Battery issues... - Page 2 - TTORA Forum
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post #31 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-12-2016, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRoss View Post
Disconnect the battery see if it goes dead? IDK how to check current draw without an ammeter as you've described. This is cheesy but the spark created at the terminal when disconnecting my indicate if you have a small or large draw of power..


The optima on my truck gets drained when j don't use it so I keep it unplugged until I use it
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post #32 of 39 (permalink) Old 06-13-2016, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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yeah, that is definitely an option, but its annoying when you have to reset everything every time you go to drive it. Optima wouldnt hold a charge uplugged anyways. I will never own another optima. Just had the 3rd one go bad in 3 years. Warranty is expired now and I am not paying $250 for a POS yellow top again. Going to give the AGM Diehard a try from sears for half the price of an optima.

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post #33 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-21-2016, 06:09 AM Thread Starter
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So my power woes continue. Sent the scan gauge back for repair, they replaced the computer board and the LCD screen. It is still drawing 100mA with the truck off. So need to email them back again about sending it back a second time.

I have also found that the 'Dome' fuse is also drawing ~100mA. I assumed this fuse was just the dome light. Unfortuneately it is not. It appears to control all the buzzers and dings in addition to the radio. So the short for that could be in anything. Whats the best way to track it down after I have found what fuse the short is in?

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Originally Posted by silvertoy View Post
I'll wave at you as I pass you and watch your CV balls roll down the hill
'99 Taco. 3.4L v6 5spd. 4x4
Sway-A-Way Coilovers
Deaver 3 leaf add pack w/Bilstein 5125s
4.88s and ARBs front and rear
33x12.50R15" Hankook Dynapro
MIOR sliders
All-Pro bumper and skids
Marlin Crawler rear bumper
Smittybuilt 10k Winch

2013 DC Tundra 5.7 Rockwarrior - DD/Tow Rig



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post #34 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-29-2016, 03:13 PM
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Sheesh.. I'm gonna say radio. I know it's a pain but disconnect it and see if the drain goes away... ??? You have to isolate each circuit somehow to figure it out.

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post #35 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-29-2016, 05:32 PM
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pull the fuse ?

re-fresh all your grounds ?

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Originally Posted by Scootn2nature View Post
so fuck off you little 18 yr old lying ass punk.
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post #36 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-25-2016, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRoss View Post
Sheesh.. I'm gonna say radio. I know it's a pain but disconnect it and see if the drain goes away... ??? You have to isolate each circuit somehow to figure it out.
yeah, that doesn't excite me the least bit.

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Originally Posted by TacoDell View Post
pull the fuse ?

re-fresh all your grounds ?
fuses are pulled for now. Isn't there only one main ground that goes to the engine block?

Quote:
Originally Posted by silvertoy View Post
I'll wave at you as I pass you and watch your CV balls roll down the hill
'99 Taco. 3.4L v6 5spd. 4x4
Sway-A-Way Coilovers
Deaver 3 leaf add pack w/Bilstein 5125s
4.88s and ARBs front and rear
33x12.50R15" Hankook Dynapro
MIOR sliders
All-Pro bumper and skids
Marlin Crawler rear bumper
Smittybuilt 10k Winch

2013 DC Tundra 5.7 Rockwarrior - DD/Tow Rig



My Pics
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post #37 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-25-2016, 06:07 PM
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I'm not familiar with all of the grounds
and would need refer to the FSM for further clarification.

It is likely not the same, dependant on installed engine.

My 3.4L engine block is ground to the firewall
and is the primary engine block ground.

Tho' the battery's negative also needs be properly grounded
in order for the body to be utilized as a ground source.

Besides checking for the ground wire's continuity...
The ground surface - tab needs be clean
and be making an sufficient contact (ground).

Faulty wires, corrosion, looseness or even some paint reapplied
can hamper - reduce those grounding capabilities.

Got the FSM for the electronics of your particular vehicle ?

I trickle charge my trucks Optima(s) every other week
because my truck sits idle alot of the time.

But I really don't see much discharge when sitting idle.
So might assume I have little residual discharge occurring
besides maybe the clock.

My reasoning for the trickle charge...
is because I don't drive it often enough
that the alternator has an insufficient amount of time
to charge the battery(s) fully during the short drives
that usually see the AC and radio running.

I use the cheap butt harbor freight trickle chargers.
and they seem to work for me.
However... I have had to repair (re-solder)
the connections to the alligator clips.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scootn2nature View Post
so fuck off you little 18 yr old lying ass punk.
'00 Taco SR5, xtrcab, V6, 5-SP, 4X, and some extras...

Truck...
~n~ ...off road action photo's
Trailer...

Truck build --- Trailer build
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post #38 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-26-2016, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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I will have to find the FSM, thought i had it at one point, but havent used it in so long, idk if I still have it.


I did have mine on a trickle charger while the battery was draining, but since I pulled the fuses that have the shorts in them, it started right up after sitting for about 3 weeks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoDell View Post
I'm not familiar with all of the grounds
and would need refer to the FSM for further clarification.

It is likely not the same, dependant on installed engine.

My 3.4L engine block is ground to the firewall
and is the primary engine block ground.

Tho' the battery's negative also needs be properly grounded
in order for the body to be utilized as a ground source.

Besides checking for the ground wire's continuity...
The ground surface - tab needs be clean
and be making an sufficient contact (ground).

Faulty wires, corrosion, looseness or even some paint reapplied
can hamper - reduce those grounding capabilities.

Got the FSM for the electronics of your particular vehicle ?

I trickle charge my trucks Optima(s) every other week
because my truck sits idle alot of the time.

But I really don't see much discharge when sitting idle.
So might assume I have little residual discharge occurring
besides maybe the clock.

My reasoning for the trickle charge...
is because I don't drive it often enough
that the alternator has an insufficient amount of time
to charge the battery(s) fully during the short drives
that usually see the AC and radio running.

I use the cheap butt harbor freight trickle chargers.
and they seem to work for me.
However... I have had to repair (re-solder)
the connections to the alligator clips.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvertoy View Post
I'll wave at you as I pass you and watch your CV balls roll down the hill
'99 Taco. 3.4L v6 5spd. 4x4
Sway-A-Way Coilovers
Deaver 3 leaf add pack w/Bilstein 5125s
4.88s and ARBs front and rear
33x12.50R15" Hankook Dynapro
MIOR sliders
All-Pro bumper and skids
Marlin Crawler rear bumper
Smittybuilt 10k Winch

2013 DC Tundra 5.7 Rockwarrior - DD/Tow Rig



My Pics
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post #39 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-26-2016, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregers05 View Post
I did have mine on a trickle charger while the battery was draining, but since I pulled the fuses that have the shorts in them, it started right up after sitting for about 3 weeks.
gotcha... so the correction is finding/repairing shorts - fault.

yeah I hate trying to decipher/correct electrical problems.
mostly 'cause I'm not good at it. Lol

but at least you've narrowed that down a little.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scootn2nature View Post
so fuck off you little 18 yr old lying ass punk.
'00 Taco SR5, xtrcab, V6, 5-SP, 4X, and some extras...

Truck...
~n~ ...off road action photo's
Trailer...

Truck build --- Trailer build
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