 89 Turbo Runner -The Creep- - Page 4 - TTORA Forum
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post #91 of 111 (permalink) Old 05-14-2014, 11:11 AM
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You get it figured out cool buildup
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post #92 of 111 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, metalline. Not yet, been trying to get my hands on the steel. but most likely going that route. Just been super busy trying to finish up my Thesis.

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post #93 of 111 (permalink) Old 07-01-2014, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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Defended my Thesis last Friday, and was a success. Met up with a large group and went wheeling on saturday, ended up snapping the driver side axle shaft.

A huge hole formed right before this upward slope rock face such that it is now undercut. The buggy in front of me rolled trying to make it. I ended up dropping my rear tire right in the hole and it bound up instantly and snapped. Winched the rest of my way out. Luckily last two obstacles of the trail. Overall good day of wheeling, fun be out again.






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post #94 of 111 (permalink) Old 07-13-2014, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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Got some work done on the runner this weekend. Had picked up two axle shafts my buddy had as spares for his taco, but they ended up being too long. Guess the 8.4in and 8in e-locker have different axle shafts? So minor set back there.

Anyways got the whole rear end pulled apart, drained the fluid and checked my gears while I was in there. Everything looks solid, was a clean break so no shrapnel in the diff.

Also, finished up the new drive shaft out of 2.5 sch 40 pipe. Should hold up to some abuse.



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post #95 of 111 (permalink) Old 09-10-2014, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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Got some better beadlocks few weeks ago, they were already all welded up and assembled, just needed some new paint. Look to be from DIYbeadlocks, Bullet style and have the anti-coning pieces. These are by far more heavy duty then my old beadlocks. Should hold up to the abuse better.



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post #96 of 111 (permalink) Old 10-06-2014, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Been wanting to make some roof panels for the back cage that is a bit more permanent. Was thinking aluminum sheet, have to weld tabs on, or maybe custom canvas. Anyone have any suggestions/experience, material type, thickness?

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post #97 of 111 (permalink) Old 11-17-2014, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Ran Tank Trap this past weekend, and tried out the hard section. My door got pretty cozy with a giant boulder, broke the glass and bashed the door pretty good. Cage held up well, but the bend on my main hoop keeps getting me hung up, this is not the first time. Wish I would have kept it closer to the body there, but the idea was it would allow me to push around obstacles. Would like to find a way to fix this problem.

Came up with a few options: main idea is to add tube at the bend to act as slider up to it.
Option 1: Remove doors, Tube the section completely
Option 2: Make half doors to keep look and then add tube
Option 3: Keep doors, cut the main hoop below harness bar and rework it, may be difficult to weld backside
Option 4: Keep doors, do nothing, and live with it
Option 5: Keep doors, add a straight swing out bar from main hoop bend to fender






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post #98 of 111 (permalink) Old 12-08-2014, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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Video of the carnage...

So looking into option 5, picked up a door from junkyard. Researching how to make a swing out cage section and found some tube clevis mounts used for race cages, Just not sure if will hold up to abuse and is kinda $$$ especially when it is going to get beat up. Would like to find a cheaper solution and maybe something easy to replace if... I mean when the bar gets all bent up.

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post #99 of 111 (permalink) Old 02-04-2016, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Been away from the thread for a while. Rig has not changed much, pretty much just wheeling it every chance I get.

Future Plans: I will be sure to document them here.
-Going to be making my own tube doors here pretty soon.
-4.7 tcase gears for the rear case
-Possibly different front shocks. Valving is just not right and too soft.
-Roof Paneling for rear cage

Pictures for interest

ToyJambo 15






Socorro


Snow Wheelin in Los Alamos





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post #100 of 111 (permalink) Old 02-16-2016, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Tube Doors

I have been supporting my friend Kaegan and his local shop Atlas Fabrication. He provides great quality work at an honest price. Be sure to check out his work on facebook: Atlas Fabrication



Began on my tube doors there at his shop. Got the brackets cut out and fitted, and mocked up everything into place. Plan is to tig weld everything. Still playing with ideas of skinning the doors and possibly playing with some dimple dies. Also need to come up with a latch, thinking of a spring loaded pull pin you often see on swing out tire carriers.












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post #101 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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Tube doors are on hold for some other changes.

4.7 Tcase gears showed up and began working on the truck to get those in. Have had a leak at the back of the motor for some time now and decided to pull the Trans to check it out. My first suspicion was valve cover but I have changed it prior. So my thought was rear main. We will get to the bottom of this oil leak.

Trans and tcase out and all cleaned up. There was some build up of oil in the bell housing too thick to be motor oil. Going to reseal front of trans while it is out. Can see oil all over the EGR plate on the back of the motor. So my guess right now is not rear main.

Still need to pull the clutch and inspect rear main. Will inspect EGR area more.







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post #102 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-13-2016, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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More progress, pulled the crawl box apart and sealed it back up. Installed the 4.7 gears in the rear case. I really wanted the Marlin gears but they have been on backorder for some time and was able to grab the TrailGear ones for 20% off so couldn't pass it up. Install went fairly smooth, instructions provided are very detailed and easy to follow. There are some comparison pictures of the new gears vs the old 2.28s. You can really see the difference between the gears.

Replaced the transmissions input shaft seal and output seal. Pulled the clutch and appears to be a slight leak at the rear main, but most prominent is the leak from above. I read that the EGR block plate has two bolt holes that pass through to an oil passage, so pulled it all off and applied some sealant to the bolt threads. Hopefully solve my leak!






















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post #103 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-21-2016, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Have been getting a lot done over the weekends. New rear main seal is in. Dropped the oil pan and resealed it as well. Got everything back together and fluids filled. Pulled it out in the driveway and everything appears to be working, 4.7s and 2.28 crawl box is super low now, final crawl ratio of 223:1. So far no leaks.



On to the next project. NEW SHOCKS
Picked up some shocks from a buddy of mine as he upgraded his race truck #488 Degenerates Racing, Blue '85 Toyota pick-up racing EMC. Pretty cool to have some shocks with race history on them.

Anyways, they are Fox remote reservoir shocks. 14" travel, 2" body, 5/8" shaft and Radflo remote reservoir shocks. 12" travel, 2" body, 7/8" shaft. These shocks were also set up and tuned by 4wheelunderground. I know my 4runner is probably slightly heavier with the exo but it may be close, definitely an upgrade regardless.

Had 14in the rear prior so moved the upper mounts in 2.5in to fit the 12in stroke.




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post #104 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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I plan on putting the Fox 14" shocks up front, but am going to have to redo my shock hoops to allow for longer length. As a result, I am going to plate the frame and move my PS Box forward. Ordered up a PS box plate kit and some APR Knuckle studs. One of my driver side studs has been stripped for some time so ended up getting another knuckle. Note: Torque to 100ft/lbs




Pass Side




Driver Side w/ New Knuckle



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post #105 of 111 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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Got the knuckle all back together and began on the steering, frame plates, and shock mounts.



Don't mind the angle of the draglink in the first picture, the axle is going to be moved forward another inch or so. I had an axle pin relocation plate that moved the axle back due to the steering box interference, going to remove that finally.



Box in place with the axle moved forward


Shock hoops cut off and frame cleaned up. Plenty of clearance between tierod and draglink, I do have some concerns if the leaf will hit the pitman arm but if it does I can always get a flat pitman arm, mocked it up so there was plenty of clearance framewise. Might also need to move my bumpstops forward.




Extending the steering shaft is fairly simple. You just drill out the 4 plastic stops and can slide the shaft out a ways. My final length overall is 19in. You can see the blue mark where the shaft originally was, roughly extended 2in. There is easily another 2in of shaft engagement left, so no worries there.

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post #106 of 111 (permalink) Old 04-11-2016, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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Steering box plate all welded, got my frame plates cut out and began welding them in. Unfortunately day was cut short because I ran out of welding gas.





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post #107 of 111 (permalink) Old 04-18-2016, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
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Got some welding gas, got the driver and pass side all welded up. Next is to start on the shock hoops and redo bumpstops.


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post #108 of 111 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
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Been working on things when I get time, had some fitment issues with the radiator and the front most power steering bolt on the inner frame well. Clearanced the bracket and cut any excess off the bolt. Got the steering all back together. Did flex out the suspension to check clearance with the pitman arm and it is very close but does clear but may get flat pitman arm to just be safe. Got the bump stops installed and the shock hoops all welded in.




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post #109 of 111 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Got the shock hoops and shocks all mounted up. Went wheeling down in Socorro. The shocks make a huge difference, rides so smooth now. The extra gearing is amazing, can basically idle up the trail and have so much more control.




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post #110 of 111 (permalink) Old 05-19-2016, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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Trip Report: Gordys OHV in Socorro, NM March 29 2016

First real shakedown with all the changes. We had a fairly large group for the first two trails then lost a few who were not camping out. Mostly jeeps and one other toy


Started out on Hidden Valley trail and came upon NM 4 Wheelers group at the first big ledge. Showed up just in to time to watch a buggy flop pretty good. Everyone was ok, stuck around till they winched him over and then headed off to the trail Squeeze.




All but two of the three of the jeeps in our group attempted Squeeze. Always a fun trail, one of my favorites down there. My buddy mat with the Toy just got Treps, so beefy and take the trail with you.









We continued on to Bad Hair Day, not many photos here as we pretty much cruised through. The others in our group broke off early and the few of us headed to Doug's Dilemma. The White Jeep in our group had some trouble on the ledges but cant blame him, he was open-open. So we gave him a bit of help. First time I seen anyone open-open attempt Dougs, so I thought he did fairly well.






Just as we got to the very top of Dougs, Kaegans jeep stripped out the nut on his tierod connected to the pitman arm. None of us had a nut that fit, so we first tried some washers and bailing wire through the pin hole and wrapped around. This was essentially the half way mark on the trail as you have to go down a ravine to exit with a few moderate obstacles. Half way down the bailing wire failed, and we ended up sacrificing a allen wrench. Hammered it through the pin hole and bent it to stay in place. Made it back to camp





Overall very impressed with how my 4rnr did, the extra gearing in the tcase is amazing, can idle through most obstacles and really let the tires work. Very happy with the shocks, never knew leafs could ride so smooth. Did find out my bump stops up front are not long enough, was bumping out on the shock body itself. Was not ramping it so it survived. Need to extend the bumps about half inch or so. Might just bolt a hockey puck to the upper bump section as cheap fix, could also get longer rubber bumpstops but that costs more. Also, no leaks so far.

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post #111 of 111 (permalink) Old 08-01-2016, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Tube doors done

Finished up the tube doors. Ended up placing a dimple die section in the middle to provide some coverage/protection. We ended up tig welding the doors and got to try my hands at it also. Spent quite a good amount of time researching latch options, and found some really cool slam latch hinges, eg. 4xinovations, but did not want to spend to much. I opted to go with a pull pin typically used for swing out tire carriers or that nature. I just welded it on the body of the door. Placed a rubber grommet on the inside with a self tapping screw to keep the rattles down.







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